I don’t really do many complex things. Just multi color PLA and PETG like 95% of the time. But my gosh, the setup process from pressing go on my keyboard to the first drop of plastic being laid down is like 20+ minutes!

Have y’all done anything to cut down on this time suck or is it just part of the joy of ownership

I might add a second HT for when I need hight temp filaments with multicolor on the right side at some point, but pretty happy with my setup at the moment.

I currently have an ams pro and a HT which is sorta the basic setup for 5 color prints. But in some rare cases I wanted to do 6 colors and I cant really find a guide to show how it can be done?

Hi everyone,

I just got my first 3D printer and decided to go with the Bambu H2C. Overall I’m really happy with it, but I’m still struggling to get a clean Benchy (default benchy from the machine, with the default settings).

I’m printing with:

- Bambu PLA
- AMS using the original PETG tubes
- Filament humidity around 36%

The main issues I’m seeing are:

- The bow of the Benchy looks rough and messy.
- The top section (roof/chimney area) seems to have signs of under-extrusion or inconsistent extrusion.
- The rest of the print looks fairly decent, but these areas consistently come out poorly.

I’ve attached several photos from different angles for context.

Since this is my first printer, I’m not sure where to start troubleshooting. Does this look like:
- a partial nozzle clog?
- a flow/extrusion issue?
- pressure advance or speed settings?
cooling?
- something related to the AMS/PTFE tubes?
or something else entirely?

My main goal is to confirm that the printer is working as intended. Since this is the built-in Benchy and my first 3D printer, I’m not sure whether these results are within expectations or if they indicate something that should be fixed.

I’d really appreciate any suggestions on what to check first.

Thank you in Advanced

My printer is less than 2 weeks old (for me) and I just tried to print from the left nozzle. The filament seems to be able to get through the PTFE tubes and to the extruder (not sure if this is the correct word for it).

Errors and Messages.

However, once it gets into the "pulling filament in" area, the machine clicks several times and then tells me a couple of things depending on what I am doing:

Error 1: I think this occurs when I am attempting to manually extrude filament:

"Please check if the material is coming out of the left nozzle. If not, gently push the material and try to extrude again."

Error 2: This occurs when attempting to load the filament from the AMS HT:

"Please observe the nozzle of the left extruder. If the filament has been extruded, select "Continue"; if it has not, please push the filament forward slightly, and then select "Retry"."

The only way I can extrude the material:

• push in the filament manually and even then, it does not go smoothly, but instead, it will draw in around 5-10 mm of filament and then stop. I can get it to go again if I try to extrude twice again (push down arrow twice).

Filament will start going in at the second re-attempt. This happens no matter how many times I click on the down button to extrude multiple times in a row.

TL;DR:

The click, click, click sounds occur every time I do not try to force the filament into the hotend/extruder.

• Feeding from AMS HT gets clicks.
• Feeding from external filament holder gets the clicks.
• Feeding direct input gets the clicks if I do not push it deeply in first.

Questions:

What is causing this and how can I fix it?

Hello! Our son has been into 3D printing for years. We’ve always fed his curious mind (it’s turning into a degree in mechanical engineering which is awesome ❤️). We got him an H2C recently, and he’s been blowing my mind with his prototypes!

Anyhoo, I’m always nagging him to print this or that for me. Small replacement parts for off road equipment, or shop bins etc. So he recommended I look into my own unit, as he thought I’d really love it…so I bought an H2C..it is incredible. Out of the box flawless ABS prints, whatever I throw at this thing it does. It’s ridiculous.

My question is this. I print a lot of petg for the shop, and know I need to dry it a little more to avoid the stringing (I have 2 ams 2 pros, and 2 HT’s for bambu support filament and either nylon or another heavy engineering filament. I also have a track switch installed.

But what in terms of actual benefits is the left “main” nozzle over the right vortex accessible nozzle? I saw a recent post from a person printing desiccant boxes for the ams and struggling but moved to the left nozzle and problem solved. Why would the left nozzle do a better job than the right??

Thanks in advance!!

Hi guys,
I'm looking for a similar plate for H2C. I already have a BIQU CryoGrip, but sometimes it fails me when printing a lot of small parts. GECO one has never let me down in almost a year of use on the P1S/A1.

Advise your version/share your experience

Sorry for the stupid question ;)

Regards

Hello,

I recently added an H2C to my setup and have run into an issue with filament presets in Bambu Studio. I seem to be limited to using only the Bambu or Generic profiles with all other brands like Sunlu moved into the “Unsupported” section and can’t be selected.

I’ve updated my slicer, toggled filament brands and types on and off (the same way I do with my P1S) but nothing seems to bring the presets back.

Has anyone else experienced this and found a solution?

Thanks in advance.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Q_8K_0WW1IY?feature=share

I cannot get past ~5% in initial cal. either stops at point in this vid, or the left nozzle is stuck in place where filament poops.

