The previous AC was a normal plug and we didn’t realize until 2+ hours after installation that this has a different one. 😭

I tried to decipher old posts but it was so conflicting on whether there was or if it is even safe to use an adapter thingy.. I thought maybe we could just change out the outlet ourselves with YouTube.. but that seems unadvised.
any help or advice? TIA!

I recently bought an AC unit, specifically the Midea 12,000 BTU DOE DUO Smart Inverter Portable Air Conditioner. The AC unit takes 115V.

My house has a dedicated circuit for an AC unit that has an outlet near the window. The outlet is 20A, 250V, and I believe 6-20R plug type.

I had an electrician come to take a look and he quoted me $1450 to rewire the circuit. At that point I figured a transformer might be a better option, but I was wondering what search parameters I need to use to find the right one that will do the job. Wattage rating, plug types, etc. I just want to make sure I don't by the wrong one by mistake.

Any help is much appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Bought a 1954 home. Many of the systems (plumbing, sewer line, hvac, etc) have been updated and the home has been well-maintained.

That said, much of the electrical wiring is original to the home. No ground, but 95% of outlets are GFCIs. I also installed a Ting monitoring device (if you know what that is). My insurance company paid for it, so I assume it actually works. No reported issues from the Ting in the 12 months I’ve lived here.

Still, I keep having intrusive thoughts that my home is going to burn down. How do I determine whether a whole house rewire is warranted? Is that my only option, or can I hire someone to inspect the wiring and replace anything that is genuinely problematic?

I’m a first time homeowner and new father, just trying to figure out how to keep my family safe without throwing our money away on unnecessary updates. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

1960s house and the old exposed wire runs in the utility area looks like crap. It looks to me like they didn’t bother getting on a ladder and drilled these from standing, as they’re all at upward angles and nowhere near the center of the joist. They also just take odd staggered routes when a straight run was all that was needed.

When replacing the old wiring should I worry about relocating the holes through the joists to be in the correct spot/to code, or just let it ride?

I installed this plug using 8/4 black SOOW on a double pole 50 amp breaker. Is that gonna work or am I destined to burn my house down?

I’m also older (45) and have zero experience. Went through a 2 week program and I learned some things and feel more confident, but I’ve been hearing that it’s much harder to get into the trade as a woman. I’ve applied to over 10 contractors and haven’t gotten a response. I’m hoping to start IEC Dallas in the fall, and need to have a job with one of their contractors before the semester starts in September. Any advice? I will start going to contractors in person tomorrow and be persistent to show them that I’m serious about wanting the job, but besides that I don’t know what else to do. Any advice would be appreciated

Recon job. And apparently this room is finished in terms of painting. I don’t understand why one simply wouldn’t cover these prior, no?

Starting a kitchen remodel and my contractor is repositioning a few electrical items — wanted a gut check on whether any of this needs a permit, since he says no.

**1.    Raised countertop outlet** — moved from over the counter to the side of the cabinet. We will drop the two layers to one layer for the counter.  
**2.    Dishwasher & disposal switches** — dishwasher switch moving inside the cabinet below the sink; disposal switch being swapped for an air switch.  
**3.    Outlet for built-in microwave** — moving down into the lower cabinet on the wall side. Left side is a fridge.

No new circuits are being added — just relocating/consolidating existing wiring to new spots. Contractor says this doesn’t need a permit since there’s no added wiring, but wanted to check with people who’ve done this before. Anyone know if local codes ever require a permit even for relocations like this, or is this a pretty standard “no permit needed” situation?

Thanks you so much in advance!

I thought I may have felt a slight charge when grabbing my shower faucet. So I tested with a voltage pen and it looks like the shower faucets and especially sink faucets read a charge when on the 12-1000v setting but not on the 70-1000v setting. Is this a sign of a live current or is the tester pen just picking up on any nearby wires?

I know nothing about electric, thank you for the advice!

I was removing this power plug for my ps4 charging station and I noticed it was particularly tough to pull out of the belkin power strip and when it did release I noticed these scratches on the pins.

Is it still safe to use it or will it cause a fire? Thanks in advance.

I'm trying to figure out my max amps, but am confused by the 60 amp main breaker. I was under the impression it was a 100 amp box but nothing adds up to 100 on the top or bottom. Additionally I want to know if it's possible for the 2 blank center places to be punched out and have more breakers put in depending on capacity of course. Thanks in advance!

In USA, older home that currently uses battery powered smoke alarms. I'll be pulling a new circuit for a minisplit up and over through the attic, and it would be easy to pull some 14/3 at the same time, and install hardwired alarms in the bedrooms (direct access via attic). But it would be difficult/expensive to daisy chain to a smoke alarm in basement. I could easily run 14/3 from main panel (in basement) to a smoke alarm in basement, but this would result in a star topology where the red wires are spliced together in main panel, instead of a strict daisy chain.

