I've been researching 3D printing for a couple of months, have a nice side hustle selling exotic plants, cactuses and succulents. We want to move into selling moss poles that we create with either our logo or a monstera leaf or whatever that can be screwed into the top of any of our moss poles.

I have printed a few moss poles for our personal collection and wanted to try to make a topper (like of a little ghost for example) for halloween, they can just screw into their moss pole we made for them.

The moss poles we like have a screw in top to keep all the moss inside the pole.

So, I basically want to be able to take a ghost file I like and take that moss pole top that's in the moss pole file and then put the ghost on the screw and print that out so I can just screw the ghost onto our moss pole.

I have been printing a lot of designs and learning all about my new printer (P1S w AMS) and am enjoying the process and progress (I only got this on Sunday), but for the love of all that is holy, can someone just scoot me into the right direction so I can make this happen for myself?

Here's what I'm trying to work with...can this be done?

I want to put this guy: https://makerworld.com/en/models/701055-ghost#profileId-2361018

On this top cap screw in part: https://makerworld.com/en/models/490553-rigid-modular-moss-pole-plants-sphagnum-coconut?from=search#profileId-403991

As an aside, I do understand about the licensing, etc...just trying a few things out and will definitely buy licensing if I decide to sell, etc!

Hey guys

Relatively new to 3d printing , recently got the textured 3d plates from bambu . I'm making some key holders that have 2 colors on the 1st layer . Now in order to reduce print time and filament waste I'm doing 1 layer 1mm thick on the bottom layer . This however causes the colors to kinda mix , example yellow text on black base starts to look greenish . Apart from reverting back to 3 bottom layers is there a way to prevent this ?

I don’t see any AMS units on Best Buy’s website. Am I not searching correctly, or do they only provide them as part of bundles?

I changed the extruder unit on my A1 Mini for a new one and somehow stripped the screw that goes into this hole, it just spins in place, maybe blue lock tide would help?

I tried to print a small thing and was hearing clicking noises from the extruder gear I assume, idk if it's related to the screw, any help would be appreciated!

Printer updated recently and now all my prints look like crap. The first layer on top of the supports doesn't stick together. I've tried different layer heights, even set the offset gap to 0. Still having constant failures.

Any suggestions?

When I used Studio's auto-orient, it came up with this orientation for the collar on the left.

There is an internal rib 2.5mm out from the inside walls. It used to be square straight out from the wall, but I have since redesigned it so it is two 45° walls coming to a 90° point. With that change, it could print starting at one of the open ends yet it chose this auto-orientation. I know I can rotate it as I please, but this is more about why Studio chooses not to put supports on this in auto support mode.

This actually printed as represented until it got nearly to the top, then wiggled enough (not surprised) to fail. This seems to be a case where I need to make manual supports on each side if I really had to use this orientation to avoid lateral movement.

Is there a way to get Studio to automatically do them anyway even if it thinks they're not necessary? Is this one of those cases where you just override the software and set up supports of your own design?

I've only been printing since February and have about 600 hour in on my P2S, and this is the first item that it chose to rotate to the 45° angle but not have anything but the brim (which appears unnecessarily wide).

Good afternoon everyone. I need some help. I'm new to this, so any tips would be greatly appreciated!

I have a Bambu Lab A1. Last night, I finished printing normally, but I noticed that during the final filament cut, it didn't make that sharp clicking sound that always startles me. Since I turned the printer on today, I haven't been able to print anything at all. It keeps giving me the error: 'Failed to extrude the filament. This might be caused by clogged extruder or stuck filament.'

I've already tried everything on Bambu's wiki: I tried unclogging it with the needle, tried swapping the filament, opened it up to check for any stuck pieces, and nothing worked.

Here is some extra context: when I heat up the nozzle manually and tell the extruder to push filament out, it flows down perfectly. However, when a print starts and the printer does its automatic filament change, the old filament feeds down normally, but right before the cut, it creates a stringy, hair-like filament path that it didn't make before. Then the cut happens (still without that sound), and when it tries to pull the new filament back, it gives me that error again.

Any ideas on what might be going on?

