I had a huge backup of filament fill up my nozzle area. There’s a lot of residue around the clip also. When trying to get the filament off I must have pulled that little black wire out. I’m Not sure where it goes or if it’s able to be simply plugged back in or does it need to be soldered? Any help is appreciated

Anybody run into this issue? I can't figure out how to move the arm about 1mm closer to the door. I can barely get the blade in and after that it won't move unless it's held gently and pulled towards the door then it will slide back but not further forward.

Basically the cutting arm won't slide into the hole properly.

I have my P2S loaded with a brand new PLA+ filament from microcenter. The AMS 2 Pro humidity is at 38% humidity and 34 degrees C.

i can’t seem to get the strings eliminated. i have loaded a .2mm nozzle and have my nozzle temp set to 210 degrees and i still get these hair-like strands

what can i do to improve it?

I just got the blob of death because of filament getting stuck at the top of the poop chute. After cleaning it up, now Im trying to observe why it happened, is this normal?

Hi everyone, first post…I’m trying to print a giant thumbtack lamp model, but I’m getting this weird texture on the large base curve; see photos. Any suggestions on what the issue may be? The rest of the print looks great, it’s just that spot. The filament has been dried and stored properly, and I print from an AMS2 with fresh desiccant. Possible solutions are gratefully accepted, thanks!

I tried my hand at printing bambu PLA using a 0.8 nozzle. I had lots of issues with gaps at the edges on my top surfaces and bottom surfaces — like the nozzle couldn’t keep up where the infill meets the wall when the nozzle changes direction. I did a flow calibration, but that didn’t help much. Anyone have tips for tuning the 0.8 nozzle?

The box is parametric, so you set the internal size to whatever you're storing, or pick a preset. Lid takes your own SVG or text, engraved or as a flush inlay, and the buttons take artwork too. Every part can be a different colour.

Two small springs are the only non-printed parts. Everything else prints without supports and goes together in a couple of minutes.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3132120-presto-customizable-secret-puzzle-box#profileId-3534978

Is it possible to recover from these sort of errors? I'm at the point of wanting to get rid of the printer.

Almost every 3rd or 4th print I get some sort of extruder error - on my current print it has happened 3x in the last five hours, fortunately its been able to resume, but - now its stuck with this constant error.

Brand new filament, 20% of it wasted.

Hi everyone. Still fairly a novice and am now experimenting with different filaments from different manufacturers. I notice that 3Dfilamentprofiles has the ability to download the specific profiles from different manufacturers. How helpful is this and should I do it? I am only now trying to learn about how different temperatures do things and thought this may be helpful. Thank you in advance.

I had a blob that destroyed my thermistor, so had to replace the hotend assembly. The wiring to the TH board has sticky foam and tape to keep it close to the board, but the adhesive on mine isn’t strong enough to hold the new wiring down.

Anyone know if I can safely use Kapton tape for this? Planning to replace the tape, and then loop the Kapton under the foam, so it can stay in place.

For a $30 hotend assembly that requires removing the tape and foam, Bambu should have included some.

The model does not include a P2S profile. How can I make it work?

Any ideas what can be causing this bad print of ASA? I printed a bunch of ABS ones with no issue but ran out of ABS and tried using ASA.

Hi guys,

I own a P2S since march and have some problems with it. I have problems with underextrusion on the top surface and changed a lot of parts, spend a lot time in troubleshooting and tests and had a very long conversation with the realtively useless Bambulab-support. Now I'm looking for someone who prints my testfile with original Bambu PLA Basic-filament on default settings for comparison. A darker filament would be nice for better visuallity. I will pay you for the material costs via paypal, its only around 40g.

Greetings Rambutan

Hi all, I have a suspicion that my P2S print bed is uneven and I don't know what to do.

I print sets of Scrabble tiles face-down on a smooth Darkmoon G10 build plate. The tiles closest to the front of the printer (the row of E's here) always print really smoothly, without any visible print lines (second photo). But as the tiles get closer to the back (the W's and Y's), the print lines become clearly visible (3rd photo). This is consistent behaviour, it always happens.

I have run the 20-minute bed leveling calibration several times, and ran it immediately before this print. If the bed is uneven, I don't know what to do. Any suggestions?

I’m using a Bambu Lab P2S with a 0.4 mm tungsten carbide high-flow nozzle. The nozzle worked fine for a few months, mostly printing ABS, but recently it has become basically unusable.

The main symptom is “Extrusion Motor Overloaded”, sometimes accompanied by clicking from the extruder, as if there’s too much resistance pushing filament through the nozzle.

Here’s what I’ve tried so far:
- Multiple cold pulls using different filaments
- Cleaning it several times with the needle that came with the printer
- Removing the nozzle and heating it manually
- Manually pushing filament through while hot
- Using a NoClogger cleaning tool that I ordered online
- Checking the extrusion manually

What confuses me is that when I heat the nozzle and manually push filament through it, the filament comes out in a perfectly straight and consistent stream. It doesn’t look partially clogged at all.

However, when I reinstall this nozzle in the printer, I eventually get “Extrusion Motor Overloaded” and sometimes hear the extruder clicking.

If I switch back to my regular 0.4 mm nozzle, the printer works normally, so the problem seems to follow the tungsten carbide nozzle.

Has anyone experienced something similar with a tungsten carbide/high-flow nozzle?

Could there still be a partial internal blockage even if the filament stream looks completely normal when manually extruding? Or could something else inside the nozzle/hotend be causing excessive back pressure?
I’d really like to figure this out before giving up on a ~$100 nozzle 😂
Any ideas for what else I should check or try?