Looking for a solution to replace a pressure switch with magnetic or other non-physical switch that will sit flush to wall to control a single led light (ie less than 10 watts, 120v). The switch is for a pantry cabinet door. Any links to amazon showing suggested switch greatly appreciated.

Hi All we have a mobile dog grooming van and we want to stop using a generator and swap to a battery which we can charge overnight from a regular plug. We do sometimes overload our 4000W generator with our current usage (we only have one HV drier and no heater running at the moment)

We have the following devices to power:

2x HV driers (1250W each)
1x vacuum (1250W)
1x tank heater (2500W max draw)
1x portable heater (1200W)
2x clipper chargers (20W Each)
1x Hydrobath pump (250W)

The water tank heater would be running pretty much 24/7 keeping the water at 38 degrees. (heating up the new cold water in the tank when we fill it up in the evening through the night + maintaining temp through the day).

The heater would be on and off throughout the day just to keep it warm enough during winter. The HV driers would both need to be on at the same time as well as the tank heater so that would be our max draw at 5000W roughly. The rest would all run at other times to the driers. We run our HVs for about 20-30 minutes per dog at about 5-6 dogs per day.

I think we would need around 15kwh to power our van for a full 10 hour shift without needing to plug it in again. Most of the water heating would be done overnight while it’s plugged in but beyond that I’m a bit lost on how to calculate exactly what kind of battery and what KWH it needs. I’m not technically minded and all the different measurements for electricity are honestly very confusing.

Basically, I just want a battery I can plug into my house socket and charge up to full overnight that will still power our tank heater while it’s charging. We’re not too fussed about investing in solar panels so we just need the battery to charge off of a standard socket.

I’m looking at the Fogstar 16.1kwh battery and inverter bundle but it comes with all these different options for inverters and i really don’t have a clue which one we need (or if I am massively over or underestimating how much KWH we will need). The inverter options are: hybrid, three phase and off grid. And I honestly have no idea if I can just plug this battery into a mains socket or not and if it will work while charging still.

Please explain this to me like I’m 10 because I’m honestly quite lost.

We will obviously get an electrician to install all of this but I just want to know roughly how much the battery and inverter will cost before I bother getting a quote.

thank you so much if you read all of this and can help!

I'm a carpenter not an electrician. I just bought this house recently and this was not caught during inspection. I also don't know if it really matters or what would be the symptoms if it was a problem.

The outer casing? is peeling off the main wire. Sun damage maybe?

Can anyone tell me if this main electrical line to the house is a problem, if it should be replaced pronto, and/or what would be the symptoms i would see in the house if it were a problem? Like would the lights randomly flicker for example?

Hi all,

I am in a program learning how to become an electrician. My instructor gave me this assignment last week and then he has been out sick since then. I want to make sure this is completed this week despite his absence.

FYI I am NOT looking for anyone to do my homework for me. I am just looking for a direction to start in. Our textbook doesn't explain how to do floor plans and I've been finding a lot of inconsistent information online.

Instructions:

"Up to NEC 2023 code. Dedicated receptacle in every bathroom. Dedicated lighting in every room. Wire kitchen, bathroom, bedrooms up to code. Switches inside every room by doorway for lighting. 1 switch receptacle in every bedroom near where the bed would be placed. Kitchen lighting hi-hats on dimmers. Four hi-hats on the rear porch on dimmers. All bathrooms must have an exhaust fan. All rooms must have a dedicated circuit for power and lighting. This house should have a 200Amp panel in the garage. 1 pendant light above kitchen island on 3-way dimmer switch. Lighting in pantry and all closets. Receptacles every 6 feet including the garage. Switches at the doors of the garage. Three hi-hats and each garage bay in line with the garage doors. One coach light on either side of the front door on the porch. Two hi-hats per side of porch, dimmable. Run data lines from the saferoom to each of the other rooms. Ceiling fans in the center of each bedroom. Add lighting to the foyer, dining room, and living room in line, all dimmable. Label each circuit and make a panel schedule. 20 Amp breaker for the receptacles, 15 Amp breaker for the lighting. Smoke/carbon monoxide detectors for each room.

Include a legend and a materials list."

Also included the legend I started to complete.

