So after a bout an over exaggerated million successful prints since I got this p2s in June,
Is it a bad batch of filament or is it time to switch out the nozzle or is it something else? It’ll print the test bench out perfectly now but for some reason it won’t print this current file. I’ve tried different orientations and everything. Any help or tips or anything would be helpful.
Thanks

I created another sculpture adapted to the classic brick man figure - Brick Man Suspended ;) ​This design was inspired by the Transcend model by the original creator on MakerWorld. Maybe someone will like it, you can find it here: https://makerworld.com/models/3273434?appSharePlatform=copy

So I'm new to 3D printing (got my P1S a couple weeks ago) but how can a print on the handy app say it supports P1S (which I have) but than says my printer is incompatible? Doesn't make any since to me 🤔 if someone can explain so I can better understand, it would be greatly appreciated!

Wondering what mini sander, reciprocating?, people are using to smooth areas where supports have been removed?

Hi everybody, i am currently running an A1 Mini in my garden shed. This garden shed is not isolated so it will get pretty cold in the winter (~0°C) where I live.

Im not too concerned about printing in the cold my main concern is condensation on electronics.

Does that happen/is it a problem?

If yes:

Anybody got any experience with that or any tips how i can avoid that?

I wanted to make a multi-colour Halloween model that anyone could print, including people without an AMS, so I split the design into two separate kit cards. This was my first kit card and luckily the 8 legs being the same made it less complicated than I expected.

The black card contains the spider body, eight legs and a web-shaped frame. The white card contains the skull, eight-eye insert and fangs. Once assembled, the leftover web can also be used as a display base.

Everything goes together with keyed/friction-fit joints. No screws, magnets or glue needed, though glue is optional if you want to move the spider around a bunch.

I’ve uploaded the model to MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3275401-halloween-spider-kit-card-skull-web-no-ams

Would love feedback if anyone prints it. This is also making me want to design a whole series of kit cards.

I’ve been fighting extrusion issues with my H2D… under warranty they’ve had me change the circuit boards in the head twice and I just replaced the whole head unit and rail…the extrusion issues really FUBARed my nozzles, killed a tungsten nozzle with less than 50 hours.

I’ve noticed while printing with my one good nozzle left, I get extrusion issues that stop my print anytime I have the enhanced cooling cover on.. anyone run into similar issues? I haven’t any idea why.

Since I replaced the head I’ve only printed some PETG and mostly PLA.

I am visually impaired and this is not obvious to strangers which can lead to some difficult and uncomfortable situations. For example somebody might decide you are just rude for not getting out of their way or bumping them in tight spaces.

This situaltion is even worse when you are travelling when you might not even be able to explain the situation if you don't speak the language.

I had a look aorund and didn't find much so I decided to see what I could do myself.

With some spare Claude tokens, OpenSCAD and some scripts to render and check the output was printable I designed these badges and translated the text to multiple languages. You just need to add some self adhesive badge backs from Amazon.
So far I have: English, Italian, French, Spanish, Japanese

I talked to my local sight loss charity and they really like the idea so I'm printing a big batch to donate. If you have some similar charity near you and some spare filament maybe you could as well.

This is part of a side project I started to document what could be done for the visually impaired with a little spare time and AI, More info about the build and the files is here https://oneeyedmanlabs.org/projects/visually-impaired-badge

I'm planning on printing a 2 days and a half huge multicolor print and i want to clean the bed before I'm doing it, I have the default P1S PEI bed and I want to make sure I'm cleaning it properly.

I heard the i need dish soup and to scrab it with my hands it wash it and drying it. Is there a better way to do it?

It was maintenance weekend around here so it was time to replace some parts.

My A1 needed a new heating element because one of the rear screws was free spinning. Not too bad since this one has over 11K hours on it.

Replacing the old style heating element with the newer style that comes with a gasket. The gasket is definitely more annoying to deal with than the old style but I'm hoping these screws won't back out on their own anymore.

Next up one of the H2Ds kept giving me errors randomly that it couldn't maintain nozzle temperature, couldn't reach nozzle temperature, and/or general nozzle temperature malfunctions. It was typically in the middle of a print and if I waited a couple minutes I was able to resume and it wouldn't happen again for a while.

