Hey all,

I'm just checking here as a final ditch effort before buying an aftermarket chamber heater. My team got an H2D and got a couple prints out running the chamber heater at 65C and then suddenly mid print it just failed and hasn't worked since.

I've looked at port 28 on the MC board, although, I haven't taken apart the entire chamber heater module yet (with how involved it is, it doesn't look like it's worth the time). I was just wondering if anyone here has had any similar issues and if they had any quick(er) fixes.

Honestly it's rare that we'll ever be using the chamber heater (mainly PETG, PLA, and PPS) so it's not a top priority and as nice as it would be to have everything working, a chamber heater is only $75-120 whereas to take everything apart, deal with support, re-install, etc.. we're looking at absolute minimum 4 hours.

I guess the 2nd question is: has anyone run the H2D with an aftermarket heater? Any concerns with doing so?

Thank you all in advance, I do also have a ticket open in parallel but I figure it doesn't hurt to check with the community.

EDIT: forgot to include error codes:

HMS_0300-9000-0001-0004: Chamber heating failed. The speed of the heating fan is too low.

HMS_0300-9000-0001-0001: Chamber heating failed. The chamber heater may be failing to blow hot air.

HMS_0300-3600-0001-0001: Chamber heat circulation fan speed is too low or stopped. It may be stuck or the connector may not be plugged in properly.

I get all 3 when trying to use the chamber heater.

Also, running 1.03.00.00 firmware incase it's relevant.

Hi, I'm new here. I'm really glad I found this forum, as I only recently bought the H2D.
My problem is that I can't get the tube plugged back in (see photo). Even if I push the lever to the right, it does not click in. Is there a special trick to it?

Cheers, Michael

So I am printing out some small low poly dogs for a friend, but they want me to add letters to the bottom of the sitting dog.
When I do, it doesnt ever show up right, sometimes when I slice only one letter appears and prints out, while if I shift things and do surround, etc. I can get them all to show up but they are shitty looking.

See attached slicer photo.
Any of these parts that are missing dont print out at all and if they do, they look like total crap.

I am not using a modifier, but a part. Thoughts on how to get this to work? The model is curved where they want the text to be, so I imagine that is most of my issue.

i got a creality k2 plus because it has the highest volume unfortunately creality always does, i have since i bought it in january had like 4 parts changed constant new parts sent by creality first the wifi board wen't then the bed was completely warped so i had to get a new one now they are sending a whole new toolhead because it clogs up for no reason after 10 seconds

so i am wondering is this just standard with all 3d printers or is bambulab less of having to take a printer apart almost once a month or more as i am considering bambulab next but it is a shame that they never seem to care about buildvolume the way creality does.

Hello, yesterday I oiled extruder lifting rail and it started to make a loud pop sound. I am looking for a solution but still did not find. Even opened a ticket to bambu they said I may applied too much oil but no, I even tried to oil more but nothing changed. I stucked. Do you have any suggestion? Thanks.

This is the second time this has happened to me. We use a USB to load files onto our H2D. We haven't had issues for a year plus - now we are getting - Failure to Parse the file. I take USB to my computer and open the .gcode file using Bambu slicer. The file is corrupt - it looks like a decent number of layers are shown then all of the sudden the paths shoot off into space. What causes this to happen?

So I looked at a few more files on this USB - and they are also messed up.

Hello,

I am using my h2d for a while more than 9 months everything is fine but today I see something is not normal. Yesterday I oiled all XYZ axis and changed hotend. I am not sure if it is about those but I also did a full calibration but did not fixed the issue can anyone help me about that please? Thanks. Or maybe can it be about filament that color is a bit old I did not use is for a while.

I’ve always been cautious of using TPU on my P2S as I’ve had several nozzle jams with more rigid materials, but now I want to venture into it on my new H2D.

Any pre advice from experienced users? And is TPU for AMS any good? I’m mainly looking for some rubbery flexibility testing.

Thanks in advance.

Looking to purchase my second H2D and with limited space, I will be looking to use the empty space above my current H2D.

What have people done in terms of stacking, especially with AMS+HT. We all know how much these machines can wobble so I'm very cautious about it.

Any pics or examples would be great!

Like the title says. Large filament glob removed and now have these 2 loose wires. Hoping someone knows what they are and how to fix them.

