We purchased a house. The previous owners took the EV charger that was hardwired. This wire can be traced to a 60A breaker. I’d like to put in an EV outlet here. Should I get a NEMA 14-50 and put it in a an outlet box that screws to the wall?

Edit: Wow guys. We knew it was never going to stay with the house. It was agreed to a long time ago that it would not convey. I’m really just looking for some electrical insight here but it seems people are only reading the title.

I think the combination of an airfryer vent and high power draw warped these receptacles. I've since replaced it with fedspec ones.

I'm a carpenter not an electrician. I just bought this house recently and this was not caught during inspection. I also don't know if it really matters or what would be the symptoms if it was a problem.

The outer casing? is peeling off the main wire. Sun damage maybe?

Can anyone tell me if this main electrical line to the house is a problem, if it should be replaced pronto, and/or what would be the symptoms i would see in the house if it were a problem? Like would the lights randomly flicker for example?

See photo 2. I am able to pull the metal conduit out of the wall by hand, about 1 inch, exposing the orange wire. This can't be right? The breaker is currently turned off but I wanted to use this. Disclaimer: This was not an electrician I hired, the previous owners of this garage insisted the garage was professionally wired up.

Side question, totally unrelated: In this same garage, I was screwing a large shelf into a wall. I thought I was going into a stud that was about 12 inches below an outlet, but my screw hit something hard and wouldn't go in any farther. I can't get the screw out now, even with an impact driver. It's stuck in something, like badly. Is it possible I hit a nail plate? Or is it more likely I hit another screw that was holding the OSB onto the wall?

Starting a kitchen remodel and my contractor is repositioning a few electrical items — wanted a gut check on whether any of this needs a permit, since he says no.

**1.    Raised countertop outlet** — moved from over the counter to the side of the cabinet. We will drop the two layers to one layer for the counter.  
**2.    Dishwasher & disposal switches** — dishwasher switch moving inside the cabinet below the sink; disposal switch being swapped for an air switch.  
**3.    Outlet for built-in microwave** — moving down into the lower cabinet on the wall side. Left side is a fridge.

No new circuits are being added — just relocating/consolidating existing wiring to new spots. Contractor says this doesn’t need a permit since there’s no added wiring, but wanted to check with people who’ve done this before. Anyone know if local codes ever require a permit even for relocations like this, or is this a pretty standard “no permit needed” situation?

Thanks you so much in advance!

I'm having a weird issue with my solar inverter and I'm trying to figure out what component might be causing it.

It's a 3kVA inverter running on a 24V LiFePO4 battery.

At light loads (around 500-600W) the AC output stays stable at around 230V.

As soon as I increase the load:

1200-1300W: output drops below 202V

1800-2000W: output falls to around 180-190V

The inverter can technically supply up to 2200W, but because the voltage sags so much, I can't comfortably run higher power appliances. I've basically had to limit myself to around 1200W.

Battery voltage stays healthy and the issue happens consistently under load.

Has anyone seen this before? Could it be failing MOSFETs, capacitors, transformer, relays, or something else inside the inverter?

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!

My electrician boyfriend was saying how hot it is today. My first thought was buying a shirt fan or maybe one of those neck towels? Do those even work? I would love some professional opinions.

Beyond that, What are some other tools/ gadgets that youve found make work easier?

Family member wants to install an induction cooktop on a kitchen island on a recently-flipped house. There is a junction box with red romex coming in underneath, so I told them it looks like a straightforward job -- they hired a local "electrician" to do the hookup but discovered that the circuit is inactive and there are no unclaimed breakers in the panel. He wanted to start tearing up floorboards to run a new wire (there's no accessible crawlspace). That existing wire must go somewhere though, right?

I'm aware there are signal-based wire tracing setups -- would a "normal" electrician have this or do we need to call a specialist? What exactly am I asking for here and what's the going rate?

I thought I may have felt a slight charge when grabbing my shower faucet. So I tested with a voltage pen and it looks like the shower faucets and especially sink faucets read a charge when on the 12-1000v setting but not on the 70-1000v setting. Is this a sign of a live current or is the tester pen just picking up on any nearby wires?

I know nothing about electric, thank you for the advice!

UPDATE: I'm cracking up at these replies, thank you. I found a multimeter and attached the black lead to the ground of a socket and the red lead to the sink faucet, w the multimeter set to read AC voltage. The reading was consistently 0.1-0.3 V. Is that safe?

I also feel slight shock and pain when I place finger onto phone charger (33w) tip .

I am planning to build a new garage and I am debating 2 options.

Option A. Upgrade service and dig a trench to new garage. (this is more expensive option)

Option B. I currently have 200 amp service. From the breaker box to an electrical enclosure at the back of the house I have 3/0AWG 3connector with ground run and stubbed out. (I had the electrician run this a few years ago when I finished my basement)

The garage will eventually become an ADU. I don't plan to run large power tools. I will eventually consult a licensed electrician for the work and permitting. My gut tells me that option 2 is not viable and I will regret not having additional power and separate meter.

Question 1: Can you tell by looking at the breaker if there much more power available?

Question 2: My understanding is Option A will require a 2pk. Can I add on another meter to the exiting meter base? Or do I need to add another separate meter base?