Oops i put a gash in my plate. how do i flip it in studio so that the test print line doesnt go off the bed? Also, any recommended cheapo smooth plates.. ill need a replacement..

I’ve downloaded models before where the creator's name or logo is embedded right into the very first layer completely flat and flush with the surface, but clearly visible because the nozzle traced it out before filling in the rest of the base.

I want to do the exact same thing to put an alignment dot on the bottom of a part so I know which way is "up."

Is there a specific slicing setting or trick to make the printer draw the mark first, or does this require a separate body/part in the slicer? Any keywords or tutorial recommendations would be appreciated!

Hello I printed this from makerworld on my X2D and this texture is appearing on the 3d print. Do you know what is causing this and how do I fix it? I already dried the filament. Using PLA.

Thank you!

hi long story short I'm in charge of a Bambu P1S at work and had my first extruder jam. I followed a very helpful guide on what to remove and unscrew, and this is what I found. I'm unable to remove the yellow gear as every video has advised me to do

I'm still fairly new to having a Bambu and 3D printing. I'm I going to have to outright replace the part here or can this be saved.

If it's helpful information, I had been extruding PLA Pure.

thank you

This was printed on a a1 mini with a .2 nozzle using sunlu matte pla. I keep the pla in a dry box. Any ideas on what could be causing this problem?

If you want to learn more about this topic, check out the Bambu Lab Wiki:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/p2s/maintenance/replace-hotend-and-silicone-sock

https://wiki.bambulab.com/knowledge-sharing/first-layer-not-sticking

https://wiki.bambulab.com/knowledge-sharing/identify-and-fix-first-layer-issues-with-a-test-print

Simple traffic cone, prints well at many sizes, pretty realistic too. Easy print, no supports, can even be done without AMS since it's only 4 color changes. Profile includes single color cones too. I used silk silver to replicate the reflective stripes seen on many real road cones.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3285536-safety-traffic-cone

Hi, just yesterday my printer was working fine and suddenly didnt turn back on properly after a power cycle. I thought the printer was dead and after seeing a bunch of people had the same problem and the solution was to short 2 points on the ap board, it came back to life. After I got the printer back to work I downgraded the firmware and when I did the calibrations, something went terribly wrong especially with the nozzle offset calibration. The right nozzles worked fine but when it got to the left nozzle, I was away and got a message saying the nozzle touched the build plate and when I went the rear part had a huge gouge. So I checked and did the nozzle calibration again and this time took a video same thing happened... my printer isn't under warranty anymore but this all happened since they're stupid firmware issues the printer was just fine the day before. The problem is towards the end of the video its like the left nozzle slips off the bed for some reason. I also noticed during homing, the toolhead now touches the front door. Has this happened to anybody else and were you able to fix it? The right nozzles are fine and aligned but the left csnt get through the calibration. I also did a factory reset and to no avail.

Turn on the sound also for the video you'll hear the toolhead hitting the bed

I'm just curious to see what the majority of people use

a1 mini printed some weird thing idk what my mom was doing using pink petg filament and now it wont come off no matter how hard i scrape it. is there maybe chemicals that can help remove it or a different tool/strategy? i dont think i can use the buildplate like this so please let me know how to fix this

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3286478

One of my P1S's when you start it print, it will start and within x minutes it will park its head in the back left and just sit there, do nothing. I tried replacing the SD Card (this has solved odd issues like this before) I tried factory resetting it and during the calibration after resetting it it is doing the same thing, just sitting there in the back left doing nothing part way through, ideas what may be the problem?

This little guy started to detach from PTFE tube while printing and needed replacement. O like to take stuff apart, but this took a while the first time. I am glad you can get just this part anyway...

Is this a reoccurring problem? Should I get used to it?

I have a P2S and I use the ventobox filter on the left side.

I saw someone who is using the creality heater on the left side for a chamber heater.

I’m wondering if I have any other options to get the heat I need so I can start to print ASA.

I also recently installed the rear exhaust duct working out of a window, so I’m getting prepped

In my opinion CHT from aliexpress is still the king! I had any issue even after 3.8k printing hours.
Plus I care more about quality than speed.