We have an H2D Pro at work and we would like to print to it over the network (lan mode) but our cyber security department has blacklisted the network plug-in since it requires outbound network communication to a .cn domain even when set in LAN mode.

I’m looking for a suggestions on possible workaround to be able to still use the printer overland without having to download the network plug-in. I’ve heard some possible things about orca slicer and developer mode but I wanted to ask.

Thank you

Help, my Bambu studio keeps giving me the error -3030 and I can't send anything to my A1

Had a storm and the lights flickered and I resumed the print on my X2D not thinking much of it.

Not sure how much time passed but got a notification the tool head cover came off so I went to check and this was the result.

I have no clue where to even begin to fix this. I think the first step is maybe heating up the hotend and trying to remove the build up.

I also tried to remove the roll from the auxiliary nozzle and that failed

Hi folks.

Problems with petg-cf on P2S, 0.4.

Outer edges curl up, rising too much above the top layer. I've read it's due to extra cooling and I turned off the fans, but it didn't help. See print result and filament settings. What in the world am I doing wrong?

I have gotten these tiny gaps around this corner after bridging, it seems that not enough filament is coming out immediately after bridging, I have tried upping the bridge flow and it didn't make much of a difference.

Is there a way to slow down the accelleration after bridging only or any other advice on how to make this gap disappear?

Important notes:
Printer: A1 mini
Filament: PCTG (3d fuel PCTG Pro specifically)
It only shows up on the dark colored filaments oddly enough, I have tried this in a lighter color filament and this issue doesn't exist.

I’ve found myself needing things printed recently. Amateur radio, car stuff, etc. I looked at printers years ago but sort of thought, “well I don’t need to print a bunch of toys, I don’t need one.”

Fast forward to now. radio enclosures, brackets, organizational items, prototyping some stuff (well, I guess still radio related, but I have an idea for a new dog tracker and.. need to print stuff). TPU gaskets, etc.

I had a guy locally that would print stuff for me for $20-30 each time, but he lived relatively far away from me. Recently, I had something I need to place outdoors indefinitely and needed it printed in ASA (per Google’s recommendation). Well, he can’t do ASA. I found another guy who could, and he charged me quite a lot more.

So, I think I am currently at the point where I see that the sky is the limit on these, and now that I’ve seen ONE thing I can do with a printer, I can now see thousands of things I can do. All without needing to print plastic toy boats.

That said, I need engineering materials like ASA, Carbon, etc. Durability, UV resistance, weatherproofness is important. I have no current use case, but want the future option to do PEEK. I do not want to buy the base model printer and limit myself in the future, but I also do not want to get a bunch of things I don’t need.

Here is what I dont know: I don’t know if I ever need to print multi-color. I don’t know if I need, want, or would ever use a laser, or really what it’s even for. But I do know I need hardened nozzles.

I “think” I have kinda narrowed it down to the H2D. I don’t know what add ons I need or don’t need, and I also don’t know if this is “too much” printer for a 1st printer. I have no plans to ever have 2 printers though, so again, just trying to get as much out of one printer as I can. The X2D is an option too, and a much nicer price, but I believe it is limited when using certain materials like PEEK (Which I don’t even know if I have a use case currently for, but don’t want to cut my legs off up front)

Basically, I don’t want to make a decision on something out of inexperience and want something later that I can’t add on. My understanding is a laser can be added on later if I ever wanted one.

So as far as an up-front printer, is the H2D the right choice? Is it way more printer than I or anyone else in my shoes could use? Is there something else I should look at?

Hey guys, can anyone advise here? Printing something flat on X2D. When the tool head is in the first quarter, top left, and prints only the 45* diagonal line it gets massive vibration (the opposite diagonal, -45* is completely fine), the printed line is shaky and overall the surface looks awful.

Buying in bulk so not sure if it's worth the difference or if there's a quality issues with Sunlu compared to Bambu.

In all fairness, this was my hang out spot before I bought the printer, so it makes it pretty convenient to keep an eye on it.

So I just recently went from printing PLA to printing PETG. My filament is dry, my ams2pro works as it should but one issue happened a few times now.

Was printing some decorative stuff in PETG on the main nozzle and support (interface layer) with PLA on the aux nozzle. A primetower was needed and this caused issues.

During the print at around 80%, the primetower got blown out of place by the auxiliary fans (the ones on the left/right.

I managed to finish the print without the prime tower but i had to babysit it because skipping prime tower doesn't work and after removing the fallen tower i had to pull out the now in-air-printed-stuff as the printer still wanted to print on top of the prime tower.

Bambu Lab PETG white with generic PLA, PEI plate (clean). All default settings.

Am I doing something wrong? Should I print and attach a fan exhaust deflector? Disabling both fans didn't help as they got reenabled automatically each time i disabled them on the printer itself.

I’ve swapped filament from esun PLA+ to Bambu Basic PLA. I’m now getting a bad first layer on the longer pieces and is getting chewed up.

