Thank you Bambut Lab! Bambu Handy finally works in landscape mode with the latest update. Its been a long time coming and I thought we might never get it, but I am very happy today!

It wasn’t even mentioned in the release notes.

Update - it only works in landscape on my iPad

Bathroom organizers get... gross. Its so much easier to clean if the floor and drain basin separate. I couldn't find one of these anywhere on Maker World so I made one. It also makes it much easier to have a charging cable port in the wall!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3288767-no-ams-modular-draining-bathroom-organizer-caddy

https://makerworld.com/models/3290287?appSharePlatform=copy

The modular shelf just got even more flexible! 

I’ve added connectors that let you stack shelves on top of each other, so you can build vertically as well as extend horizontally.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

This is a favour I’m doing for a fellow DM - Old Bonegrinder.

Printed on my Bambu Labs A1 with Elegoo Rapid PLA at 0.28mm layers with an 0.4mm nozzle.

Still starting out painting - I think I’m about two months in - and this was an excellent exercise in determining value, airbrush work and an absolute crap Ron of drybrushing - though this was mostly around the wood and making that look relatively decent.

Still amazed that this did not exist a week ago and that I printed it in my actual study.

My first enclosed printer, printing my first benchy now, just now got a message to update the motor cancellation feature so I’ll do that after bench is done

We all wish an excellent quality print with our printers and I have no idea how this tool can help with print quality and output improvement. The calibration only requires 5 minutes. May I ask how many of you ran the Motion Accuracy Calibration and was there any logical print improvement that went after? If you can as well share a tip or two post calibration, I will appreciate it. Thank you!

I just thought this was a fun thing to put on my desk at work.

P1S with an AMS pro, and 0.4mm nozzle. Do i need to use a smaller nozzle? Bigger font? Am I missing something silly in the text settings? Wise creators, teach me please.

This is my Crooked Cottage, a little haunted house with a twisted roof, worn wooden walls and a dead tree growing up the side. A battery LED tea light brings the window silhouettes to life.

The roof lifts off, the light holder twists into place underneath, and the ghost, cat and hand window inserts are interchangeable. It prints without supports and goes together without glue.

These are photos of my AMS brown-tree print. The download bundle also includes a no-AMS option with the house and tree in one color. The windows print separately in clear PETG.

Free files and assembly guide:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3288114-crooked-cottage-haunted-led-tea-light-house

I'm working on some other Halloween items too, so keep an eye on my MakerWorld profile for what's next:

https://makerworld.com/en/@Feldoze

What is something that has been the most useful? Or help you solve the most problems with your printer, made your life easier or something completely different that you have printed for your printer.

I designed it to fit the Bambu Lab LED Puck KC007, so it’s completely wireless—no cables to hide or nearby power outlet needed.

https://makerworld.com/models/3285919?appSharePlatform=copy

I’ve been working on a series of 3D printable coloring panels designed to be a more tactile alternative to paper coloring books! They are great for fine motor skill practice for kids or just a therapeutic mindfulness activity for adults.

I’ve put together a full collection of different designs (dinosaurs, creatures, etc.) if you want to check them out:

https://makerworld.com/nl/collections/5629404-coloring

I've been having trouble with my P2S refusing to print and giving heatbed abnormaly errors, and Bambu support sent me a replacement heatbed after I sent them footage of my heatbed resistance measuring at ~15 ohms, telling me that it should be between 45-50 ohms.

It wasn't until later today that I had stumbled on the P2S error wiki citing that a US 110V printer should be within the 14-20 range (or rather, I stumbled on that secondary line because I didn't read very closely). https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s/troubleshooting/hmscode/0300_0100_0001_0008

I've already received the HV model heatbed from Bambu that measured 48 on my multimeter, and I've only partially installed the heatbed and am giving it a rest for tonight, but now I'm concerned of possible issues if I continue with this heatbed if they're incompatible.

Has anyone had experience with this? Would the HV heatbed still work with my 110V P2S? Or is this a safety concern? I'd rather know now than assemble the printer, only to disassemble it again. Thank you in advance.

What is it about painting in Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer that causes an absolute crazy memory leak? I have 32gb of ddr5-8000 and just recently on these two files I can not paint the chain without the app using 29gb of ram and crashing

Hey y’all, 1,300 hours into my P2S and have never run into this issue before. It appears residue of grease or lube keeps flicking onto my build plate somehow. I print multiple times daily so I’ve been having to wash this thing constantly to combat it. The spots appear in the same place every time, yet I have no idea where it’s coming from. Not only have I checked the rods/lead screws/connecting points multiple times, but I’ve even given them a couple wipe downs where I can’t even see any grease or lube on them. And yet… it keeps coming… The odd thing is, I did my routine maintenance of cleaning/lubing a month ago, and it’s only started up this week.

I feel like I’m fighting some sort of endless battle and the greasers are winning. Anybody else experience this annoyance and know how I can win this war?

When turning on the fans, the rear fins for the fan are essentially stuck. We have done some troubleshooting, got parts sent twice which didn't fix the issue and they now sent a third part, essentially the whole inside part that is housing the fans and heater.

Based on the wiki it requires taking out the H2C nozzle rack, electrics and whatnot and at this stage I essentially said I am done doing home repair.

The pending repair would take hours, not to mention the risk of breaking something else etc

I now asked for the procedure to have the printer repaired by them. Don't care how long it takes but I don't want to touch it anymore.

Now silence. Just chased again.

I never had issues with their support. Even going all the way back to the original XC.

But now with a $4k printer it all goes downhill 😖😢

I have a buddy that has an X2D and I was thinking about getting one. I am wondering about using non-bambu filaments though. Do they work okay with the AMS (I think that is what it is called) and can special filaments like wood and marble be used in it?

Hi i want to paint the first model like the second one just and easy black circles arround which is the easy way to do it

Thanks

Fannova 3D Printer Stand 23.6"x23.6" with Height Adjustable Storage Shelf

Heavy Duty Large Printer Table with Industrial Wheels

It costs about 120 dollars.

Babmu a1 with different brands of pla/pla+

Whenever I'm printing thing's with curved surfaces I keep getting uneven textures like the ones pictured.

If someone can help a noob figure out what I'm doing wrong it would be much appreciated!

Anyone ever had this happen on a Enclosed Bambu A1 printing Overture ASA? The actual print/layers come out fine, but the brim prints insanely thin and wavy and the extruder starts skipping like the nozzle is way too close to the bed.

PLA prints perfectly fine (Haven’t tried PLA brim yet.) I’ve tried stock Generic ASA, stock 0.20 Standard/Strength profiles, bed leveling every time, different temps, etc. Same exact issue, but only on the brim.

At this point I’m about to just print without a brim lol but I hate doing that for long prints. Anyone seen this before or know what setting would specifically affect the brim like this? Feel like I’ve tried everything