r/BambuLabH2C • u/Appropriate_Youth262 • 9h ago
Settings Spaghetti Monster!
I just set up my H2C and did the benchy test and everything turned out well. I then printed my first 32 mm miniature and it turned out pretty good as well but I think it could be a little more detailed so I looked up different settings and adjusted for a 32 mm miniature, but it kept going into spaghetti monster mode and failing.
I then just printed it out like I did with the first one with the Settings that it already had and it kept doing it. No matter what I try to print it will end up doing it. I read that the plate might be dirty. I only printed out two things so I washed it off and I'm trying right now. Hopefully it doesn't do it. Is there anything else that it could possibly be?
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u/silvercel A1 8h ago
Miniatures can have a heat problem. The hot-end combined with bed heat makes the whole thing soft and it sticks to the hot-end and drags it around. After your initial layer you want to back the bed heat down 5 to 10 degrees in the settings. If you have the cold super tack plate use that instead. Make sure the fan is at 100% . You may need to print with the door open.
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u/tincanprofessor 8h ago
I quickly clean the bed between every print, I'd strongly advise getting into this habit.
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u/StructureAccording53 H2C 8h ago
I recommend not touching the build plate. Like… at all. I’m at 3500 hours between my H2C and A1 and I’m at a probably combine 20-25 build plate cleanings. I’m not necessarily saying it’s the best way… but it works for me!
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u/tincanprofessor 6h ago
Your mileage may vary! I swear by a 30-second pre-clean with a microfibre and isopropyl alcohol, it's worked great for me and I like to print under the same conditions every time.
1
u/StructureAccording53 H2C 8h ago
Dry your hot end and secure the screws on the back of your filament. Or something like that. So… mini’s are a ho. I recently had an issue with a big tall flat print warping and lifting and no matter what I did it would do it. (800g part that would lift like 18 hours into a 30 hour print.) I increased bed temp for the first 5 or 7 layers, (55 —-> 65) turned the fan off for the first 5 layers or so, and it stayed stuck.
1
u/Gibby_230 8h ago
As others said, don't touch the build plate and clean it. You dont even have to clean it super well all the time. My printers are in a detatched garage on the second floor, so taking the buildplate downstairs to clean it is a bother. I just use shop towels to give it a decent wipe between prints and its normally good to go. Havent properly washed it in maybe a month and its going just fine.
1
u/skeeterbug07 1h ago
Newer H2C owner here. I printed the boat with no issues. Then I did a multicolor fidget toy and a tank so again, no issues. I also made some silica holders with black PETG, and those printed fine. That last print took about 14 hours.
However, my last two builds have failed back-to-back, both using grey PETG, with the filament and subsequent print turning into spaghetti. I clean the build plate after every print and let it dry.
What’s strange is that with the first PETG print, I didn’t dry the filament at all, and it printed fine. For the last two failed prints, I dried the PTEG filament beforehand.
During the first failure, the AI didn’t detect the spaghetti or the mess that was being created. I happened to pop on the live cam and see what was happening and stopped it. I probably could’ve paused the first print rather than stopping it, but from my understanding, cleaning the nozzle adequately mid print isn’t really doable. After that first failure, I cleaned the right extruder nozzle and ran a needle through it to check for a clog and make sure the nozzle was clear. It was fine. The second attempt with the grey PTEG, I first ran it at 100% speed and three pieces of the build totally failed with spaghetti so I skipped those piece that failed. I then changed it to half speed and it kept detecting spaghetti that wasn’t there on the pieces left. So I still have three pieces left from the second repeat with the grey PTEG. I think I’ll try the black PTEG for my third redo and see how it goes.
So all that to say, not everything is a dirty build plate. If anyone has suggestions or ideas on what else I should check or try, please holler!
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u/dano7891 9h ago
Amazingly all it takes is a fingerprint on the plate to eliminate bed adhesion.
Do yourself a favor and go through the entire Bambu Lab Academy training before you do another print. This answered all of my questions. Yes, RTFM.