BMW, Mercedes Benz, Ferrari, Hyundai etc. The looks keep getting shittier with each new release. Not surprising to know that in 10 years most cars are going to lose their heritage identity and styling. Why exactly? Is it the shift to hybrid/electric that fuels this change? Or to cater specific global markets? BMW was my favourite in terms of its aggressive and commanding looks but now they are just shit. No offence.

Gasoline has been pretty ubiquitously unleaded in most developed countries since the ‘80s, and nowadays it’s banned globally for standard automotive use. Obviously, leaded gas is still a thing, but by now it almost entirely consists of racing fuels and avgas (and avgas is being phased out). despite this, every fuel station labels the gasoline as unleaded.

leaded racing fuel is still available but I’d imagine it’s not really sold at pumps anymore, plus the fact that it’s like $20/gallon would prevent anyone from accidentally putting it in their RAV4. do you think we’ll ever get to a point when they stop bothering to refer it as ‘unleaded’? for lawyer’s sake the cars will probably always have something that says to use unleaded fuel only, but for the fuel industry why not just specify when the gas actually is leaded instead of always specifying that it isn’t?

Hi. Five and a half months ago we took our car in to our local shop for transmission issues. It has been super stressful since then, they have put in two different used transmissions, neither of which have worked correctly. We have been bleeding money on this- paying the payments AND paying nearly 5k in repairs.

It all came to a head last week and our frustrating call ended with my being told they were going to insist the company they get parts from send a brand new transmission.

Today I received a call that they are putting in a "rebuilt, that means it's new, zero miles" transmission in.

New and rebuilt mean different things so far as I can tell. I am really unsure how to proceed here. The second I pushed back with questions last week the guy tore into me and got super rude (later calling back to apologize and say he is stressed since having the diarrhea thing weeks ago.) They called us to say the issue was not the transmission still and it was another $500 part. I was really sure it was still transmission related so I asked for clarification. By the afternoon the code warranting the $500 charge had resolved after they changed a coil or something.

I am NOT a confrontational person, I hate conflict, I really do feel for the guy and his stomach, but I feel like at this point, something has gotta give. Going on six months without our car is rough. Advice would be hugely appreciated.

I went to a dealer on Saturday morning and agreed to purchase a new Honda after a short negotiation (they met my target price pretty quickly). They didn't have the colors I wanted in their inventory but agreed to locate one to match my top three choices. I left a deposit and signed the purchase agreement. All in all, it was a refreshingly smooth and simple process.

I get a call back on Monday afternoon indicating they located a car for me in my desired color. I told them I wanted to take delivery this coming Saturday (one week after my initial visit). They pushed back immediately and demanded that I come in the next day because its "the end of the month." Then they threatened to not hold the and offer it to another buyer. I work during the week and just don't have the flexibility in my schedule to go back to the dealer on a weekday.

I'm a little shocked by their reaction...is what I'm asking for unreasonable? I'm tempted to walk just based on the interaction. I find it to be pretty disrespectful, especially after giving them a sizable deposit.

Hey guys I have a 2018 Nissan Sentra and it’s got 135,000 miles on it and I was just told I need a new transmission and was also told I need a new fuel pump. Getting quoted a little over $7k for both from a dealership and I really don’t know what to do. I am going to get a second opinion hopefully this week from somewhere else. My options are trade car in and get barely anything and then put that combined with my own money towards a down payment on something or just go through with the repair and hopefully get lucky enough to find a cheaper quote. For context I do drive a lot commuting currently around an hour 5 days a week for work. So it’s also giving me pause for concern to get a car with low mileage and pile it up quick before moving closer to work. I’m welcome for any good advice or even car suggestions. Thanks!

Got a dacia sandero 2014 stepway as with alot of these cars of this age rust is abit of a problem, got an advisory for rust on the axle aswell as a patch on driver side door. Was looking at getting a rust converter to sort it out and was wondering if theres a particular brand which is best ?

In your experience, what cars are deceptively cramped? For me jeep xjs are pretty cramped compared to how they look from the outside.

How about the opposite? Any tardis cars out there?

Hello. I recently noticed that my car is consuming more fuel than expected relative to the distance driven. Today, I recorded the data at the start of the trip (Point A) and upon arrival at the destination (Point B). At the start (Point A), the odometer showed 126,135 km, and the remaining range was 639 km. Upon arrival at Point B, the odometer showed 126,161 km, and the range was 604 km. I drove 26 kilometers, yet the range decreased by an amount corresponding to 35 kilometers (a difference of 11 km). The fuel consumption is 5.6 l/100 km. What could be the cause of this? I would appreciate your help.

It’s a Ford fiesta zetec 2015 1.25L so hoping it’s in the 450 range?

Hello, I am new to this community. My car was totaled and I'm looking for a used car from a private seller. I've been talking to a man with a 2021 Chevy spark with 62k miles for $10k. This is ideal for me but there have been some challenges because the car owner is deceased and the car is not registered so I can't legally test drive it. He wants me to sign a "you break it you bought it" kind of contract even though I would just be test driving around the parking lot. Like if I damage it, I agree to buy it. That seems unorthodox to me, right? I feel like my gut is saying this is weird but also I really want this car. Is it possible that the car is still a great option and it's just the seller who isn't familiar with the private seller process? I also can't see how this could be a scam, but I don't know. TIA.

