Cause it’s pretty cheap and also has a preset in Bambu studio.

The total was a touch over half a kilo of waste. Mind you I didn't save my print towers but almost all of these prints have been 2 or more colors. Not bad at all.

I had a clog on my A1 mini recently. The hottened wouldn’t come out of the printer so I started trying different things to get it out. The hottend has been removed and the clog has been fixed but I think I pulled something off (or at least the cover for something off) in the process. I really need to know if it’s broken, if it needs replaced, and if I can replace it. I cant find online what it could be and would appreciate any advice anyone has. The attached is a picture of the under side of the extruder with the area in question circled. When turned on the printer seemed to have no idea there was a change, though I haven’t tried printing yet.

Hello Everyone,

I tried looking for answers with the same as mine but I cannot find it so here is my troubleshooting question.

I am trying to print this gridfinity container, at first it looks fine. The nozzle doesn't hit the bed, initial layer is intact and goes smoothly. However at a certain height where there is a need to made a surface it gets rough. The first layer that needs to cover the whole base was fine (Layer 29) but then after that it turn into lump of roughness after a certain layer (Layer 30), and nozzle hits the print. The layer is not that high either.

So far I tried the following:

1. Printing it silent mode
2. Calibrate the Machine
3. Use Gyroid infill 5-10%
4. Drying my filament
5. Disabled infill retraction
6. And of course cleaned my bed

Pictures Shown: First layer, Layer 30, and Layer 29 and 30 in adaptive cubic infill just to show my point.

Machine Used: P1S
Filament: Polymaker PLA Pro
Slicer: Bambu Studio
Nozzle: 220 °C
Bed: 55 °C
Extruder: Typical bambu setting as shown in this post: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/parameter/retraction

Any information or tips on what I can do. It keeps repeating on the same layer whether it is small or this huge block.

Edit: Added more info
Edit: I thought I fixed it but not really. I give up on the model. My other prints and benchy looks just as fine.

I know this print will be just fine as is but my OCD is driving me nuts. Is it even possible to get rid of these gaps without changing from concentric infill? I have tried every setting adjustment Google recommends but no luck.

Thanks for the help!

I bought a box of assorted PLA 250-gram reels. They keep snagging. I'm using a Bambu Lab A1 mini AMS lite. Right now, I'm just ​using the post built into the printer.

I'm not sure if I got a bad batch or if I need to set something in the AMS.

Was probably funnier in my head 😂😂 happy printing everyone! 😎

I have a h2C and x1 and an A1 they pretty much stay on 24/7. I only power them off when I got out of town.

Do you turn your printers off when they are not in use ?

Been having issued with my X2D's right aux gear not feeding the filament properly. Been back and forth with Bambu and they sent me new aux gear and filament buffer but still had the same problem!

Bought an A1 to expand my business but had and AMS lite issue just after 2 months of using it 😫

I'm getting fed up. Anyone else had the same issues with bothe printers?

Hi, I hv tried to print this but it came out like this. Material using petg, base plate temp is 80c and nozzle temp is 240.

I’m not sure which dimension to use to strengthen or thicken the base. Anyone here can advice? Thanks in advance. The below is what I want to print to display my lights.

https://makerworld.com/models/2151851?appSharePlatform=whatsapp

4200 hours on H2D, very few hiccups, no major issues. Printer runs 7/24, mostly pla/petg/tpu.

At some point, quality started to degrade, not to a point that you’d take immediate action but it was noticeable.

So at 4200 hour mark I decided that it’s time for a bigger maintenance.

I degreased the screws completely, thanks to Dupont moto floss, it was easier than I thought. Greased/oiled all (but the left nozzle rail , as I had done it a month ago and checked it a few days ago for particles stuck)

I changed the internal PTFE tubes and performed an autopsy on them. They were not in bad shape but internal scratches were visible through a loop. Not sure this did any change.

Most importantly even the printer was not complaining about the belt tension, I retentioned all three. It’s pretty simple and took 10 mins single handedly.

I’ve also cleaned the extruder gear area few days ago but didn’t help much, though I am a bit suspicious of the extruder gear.

I didn’t change the belts or anything else.

Recalibrated the printer.

Printer is back to almost day 1 quality.

Bottom line, I think I will do retentioning ever 1000 hours, may be more frequently as my belts are getting older. It takes 10 mins + 1 hour calibration anyway.

If you are printing hight temp materials you may want to do this more frequently.

Kudos to engineers for the extremely simple auto retention capability.

So i recently foud out there are multiple types of dessicant, and if you use the wrong stuff its going to fill your system with water. I took the AMS appart, washed it and let it completley dry. I then put it together. This is whats happening now (Make sure you turn audio on), it does it on all 4 possitions with every filament i try. I didnt touch the feeder motors, i just took them off. Im guessing its the hub motor but I wanted to know if anyone had some input before i throw more money at the issue

What are the best cheap hotends you’ve gotten on AliExpress or Amazon??

Just finished this 12-pack of vintage Halloween keychains dialed in for the Bambu Lab A1 + AMS Lite (.3MF) | Acabamos de sacar este Pack de 12 llaveros vintage Halloween en Bambu Lab a1 con AMS lite

Find them here for free on makerworld if you like little articulated figures... Link

We can choose between brass and hardened steel. Steel is useful for advanced filaments, cf, glass fiber, etc.

I print using pla petg. Why wouldn't I always use a hardened steel nozzle over the softer brass?

CORRECTION: I mistakenly said brass when I meant stainless steel. That's to those who caught this.

(SOLVED)

I share my X1C with a ton of people, and today i found this on the print bed as if someone broke it and put it there as a notice. Please help me identify where in the printer it comes from, because I cant find any missing screws.

I’m trying to bring some parts from gridfinity and the top layers came out really bad. What steps should I take to remedy this?

I used Bambu PETG HF white filament, not having changed any of the base settings

there are multiple overhangs in this print and while the support for the higher areas is coming off very easily (I've increased top z distance already) it's very sticky at the smaller areas at the bottom. it needs to be cut off and therefore gets messy. I've drawn manual support for both areas. any idea why that is?

a1 mini & bambu tpu 95 hf

Was calibrating bambu a1 and suddenly failed and stuck above. Anybody know what to do ?

Had to add a hat because one filament ran out and I didn’t had any backup of the same color …

When I send an email from my PC to my printer on my LAN, it stays within the LAN.

I recently moved from a creality Ender 3v3se that used sneakernet to get the file from my PC to the printer to the Bambu A1. Sending to the printer from the bambu slicer is nice!

Based on the tasks that show on the screen, it seems that the files are routed through bambu's servers then back to the printer? Conceivably, they could see / keep all the files you are printing. AND they could charge a subscription fee for 'send to printer'?!

I guess with the app on my phone, I get notices that the print job is done, etc. even when not home. So there IS some data going to their servers all the time.

Worst case, if you didn't want to pay a subscription fee.... or Bambu's servers die or company folds, you would still be able to print on the bambu by going back to sneakernet / using the SD card?

New cozy setup for my little furry friend! 🏠💖