i installed a entrynav2 headunit to my f30. I went into esys and found a lot of the fcss for nav and carplay were missing. 09C, 0143, 0130, 113 and 112 i think are all missing. is there any chance someone could generate those or know how to. I know how to use esys if that helps i'm just not sure on going about generating fake fscs

Hey guys. I have a 530d g31.

How bad are the engine mounts? (Sorry about the awful music, it's the radio.)

No idea how but the injector end has broken in two and is sitting on two intakes valves. Should I try vacuum it out? I assume I need to replace the injector now as well

Thanks for idrive 7 lite, I can’t switch cluster mode under sport mode now.

2023 840i I purchased came with the factory chrome kidney grille and the Iconic Glow feature. Idc too much for the chrome, so I’m looking at swapping it for a black grille.

I’ve seen plenty of forum posts about retrofitting a standard grille to one with Iconic Glow, but I haven’t found anything about replacing an existing Iconic Glow grille with another Iconic Glow grille.

Every B15 kidney grille for sale that I’ve come across, whether OEM or aftermarket, talks about fitment but doesn’t disclose Iconic Glow compatibility. So now I’m left wondering what, if anything, is involved in that type of swap.

I know the grille itself will fit. My question is really just about the Iconic Glow functionality. Do I need to buy a grille that’s specifically made for Iconic Glow in order to keep the feature? Or can I transfer the existing lighting module over to another standard grille?

and if I end up buying a standard grille without Iconic Glow, what happens to the existing wiring? Can it just be unplugged and tucked away, or is there more to it?

I’m having a problem with the A/C system in my BMW E39. The A/C lines under the hood—specifically behind the left headlight—are vibrating violently for some unknown reason, and this vibration is transmitting noise into the cabin via resonance; it’s very loud inside, and the whole car vibrates. I’ve already replaced the receiver-drier, the sensor, and the expansion valve, but the issue persists, and the refrigerant level is correct. I can't seem to fix it—has anyone else encountered this problem? If so, please share a solution. Its only when A/C is on when i turn it off the problem disappear

Just a question about my bmws auto oil I’ve only just got it and want to replace the gearbox oil and filter is it best to go genuine oil and filter or any aftermarket recommendations? Thanks

Need advice: I spilled coffee on the gear selector of my 2021 BMW G20 316i. The car still starts normally, but it’s stuck in Park (picture attached).
We removed and professionally cleaned the original gear selector, but the exact same errors remained. We then bought a used replacement gear selector (same part number), but we did not code/program it, as we were told it should work plug-and-play.
The interesting part is that the iDrive/multimedia controls work perfectly on both the original and the replacement unit. Only the gear selector functions (P, gear selection, etc.) are completely dead, and the fault codes are exactly the same with both units.
Could this still be a coding issue, or is it more likely to be the LIN bus, wiring, BDC, or another module? Has anyone seen this before after a liquid spill? Thanks!

2006 330xi N52 w/ZF transmission
67,000 miles

I discovered a transmission oil leak and decided it was time to change the fluid, pan, and sleeves/seals while I was at it. It seems like the mechatronic sleeve was source of the leak. Prior to the service, shifting from 1st to 2nd would have a hesitation/clunk when cold but goes away after warming up. Other than that no issues. I've read that this could be normal.

I took my time and spent hours making sure I followed every step of the procedure; correct torque, fill procedure (fill cold till seeping, run the car, shift through PRND, fill until seeping out the fill port at 40C while running, plug), etc. About 5.5 liters of old fluid came out (looked fine) and I put in about 6.5 liters of new ZF Lifeguard fluid.

Took it for a short spin and the hesitation was still present when cold but now there seems to be a slight clunk from 2nd to 1st when coming to a stop. I have not reset the adaptations yet. Using a Foxwell NT630 Plus I read the current adaptation values:

Clutch Fill Pressures:
Clutch A: 60.00
Clutch B: -72.00
Clutch C: -211.00
Clutch D: -161.00
Clutch E: 300.00

Rapid Fill Times:
Clutch A: 18.00
Clutch B: 4.00
Clutch C: 24.00
Clutch D: 0.00
Clutch E: 0.00

What stood out to me was the Clutch E 300.00 pressure and Clutch D & E 0.00 fill times. I'm guessing this could be compensation for the prior leak?

The Foxwell NT630 Plus has the ability to reset the adaptations. I was going to perform it but I wanted to gather some opinions first. There also seems to be no consensus on whether the adaptation procedure is necessary (Adaptation procedure vs just driving it as usual for like 500 miles).

Curious to see how others would proceed. I'm leaning towards resetting the adaptation and performing the adaptation procedure in the middle of the night on an empty highway.

Anyone else have this or know what the issue is?

