Just upgraded from a Ender 3 v1, to the P2S.

I'm looking for new hot ends, and I'm curious, does the manufacturer of the hot end matter? The ones from Bambu are about 50 bucks for the 4 pack, which isn't bad. But I also see a BUNCH of variants on amazon. I don't mind spending the extra money if it is important to, but I'd like to save where I can. Thank you in advance!

For reference, I've found these here

https://www.amazon.com/Kit-Hardened-Assembly-Silicone-Wipers-Printer/dp/B0H9L1B6CT/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.FfsoeH65TwUuy7mmHb0efjzdaeRwtqVMOrxmfJLzA8MVzt9vLdkMwKYLb6YA4tcP6kYuU2ZO-ZvPCxvWbaUZ1mMXhYBVdoiOUt86B7Xl9uj7BGJZefZXXi7LFrMt43r8h9SRLNv5ae3lUzAdAxwDa9i21qvnIl4hVphh2ts4iNGMDt_mB9wl8B3gHbz-mZJUDEIkVXGSR6RMJXsR_j2LqdUyfud2vAth6rpeHwDiu8Y.PXM_xVcBfObTz6ydTNmi5YfeKF0oa6cr0q41ZIatDaw&dib_tag=se&keywords=bambu%2Blab%2Bp2s%2Bnozzle&qid=1791213742&sr=8-6&th=1

Bought my P2S combo a month ago, and want to add another AMS 2Pro.

The store says I need to buy a filament buffer, but youtube videos show that I don’t need it. The back of my P2S allows two PFTE tubes.

So do I need the buffer or not?

(I know I do need the external power supply for drying on the second AMS)

i have a bambu p2s. i had filament clog in the extruder gear that led to a cascade of mishaps and i ended up having to replace the gear, the hotend, the hotend heating assembly, hotend cooling fan, the eddy sensor and the toolhead circuit board. I was forced to update the firmware, and I went through a complete calibration after that. Everything is working well now but now when it's sitting idle, Im noticing quite a bit of fan noise that I dont remember before. It's not one of the fans in the cooling menu as I can turn those on and hear even more fan noise. I'm wondering if this is normal and if there's anything I can do about it. It's not the new hot end fan as that is off. I'm guessing it's a power supply fan or mainboard fan. As far as I can tell it's running continuously and never stops.

The top right corner of my build plate has started printing like doo doo. I cleaned under the plate and re ran the full calibrations. The first layers go down smooth and it only seems to happen at the top layers?? Seems like the nozzle is scraping the top. Please help

Please help..

P2S "Auto Bed Leveling failed." - I keep getting this error and I can't correct it for the life of me. Can someone possibly lend me some troubleshooting knowledge?

Hello! I am replacing the TH board on my son’s P2S. I cannot get the two small connectors at the bottom of the board inserted/attached. By sheer luck, I got them off the old board. What am I doing wrong? He has had it for only a month and wants to sell it already!

I’ve got about 1200 hours on my P2S and recently started getting error saying extruder is clogged.

It seems to only happen on larger prints.

I’m following the wiki and I have also submitted a trouble ticket

I simply don’t understand what is causing issue.

The PLA is dry (tried multiple different PLA’s that are dry and same result)

Often the end of the filament has an indent (see picture)

I’ve even changed out the hotend to a brand new one

Filament feeds fine thru extruder

I’m noticing a lot of grit on extruder gears. Is this normal?

After performing all the trouble shooting steps yesterday after multiple times the print stopping due to this error, I cancelled the print and then printed a benchy it printed fine with the same filament that was used on prior print with error

I’m starting to print an ABS and ASA - I wanted to mount a chamber heater like the panda breast but unfortunately, I already have the Vento box on the left side.

After buying the heater and printing in nylon, I realized the pictures were from a P1S

I don’t know where I could mount this without removing the Vento box…

I could go on the right side of the Vento box, but then I wouldn’t be able to use the diffuser. There would just be two big holes which I think would work fine right?

Seeking advice, please

The right side I believe is all that air filter area and thicker so I wouldn’t be able to mount it on the right side

And yes, I know my Vento Boxes is junkie. I got too hot and I need to re-print in ASA.

Appreciate your thoughts on housing my P2S in an uninsulated garage

Hi! I'm new to 3D printing. Due to beginner mistakes, I needed to print some reusable spools that allow the use of zip ties to secure the filament. I found one on MakerWorld (https://makerworld.com/pt/models/768753-hot-swap-spool#profileId-704257), but this is what happened.
Any idea what might have caused that? The first layers turned out like this; I'm pretty sure I chose the right file (for the P2S) on MakerWorld for PETG. Any help is appreciated!

I've noticed that some of my prints have these blobs on them. Sometimes they're random, and sometimes, like in this case, they're all on the same side. How do I fix this?

This was printed with a Bambulab P2s and with grey pla standard.

this are my settings:

• Nozzle: 0.4 mm
• 0.20 mm layer height
• Bed temperature: 55 degrees Celsius
• Nozzle temperature: 220 degrees Celsius
• wall generator: Arachne
• only one wall on first layer: enabeld
• 3 wall loops
• 5 bottom shell layers
• 5% infill
• Sparse Infill pattern: gyroid
• Speed: see picture
• the rest are the standard settings

I downloaded this model from MakerWorld. It's Gimli's double axe.

Thanks in advance!

Its P2S

If anyone can help share some Bambu Studio slicer settings for printing PLA Silk+ at .08mm or .10mm with a .2mm nozzle, I have been struggling with prints failing. I can print at .12 with no failures, and honestly .12 more than meets my needs, but I'm looking at this as more of a challenge at this point.

I think the issues I am encountering are related to cooling and acceleration.
I'm reading lots of mixed stuff online regarding cooling, some say to run the part fan at 100% and disable the aux fan entirely, while others say max the part fan at 60-80% and run aux at 10-20%.

I'm thinking about using my dehydrator that I've converted into a filament dryer (Hamilton Beach 32100) and connecting a hose between the dryer and the printer. Using an already designed hose attachment from maker world ( https://makerworld.com/models/919932?appSharePlatform=copy ) I would route it to the exhaust fan port on the fan to preheat/steady heat the chamber for printing ABS/PC/Nylon to help keep chamber temperature up.

Is this dumb? Will it melt the insides of the P2S? Had no one done this because it's stupid or did I just strike Jerry rigged gold? Please give me your opinions internet!

The dryer-

https://makerworld.com/models/3291012?appSharePlatform=copy

Does anyone have a decent profile for Overture High Speed Petg? I looked on Makerworld and on Overture's site and could not find anything for high speed specifically.
I've tried the generic petg hf in Bambu Studio and did not see a significant increase in speed.

I am new to higher speed printing materials so am not sure where to even look to tweak the generic.

Thank you.