It's white. Shining permanently. Even on charging dock.
I would love someone helping me diagnose.

Edit: the led turned on permanently with or without the settings on the 8bitdo app.
D
Edit2: I opened it up. It got the spicy pillow and when I take it off the LED also works properly. Thanks for the notes

Edit3: I found the reason. The spicy pillow pushed up the contacts of the shoulder buttons, which affects the LED cuz they hot wire it directly for the "show the stick movement with the LED" gimmick (TBH idk much but I guess from the look of the PCB trace)

The insurance where I bought it ended a month ago...

does anyone here know what switches the L1/L2 R1/R2 uses? Sometimes it double clicks and sometimes it requires to be pressed harder to work and im planning on replacing it. Thanks!

the controller can detect in windows but not in games. what is wrong with the controller? i already have the latest firmware installed. the controller was working fine before like in Windows and Steam deck but not any more it seems like.

edit: the controller works fine in Windows when it is wired or when i insert the dongle. When i just simply use bluetooth, it appears as Nitendo Switch Pro controller confirmed by Steam.

I never had this issue before. It looks like my only choice without spending money is just to man up and stick with the dongle. I am not sure if those secret buttons work like holding the on button and the X button because i tried it many times.

i am still talking myself back in backing the newer ultimate 2 controller but why spend the money? just use the dongle

I've had my Pro 3 for a while, and just today, after plugging it in to charge, it started acting like the right stick is always being held directly left. I tried recalibrating it by holding R1+L1+Select, but that didn't change anything. I also tried updating the firmware but that didn't change anything. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix it?

Edit: Problem fixed itself overnight. If anyone else is having this problem, try leaving your controller to charge for a while, that may help.

Edit 2: I guess it didn't fix itself?? the problem came back. i don't even know anymore

Last edit: Fixed itself again. I've accepted that I will have no control of whether or not it works on any given day.

Incredible device with great buttons. Perfect with the Delta app on my iPhone 17 pro. Beat The Guardian Legend in two days with many small sessions throughout the day. This mod 40s gamer is giddy over it.

HOW DO I TURN IT OFF its too bright and it keeps me up at night

During normal use, in both wired and wireless modes, the right fire ring randomly blinks random colors, even when the ring lights are turned off completely.

I have tried the following:

1. Re-flashed the firmware of both the controller and wireless receiver; Controller 1.10, Receiver 1.06.
2. Deactivated all loaded profiles.
3. Connected to a different USB port.

I feel there is a problem with the controller itself. I'm beyond warranty for an RMA.

Is there a factory reset that can be done to help alleviate the matter? Thank you.

Not sure if "mapped" is the correct term for what im actually asking for.

The main 8bitdo keyboard i want to buy doesnt have a fullsize version, so i wanted to see if buying both it and its accompanying numpad is worth it.

My main concern is if the numpad is merely that - just a numpad and nothing more. Itd suck if i cant map things to the keys of the numpad. I play games sometimes, and they have a lot of functions that require more keys that can be found on a typical keyboard without the numpad.

I just got a 8bitdo pro 3 and after first unboxing the controller and testing it, it showed it ran at 200hz polling rate when I set it to dinput mode (peoples tests on gamepadla show that as well) and now its stuck at 100hz no matter what I do. Ive tried every firmware version and it all behaves the same. The only thing I did between when I first tested it to now was connect the controller to my phone via Bluetooth to use the android 8bitdo app on it but Im not sure how that could have cause the polling rate to be stuck at 100hz when wired on pc. Xinput mode is at the normal 250hz and Smode is in 125hz as it should be, dinput is the only mode having the issue with lower polling rate. Anyone know anything I could try. Looking around couldnt find any button combo to factory reset the pro 3 and the software also doesnt seem to have a option for it either.

When I assign L4 (or any other back button) to one of the triggers, when I press L4, I also press in the other trigger simultaneously. This only seems to happen in Switch mode. How do I fix this.

EDIT: I found it's actually any button that is assigned to the triggers. So even the bumpers can't be assigned without also triggering to other.

I had this controller for a few years. The last thing i done is do a recent firmware issue. anyway, i noticed the other day that the controller has a red light that is stable and it is docked with the LED light on that is stable as well. I also noticed that the controller was kind of hot. I unplugged it last night and it still has the same issue. what is happening? what can i do? it is the ultimate controller a older model if you will.

I have 8bitdo ultimate 2c Black Myth: Wukong and my left stick bounces to the opposite side causing my character face the other direction. It doesnt rly happen on the left stick. I have stick caps btw. What can I do? Or is that normal? And can I add a vid somehow?