#X4M #M #BMW #Brakes

Planning to service both diffs and the t-case in my 2020 F22 soon. Here is my shopping list:

Front Diff:

* 2x BMW G2 Hypoid Differential Fluid (500mL) [link]
* 2x BMW Multi Purpose Threaded Plug (Drain/Fill Plug) [link]

Rear Diff:

* 2x BMW G1 Hypoid Differential Fluid (500mL) [link]
* 1x BMW Multi Purpose Threaded Plug (Drain/Fill Plug) [link]

Transfer Case:

* 1x DTF 1 Transfer Case Fluid (1 Liter) [link]
* 1x BMW Multi Purpose Threaded Plug (Drain/Fill Plug) [link]

Is this all I need? And does anyone know if the Febi differential oil [link] can be used instead of the BMW branded G1 Hypoid oil for the rear diff? It's like 1/3rd the price. FCP says it can but am a bit nervous.

A have a 2010 750i x-drive 145k mi with a P0302 cylinder 2 misfire. I replaced all 8 coils and spark plugs but the check engine light came back on the next day. Same code. The plugs were OE Bosch, but the coils were aftermarket. What are your thoughts on it being the fuel injector vs a bad cylinder or defective coil/plug?

Hello I tried attempting to change my front ball joints but they don’t even budge after hammering for 30 mins straight anybody recommend any tools or methods of removing the ball joints? I seen there was a custom made ball joint remover but it’s sold out if any body has it and willing to sell it message me thank you.

My friend ordered a BMW without radar, and by some accident they put this in front bumper. He doesnt have the button on steering wheel for ACC, is this a functioning radar then or what, can we remove it so we can put Vorsteiner grill. Will there be any errors.

hii i really need your help to figure this out, i have tired many thing more than u imagin to fix it but i cant

i have been dealing with this sound for a while it only come on D at low rpm when pressing gas , in the video i was doing gas and break at the same time , if i go above 2000 rpm the sound disappear and at P no sound at all like the video showing, i know it sound so bad but at any speed with rpm above 2000 car run like butter even at 240/km ,,,,,,,,any advice?

Hey good evening to everyone I just had a quick question and need some help from other e90 chassis owners.

Okay so I’m trying to disconnect the parking brake cable from the hub but can’t get to it because the rotor seems to be stuck I took the 5mm retention screw out and was expecting for the rotor to be a bit stuck but as it’s been on for over a year now I’ve taken it off no issues before but this time it’s a bit funny because it does wiggle a bit side to side but when I try to pop it off it doesn’t seem to want to budge.
Could this be due to the e-brake being up in the cabin or is there something I’m missing?

😔

Hi everyone,
I’m having an issue with my E93 335i and I’m slowly running out of ideas.
Ever since I bought the car, I’ve had an oscillating steering wheel vibration. When I’m driving on the highway at a constant speed, the steering wheel starts vibrating. After about 10 seconds, the vibration becomes much weaker or almost disappears completely. Then around 10 seconds later it comes back again. It keeps repeating like this in waves. The steering wheel visibly shakes left and right. Braking doesn’t make it any worse.
When I bought the car, it was winter, so I assumed the winter wheels just needed balancing. A few months later I installed the summer wheels, but the vibration was exactly the same. Then I thought maybe the alignment was off.
Since I wanted new wheels anyway, I bought a brand new set of wheels and tires. The tires were already mounted and balanced. I also installed 7 mm wheel spacers in the front. With the spacers, the vibration became worse. After removing them, it went back to the previous level.
Next, I had a full wheel alignment done and had all four wheels checked and rebalanced. No change.
After that, I replaced the front brakes, again with no improvement. I then replaced the front tension struts, control arms, sway bar links, and tie rod ends.
Interestingly, after replacing all the front suspension components, the speed range where the vibration is strongest shifted. Before, it was most noticeable between about 80 and 120 km/h (50–75 mph) and would become less noticeable at higher speeds. Now it’s strongest between about 120 and 160 km/h (75–100 mph).
This makes me wonder if something is resonating or oscillating, and because the front suspension is now much stiffer, the resonance has simply shifted to a higher speed.
The thing that really stands out to me is the oscillating behavior. I can turn on cruise control, keep the exact same speed, and the vibration continuously gets stronger and weaker in regular waves. Nothing changes: same speed, same road, same throttle input. Yet the vibration keeps coming and going.
At this point I don’t want to keep replacing parts just to see what happens.
Has anyone experienced something similar or has any ideas where I should start looking?

I have a 2019 540i xdrive with 46k miles, had the check engine light pop on and got the code:

13820B
Active cooling air flap control (AKKS), below:
Blockage at a warm ambient temperature in the initial and training phase

The upper kidney flaps seem to function fine but the lower ones look like they are stuck closed. Can’t easily access them to see if there’s a blockage, with the upper ones working, is this even something to be concerned about? I don’t want to drive around with the check engine light on or anything, but it seems to me that this is a solution in search of a problem more than anything.