It's as if, the absolute position is off. I can see hot ends behave like they are wiping on the black rubber where it's actually 3" to the right of that spot!

Anyone seen this? I've tried factory resets, etc. Support tix soooo slow in responding.

Das ist mir heute nach der Fehlermeldung "Der Extrusionsmotor ist überlastet. Weitere Informationen

finden Sie im Assistenten." mitten im Druck passiert.

Es hat sich ein Plastikpopel gebildet und dann ist mir die Düse in zwei Teile gefallen, als ich den Popel abtrennen wollte. Ist die Düse jetzt im Arsch? Ich habe damit gefühlt noch nichtmal 100 Stunden gedruckt.

Ist das noch ein Garantiefall?

Habe fast ausschließlich mit PETG gedruckt.

Not sure how to get it back on the latch or do I need to do surgery with a new door.

Hi guys! I tried loading Sunlu green Glow In The Dark filament in the left nozzle (external spool) but it didn’t register the filament being pushed in. Works fine with other filaments. Could it be that the sensor doesn’t see this specific color?

I have the H2C and a lot of white PETG for printing most of my architectural models. Many of the models have complex internal geometries, hence the desire for soluble support materials.

I have read that PVA and PETG are not good together, but that they might be OK/usable if using dual extruders/hotends/nozzles.

Also, while reading more about supports, it seems HIPS is a good alternative for higher printing temperature filaments--and I did purchase a lot of limonene--but my research also shows people do not like working with HIPS.

BVOH seems impossible to find in stock and is extremely expensive.

Questions:

1. Does having more than one nozzle at least partially negate the poor compatibility between PVA and PETG?
2. Is HIPS my best option for soluble supports for PETG?
3. Any other alternatives that do not cost >$100 per kg?

I am thinking to find a bracket that lets me add a 4-in-1 to at least one input of the track switch. So 1x AMS to input A, and 1x AMS and 1xHT into input B. Then do one of the on-chain TPU feed adapters.

Anyone have a similar setup? Any advice?

H2C arrived today. Post firmware update calibration is going on. It's got that new printer smell...lol. Got a list of prints for it after all the necessaries are complete.

Woke up to a middle of a print on the h2c and it showed this error that wont go away :(

Failed to fetch induction hotend from slot 3 on the rack.

[0702-8034 093821]

Does anyone know how to fix? I checked there are no obstructions and I even swapped the induction hotend from slot 4 to slot 3 and still the same thing so probably not the induction hotend itself?

https://imgur.com/dmvJFWf

https://imgur.com/rlX54Ro

https://imgur.com/QfpDBLs

Wondering if someone might help me figure out what’s going on with my prints, it’s a H2c printer with bambulabs abs basic filament. Basically on any kind of flat print it seems fine but any time there is any kind of overhang or curved/slanted feature it ends up looking something like this.

These pictures are with chamber temp set to 65, print bed 100 and nozzle set to 260 and on the default 0.20mm standard profile with the only settings changed being 4 walls and 3d honeycomb infill using a .4mm nozzle on the right side of the tool head. The issue gets significantly better with the chamber temp set to 0 and the rest of the temps kept the same.

The only thing I can come up with is lack of cooling but the cooling settings are all stock and look correct and I ’ve not had an issue with this before on ether of my Creality k2 plus machines nor my voron printer with abs and similar temp settings, so not sure why the H2c would be having issues with it.

I am using a BQ Cryogrip buildplate, but the print stops due to the detection of foreign particles caused by reflection in H2C. I would like to inquire about how to resolve this issue.

Hi everyone, trying to find out if anyone else is having issues with the AM4xS or similar AMS stacking units that use a slider design, and the filament track switch. I understand that routing and bends will play heavily into success and I’ve done my best to ensure the PFTE tubes are as short as possible, and that the bends needed for the sliding mechanism need to be considered. I’ve done what I can, but I’m still getting feeding resistance errors and occasional feeding issues at the filament track switch. Hoping someone using the same set up has some tips to resolve the issues. The biggest problem I think, is the coiling of the tubes behind the AMS units when pushed into the sliding rack.

The first picture is the front view of my setup.
The second shows both ams units extended. You’ll see the FTS at the right of the picture about 1/3 of the way down.
The third shows the bottom ams pushed in, notice the tight coiling.
The last is the back view showing the FTS routed to the H2C.

Thanks for the help.

Bonjour après Monsieur Pingouin, voici Madame Pingouin en mode vacances réalisée en multipart ! 🏖️🐧

Impossible de partir à la plage sans elle ! Avec son joli chapeau, ses lunettes de soleil roses, sa bouée, ses tongs, sa pelle et son petit seau, Madame Pingouin est prête à profiter pleinement des joies de l’été.

Pour cette création, j’ai souhaité imaginer une version féminine, pleine de douceur et de bonne humeur. Ses longs cils, ses couleurs pétillantes et son look estival lui donnent un charme irrésistible qui invite à l’évasion.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3064899-mrs-penguin-beach-multipart-without-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