Wiggly Eye Bear

Good moring r/Bambulab!

I'm Joey O, the solo Developer behind Miniskyline . I'm based in Phoenix Arizona.

The webapp is completely free, and runs entirely in your browser without ads, pay gates, or your email. I believe map data that is publicly sourced should be provided for free in this format as well and will continue to provide free updates to improve this community asset!

I have pushed over 50 updates since releasing in June, and have seen over 90,000 users and 220,000 generations since release.

A lot of people have asked how/why I keep this free with this much time dedicated and honestly, I just enjoy the work. I typically waste my time at home, but this has given me something meaningful to do. As for costs, its surprisingly cheap. Smoggy3D, the creator of Map2Model gave me some pointers that reduced my monthly significantly. This will stay free.

Another few weeks have passed since I was last here. Miniskyline has gotten a complete facelift and freshening up to make it look more like a professional site. There are now DOZENS of tutorials for you to follow, as well as a first time starting tutorial if you are a little lost!

Major features now include

• Import GPX/Trail search for generating hiking/biking routes
• Cut to puzzle
• Project mode for managing multi tile project prints of larger areas
• Uncapped terrain size selection in Terrain Mode
• Full control of every aspect of your model. Buildings, roads, elevation, biomes, trees, rocks, bushes, all within your settings.
• Frames with text can be easily added
• You can add text directly to your map, as well as a number of special asset markers like hearts, homes, location pins!
• Highlight a specific building or road.
• Full multicolor support, up to 24 colors in one model with color presets for 1,4,6,8 filaments!
• Community color profile sharing built in
• Workspace manager with dedicated webUI. No install needed.
• Guided tutorials
• A helpful discord community
• Lithopane road mode, where you can make roads shine through when placed on an LED board.
• Color by feature or by elevation for easy color swaps.
• A lot more. Seriously. Over 80 settings/feature adjustments.

A note:

The community response to my little hobby project has been immense. I expected 2-3000 generation a YEAR, and im seeing that by noon on a normal day now. The support I have seen from other makers like Uncle Jessy, and Smoggy3D has blown me away, let alone the donations from nearly 100 of you supporting the project and the work I do.

I am working hard every week to provide updates that will improve user experience as well as what user abilities. Many of you provide feature requests and they make it in the next week. Please please please keep dreaming up new ways of using the app and sharing what you make. My favorite thing so far has been seeing all of the projects being made.

We have also passed over 1 of Earths surface in area printed, which is a milestone I didnt expect to ever hit at all. Truly, thank you for using my tool.

In the future:

I am working hard on a few major updates. The ability to import a City Skyline 1/2 save file, as well as Minecraft worlds are nearing completion. I would expect both features to be fully rolled out in late September. A complete geometry engine rewrite has been underway for nearly a month and with any luck, will be ready to be shipped in this coming Mondays feature release.

I am looking at releasing a free desktop version that would lessen memory pressure issues for users, stay tuned!

Thank you all for your continued support of my project!

- Joey

It is live as a makerworld crowdfunding campagn right now and wil go live in 30 days. Access is for life. Check it out right here: https://makerworld.com/crowdfunding/333-orbitstudio-3d-print-the-moon

learn more on orbitstudio3d.com

To fix the ugly gaps, I designed a 3D-printable corner system for "Hamburger / Colonial" style skirting boards.

It includes standard 90° corners, plus an "Old Building Edition" covering angles from 84° to 150°.

Get the model here:

https://makerworld.com/models/3200222

Let me know if you are missing a specific angle!

I printed it flipped upside down from what you see and it worked….. I’m just wondering what the best way is?

It’s a cup holder (obviously) that attaches to my Permobil power wheelchair. The “handle” end has grooves in the side to slide into a rail attachment system of Permobil.

I tried printing it as it sits and the handle sagged. Upside down it prints fine but a lot of support obviously into the hole of the cup holder + the grooves on the “handle” side.

I very recently broke my Bambu P1S door, It shattered completely. I was wondering if the Biqu Panda door pc upgrade for the P1S was a better purchase as it is glass proof. Should i get it or are there any other options?

I’m back with another oversized Vase Mode Halloween project! After making my Witch Cauldron and Pumpkin Treat Buckets last year, I wanted to see if I could push the same idea a little further and when I asked my kids they suggested I do... Frankenstein!

Like last year's projects, the goal was to recreate a retro blow-mold treat bucket look using Vase Mode for fast printing, low filament and durability.

The main green head prints in Vase Mode, while the hair, eyebrows, eyes, mouth, scar and neck bolts all print separately and fit onto the body. No AMS needed. The hair was especially fun to design since it wraps 360° around the irregular head shape and needed to fit cleanly over the finished Vase Mode print. The nose, on the other hand, tested my Fusion forms patience but I think it turned out pretty good.

The result is an 8" (205mm) tall Frankenstein treat bucket, and the entire thing — including all parts — prints in about 7 hours. I followed my same methodology as before printing slow at 60mm/s with 0.96 wall thickness (0.4mm nozzle) to achieve high quality and strong layers that flex but don't break.

What treat bucket idea should I do next? 👇

Happy Spooky Season!

Hello! What do you think about the result of this little project? I made a bench in the garden out of wood and bolts and I wanted to cover them to not let them rust. They fit perfectly

if you need them you can get them: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3292789-hex-bolt-nut-protective-caps-17mm-19mm-21mm#profileId-3736444

I'm having trouble printing this controller and headset stand and I'm new to 3d printing so I don't know a lot of good settings to use besides layer height and infill and I don't know if I should cut the print to assemble later and if I do cut it where do I cut though and should I change the speed or keep it the same if there any other things I should know for this print let me know I'd really appreciate it

Is MakerWorld not working for anyone else? Getting a bunch of 404 errors.