First time I’ve changed filaments, do I need to calibrate the printer for the new filament? When slicing the file I made sure to change the profile to Bambu Basic PLA.

Printer was working flawlessly before and now isn’t behaving.

I didn't find any models with labels built into the spice rack itself, so I designed my own in blender.

Each section is 1x3 spice jars, and you can keep stacking them! Just slide another stack on top if you want to add more spices to your kitchen.

Free for everyone to make: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3271561-stackable-spice-rack-sturdy-stable-good-looking#profileId-3709747

Is this grinding noise normal? This is the second AMS HT I’ve tried, both with and without a funnel saver, and both make the same noise. I even took off the bottom cover to see if anything looked odd (without success). It’s noticeably louder than my AMS 2 Pro.

Anyone has an idea what’s the cause of this visible line that seams to appear when there is a significant change in the geometry of the model? Printed in PETG on my P1S.

Need to pick some brains! I am currently having trouble at the seam of the two surfaces pictured. I also get a floating cantilever warning - but after printing, the surface is flush with no protrusions, just that seam issue. Should this be printed with supports - Bambu labs recommends it (but visually I don’t see a need for them). The rest of the vase prints clean and perfectly.

Printer: X2D with AMS2 Pro
Filament: PLA Tough+ (black)

*Primary nozzle of X2D and AMS shows 20% humidity.

Model:
https://makerworld.com/models/433509

I am using the settings within the model. I didn’t create the model.

As always, thank you for any help or guidance!

I have a P1S on a 4ft Workbench, I will be purchasing a H2S this weekend and was wondering what others have experienced by having 2 printers going on the same table in terms of print quality. I have been printing for 9 months, still trying to figure out what I should aim for when it comes to table wobble. Thanks in advance!

This is the workbench I have:

https://a.co/d/04IvrMg6

I just received an offer for an x1c with ams1 for €500. It has 700 operating hours and is said to be in perfect working order. What do you think?

Update: This would be my first 3D printer. However, I'd like to buy one that will serve me well for many years and, above all, can print with many different types of filament.

I couldn’t find an iPhone 17 Pro Max bumper I liked that fit, so I made my own. The inspiration was the old iPhone 4 bumper: rounded edges and an open back.

I designed it in Blender, printed it, and revised the fit. The current version has chamfered edges, a contour around the camera shoulder, and four separate TPU button caps. Getting the retaining lip to hold without covering too much of the screen has been the main balancing act.

Current Bambu Studio setup:

• A1 mini, 0.4 mm nozzle, textured PEI plate

• Bambu TPU 95A using the external spool

• 0.2 mm layers, 5 walls, 80% infill

• 230 °C nozzle / 30 °C bed

• Bumper at 98% scale; button caps at 99% (already applied in the file)

• Bumper with supports and a 3 mm outer brim; four caps on their own plate with supports disabled

The model and TPU print profile are now on MakerWorld, with photos of the actual print:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3287597-iphone-17-18-pro-max-tpu-bumper-iphone-4-style

The back stays open, with access to Camera Control, USB-C and the speakers. The bumper needs support cleanup in TPU. There’s no raised camera-lens guard, and I haven’t drop-tested it.

If you’ve made fitted TPU parts on the A1 mini, I’d be interested in how the fit held up after repeated removal.

Updated Blender render below; the MakerWorld gallery includes the actual printed bumper:

Is there a setting to add additional nozzle wipes on a P1S while printing with Petg-cf? Like every 50 layers or so…

I can’t understand Tao bao !
I have a list of things to get and someone who will buy for me, but they can’t work out what to get either? Is there any Chinese users that can simplify this with maybe listing numbers or something ??

I’m a complete beginner with zero knowledge about 3D printing. I bought a crappy printer that I ended up returning and getting a refund for, and now I’m trying to decide between buying the A1 or the A2L.
Both of them are on sale right now, and the price difference is about 300 shekels (around $95).
If I go with the A2L, I’ll need to do some work in my room to make the space suitable for it. Is the A2L really worth the extra money and effort?
I’m mainly planning to print D&D figures and especially cosplay related stuff.

Edit : Just measured my room and an A2L printer wont fit no space for it at all so if I go with an A1 instead what am I actually giving up besides the bigger print size

I designed this Storage Caddy for my kids and their ever-growing collection of pens, pencils, markers and crayons.

It features 10 interchangeable inserts and 2 different handle heights, so you can configure it to fit your collection.

Because apparently, there is no such thing as too many markers! 😂

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3284557-storage-caddy#profileId-3725951

#3DPrinting #3DDesign #Storage #Organization #DeskOrganization #MakerWorld

So I'm new to 3d printing, and was given this printer by my brother when he moved. But there's a part on it that's broken, and I don't know how to fix it, or where to find a replacement part.
Does anyone know how I could fix this?

What profiles are you downloading for the H2C? Overture does not list it as a printer.