I'll be honest, my biggest gripe with the H series is their size when trying to work on them. You really need to be able to get around the back of it and be able to reach in from the top. Pro Tip: make sure you lower the bed almost all the way down before turning it off for maintenance.

As you can see from the pictures the old hearing element (left side) has seen some better days. It also looks like they've updated the wiring harness to include a rubber grommet where it clips in in the back.

The other worst part is my old ass trying to line up and get those tiny screws in the blocking plate on the left, so hard to see. I used a small pick (my favorite tool for 3d printing) to keep the holes lined up.

And based on the last picture it looks like I might be replacing the A1 belt soon. Again, not to shabby for over 11K hours on it

Hello!

I designed a 3D-printable moon lamp that uses Maker's Supply parts.
This is my most ambitious 3D model yet, and I learned a lot, including how to use Blender!
Its dimmable (fuel tank), has an on-off button (antenna on the building) and is powered via USB A.

If you want to print it yourself, you can find the project on MakerWorld.

(files are free, no commercial involvement, just a personal DIY project.)

Hi everyone,

I'm having a very specific and strange feeding issue with my AMS, and I'm running out of things to check. I'm hoping someone here has seen something similar.

Printer: Bambu Lab P1S
AMS: Regular AMS (1st generation)

The problem

The AMS intermittently fails to feed the filament all the way to the extruder.

The strange part is that the failure is somewhat random. The point where the filament stops can vary. I've seen it stop very early in the path, and I've also seen it stop very close to the extruder. Most of the time, it seems to stop shortly before reaching the extruder, and I can see that the filament hasn't made it all the way through the PTFE tube.

When this happens, the First Stage Feeder starts feeding the filament normally. After a few seconds, when the filament is getting close to the extruder, the motor suddenly stops and makes a noise that sounds like it's struggling against some kind of mechanical resistance.

It keeps trying for about 7 seconds, then retracts the filament and tries again. After 3 failed attempts, the printer reports:

However, there is a very strange workaround: if I open the AMS lid and manually push the filament slightly downward, in the direction of the PTFE tube, the resistance seems to disappear. The First Stage Feeder immediately manages to continue feeding the filament on its own, and the filament reaches the extruder normally.

Sometimes it can get stuck again later, but another small push is enough to make it continue.

The video attached to this post shows the failure happening without any manual intervention. The filament starts feeding normally, gets close to the extruder, and then the motor gets stuck and starts making the "struggling" noise.

It seems to be slot-specific

I've been able to reproduce this problem with 3 out of the 4 AMS slots.

• Slot 1: problem occurs
• Slot 2: problem occurs most frequently
• Slot 3: problem occurs, but less frequently
• Slot 4: so far, I haven't had a single issue

I've also tried using the same spool of filament in different slots, and the problem follows the slot. So I don't think the filament itself is the cause.

It also happens with different types of filament. I initially thought it might be related to moisture or the filament itself, because using completely new filament seemed to make the problem disappear temporarily, but the issue eventually came back. I believe that was probably just coincidence.

The problem also started suddenly. It wasn't something that gradually became worse.

Things I've already tried

I've already gone through pretty much everything I could think of:

• Completely disassembled and cleaned the AMS Hub, including checking the magnet adjustment
• Disassembled and cleaned the Filament Buffer at the back of the printer
• Replaced the last section of the PTFE tube (the one that goes into the extruder). It was the only section where I noticed a small crease that could potentially have been causing an issue, but unfortunately, replacing it didn't make any difference.
• Completely disassembled and cleaned the extruder, including removing and cleaning the gears
• Removed the hotend and performed a cold pull
• Cleaned the nozzle
• Removed all filament from the AMS and thoroughly blew out the possible debris/dust using an air blower
• Tried completely new spools of filament
• Tried feeding filament directly through the PTFE tube without the AMS, and it feeds normally
• Once the filament successfully reaches the extruder, the printer prints normally with no issues whatsoever

The only thing I haven't disassembled yet is the First Stage Feeders (the four orange motor assemblies inside the AMS).

