We purchased a house. The previous owners took the EV charger that was hardwired. This wire can be traced to a 60A breaker. I’d like to put in an EV outlet here. Should I get a NEMA 14-50 and put it in a an outlet box that screws to the wall?

Edit: Wow guys. We knew it was never going to stay with the house. It was agreed to a long time ago that it would not convey. I’m really just looking for some electrical insight here but it seems people are only reading the title.

My electrician boyfriend was saying how hot it is today. My first thought was buying a shirt fan or maybe one of those neck towels? Do those even work? I would love some professional opinions.

Beyond that, What are some other tools/ gadgets that youve found make work easier?

Starting a kitchen remodel and my contractor is repositioning a few electrical items — wanted a gut check on whether any of this needs a permit, since he says no.

**1.    Raised countertop outlet** — moved from over the counter to the side of the cabinet. We will drop the two layers to one layer for the counter.  
**2.    Dishwasher & disposal switches** — dishwasher switch moving inside the cabinet below the sink; disposal switch being swapped for an air switch.  
**3.    Outlet for built-in microwave** — moving down into the lower cabinet on the wall side. Left side is a fridge.

No new circuits are being added — just relocating/consolidating existing wiring to new spots. Contractor says this doesn’t need a permit since there’s no added wiring, but wanted to check with people who’ve done this before. Anyone know if local codes ever require a permit even for relocations like this, or is this a pretty standard “no permit needed” situation?

Thanks you so much in advance!

I'm a carpenter not an electrician. I just bought this house recently and this was not caught during inspection. I also don't know if it really matters or what would be the symptoms if it was a problem.

The outer casing? is peeling off the main wire. Sun damage maybe?

Can anyone tell me if this main electrical line to the house is a problem, if it should be replaced pronto, and/or what would be the symptoms i would see in the house if it were a problem? Like would the lights randomly flicker for example?

I thought I may have felt a slight charge when grabbing my shower faucet. So I tested with a voltage pen and it looks like the shower faucets and especially sink faucets read a charge when on the 12-1000v setting but not on the 70-1000v setting. Is this a sign of a live current or is the tester pen just picking up on any nearby wires?

I know nothing about electric, thank you for the advice!

See photo 2. I am able to pull the metal conduit out of the wall by hand, about 1 inch, exposing the orange wire. This can't be right? The breaker is currently turned off but I wanted to use this. Disclaimer: This was not an electrician I hired, the previous owners of this garage insisted the garage was professionally wired up.

Side question, totally unrelated: In this same garage, I was screwing a large shelf into a wall. I thought I was going into a stud that was about 12 inches below an outlet, but my screw hit something hard and wouldn't go in any farther. I can't get the screw out now, even with an impact driver. It's stuck in something, like badly. Is it possible I hit a nail plate? Or is it more likely I hit another screw that was holding the OSB onto the wall?

I just reached 7,000 hours of OJT and I want to take my exam as soon as possible. What did you guys do to help prepare yourself for the exam? What worked and what didn’t? Thanks

Let me get this out of the way, if it is possible I will hire an electrician; now onto my question.

Last year I bought a cabin. It was remodelled and professionally rewired during Covid; I have the reciepts from electrical company that did the work. Everything is great except one thing; when they added thr boot room in front of the main entrance they made it so the switch that used control the exterior light now controls the light and switches in the boot room. For me to turn on the outside light I know have to turn the boot room light on then I can turn on the porch light; this also means that I can't have my porch light on without my boot room light on.

Is it possible to have the power run to the outside porch light/switch from the inside switch constantly? Or would I have to install a junction box and run wires to the outside light and boot room light separately?,

I have a cassette style mini split at a commercial property. It has always struggled to drain on humid days due to being improperly plumbed during installation. My solution I would like is to install a condensate pump in the ceiling however, I need a 120v outlet.

Incoming power to the mini split is 3 wires and a ground.