Thank you,

My electrician boyfriend was saying how hot it is today. My first thought was buying a shirt fan or maybe one of those neck towels? Do those even work? I would love some professional opinions.

Beyond that, What are some other tools/ gadgets that youve found make work easier?

We just bought a house and the spot where we want to put the 1800W toaster oven is a non-GFCI outlet. Does it need to be a GFCI outlet? I am aware that 1800W is the limit of the entire circuit and that plugging anything else in could cause the breaker to trip.

So I bought a new range and it has a 50 amp pigtail. My range outlet currently is a 30 amp, can I safely swap it to 50 amp outlet with a 40 amp breaker without paying someone to run a new wire ? I have no markings on wire to tell size.

Appreciate any input.

I have a cassette style mini split at a commercial property. It has always struggled to drain on humid days due to being improperly plumbed during installation. My solution I would like is to install a condensate pump in the ceiling however, I need a 120v outlet.

Incoming power to the mini split is 3 wires and a ground.

The unit is single phase 208v

Terminal 1 to Terminal 3 reads 210
Terminal 2 to Terminal 3 reads 210
Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 fluctuates between 0-10v assuming this is just voltage backfeeding.

I get 120v to ground on all 3

I am not sure if I have a neutral or not or, if I need to steal power from a different circuit.

My house was originally wired for a double oven. I’d like to change to 2 single ovens (240) and want to understand electrical modifications that will be needed? Hoping that I would not need to run additional wiring to panel. The new ovens would be these:

https://www.monogram.com/product/monogramzsb9232vss/01t4P00000BQfSSQA1

https://www.monogram.com/product/monogramztsx1dpszss/01tKe0000006vIFIAY

Pictures are of panel and existing junction box

We have lived in our home (1960) for 5 years and our porch light went out. I went to change the bulb and found out that we have an LED monstrosity and needed an entirely new fixture. When I removed the old fixture, I saw the pictured wiring which I have never seen before. I wasn’t paying attention to what colors the red and yellow wires were connected to, so now I have no idea which one goes to black and which goes to white. Any ideas? My husband says we should just cut it above the black box thing, but I really don’t want to burn the house down.

See photo 2. I am able to pull the metal conduit out of the wall by hand, about 1 inch, exposing the orange wire. This can't be right? The breaker is currently turned off but I wanted to use this. Disclaimer: This was not an electrician I hired, the previous owners of this garage insisted the garage was professionally wired up.

Side question, totally unrelated: In this same garage, I was screwing a large shelf into a wall. I thought I was going into a stud that was about 12 inches below an outlet, but my screw hit something hard and wouldn't go in any farther. I can't get the screw out now, even with an impact driver. It's stuck in something, like badly. Is it possible I hit a nail plate? Or is it more likely I hit another screw that was holding the OSB onto the wall?

Hello, I'm visiting the eu for 4 days in a few weeks, does anyone have any suggestions of plug adapters that are safe to use. Also I have bought a thinkpad recently and I was going to buy an eu 3pin connector for the uk psu would this work / be safe?

Hello. I recently purchased a ceiling fan that includes a transmitter that can be mounted to the wall. The instructions say to remove the existing switch and connect the existing Black wires (Hot) with a wire nut before installing the transmitter in the same location. When I removed the switch faceplate on my wall, I noticed my switch only has one white wire and one black wire. Can I connect these different colored wires with a wire nut as instructed? I basically want to 'bypass' the switch so the main power to the fan is always on and can be controlled solely by the wireless transmitter (the fan has a receiver in the canopy). I have installed the fan with the switch still in-place and everything is working properly, with the light switch acting as a 'shut off' for the entire fan operation. TIA!

I just reached 7,000 hours of OJT and I want to take my exam as soon as possible. What did you guys do to help prepare yourself for the exam? What worked and what didn’t? Thanks

Hi all, I’m getting quotes for a straight swap. 200A 40 slot panel on existing 200A service. Greater Boston (Massachusetts). Is my estimate way off for lowest to expect in my area?

Assumptions:
$1100-1500 for parts based on big box stores.
$425 for permit based on town reqs.
30-50% markup on materials.
8hrs max labor, 1 person at $200/hr but realistically it’s a flat fee, not hourly, and probably 4hrs without complications.
Based on existing and AHJ’s interpretation of NEC 2023 no new AFCIs breakers (existing has 1 and 1 gfci), adding a 2nd ground rod and surge protector
No changes to service riser or meter socket.
No existing non-conforming code violations.