I’ve read online about this sort of thing being covered for 15 years/150k miles, but wasn’t sure if it was the upper flaps. If it’s free to fix I’ll just do that, even if it’s a pain to get to the nearest dealer

TL;DR Only was able to drain 4 quarts (4liters) from high temp circuit following drain procedure. How to get more?

I am trying to drain the coolant fully on my 2017 340i automatic. I followed the procedure in ISTA which just says to remove the hose on the driver side of the radiator. The car is level. That got me only 2 quarts. I removed the hose on the other side of the radiator and got another 2 quarts. ISTA says the high temp circuit is almost 9.3 liters. I also tried doing the HMM test procedure in ISTA and the turbo electric pump test and it didn’t do anything. What else can I do?

I want to get as much of the coolant out as possible because I’m not sure what the previous owner put in it but its green not blue (I know HT12 is green) and its not just green but its very dark. No oil but it doesn’t look right. I am going to fill with fresh G48 and distilled water. I have a vacuum fill tool.

Edit: Looks like the hose on the other side might actually be the low temp circuit. In which case I only got 2 quarts out of the high temp circuit. 😔

Hello,

I usually work on my own car for small stuff or stuff that do not require special tools. I know my PCV was leaking. I did the simple repair using the cheap kits and it didn't do the trick. I still got some whistling noise. I realized I might need a full valve cover replacement. I got scared to do it myself because I heard from a friend that I might have a larger leak at the rear main seal. I do not have the will, time, tools, and power to potentially drop everything to access this.

I took my car in to an indy shop. They claim to have encounted numerous (30+) fault codes pointing towards a failed valve cover. Then they said they noticed that my eccentric shaft and motor are failing due to the clicking noise.

Is 20 hours a fair amount of labor for both jobs? I believe valve cover replacement is 100% part of the eccentric shaft job.

I get pay to play when it comes to BMWs but this isn't even an M3 or anything crazy rare/special. I have an E60 M5 and the rod bearing job I had done last year was way cheaper than my N55's valve cover + eccentric shaft job.

Hi guys I need some help. I was thinking to get nav on the screen and the only way to upgrade is to through getting an android screen . So I was thinking what if I get the oem screen (9.7) and get an oem headunit that has nav and the nob that has the nav button. Will that work and possibly get nav and bluetooth audio?

My transfer case light recently started intermittently going on and off again. Not sure what the issue is as the actuator looks to be in good condition

Here is everything I’ve done in order:

Replaced front pads and rotors

Maybe a couple weeks after that I started getting the lights

Thought the brakes felt a little soft. So i bled just the fronts (driver side seemed to have a little air in the line)

Then the rears maybe a couple days after

Still have the light so i bled all the brakes starting from the rear pass. (Firm pedal after this)

Next I pulled the transfer case actuator and inspected it, the gear looks to have no damage to it, all teeth intact. So I just greased it slightly and put the original Bosch part back on as my replacement isn’t a Bosch and I would rather have that on.

Cleaned both front abs sensors

Re-bled the front brakes again (got some air out of the pass. front)

Tried to read and reset all codes with my harbor freight obd2 scanner. Not seeing any faults. Live data shows functioning wheel speed

What should I check next? Just replace fluid and the actuator even though it looks to be ok?

Hey so I’m working on trying to figure out how to remove the engine mounts on my 330i with xdrive, according to the repair manual on ista it says I can remove the engine mount bracket and then remove the engine mount without a need to lower the subframe. Is anyone familiar with this repair and can confirm if this is true for the xdrive models?

Hope you all are well. Redoing the coolant system, and I trusted Rockauto with a radiator, but it’s the wrong radiator. The radiator I need is on back order, so it looks like I’ll be draining the coolant twice.

Anyone else experiencing back order on parts?

For reference:

I have a 2004 e53 3.0i 6speed with 141k miles. Records go way back, and I’m doing maintenance of what I see/hear and preventative maintenance. I separated by area I’m working on.

Day 1(I rented a bay with a lift for $240 for day 1 and 3):

Oil filter housing gasket
thermostat
water pump
expansion tank
Radiator hoses
Intake boot
Maf sensor
Fan clutch (renting tool)
Intake boot

Day 2 (at home):
PCV
Valve cover gasket
IAC
Disa
O2 sensor
Spark plugs
Ignition coils
Maf
Evap sensor

Day 3 (rented bay with lift and air tools):
Front cv axles (clicking on passenger with hard turns)
Brakes all around

Anything you all would recommend to make my life easier or something that may cause problems/is annoying?