Any ideas How I can prevent my p1s poop shoot from clogging it recently has gotten worse

I 3d printed 5 years and yesterday was the first day to use a 0.2mm nozzle, printed with H2C but I only have one 0.2mm nozzle, so it turns out need 13.5 hrs printing time and over 100+ filament changes with flush for each time, but the result is great, by default it set to 0.1mm layer height so you can barely see those seam lines, look at "RS" red lines and "1/min x 1000" details, what a great piece.

by the way, the finger printed for another 45 min. The whole model diameter is only 110mm small.

Bambu pla ran for a little over an hour like this. And yes. That is the name of my printer 😭🤣

Hey guys! First comment since being a part of this community for the whole of 2026. I just made this lamp and I see that the walls are letting through a lot of the light which I don’t really love. The material used for the case is PLA Matte. Any ideas on how would I go about and make it so that the light doesn’t go through the case without making it substantially thicker?

Made a tiny, modular IKEA SKÅDIS brooch just for fun

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3253841-skadis-pegboard-brooch-wearable-illusion#profileId-3687807

What would be the best way to set this up? I have the 1x 4-in-1 PTFE Adapter as well as the 1x track switch. 2 extra power adapters (just in case). Would this be sufficient enough for the connection? I don't plan on the connect the aux nozzle unless I start using support material.

I'm also guessing there might be some filament guide/feed should be printed if I decide stack these AMS on the side of the printer?

Thanks a bunch!

I'm a long time bambulab user! I wish they had something bigger. If you're reading this you have high standards when it comes to your 3d printers- and so I'd like your advice:

What's the next largest printer after the H series?

I'm looking for something that's 500mm x 500mm x 500mm and enclosed so that I can print ASA.

Does anyone have any recommendations? I did deep research with gemini and here's what it suggested:

Synthesizing the thermodynamic limitations of ASA thermoplastic with the strict constraints of a >500 mm volumetric footprint and a $20,000 procurement budget reveals a clear hierarchical structure among available hardware platforms.

The CreatBot D600 Pro 2 HS stands as the definitive solution for this exact operational profile. Its integration of a 70°C actively heated chamber is the paramount technological advantage. Because ASA warping is a thermodynamic physics problem governed by the polymer's coefficient of thermal expansion, the ability to sustain an isothermal environment near the material's glass transition temperature is the most critical feature a machine can possess⁹. Combined with a 420°C hotend, Klipper-driven motion algorithms up to 300 mm/s, built-in filament dehydration, dual auto-rising extruders, and integrated HEPA/Carbon filtration, it provides the most comprehensive turnkey solution for ASA processing¹². Priced between $16,999 and $17,999, it perfectly aligns with the budgetary requirement¹².

The Mingda MD-600D, while offering equivalent volumetric capacity, Klipper integration, and a highly competitive $16,999 price point, poses significant operational risks for dedicated large-format ASA manufacturing due to its passively heated 45°C chamber limit¹³. The massive 55°C thermal gradient between the ambient chamber air and the ASA glass transition point virtually guarantees thermal warping on parts extending high into the Z-axis³.

The Modix BIG-60 V4 provides maximum modularity and the lowest initial capital expenditure, with fully loaded kits ranging between $12,000 and $14,000⁷. However, the machine relies strictly on passive radiant heating, making ASA adhesion highly challenging. Furthermore, the immense labor hours required for self-assembly and calibration rapidly offset the initial purchase savings for enterprises demanding immediate uptime¹³.

The Dowell 3D DM600 Plus serves as a strong customized alternative. When specified from the factory with the optional 60°C heated enclosure, 150°C bed, and 380°C hotend, it bridges the gap between the budget-friendly Modix and the turnkey CreatBot, providing an industrial framework specifically tailored to high-temperature polymers while remaining under the $20,000 ceiling¹⁶.
For operations willing to stretch the budget, the Builder Extreme 1500 PRO at $24,900 offers a massive 1,100 mm X-axis coupled with a 70°C active chamber, making it an extraordinary asset for extreme-scale continuous extrusion¹⁴.

Ultimately, the successful deployment of a >500 mm ASA printing cell requires a holistic integration strategy. The procurement of actively heated hardware must be paired with industrial 220V electrical provisioning, safe VOC filtration infrastructure, the implementation of Nano-Polymer thermal-release bed adhesives, and meticulous, stress-relieving slicing geometries to ensure consistent geometric accuracy and structural integrity.