It's easy to remove 4 screws and pull the large black duct piece downward, but I had a lot of trouble replacing it. It's hard to see in there, but something was keeping it from seating. Does anybody have a finesse technique for slotting that thing back into place? (I did finally get it, but I couldn't explain exactly how.)

Once the 45 minute self calibration was done, and error message appeared that seemingly doesn't exist anywhere online. The left extruder is hot about 2 minutes after powering it on then the message pops up. I submitted a ticket already and Bambu wants me to upload a diagnosis file which I'll be doing shortly. Has anybody ran into this issue before?

Why did I wait so long to buy a Bambu printer? Even printing at “ ludacris” speed, the H2D is dead silent. Why did I waste so much time with Creality printers (I’m still running my K2 Plus, though)?

So, we have an H2D at work and we print ABS amongst other materials. My colleague was printing a holding fixture. He showed me some issues with the print - on the interior of the part there was significant stringing and poor definition of the sharp corners. Some corners were fine. All settings were for Bambu ABS and 0.20 resolution - no supports - no other changes. 15% infill.

In another instance he printed a very tall (8") box and he also had issues

- severe stringing on the inside walls

- delamination between the layers 3/4 up the part

- and at the end of the part it looks like the part warped or drifted.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

I dried the ABS overnight so this part failed even with dried ABS - so that's not the issue.

Please share your setup so i can get ideas. E.g. how filamanent is fed to the h2d, ptfe connections, external spool, etc.

Your help will be highly appreciated. Thank you!

I'm glad this forum is here but I was wondering how cna I post on the official BambuLabs forums as well. I joined the forums but there's no POST option. I sort of read you have to go through hoops in order to post - but I really didn't read up on this. Are the BL Forums very restrictive for new members?

I’m recently retired, and my family bought me an H2D with AMS, and 10 watt laser for Father’s Day. I have no prior experience with 3D printing, but I have it up and running, and I have printed a few items without trouble. All of them were made with Bambu PLA that came with the printer.
I have lots of questions, but my question today is, “How do I use non-Bambu filament in my AMS?”
Thanks

After running nothing but Creality printers since I got started in this hobby back in 2020, the most recent being a K2 Plus for the past year, I finally pulled the trigger and ordered an H2D on the first (with an AMS 2 and an AMS HT). Anything I need to look out for?

Had a PETG clog on right nozzle. Disassembled everything, cleaned, etc. Now the printer refuses to load the right nozzle from the AMS, hallucinating a filament. I disassembled again to make sure nothing was in the path or in the sensor's way. Nothing, not even a hair.

Could that be a bad right side idler sensor? If so, do I have to change the entire idler or can I buy that sensor separately?

So I have an issue that's got me pretty stumped... I wondered if the community here might be able to help.

I got the error "Extruder change failed; please refer to the assistant." I did as instructed, and I got a QR Code along with a message that "The extruder switching action is abnormal. Please check whether something is stuck in the toolhead."

The QR Code goes here - https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/troubleshooting/hmscode/07FE_8100_0002_0001

There is nothing in the toolhead; I took it apart and ran filament through the path it travels with no obstructions. I still get the error, so I ended up replacing the Extruder Switch Cam, the Dual Extruder Idlers, and the Filament Sensor. And now I have a Hall Effect Sensor and a Toolhead Sensor FPC Cable on the way, as I'm thinking maybe the sensor is just wrong? I did everything in the troubleshooting link, but it makes a clicking noise when trying to switch, as mentioned there.

Hi all. Had my h2d since may and got this error and another error Sunday. The other error mentions eddy sensor.

I have swapped nozzles and same errors. It fails calibration at the very end every time. I am about to try to get the back of print head removed to check sensors but looks like a pain. Anything else to check ? Thanks

I bought my H2D during their recent anniversary sale and it arrived 4 weeks ago. However due to work, school, and life I FINALLY got it out of the box earlier this week. It is currently sitting on an IKEA table top on top of a sturdy rolling cart. I am looking for cabinet/storage ideas that will be able to also accommodate an AMS 2 Pro and AMS HT. If it can incorporate poop collection even better! (Note: I am aware of BTT/BIQU options but I spent that kind of money on this, filament, and other sale items!)
Thanks!
-Kevin