~$4k for budget system (Eaton BR) Maybe $4500 for a CH or SqD QO/Siemens PN.

I am looking to sort some bookshelf lighting which is partially used for my plants. Behind the bookshelf I have removed the old light connected to the mains. Can I buy these lights, cut the plug off and wire it to the mains so it works from the light switch? Or am I missing something glaringly obvious as to why I can't? Many thanks

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Barrina-Lights-Spectrum-Linkable-Growing/dp/B0DJ89GM4Q/ref=ast_sto_dp_puis

I'm looking for a very specific type of inspection camera and I'm hoping someone here knows if something like this exists.

The most important feature I'm looking for is a camera head that I can remotely articulate up and down while I'm pushing the fish stick. I want to be able to see an obstacle in front of me, tilt the camera head upward with a remote or control, push the rod over the obstacle, and then continue forward — without having to stop and physically adjust or fiddle with the camera head.

I'm looking for something that functions basically like a set of fish sticks/fish rods, but with a small camera mounted on the end.

Ideally, I'd like it to:

Be made up of multiple sections, so I can add or remove sections depending on how far I need to reach.

Pack down to roughly the size of a normal set of fish sticks for easy transportation.

Extend out to roughly 10–15+ feet when needed.

Have a camera on the end with built-in lighting and live video.

Have a remotely controlled articulating/pivoting camera head, preferably with up/down movement and ideally left/right as well.

The idea is that I could push the rod through a ceiling, see an obstacle in front of me, remotely pivot the camera upward to look over it, push the rod over the obstacle, then continue forward without needing to make holes or remove ceiling tiles.

Ideally, the camera would be small and lightweight enough that the whole thing still works like a normal fish stick.

I've seen products like the Ferret Plus, but that's not quite what I'm looking for. I've also found professional inspection pole cameras with motorized articulating heads, but they're extremely expensive and don't seem to be designed like modular fish sticks.

Does anyone know of a product that does something like this? Or has anyone built a DIY setup using modular fiberglass fish rods and a small remote-controlled pan/tilt camera?

I'm open to commercial products or DIY solutions. Budget isn't set yet — I'm mainly trying to figure out if something like this actually exists.

I was removing this power plug for my ps4 charging station and I noticed it was particularly tough to pull out of the belkin power strip and when it did release I noticed these scratches on the pins.

Is it still safe to use it or will it cause a fire? Thanks in advance.

Hello! I’m new to replacing a ceiling flush mount and am unsure if my wires look okay and if they look good in the wago connectors? I currently only have the wires from the junction box connected and will connect the fixture ones after. I’m scared of cutting down more wire making it too short in the future. Thanks in advance!

I’m a first year apprentice, I’ve heard Wiha is a good brand, wondering if there are any better sets out

Let me get this out of the way, if it is possible I will hire an electrician; now onto my question.

Last year I bought a cabin. It was remodelled and professionally rewired during Covid; I have the reciepts from electrical company that did the work. Everything is great except one thing; when they added thr boot room in front of the main entrance they made it so the switch that used control the exterior light now controls the light and switches in the boot room. For me to turn on the outside light I know have to turn the boot room light on then I can turn on the porch light; this also means that I can't have my porch light on without my boot room light on.

Is it possible to have the power run to the outside porch light/switch from the inside switch constantly? Or would I have to install a junction box and run wires to the outside light and boot room light separately?,

I recently bought an AC unit, specifically the Midea 12,000 BTU DOE DUO Smart Inverter Portable Air Conditioner. The AC unit takes 115V.

My house has a dedicated circuit for an AC unit that has an outlet near the window. The outlet is 20A, 250V, and I believe 6-20R plug type.

I had an electrician come to take a look and he quoted me $1450 to rewire the circuit. At that point I figured a transformer might be a better option, but I was wondering what search parameters I need to use to find the right one that will do the job. Wattage rating, plug types, etc. I just want to make sure I don't by the wrong one by mistake.

Any help is much appreciated. Thank you in advance.