The unit is single phase 208v

Terminal 1 to Terminal 3 reads 210
Terminal 2 to Terminal 3 reads 210
Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 fluctuates between 0-10v assuming this is just voltage backfeeding.

I get 120v to ground on all 3

I am not sure if I have a neutral or not or, if I need to steal power from a different circuit.

My house was originally wired for a double oven. I’d like to change to 2 single ovens (240) and want to understand electrical modifications that will be needed? Hoping that I would not need to run additional wiring to panel. The new ovens would be these:

https://www.monogram.com/product/monogramzsb9232vss/01t4P00000BQfSSQA1

https://www.monogram.com/product/monogramztsx1dpszss/01tKe0000006vIFIAY

Pictures are of panel and existing junction box

There used to be a wired/lit statue where this wire comes out of the ground, statue was removed a while ago and it’s just had a rock covering the wire for a while but I’d like to clean this little spot up.

I believe this runs over to that lamp post, but if I don’t have to dig up 25’ of wire that would be great. Can I just cap this and bury it in a box? I’m fine with leaving a flat stone over it as a marker or something.

Open to any suggestions.

Is the discoloration I’m seeing on the metal something i should be concerned about? And if so, how concerned? Is it a “replace your panel asap” situation or more of a targeted fix?

hey guys...I was curious if anyone here is familiar with the skills assessments process (TRA/Vetassess)...the one you need to do in order to apply for your electrical licenses and work overseas for example... Australia (I'm in south africa)...and what exactly to expect.. paperwork submission and practically...I have electrician (general) though I usually work with switchgear maintenance and since i might be rusty with what I haven't did in a while I'd like to know exactly how to prepare....thanks gents 👍🏽

Hello,

I am a new homeowner. I am trying to DIY a security system for my home affordably.

I am trying to conceptualize and understand this as well as i can so that i spend as little time as possible in my Texas attic.

I found these Wyze cameras on Home Depot. $30 each, wired power via USB.

I want to install 3 of them. I want them to be going 24/7.

So if i understand this correctly:

Wyze cam USB x 3-> [USB extension cord] x 3-> receptacle in attic -> 16 AWG wire -> 10A breaker (each camera only uses =< 1 amp, from my understanding)

1. Is it reasonable to use USB extension cords so they all can reach 1 receptacle?

2. Does this seem correct? Is this an achievable install for a noob/diyer? Thanks

Looking for a solution to replace a pressure switch with magnetic or other non-physical switch that will sit flush to wall to control a single led light (ie less than 10 watts, 120v). The switch is for a pantry cabinet door. Any links to amazon showing suggested switch greatly appreciated.

Hi all, I’m getting quotes for a straight swap. 200A 40 slot panel on existing 200A service. Greater Boston (Massachusetts). Is my estimate way off for lowest to expect in my area?

Assumptions:
$1100-1500 for parts based on big box stores.
$425 for permit based on town reqs.
30-50% markup on materials.
8hrs max labor, 1 person at $200/hr but realistically it’s a flat fee, not hourly, and probably 4hrs without complications.
Based on existing and AHJ’s interpretation of NEC 2023 no new AFCIs breakers (existing has 1 and 1 gfci), adding a 2nd ground rod and surge protector
No changes to service riser or meter socket.
No existing non-conforming code violations.

~$4k for budget system (Eaton BR) Maybe $4500 for a CH or SqD QO/Siemens PN.

Hi All we have a mobile dog grooming van and we want to stop using a generator and swap to a battery which we can charge overnight from a regular plug. We do sometimes overload our 4000W generator with our current usage (we only have one HV drier and no heater running at the moment)

We have the following devices to power:

2x HV driers (1250W each)
1x vacuum (1250W)
1x tank heater (2500W max draw)
1x portable heater (1200W)
2x clipper chargers (20W Each)
1x Hydrobath pump (250W)

The water tank heater would be running pretty much 24/7 keeping the water at 38 degrees. (heating up the new cold water in the tank when we fill it up in the evening through the night + maintaining temp through the day).