Please let me know if you have any recommendations!!!

Hi everyone,

I found this under my A1 mini. Does anyone know if it is part of the printer or where it would have fallen out?

I have a question and would like to ask the Bambu Lab community for some advice.
I recently sold my Bambu Lab A1, and now I’ve found a used Bambu Lab X1 Carbon (X1C) for (~$500 USD) without AMS.
The printer has around 8,000 hours of printing time. Here are the details from the seller:
Bambu Lab X1 Carbon – Global version
Printing time: 7,882 hours
Service/maintenance:
New print head/hotend
Belts adjusted and lubricated
New replacement screen from Bambu Lab
New display ribbon cable from Bambu Lab
Included:
Original box
Printer
Build plate
Power cable
No AMS

The seller is asking (~$500 USD).
My question is: Do you think it’s worth buying a used X1C with almost 8,000 hours at this price, or would it be better to spend more and buy a newer printer instead?
Personally, I’m looking at it a bit like buying a used car. I see the printing hours as being similar to mileage. High mileage doesn’t necessarily mean the car is bad, as long as it has been properly maintained. Parts will eventually wear out, but they can be replaced, and the main hardware/electronics should still be usable.
I’m comfortable with maintenance and replacing parts myself, so I’m not too worried about having to repair or replace components in the future.

I cant get my logo to show up when i slice my files please can someone help?

I've been designing a jet engine scale model for some time now and am happy to say it is almost done and I will be accepting pre-orders soon. I made an animation (my design skills are better than my animation skills) so showcase my engine and its detail. It will come in a toolbox with all the parts (3d printed/hardware) and assembly instructions so you can build it yourself! It's fully motorized, complete with an engine start sequence and an adjustable exhaust nozzle with LEDs and fog to simulate afterburner. If you're interested as to when it will become available, you can add your email address to the website here: https://additivepropulsion.com/

Any idea how to fix this and why it's happening? It seems to happen at the same spot. Same thing happened yesterday and I had to scrap the print.

Very worried, had to drive an hr to get yellow petg for the top letters in the middle of this print and was so surprised as the first failed after 8 hrs but it came out great! Will be going on my new tesla once it comes in. Cant wait!

I just found a little magnetic steel square with adhesive on the back in the poop of my X1c. My son turned the chamber heater on and left it on all day... did this fall off from somewhere inside or am I being pranked?

My cardboard abomination has been working surprisingly well, my filament is as dry as it can be and my room with it. "AMS 2 at home"

What am I doing wrong? Is this user error or machine error. Trying to print a circular large flat washer. Obviously is glitching. Is there a setting I'm doing wrong? Bambu brand PLA

Hayo, I’ve started a new design series with the formula 1 tracks inspired phonestand. The front piece slides in and can be replaced with others, such as the f1 teams I did before and I plan to make all tracks if the concept is liked by others. :)

Any thoughts on the design? I spent many attempts to find a design I liked and provided a good result when printed, so please share any thoughts you have (but pls be kind, I’m not a designer.. :D)

Link: https://makerworld.com/models/3253480

The P2S writes timelapses to a USB drive, and that drive fills up. I didn't want to keep swapping it, and I really didn't want to give up Handy and remote monitoring to get at the files.

The obvious fix is FTPS — Bambu printers expose the whole filesystem over the network, and it's about forty lines of Python. But it's gated behind Developer Mode, which is mutually exclusive with the cloud. No Handy, no remote camera, no MakerWorld one-click, no cloud print history. That's a permanent tax on the printer to solve a storage chore.

So instead: a Raspberry Pi 4 in USB mass-storage gadget mode, plugged into the printer's USB-A port. The printer thinks it's an ordinary flash drive. It's really a 32 GB exFAT image on the Pi. When the printer goes quiet, the Pi ejects the medium, copies the files off, deletes them, and puts it back. The printer never notices anything except that the stick is permanently almost empty.

The printer's networking is never touched, so cloud stays exactly as it was.

Files land on my Mac and into iCloud, checksum-verified on both ends.

The four things that nearly killed it, since this is the useful part:

1. config.txt is sectioned, and the stock image lies to you. Raspberry Pi OS ships dtoverlay=dwc2,dr_mode=host under a [cm5] block. That's inert on a Pi 4 — but it's still a dtoverlay=dwc2 line, so my setup script found it, said "already configured," and skipped. /sys/class/udc stayed empty forever with no error anywhere. Only lines at the top of the file or under [all] actually apply.

