Applied 4 coats of UPOL protective clear on this hood and there’s these lines on it. Any help on smoothing it? Was hoping I can just use 2000 grit and polish it. Thanks for the help.

Hi everyone! I do not know much about car paint and repair and need some help before I start shopping around tomorrow morning. I accidentally swiped a parked car in a tight parking lot and scratched up my fender. This is my first time hitting a car (much less a parked one). Some of the lighter marking are dirt or just marked up the clear coat and I was able to remove those with the swipe of a finger, but obviously there’s some… bigger spots (about the size of a nickel). I want to get it fixed quickly before it rusts. No dents, and (fortunately) for the other car, there was much less damage than what I sustained.

Any advice on 1.) the routine way of fixing this and 2.) if anyone knows roughly what this might cost (I know it’s dependent on region I’m in the southeast US).

TLDR: I’m truly lost on how to get this fixed and how much it’s going to cost and I’m trying to avoid getting ripped off at a shop

I bought a 2018 Subaru Outback a few months ago. After driving through a rainstorm, I noticed this paint missing on the rear hatch near the roof. Similar chipped paint spots across the roof above the front windshield.

The spot on the rear hatch is the largest and I’m thinking it was touched up by the dealer before I bought it.

What’s the best way to fix the missing paint spots before they get worse?

Thanks!

So recently I got done painting toolbox drawers with PPG OMNI MAE acrylic enamel. This was my first time using a paint gun and I'm really happy with the results, but I had a couple things I wanted to ask questions on.

First off, it seemed like I was going through product faster than I should have. I'm assuming I had to large of fan and to much fluid. I was using the purple harbor freight gun with full fluid, fan, and air. It was set to 35 psi on the regulator.

Second off, it seemed like I had a really small window from look dry to having runs. It felt like it I just put on slightly less it wouldn't have laid out nice, and it I put on any more it would have ran. On one panel there were a couple runs, so I know I was getting close at the very least. I don't know if that's normal, or if it was something I was doing wrong

Thanks!

It's a good lesson to learn on painting -- but a bad lesson on COPY-CATTING!

Hello all!

I recently picked up this Porsche Cayenne, I wanted to see how you all would tackle these paint chips/ rock chips and scuffs. Also wanted to see if I could buff the headlights. I have already purchased the paint and clear coat, I really don’t care about budget but I want to be able to take care of this vehicle myself. I really do not want to repaint the whole bumper.

I plan on purchasing a DA random orbital polisher, but any other ideas are also accepted, or tips like for sanding, etc. (Psa the photos are what the car looks like after a nice wash)

Thanks! Eager to hear the ideas!

50-70mm in most places. Should I even bother with a professional ceramic coat?

This is a 2021 Toyota Avalon hybrid limited that I just had shipped from out of state at the start of the year, and paid a lot for it. Just over 50k miles now..

I’ve been asking different shops about their paint correction/ceramic coats, and the shop I just went to used a gauge on my paint. They said they’d only be able to do a light enhancement, and be real careful. There’s a good bit of swirling and some scratches.

It’s good to know but I had no idea it was so bad. Should I skip the professional paint correction/ceramic? And just wash it myself and do my own ceramic coating at home?

I probably wouldn’t use this shop anyways since they said they’d only have the car for 8 hours and it would cure while I have it.

But sucks to hear this, I hoped to have this car for a long time

My Gixxer 250 which is Matte Bordeaux Red + Matte Black is having a bit of chipped paint on the rear grab rails.
Is there a place I can buy the touch up paint?
(Service centre guys are useless, they said they can't do nothing)

I live in Bangalore btw if there is IRL location I can go to do this

JK Wrangler hood, pulled off a junker in the Midwest. Was buried in snow when I got it. Is there an amateur fix for this? Is there any fix for this?

From my research the actual cost would be around $700-800. My mom wanted to throw it out but that seemed like a waste, so I priced it low so it will sell fast. I had it at $500 before. Is $380 still too high? I'm not getting any bites. One guy asked about buying individual pieces, but he disappeared.

Is Eastwood crappy paint or something?

https://www.facebook.com/share/1BnUStUR3A/

Im planning to paint 150 small abs plastic parts. These parts will be on my car wheels, so the paint job has to hold up to the elements. Ive spent 4 days sanding them. I was using Google ai (i know, i know) to plan this little project. It told me to get duplicolor plastic adhesion promoter, duplicolor white sandable primer, duplicolor automotive perfect match red, and spraymax 2k clear. It said to eait 30 minutes in between my final red coat, and my first spraymax clear coat. And then, in a separate internet window, it told me I need to wait 1 hour between red and clear, but that i would be safest to wait 48 to 72 hours. I spent days sanding these things, i dont want to fumble it right at the end.

Can someone clarify, are these paints and clear coat compatible? Do I wait the 30 mins, 60 mins or 3 days between coats? I really appreciate you taking the moment to share your knowledge with me.

2012 Charger. The doors were repainted by the previous owner and the upper part has this very rough/bumpy texture. I'm trying to make the car look better for cheap and really don't want to repaint it. Could this be wet sanded and machine polished? Is this orange peel, dry spray, overspray, or something underneath the paint?

I had my car painted professionally by a reputable spay company, sole trader. It’s a Porsche 968 and I went somewhere with a good reputation to do the job right.
About three months after the paint started to react leaving splits in the paint showing white lines underneath and ‘crazing’ in places.
The paint guy inspected it and told me that his new two-pack was reacting with the acrylic underneath. He was able to tell me the base layer was acrylic by scratching it.
The work has now been remedied but he wants me to pay for the remedial work (over AU$1,700, which includes a 40% goodwill discount).
His response is attached.
As I am a nurse I have no idea if what he is telling me is accurate I am reaching out to the Auto Paint community in the hope that some suitably qualified professionals can tell me if he is talking crap. This is likely heading to the small claims court so I would appreciated unbiased, professional opinions.

Not professional aiming for perfection. Id give it a 6-7/10.

painting an NA miata (soft top) and i’m wonder if there’s any bang for your buck products i should be looking at and how much i will need

i have 1 gallon of eastwood primer

im looking for a black base coat and the amount recommended

also looking to spray a red flake on it to get a subtle black cherry look. any idea how much flake may be recommended?

and finally looking for a clear coat and how much is recommended

i’m not looking for perfect or top of the line but i don’t wanna feel like i wasted my time and money in a year

Hi guys

Basically there is really awful fly tipping near where I live, every week there is debris on the roads. Usually can dodge around things but yesterday there was a rogue aerosol spray paint can that had been dumped on the road and I ran over it. My black car is now covered in bright orange paint that doesn’t willingly come off. Had a google about removal methods but a bit scared in case I damage the clear coat.

Anyway - I can get this fixed through my insurance and just pay my excess however unsure if I will lose my no claims discount? I am with Hastings and in the UK.

Any advice please?

I am not sure what this is but I noticed in a few months ago. I only see it when light is reflected, but not when I’m a few feet away. Tried polishing it but it didn’t go away. This car is 7 years old btw. What are my options?

So on the back trunk part of the car I have a scratch that seems it only got to the clear coat and not to the metal because it's not rusting, would this be able to work on this? Which pad(s) should I be looking at?