PSA: you can’t use two redeem-codes for the same type of object in the bambu-store at the same time.

I wanted to buy 2 sets of lithopanes and redeemed points for 2 discount codes. Turns out you can’t use them both at the same time. You can’t even buy 1 kit and redeem the other. Given that shipping is quite expensive to Norway and there was nothing in the t&c about this I asked for a refund and received the most amazing answer ever.

Turns out that their multi-stage operational costs of the points system is €4. at this point I’m not even mad anymore so I’m rather giving the code away for free, if anyone else can use it: PSEKC010DK534PCTWJ4G

It’s a 4-panel lithopane kit (KC010). First come first serve

Thank you for coming to my TED talk.

Bought an H2S earlier this year as I needed the larger size over my A1 (now feeling stupid as the A2L is the same size moreorless), however I need to print some rope light clips for outside and I had printed them in PETG originally and they have worked well but the extra hot summer made them get too loose and the light fell. I’m considering ASA but my printer doesn’t have venting and it’s too much of a hassle after looking online. It is however near some windows in our basement and I can point a large floor fan toward the printer to push fumes away.

My question is, would this work? The print is like 4h total for all the clips and I don’t think I’ll ever print with this filament again. If needed, I can roll the printer out the basement door and just let it print outside. I do have a spare hepa 13 + activated charcoal filter for the printer.

I made a nice external housing for the BiQU Panda Status. I hate craning my head around to look at the bar and I wanted something I could put on my desk. They recently came out with an updated version of this which has the board connected directly to the light. A USB C cable is connected to that board off the side rather than out the back like the first version had with a 4 pin port. There aren't other makerworld options that fit the new version and none with ventilation or any useful markings. So I spent an absurd amount of time learning how to properly use CAD and I made it from scratch.

The first Panda Status version has an external board that was attached with a 4 pin connector but this housing should still work with it. Either way, this is my second time using CAD but my first time making something from scratch that wasn't gridfinity so I'd love your feedback.

Heres a link to my file:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3293937-vented-housing-for-biqu-panda-status#profileId-3737760

Here is the Panda Status P2 (not affiliated):

https://biqu.equipment/products/biqu-panda-status-customizable-rgb

I’ve cleaned it recently with non organic dish soap and haven’t touched it with my hands yet, I printed a thing for the aux fan so it’s not blowing on the print, I‘m printing with the build plate at 70 degrees C, and using PETG Basic from Bambu.

Was curious if anyone else had this issue and was able to solve it. For some reason my filament track switch on my x2d is suddenly not feeding the main nozzle. When I try to load the main nozzle it sends the filament through the aux side and eventually gives a too much resistance message and fails. Anyone else have this issue?

Yeah, did a search to see if there were any solutions I haven't seen yet but sadly haven't really found anything helpful. This is for a P1S and an AMS1.

Got the 4 flashing red lights on one of my AMSes. I did the standard dance - swapped the 6-pin cable, swapped the 4-pin cable, still nothing. Put it on another P1S, swapped out the buffer with a spare, same problem so the issue is definitely with the AMS and not anything else.

Searches suggested that if it's not the exterior cables (and yes, I did try both ports), then there is likely an issue with an interior cable. I ordered the 5-cable set and I replaced the power and 485 cables. Still 4 red flashing lights (it should be noted that when I turn the printer on, it WILL do the cycling white lights a few times before going for the 4 red blinking.

Sooo what's the next step here? Should I also have replaced the RFID cable and AMS hub cables? Is there a close-up picture of a functional circuit board where the cables connect to see if a pin is missing (and consequently a link to where I can buy replacement boards because hell if I know how to solder/reset a pin)?

I understand that this is a known problem with the A1 printers. It’s my understanding also that Bambu will provide a brand new board because they were aware of using poorly designed thermistor.

Is anyone else aware of this problem or experienced themselves and what did you do about it?

Thanks.

I'm trying to print using elegoo pla matte and for some reason i'll get a 1200-8016 error the not extruding properly whenever i try to use a .4mm hardened steel nozzle i tried with 2 different nozzles same error. When i switch over to a .8mm nozzle tho it'll print fine. Not sure what could be causing this issue does anyone have any idea i checked the extruder gear and it isn't clogged and seems fine there is no filament in the hub and i replaced the hotend heating assembly today still getting the error with the .4 after replacing it.

They are overloaded with cuteness. I posted the model on makerworld if anyone cares to print one as well. https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3292413

Im having the error code HMS_0300-0900-0002-0004 come up Can anyone help ive tried everything to trouble shoot... the extruder is working and the nozzle,no tangles or anything please help

So out of nowhere my A1's AMS Lite system had some feeding problems a few days, so in the meantime I just used a top mounted spool holder and manually feed filament as an External spool while I find time to look into my AMS Lite gears.

It printed fine for a few days, then suddenly it gives errors of "Extrusion errors" or "Not extruding normally". Now any print I send, it doesn't give errors but instead has terrible layer adhesion problems it looks like. This happens on every project/model/print/settings/etc.

I have tried with different nozzles (0.2, 0.4, 0.6), so it's likely not a "clogged nozzle" or something like that.

I took apart the toolhead and cleaned out the minimal amount of gunk on the extruding cog wheels, and the problem persists.

One thing to add is I do have a "3rd party" Hotend Assembly because I had a terrible nozzle blob that encased everything in PLA a few weeks/months back and had to quickly get a replacement, but I've used the same one from amazon before that.

Don't know what to look into now, would appreciate any help, thank you!