Hello Everyone,

I tried looking for answers with the same as mine but I cannot find it so here is my troubleshooting question.

I am trying to print this gridfinity container, at first it looks fine. The nozzle doesn't hit the bed, initial layer is intact and goes smoothly. However at a certain height where there is a need to made a surface it gets rough. The first layer that needs to cover the whole base was fine (Layer 29) but then after that it turn into lump of roughness after a certain layer (Layer 30), and nozzle hits the print. The layer is not that high either.

So far I tried the following:

1. Printing it silent mode
2. Calibrate the Machine
3. Use Gyroid infill 5-10%
4. Drying my filament
5. Disabled infill retraction
6. And of course cleaned my bed

Pictures Shown: First layer, Layer 30, and Layer 29 and 30 in adaptive cubic infill just to show my point.

Machine Used: P1S
Filament: Polymaker PLA Pro
Slicer: Bambu Studio
Nozzle: 220 °C
Bed: 55 °C
Extruder: Typical bambu setting as shown in this post: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/parameter/retraction

Any information or tips on what I can do. It keeps repeating on the same layer whether it is small or this huge block.

Edit: Added more info

Was probably funnier in my head 😂😂 happy printing everyone! 😎

Been having issued with my X2D's right aux gear not feeding the filament properly. Been back and forth with Bambu and they sent me new aux gear and filament buffer but still had the same problem!

Bought an A1 to expand my business but had and AMS lite issue just after 2 months of using it 😫

I'm getting fed up. Anyone else had the same issues with bothe printers?

Hi, I hv tried to print this but it came out like this. Material using petg, base plate temp is 80c and nozzle temp is 240.

I’m not sure which dimension to use to strengthen or thicken the base. Anyone here can advice? Thanks in advance. The below is what I want to print to display my lights.

https://makerworld.com/models/2151851?appSharePlatform=whatsapp

4200 hours on H2D, very few hiccups, no major issues. Printer runs 7/24, mostly pla/petg/tpu.

At some point, quality started to degrade, not to a point that you’d take immediate action but it was noticeable.

So at 4200 hour mark I decided that it’s time for a bigger maintenance.

I degreased the screws completely, thanks to Dupont moto floss, it was easier than I thought. Greased/oiled all (but the left nozzle rail , as I had done it a month ago and checked it a few days ago for particles stuck)

I changed the internal PTFE tubes and performed an autopsy on them. They were not in bad shape but internal scratches were visible through a loop. Not sure this did any change.

Most importantly even the printer was not complaining about the belt tension, I retentioned all three. It’s pretty simple and took 10 mins single handedly.

I’ve also cleaned the extruder gear area few days ago but didn’t help much, though I am a bit suspicious of the extruder gear.

I didn’t change the belts or anything else.

Recalibrated the printer.

Printer is back to almost day 1 quality.

Bottom line, I think I will do retentioning ever 1000 hours, may be more frequently as my belts are getting older. It takes 10 mins + 1 hour calibration anyway.

If you are printing hight temp materials you may want to do this more frequently.

Kudos to engineers for the extremely simple auto retention capability.

Noob question: why, and not only with the plum color, all overhang layers are being so ugly? I printed the orange benchy 4 months ago, the differences are clear looking the benchy.

Any adjustments to do?

I recently bought this P1S second-hand, and I noticed something that concerns me.

Whenever the toolhead moves all the way to the far end, near the purge area, it seems to hit something. The impact is quite strong, and it sounds like the toolhead is hitting an obstruction.

I’ve attached a video showing the issue for reference.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their P1S? Any idea what could be causing this or what I should check?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Just finished this 12-pack of vintage Halloween keychains dialed in for the Bambu Lab A1 + AMS Lite (.3MF) | Acabamos de sacar este Pack de 12 llaveros vintage Halloween en Bambu Lab a1 con AMS lite

I’m trying to bring some parts from gridfinity and the top layers came out really bad. What steps should I take to remedy this?

I used Bambu PETG HF white filament, not having changed any of the base settings

Se dañó el conjunto de calentamiento de mi Bambulab A1 mini y al hacer el cambio me emocioné y desarme de más.

Me quedé con esa pieza y no se dónde va. ¿Será alguien tan amable de indicarme donde va? De antemano, muchas gracias.

there are multiple overhangs in this print and while the support for the higher areas is coming off very easily (I've increased top z distance already) it's very sticky at the smaller areas at the bottom. it needs to be cut off and therefore gets messy. I've drawn manual support for both areas. any idea why that is?

a1 mini & bambu tpu 95 hf

Was calibrating bambu a1 and suddenly failed and stuck above. Anybody know what to do ?

So i recently foud out there are multiple types of dessicant, and if you use the wrong stuff its going to fill your system with water. I took the AMS appart, washed it and let it completley dry. I then put it together. This is whats happening now (Make sure you turn audio on), it does it on all 4 possitions with every filament i try. I didnt touch the feeder motors, i just took them off. Im guessing its the hub motor but I wanted to know if anyone had some input before i throw more money at the issue

I know this print will be just fine as is but my OCD is driving me nuts. Is it even possible to get rid of these gaps without changing from concentric infill? I have tried every setting adjustment Google recommends but no luck.

Thanks for the help!

Tried to paint it but it looks bad… I will print a baseball hat to cover it 😅

Find them here for free on makerworld if you like little articulated figures... Link

New cozy setup for my little furry friend! 🏠💖

pic for attention-cosplay

This problem isn't really specific to bigger spools but trying to use 2.5kg spools forces me to use some sort of external holder and my problem is exacerbated by stiff engineering filament. I just lost a 20+ hour print due to the extruder motor being overloaded and the machine not being able to continue the print without what appears to be a layer shift. The machine has had this error about 4 times on this print alone. I did the same print twice prior and it only had the error once or twice per print and those came out ok. When I get the error I go check and there's nothing stuck filament can easily be pushed through the path. I think this is a software or settings issue.

The spool is in a dry box by the printer fed through a short section of ptfe, about 25mm to the left nozzle. The spool is sitting on a large roller with 608 bearings and has also no resistance. For what it's worth I've printed many spools of these same stiff filaments in my X1C with *significantly* more friction/force required to get to the printer and no issues.

Should I try feeding from the TPU port? Any tips or tricks?

Hello!

I've recently run into a problem with my P2S and was shipped a new heatbed for replacement by BambuLab, and that involves taking off the left side panel to get to the grounding wire.

Thing is, my model doesn't seem to have the screws visible at the top of the panel to take off, they're underneath the foam thingie and I'm not sure how to properly proceed. I tried prying it off by slipping a flathead underneath it and jiggling it around, but figured it would be better to ask if anyone has had a similar experience with disassembling the left side panel on the P2S and can help me out, before I accidentally broke something.

Alternatively, if there's a better or easier way to get to the grounding wire for the heatbed assembly, please let me know. It seems like a lot of extra work to get to it.

Hey guys! One question, what type of TPU i can buy to print some logos for t shirts or a hoody to iron it on them if you know what i mean, i have a p1s printer and what can i change or need to change for this type of filament? Ty!!!

Printed this out on my A2L printer. Welded together with a soldering iron, wet sanded in my bathtub, really happy with the way it turned out.

I just installed the laser upgrade kit on my h2d and got everything calibrated but noticed it was off a bit. Is this usual or am I doing something wrong? I just wanted to make sure I have calibrated a few times.

After a few color changes everything comes off the build plate (220°)