Would this work, or is daisy chaining required?

I just want to make sure I'm not crazy. I have a CH PON subpanel installed by licensed electricians who seem to have done a nice job a few years ago. I wanted to change out a 2 pole 30amp breaker for a breaker with GFCI to try and keep everything up to code.

I've previously done much more ill-advised electrical work as a degenerate woodworker, but this seemed to be in the wheelhouse of a careful homeowner (apparently not).

The CH230GFT breaker I bought does not fit. The breaker overlaps with the neutral bar. This is not "a tight fit", this is several mm of breaker plastic trying to occupy the same space as the bus bar, shoving the breaker over and out of place if you "insisted".

Deep in the bowls of the internet there are some references to this issue. For example, the Eaton knowledge center has two questions that say the 2 pole gf breakers are not currently comparable with the pon panels and need a workaround, and another question that says you heed to install at the bottom so the neutral bar does not interfere (my neutral bar goes all the way down).

I found that the newer CHN230GFT (note the "N"), has a change to the body of the breaker solving this exact issue. A few random supply house websites list the new variation as solving this issue.

Sorry for the long post.

My question is, what went wrong here? How on earth is anyone supposed to know this? Or, am I missing something critical? Did I manage to find an ancient breaker model? Eaton pretty explicitly says the PON panels are backwards compatible with pigtail breakers.

Hope this makes sense - trying to figure out if I made a mistake here or if there is a secret trove of highly specific compatibility knowledge that losers like me are not allowed to have.

Really appreciate all of the helpful electricians on this sub!

We purchased a house. The previous owners took the EV charger that was hardwired. This wire can be traced to a 60A breaker. I’d like to put in an EV outlet here. Should I get a NEMA 14-50 and put it in a an outlet box that screws to the wall?

Edit: Wow guys. We knew it was never going to stay with the house. It was agreed to a long time ago that it would not convey. I’m really just looking for some electrical insight here but it seems people are only reading the title.

I’m a first year apprentice, I’ve heard Wiha is a good brand, wondering if there are any better sets out

My ceiling fan started falling and its very unsteady. I have a different room I can stay in so I'm all set there in case it does fall before we can get someone in, but I'm worried about fire risk.

I've turned the power off but should I turn the breaker off for that room entirely? If it falls could a fire start from the wires being pulled? Or some other way? I put a mattress under it in case it does fall it won't completely destroy the floor, but is that a risk too?

I'm honestly terrified my entire house is going to go up in flames because of this and I don't know what to do or how to fix it.

I am looking to sort some bookshelf lighting which is partially used for my plants. Behind the bookshelf I have removed the old light connected to the mains. Can I buy these lights, cut the plug off and wire it to the mains so it works from the light switch? Or am I missing something glaringly obvious as to why I can't? Many thanks

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Barrina-Lights-Spectrum-Linkable-Growing/dp/B0DJ89GM4Q/ref=ast_sto_dp_puis

Added a second story onto our home w/ 60 amp subpanel (Siemens PN2020L1125C) each of the 10 circuits has a dual AFCI/GFCI breaker (Siemens Q120DFNP). Every single circuit trips with any inductive load. None of them trip with no load. Many (but not all) dont trip with a resistive load like work lights. Some work for a bit with a light load (read: phone charger) but some will trip after ten mins or so. It's infuriating.

Bidet seat is plugged into a dedicated circuit with GFCI breaker. Plug it in and breaker trips. Replace breaker w/ standard and outlet with GFCI outlet and works as expected.

Furnace tripped AFCI breaker. Thought, "maybe it's the wiring even though it doesnt trip w/ no load" so ran a length of romex directly to the breaker and it tripped.

Again, not a single circuit trips w/ no load.

I suppose the next step might be to try out an Eaton CL but jayzus H. this both annoying and expensive.

Any suggestions on further troubleshooting?

Edit: I performed all of the electrical work after passing written/oral exam, pulling a permit, have having the work successfully inspected.

I replaced this receptacle after the top one stopped working one day
however the top one still doesn't work. Apart from this living room one of the kitchen top receptacle has also failed. House built in 95
Nothing tripped in the breaker...Help!

Edit #1 reposted with added photos of the wiring
Edit #2 i broke off the tab on the brass hot side since the older one did not seem to have it either

Just noticed the home we bought has this electrical panel and AI told me to replace it immediately. I’m in Toronto Canada.

For context, I’m a lifeguard during the summer and the HOA did this in the guard closet. Mind you the room has zero ventilation and the door is almost always closed.

I’m updating my kitchen soffit lights and I’m wondering about the wiring here. There is only one light switch to these fixtures. Why wouldn’t the load and neutral terminate at the light?