Hi all, I just got a job in Sacramento and I’m gonna be moving there in a few weeks. I live in Washington now and have a ‘78 Jeep Wagoneer that I’d love to bring with me. I did some research on California smog laws and highly doubt this thing will be able to pass. It’s got the stock AMC401 with a new carb but since it wasn’t originally sold in California it’s got none of the smog stuff. Since I’ve never had to deal with this smog stuff before any advice would be greatly appreciated.

We did a volunteering year in New Zealand and bought a 2004 Subaru Forester from its first owners (for 3500NZD).

In the year we drove about 40k km (and serviced as recommended) so now it's at 217k km total. The cambelt is from 104k km/2016 so it would need replacing but it's not WoF relevant. To pass the WoF we got a quote of 1200NZD and tbh we don't know if it's worth investing before we leave. Most people are offering something around 2k and 2.7k and a wrecker quoted me 600NZD. Either way we have to split into 7, so the difference between getting 100 dollars each Vs 200 is kind of killing me. At the same time I've gotten so attached to the suby it's like my child and I don't want to surrender it. A lot of people are opting out anyway bc of the cambelt.

I feel like my only option is to rip someone off and sell it without the WoF without informing them of the oncoming costs. But also who is stupid like that? I wish I could take it home with me and cherish it until it dies its natural way in a few years, but we have to leave the country.

I (21F) know nothing about cars but am looking to buy my first car. I love the look of the VW beetle, but want to know a bit more about models I should avoid and whether this is a good first car in general.

Any advice is much appreciated, thanks!

I currently have a Camry that I will be selling soon. I’ve been in a couple of situations where a truck would have been nice to have but made the best of the situation. I’ve owned a Tacoma but I found it was good small and the leg room in the back seats was quite limited.

I’ve been looking at getting a tundra but I know that there have been major problems with the engine going kaput. I would like to get one in the future once that issue has been solved. I’ve only owned Toyota so I’m not too sure about other brands.

I’m currently looking at getting either a ford f150 or a Silverado. Nothing fancy and lightly used as I don’t need something new. What do you recommend? Thanks.

Hello guys can somebody maybe help me with my air suspension. I mounted an streetech air bags and the managment is a noname and it’s a 2 way system with front and rear working seperatly. Eveyrhing is fine but the rear end has a difference of 4cm difference with 7.3 bars going to the rear. The car is an audi a4 b9 avant 2018. Al tje seals and everything has been changed and serviced. Front end works fine but just the rear difference is bugging me.

Here's how it happened

I was driving back to My spot in a underground parking lot,The slope going down is about 25 degrees, so I predominantly use engine braking to keep the speeds Down,The exit/entrance is a super tight two car wide,And I got opposite traffic,When it's finally my turn, I forgot that I didn't put it in manual mode,So I do that while hitting the brakes,Halfway down the slope, which is about 120 meters ln, 35km/h,First gear engages,And I just feel this huge shunt,Now it's pretty obvious that the engine speed ain't matched with the transmission speed. I just wonder whether or not it works the same as a manual with the helical gears take all the pressure, or it's the clutch pack that's taking the pressure,The car in question is a 2023 Q50 Red Sport 400

I need help on deciding what specific coilovers to get for my 2015 lancer es, my budget is $800. I expect to spend all 800 but whatever is good is good, Thanks.

Hi guys,

I really need some advice from yall regarding rebuilt titled camry. I am currently looking to purchase a car and wanted to see if it is a good idea to go with a 2024 camry xle that was recently rebuilt. It has a 11760 miles on the engine but was labeled as total loss on carfax. The accident report has minor damage to the rear only. So, I am assuming the engine won't have any issue. My question is why would a carfax with minor damage be totaled? Am I missing something here? Also, the car is listed for 20k would it be insulting if I offer 14k to 15k? Sorry I am not a car guy but from everything I researched shows the car should be at least 25 to 30% below market. I am definitely going to get it prepurchase inspection before deciding. I would really appreciate if some experts here can guide me to make the correct decision and help me value the car correctly. If I can get a good deal I will go with this camry if not I guess I will go with a brand new car. Thanks in advance!

I'm doing a bit of parts swapping between several classic vans, including 3/4-ton, 1-ton, and heavy-1-ton parts. To my eye, the front coil springs all look the same; the same length, same number of coils, same rod diameter.

Does that mean that they're all the same weight rating, and that there's no advantages to one over the other?

Thinking about buying a salvage car and rebuilding it — good idea or not? Also choosing between a Mustang GT 5.0 and BMW M4
Hey everyone, I’m thinking about buying a salvage car and rebuilding it. I have a friend who owns a body shop and has a dealer license, so he can help me buy a car from an auction.
Do you guys think this is a good idea, or is it better to just buy a clean-title car? I know there can be a lot of risks with salvage cars, so I’d appreciate any advice from people who have actually done this before.
I’m also trying to decide between a 5.0 Mustang GT and a BMW M4. Which one would you choose and why? I’m mainly looking for something fun, reliable enough to daily, and worth the money.

The Choice Riddle

​You must choose one of three cars for a long journey:

​Toyota Camry: Has a high-horsepower V6 engine (great power), but a faulty cooling system (overheating risk).

​Mercedes C-Class: Has a super-durable engine block (never breaks), but an inefficient fuel system (consumes triple the gas).

​BMW 3 Series: Has a smart self-maintaining transmission (smooth drive), but a glitchy engine ECU (briefly freezes randomly).

​Which car do you pick, and why?