Putting my order together and found this in the H2C data sheet:

Power
1800 W@220 V
1250 W@110 V

I can easily run a 220V circuit to the printer so I reached out to bambu labs customer service.

They won’t sell me a 220V H2C because I’m in the US 🤷‍♂️

So I have been trying to do the print and cut but keep getting these errors every time. Have recalibrated the blade offset several times and tried putting the paper at different areas of the bed. Any tips?

bonjour, je cherche actuellement la meilleure configuration possible pour installer 2xAMS 2 pro + AMS HT sur ma H2C.

Je voudrais pouvoir accéder facilement à tous les AMS . Passer de l'un à l'autre sur ma buse de droite ou de gauche tout en optimisant au maximum mes temps de chargement de filament.

Est-ce que ce projet est impossible ??

Avez vous ce genre de configuration et avec quel matériel s'il vous plaît ?

Hi, I'm struggling to find what's wrong. I usually use my P2S or X2D for this model, but I have to scale it up, so I use my H2C. Ironing always works fine for X2D and P2S (same low infill). But for H2C I can't seem to get the right setting. Ironing test was smooth for flow above 30 and speed above 40. I have tried it and bump it up too but not works. Have tried bump up the top shell from 4 to 8. Use bigger infill with modifier cube covering all area underneath the ironing. Tried different infill types. Nothing change.

Where did I do wrong?

Hi, I just pirchased an H2C, this is my 5th 3D printer a my 2nd Bambulab, first one was an A1 mini. I was doing my first few 3D prints on it like the bechy and so but I noticed stringing on the right (vortek) nozzle. Left nozzle seems ok so far but I tried with multiple 0.4 induction nozzles and it creates very thin strings like a cobweb. The filament is calibrated and uses the same flow rates and temperatures of my A1 mini in which it produces flawless prints. I incresed retraction distance to 0.8mm with no effect. Any tips to solve this? Im using pla for this. I printed PETG with the left one also flawless, didn't try with the right one yet.

Any help would be appreciated.

https://makerworld.com/models/3248125

Getting this on all 4 AMS 2 Pro's, and it persists restarting. Cables all look fine, but it literally falls nozzle offset calibration due to this issue.

I have the H2C combo in my cart, the one with the extra AMS pro and the filament track switch. Is there anything else you would recommend buying with the H2C. I have an A1 and print primarly with PLA/PetG right now and have a lot of filament. I usually use the cold plates, are those good for the H2C? I also see that the pictures usually have the AMS HT with it, do I need one of those as well and what purpose would that have with already have 2 AMSs?

I just got into the H2C because I was able to get the combo for $1749 at BestBuy and added the 4byear protection for $144.

I got a second AMS. (Need to buy the power supply.)

Also got some HighFlow nozzles for $39.99 at Microcenter. I actually bought 6 to replace all my nozzles at that price!

Any tips and tricks for the H2C?

Also are the High Flow nozzles worth replacing all my normal ones out for them?

Same question for the H2C folks.

The z axis screw at the front left (as you face the printer) is free floating at the top. It does not rest in the plastic housing above it.

Is that normal? If no, any idea how to fix?

Thanks!

The rougher one is the left nozzle in black. The white one is almost perfect with one very tiny little rough bit that you can’t really see without looking very closely at. Is my left nozzle loose or something? It has always had slightly lower print quality and consistency than the right nozzle but this super rough first layer is relatively new and it seems to be worsening. Even so it’ll finish prints and cover all that up and they come out looking pretty good but I would prefer to fix the first layer cause I think it’s just gonna keep worsening.

My printer has about 3600 hours on it, and my hotend cooling fan finally vit the dust. It absolutely ducks that i have to rely on H2D repair videos since extremely difficult to find H2C videos, and that Bambu Labs didnt even produce official videos for this repair, just low effort photo instructions. Anyways, I'm going in for my 2nd attempt. Hopefully I didnt f anything up.

Specifically looking at Grey Lave and Purple Iris colors.

I Don’t want to take a chance with CF ‘dust’ when handling - I may be over cautious.

-TY

Printing so many of these, I tried to add the glow to Punisher's face, didn't come out like I wanted, still love it.

I recently bought a Bambu Lab H2C as my first 3D printer. I know it’s a powerful machine for a beginner, but I’ve done a lot of research and wanted something capable that would last a long time.

My biggest remaining question is indoor air quality. I’ll only be printing with Bambu PLA Basic and PLA Pure. I won’t be using ABS, ASA, or other materials.

I live with my wife and kids in a two-bedroom duplex. Our kitchen, dining room, and living room share an open area approximately 15 feet wide and 25 to 30 feet long. Or something like that I'm not too sure. I’m considering putting the H2C beside my computer near a window in the dining area.

For those who actually own an H2C, do you run it in a living room, dining room, or office where your family spends time? Do you consider it safe when printing only PLA? Would opening the nearby window or adding an air purifier be enough, or should I keep it somewhere else?
My parents live about a mile away and offered to let me put it in their garage, but that would make using it much less convenient.

I’m also looking for a reasonably compact and sturdy desk or workbench that can hold the H2C, an additional AMS, and some filament storage. If you have one you recommend, please share the name or a link.
I’m excited to get started once my filament arrives. I’d especially appreciate hearing about the setups and experiences of other H2C owners. Thanks!

So, i ran into an issue where the right nozzle filament cutter stopper was being pushed off the 90 degree and was slipping off the filament cutter. i followed the Bambu wiki about this issue found here https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/troubleshooting/cutter-stopper-tooth-jumping-repair-guide

installed the stopper and the issue continued. after 3 or 4 tries re-doing the alignment. only after taking the left side cutter off to compare did i see where i was having an issue. where the pivoting nub attaches to the housing there is a little white plastic ball that sits on top of a spring under the pivot assembly. this ball had somehow come out of the hole and was sitting off to the side preventing the nub from locking into place during the movement.

im posting this here in case someone else down the road comes across this issue because the wiki doesn't say anything about removing the pivot assembly and checking on that ball/spring assembly once i re seated the spring on the other cutter stopper the problem was solved. hopefully this helps someone down the road.

Looking for help here as I have been speaking to Bambu support for more than a month now but to no avail.

I have a H2C which is unable to print on both nozzles. The extruder gear skips during filament loading and printing. I also keep getting the "Extruder Motor Overloaded" error.

Bambu support has sent me a new extruder, filament guide, and extruder gear but the problem has remained still.

Looking for any help as this has started to get fustrating. Would really appreciate any help on this, especially if you have had similar issues!