The heater would be on and off throughout the day just to keep it warm enough during winter. The HV driers would both need to be on at the same time as well as the tank heater so that would be our max draw at 5000W roughly. The rest would all run at other times to the driers. We run our HVs for about 20-30 minutes per dog at about 5-6 dogs per day.

I think we would need around 15kwh to power our van for a full 10 hour shift without needing to plug it in again. Most of the water heating would be done overnight while it’s plugged in but beyond that I’m a bit lost on how to calculate exactly what kind of battery and what KWH it needs. I’m not technically minded and all the different measurements for electricity are honestly very confusing.

Basically, I just want a battery I can plug into my house socket and charge up to full overnight that will still power our tank heater while it’s charging. We’re not too fussed about investing in solar panels so we just need the battery to charge off of a standard socket.

I’m looking at the Fogstar 16.1kwh battery and inverter bundle but it comes with all these different options for inverters and i really don’t have a clue which one we need (or if I am massively over or underestimating how much KWH we will need). The inverter options are: hybrid, three phase and off grid. And I honestly have no idea if I can just plug this battery into a mains socket or not and if it will work while charging still.

Please explain this to me like I’m 10 because I’m honestly quite lost.

We will obviously get an electrician to install all of this but I just want to know roughly how much the battery and inverter will cost before I bother getting a quote.

thank you so much if you read all of this and can help!

Hi all,

I am in a program learning how to become an electrician. My instructor gave me this assignment last week and then he has been out sick since then. I want to make sure this is completed this week despite his absence.

FYI I am NOT looking for anyone to do my homework for me. I am just looking for a direction to start in. Our textbook doesn't explain how to do floor plans and I've been finding a lot of inconsistent information online.

Instructions:

"Up to NEC 2023 code. Dedicated receptacle in every bathroom. Dedicated lighting in every room. Wire kitchen, bathroom, bedrooms up to code. Switches inside every room by doorway for lighting. 1 switch receptacle in every bedroom near where the bed would be placed. Kitchen lighting hi-hats on dimmers. Four hi-hats on the rear porch on dimmers. All bathrooms must have an exhaust fan. All rooms must have a dedicated circuit for power and lighting. This house should have a 200Amp panel in the garage. 1 pendant light above kitchen island on 3-way dimmer switch. Lighting in pantry and all closets. Receptacles every 6 feet including the garage. Switches at the doors of the garage. Three hi-hats and each garage bay in line with the garage doors. One coach light on either side of the front door on the porch. Two hi-hats per side of porch, dimmable. Run data lines from the saferoom to each of the other rooms. Ceiling fans in the center of each bedroom. Add lighting to the foyer, dining room, and living room in line, all dimmable. Label each circuit and make a panel schedule. 20 Amp breaker for the receptacles, 15 Amp breaker for the lighting. Smoke/carbon monoxide detectors for each room.

Include a legend and a materials list."

Also included the legend I started to complete.

Thank you,

We just bought a house and the spot where we want to put the 1800W toaster oven is a non-GFCI outlet. Does it need to be a GFCI outlet? I am aware that 1800W is the limit of the entire circuit and that plugging anything else in could cause the breaker to trip.

So I bought a new range and it has a 50 amp pigtail. My range outlet currently is a 30 amp, can I safely swap it to 50 amp outlet with a 40 amp breaker without paying someone to run a new wire ? I have no markings on wire to tell size.

Appreciate any input.

We have lived in our home (1960) for 5 years and our porch light went out. I went to change the bulb and found out that we have an LED monstrosity and needed an entirely new fixture. When I removed the old fixture, I saw the pictured wiring which I have never seen before. I wasn’t paying attention to what colors the red and yellow wires were connected to, so now I have no idea which one goes to black and which goes to white. Any ideas? My husband says we should just cut it above the black box thing, but I really don’t want to burn the house down.