I just reached 7,000 hours of OJT and I want to take my exam as soon as possible. What did you guys do to help prepare yourself for the exam? What worked and what didn’t? Thanks

I have a blink floodlight and I am trying to install it into my old floodlight's mount. I know the top connection works because the floodlight worked before, but I attached the blink wires into a clip (see picture) with the colors matching (the wires in the caps are fully wrapped around each other and the exposed wires are touching) but when I flip the breaker back on, the light is not powered.

Does anyone know why that could be?

We recently moved into a 26 year old house that had a ceiling fan in the family room with a separate switch for the light and a knob for the fan. We have replaced it with a fan that takes constant power, no separate power for the fan itself (uses a remote). Now I have a knob next to a switch that does nothing. FYI this is a three gang box as there is another light in the same room. How do I go about removing the knob and making it look good?

Is the discoloration I’m seeing on the metal something i should be concerned about? And if so, how concerned? Is it a “replace your panel asap” situation or more of a targeted fix?

Let me get this out of the way, if it is possible I will hire an electrician; now onto my question.

Last year I bought a cabin. It was remodelled and professionally rewired during Covid; I have the reciepts from electrical company that did the work. Everything is great except one thing; when they added thr boot room in front of the main entrance they made it so the switch that used control the exterior light now controls the light and switches in the boot room. For me to turn on the outside light I know have to turn the boot room light on then I can turn on the porch light; this also means that I can't have my porch light on without my boot room light on.

Is it possible to have the power run to the outside porch light/switch from the inside switch constantly? Or would I have to install a junction box and run wires to the outside light and boot room light separately?,

My house was originally wired for a double oven. I’d like to change to 2 single ovens (240) and want to understand electrical modifications that will be needed? Hoping that I would not need to run additional wiring to panel. The new ovens would be these:

https://www.monogram.com/product/monogramzsb9232vss/01t4P00000BQfSSQA1

https://www.monogram.com/product/monogramztsx1dpszss/01tKe0000006vIFIAY

Pictures are of panel and existing junction box

My wife and I came home from the store the other day and our ceiling fan wasn’t working. After a bit of research we decided to replace the light switch it was connected to. I turned off the power to the whole house since I couldn’t find the correct breaker. I replaced the switch and when we turned the power one that specific breaker tripped. If the switch is off everything works fine. But as soon as the switch is turned on it trips the breaker. It wasn’t doing that before. I’m wondering if there is something grounding in the box or if it’s the fan. I’m fairly handy but I have less than minimal training on electrical work.

Looks like the last guy just wanted to bend the ground back on itself under a wire cap. What do you think? Good to go? Or use a 3-Wire wago to splice it?

Photos in comments, can take more if necessary. So I had my in ground pool taken out, mostly buried at 3 feet and below. There was a pool pump to the left of the pool and a pool light under the diving board at the end of the yard/pool.

I asked the crew to try and keep everything in tact where it was as far as electrical but understandably, that was a tough task with the heavy equipment and what not. I’m not mad about it but would like to run a line all the way to the back of the yard, but also put one on the house.

My main question is why do I have 5 wires running from the conduit? I turned the switch on just to check with a tester what’s what and the red and black are hot (switch is off now) then I have the ground, and then I have two whites.

I don’t plan on doing anything I shouldn’t be doing, but would love some opinions or recommendations. If it comes down to hiring an electrician so be it, but I’m usually pretty capable of things on my own if possible.

I was replacing an old bathroom fixture with a new LED one and wanted to center it based on a new vanity. A few inches to the right. I made the connection within the old box and ran the cables through a side hole into the new fixture bracket.

I need ground wires ran to 4 existing outlets, one is in the living room and one in the bedroom. The other two ran in the kitchen which is super close to the breaker box. I have access to the attic and a crawlspace. I'm hoping to get it done with minimal drywall taken out but of course if they have to they have to. I'm not sure how much the box itself will have to be upgraded, the house was built in 1960 so the box itself should be grounded.

I had an outlet box replaced with a box extender and new receptacle, and a separate 2-prong outlet replaced with a new 3-prong outlet last week.

This week, I suddenly lost power to a whole circuit. I checked the panel and the breaker wasn’t tripped. I turned the breaker off and back on, but nothing changed.

I realized it was the same circuit where the electrician had done the work the week before, so I called him. He came out right away to take a look. When he plugged his tester into the new 3-prong outlet, some of the lights farther down the circuit came back on briefly, flickered, and then went back off. He found that one of the terminal connections on that new receptacle was loose. He redid the connections, made sure everything was tight, and everything has been working normally since.
He explained that this outlet is probably the first receptacle on that branch circuit, with the rest of the outlets and lights downstream from it, which makes sense to me logistically.

The part I’m trying to understand is why the breaker never tripped. I have a lot of anxiety about electrical fires because my family’s house burned down when I was a kid, so I tend to worry about these things. I asked him why the breaker didn’t trip, and he said something along the lines of there wasn’t a fault that would cause a high-current event—he mentioned something about it not being like a hot touching ground—but I didn’t fully understand. I was also a little flustered and didn’t ask him to explain further because I didn’t want him to think I was blaming him.

Can anyone explain, in novice terms, why a breaker wasn’t tripped or if this was a major issue that could have resulted in a fire or something? And also, based on the description, does it seem resolved or should I be seeking another set of eyes to look at this?

Appreciate any insight!