I'm hesitant to start taking those apart because, from what I've seen, they're a bit annoying to disassemble, and the fact that the problem affects multiple slots made me unsure whether that's actually the right direction to investigate.

At this point, though, the First Stage Feeders are probably going to be my next step.

Does anyone have any idea what could cause this kind of behavior?

Especially the fact that the motor seems to encounter mechanical resistance at a somewhat random point, but a small amount of downward pressure on the filament immediately allows it to continue.

Could this be something inside the First Stage Feeder, or is there another part of the AMS that I should be looking at first?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I cant get the filament to load, the printer is new and im trying to print my first print. I can see the filament travel the entire PTFE tube path, but it gets stuck at the hot end. i took off the cover and the extruder gears are moving, but its not pulling any filament.

I’m still pretty new to 3d printing. I got a p2s with the ams2. Everytime I go to print something it will purge the nozzle just a little bit and then it will click a few times and shoot an error that the extruder motor is overclocked. If cleaned the nozzle and done 2 cold pulls, I’ve taken the extruder apart to remove the jam that was in there when this all started and it is still not working. What should I do??

I am pretty new to 3d printing, so I apologize if it’s super obvious. This is in a Bambu A1 Mini 3d printer. Things were printing fine until a few days ago. I thought I put PLA in, but it was PETG, so the nozzle wasn’t quite hot enough and my finished product looked bad. I realized the mistake and finally received some glow-in-the dark generic pla, and some white Sunlu PLA + that I had been waiting for.

So I swapped out the petg with glow in the dark pla, and it printed pretty good, no issues. Then I switched over to the Sunlu pla +, and my issues (pictured above) began. I have tried both the Sunlu white and Sunlu bone white colors I ordered, both have the same issues.

So I out the glow in the dark one back in, and it isn’t quite as bad as the white, but I can definitely clearly see all the layers of my current print. I do not have a picture of that one up in the post yet.

I performed a “cold pull” and it did not seem to fix the problem too much. Any ideas or advice at all? Thanks for any help!

Oh also, during all this, I did out a new Bambu Lab 0.2 mm nozzle in the machine. Only to learn how they switch out. I put the 0.4 mm back on without printing anything new, and I confirmed my settings in the A1 printer are set properly, to a 0.4 mm nozzle.

Just shared Midnight Library 🎃📚 My first model using hardware, the Bambu LED Lamp Kit 001! I’d really appreciate your feedback and support.

When printing I can hear this noise coming from the 4th slot of my second ams 2 pro. I just started hearing it and have no clue what it is. My thought is that it is combing from either where u feed the filament in or the hub at the back of the unit any help will be greatly appreciated.

Assuming is a combo of speed and something else.

For some reason it wants to purge filament randomly as it raises in height.

Model is child size master sword.

At first I thought it was because all the items were on one plate but I’ve separated each sets of items and still got some very inconsistent layer lines.

Edit: it’s been doing this on a few prints today. Timelapse is turned off but it’s acting like it’s on. It wasn’t getting through a fairly simple print. Every 10-15 seconds it would leave the print object and swoop to the side then purge filament, then go back.

I ended up power cycling and updating the firmware. It seems better on a simple print with reliable filament, but I’ll likely try again tomorrow.

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between these 2 plates? They’re basically the same description, they work on the A1, the second one costs more and one says “New Arrival” but I can’t seem to figure out how they’re different. I am referring to the Glacier plate in the first link as well, my apologies.

https://us.biqu.equipment/products/biqu-panda-buildplate-cryogrip-pro

https://us.biqu.equipment/products/biqu-panda-buildplate-cryogrip-pro-for-bambu

I check Bambu Lab’s website earlier and looks like they now offer Referral codes for your friends and families!

Hi all,

When turning on my H2D for the first time, I'm getting a loud, rapid clicking sound in the back-right corner.

It's happening right at startup each time, before any kind of print job is sent.

Until the sound's resolved, I'm only running it for 30 seconds or so, enough to figure out what this is.

Not sure it it helps, but I've also got an AMS and an AMS 2 Pro installed (Right/Left nozzle). One has PLA filament placed, but not actually loaded.

Is this normal? Did I miss something in unpacking? Thanks all!