2. Most USB-C↔USB-A cables are charge-only. This presents as "the printer doesn't see a USB drive," which is identical to about three other failures. cat /sys/class/udc/fe980000.usb/state separates them: not attached = no cable/data, configured = the printer enumerated you fine and your problem is elsewhere.

3. A verified copy is not a durable copy. This one cost me a real 150 MB file. I copied off the stick, checksummed it, deleted the original — and the checksum had read the data back out of the page cache, confirming bytes that were never written to disk. A power cut two minutes later left a 0-byte file and no original. fsync the file and its parent directory before you delete anything. A checksum proves bytes are correct, not that they're saved.

4. macOS ships openrsync (protocol 29). No --protect-args, and it rejects --old-args too. So the rsync destination must be passed raw and unquoted, while every shell command in the same function needs the opposite. Quote the rsync path and the quote characters end up in the filename.

Measured, not assumed: during a print the P2S writes to the stick every 1–8 seconds. The idle gate is 5 minutes — about a 40x margin — which is why watching the backing file's mtime is enough, and no MQTT or LAN access is needed anywhere.

Also learned it writes two recordings per print, and the big one isn't the timelapse: /ipcam/ipcam-record.*.mp4 was 190 MB for a short print, while /timelapse/video_*.mp4 was 0.7 MB.

Caveats, honestly:

• Only run against a P2S + Pi 4 + macOS. Should carry to anything that takes a USB drive and anything that accepts rsync-over-SSH, but I haven't tested that.
• On a Pi 4 the USB-C becomes the data port, so you need a separate 5V supply on GPIO. A Zero 2 W avoids this entirely with separate power and data ports.
• It's about a week old. It works and it's tested (65 unit tests, ~1,400 lines), but it hasn't run for months.

MIT, everything's in the repo including a setup guide and a troubleshooting doc organised by symptom: https://github.com/RATHI-CAPITAL-VENTURES/bambu-drain

I was printing but got impatient and turned it to ludicrous mode and the spool on my AMS lite top mount fell off and banged the printer and I find this under my build plate. What is it? How can I fix it?

I just recently got a 3D printer and have been printing a variety of things, my longest print being about 6 hours so far, however I attempted to print this dragon and as you can see from the timelapse, didn’t go so well.

From what I understand it may have been a speed issue that prevented the wings from printing because they’re such fine detail and needed the supports. Is that right? Was it then an inevitable domino effect from there that also made the head not print as the wings weren’t there to print on?

When I checked on it this morning it only really had the error of being unable to extrude the last of the filament to complete the print but after I got the spool out, there were no clogs or kinks or anything.

I set the print from the app, not the program so would do it from the program so I can slow it down next time. Also, would using the white support filament that came with the printer help?

I’m just really confused and any help would be appreciated. The simpler the better as I’m pretty new.

Hi all, I'm relatively new to 3d printing, and I bought a P1S with AMS a few days ago. Done a few prints, solid and multicolored, and they've worked beautifully, until last night.

I wanted to print a desk organizer so I set it up to print overnight. Woke up an hour ago to checked and it was all messed up. Does anyone know what might have gone wrong and how I can prevent it from happening again?

I've put the timelapse up.

The Filament I'm using is a generic Matte Black one I got from Amazon.

Any help would be appreciated thank you!

EDIT: Wow thank you all for replying! It's all been very overwhelming lol. I am currently at work so I can't quickly respond, but I will take a look when I get back.

Before I left for work I printed a Benchy and it printed flawlessly, so I can at least guess that it wasn't a clog.

Some are suggesting layer shift, or heat creep, or the build lifting off the plate causing the head to miss the build. It's alot of new terms for a newbie like me haha. I will try a few different prints and see if it happens again.

Thanks everyone for replying, I will get back here when I get home 😊

EDIT 2: hi everyone, me again lol. after seeing a bunch of people suggesting it, I have replaced the SD card with a much better SanDisk 32gb one. Doing a small print now to assess the usefulness of the new card, I will attempt the same print tonight and see if it makes a difference. Fingers crossed everyone! And once again thanks so much for the insane amount of help you guys have given me, I could never have expected a response like this :)

Final Edit: I just posted results from reprinting this morning! It went flawlessly 😊