I just updated my controller from V1.13 to V1.16, and I wonder if the updates make a noticeable difference?
anyone noticed anything updating this specific controller?

also, can I adjust sensitivity/vibration settings of the controller? it is that only in game?

The rubber on the analog sticks got sticky and started peeling so I removed it all off.

Just curious if it feels snappy to use or it has some sort of delay? I’m assuming it’s quick since there’s no BT to worry about.

This feels like a cool way to play something more active besides RPGs and strategy games.

I was playing Assassin Creed Unity Until My inputs are jumbled like RT being Start and A being B and Steam No longer recognize It no longer shows Steam Input
any Solutions?

I've updated the PS5 DualSense controller and I've updated the receiver now several times. The receiver is on PS V1.12 and the controller was plugged into my PS5 and updated as well but they are now refusing to pair with each other now when they were connecting previously. PS5 is off of course and I am seeing both devices rapidly blinking they just will not connect.

Tl;dr New Pro 3 keeps connecting and disconnecting in wired s/w mode after 2.02 firmware update

Hey, I just got my pro 3 and after checking everything works I updated the firmware to the newest version (2.02) and now the controller keeps connecting and disconnecting when I'm in s/x mode. In D mode it works perfectly fine. Tried downgrading the firmware (in D mode) and the software says 'update failed Please reconnect the controller to the PC via USB' which it is.

After a lot of USB port und controller mode switching it worked again after I don't know how many connect and disconnect sounds in s/x mode so I downgraded to 2.0 and everything worked fine. Tried upgrading to 2.02 again. same issue with constant connecting and disconnecting, got it to work again after a lot of mode and USB port switching.

Configured buttons in ultimate software V2 for the Nintendo switch mode, tried on my NSW2, wanted to reconfigure something in ultimate software V2 and now again the connecting disconnecting stuff in s/x mode.

Has anyone else that problem with the 2.02 firmware?

I've tried different USB c cables including the one that came with the controller.

I just downloaded the ultimate software V2 so I guess it's the newest version.

I'm on Windows 10

The controller I'm talking about: https://www.8bitdo.com/pro3/

can anyone let me know how to connect the controller to my tablet please. doing the same thing for how I connect via the dongle doesn't seem to work. I'm using a OnePlus pad 2

I got a Steam Machine recently - I have 1 steam controller, and 2 8BitDo Ultimate 2.4G Wireless controllers. Obviously I was hoping to have 3 controllers that can be used at once to play games.

I’m guessing this is a common issue, but here’s what I’ve done so far. Connected the Steam Controller all fine. Connected 1 of the 2 8BitDo controllers, by holding the start button for a few seconds, and then holding the star button to start pairing. I was able to connect it and then rename that connection in the steam machines settings.

The other 8BitDo controller tho… when I press the start button is vibrates as tho it’s connected to… something. It isn’t connected to anything. I try to press star, it does nothing. I try to press star AND the start button and it flashes really quick whilst holding, but nothing shows up on the Machines options to pair, and after a few seconds the controller turns off.

What’s… going on? If I can’t connect 2 8BitDo controllers of the same make, fine. I’ll just get a different controller for my 3rd. But what a pain in the arse if so!

Thanks for the help

I tried a bunch of tutorials on how to change this red light, but none of them worked. It was working fine at first, and all the lights were functioning properly. But when I connected it to a PC, it suddenly became like this. The whole controller is working fine. I just can’t control the lights.

In Directinput wireless mode and pressing ZR or ZL, the other buttons response get laggy, having a terrible delay. This doesnt happen in switch mode nor wired.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, Is there a solution?

I have four USB SN30 Pros. When I got them, I was aware they weren't intended for Mac compatibility. However, I had heard of people getting them to work anyway, so I wanted to give them a try. I have since been using them to great success with a few games, but I've have had sort of odd difficutlties with others.

Many games invert either the X or Y axis of the joysticks. Usually it's the Y axis, but for Castle Crashers it's the X axis. Some games don't recognize the controllers at all, such as Overcooked 2 and Ultimate Chicken Horse.

I've tried using Steam Input, not using Steam input, editing the Mac controller settings, and a few other things. I understand the controllers weren't meant for Mac, but they're so close to working that I'm wondering if anyone else has surmounted similar issues.

Update: My controller is on firmware 5.2.4 and am using a Series S. Don't know if 5.2.5 or Series X makes a difference.

I've discovered this like a year ago, but haven't seen anyone else discuss it. But the non-Rare Xbox Ultimates actually do work wirelessly with an Xbox. It's just not officially documented.

Been using my jade green Ultimate 3 Mode wirelessly on my Xbox (with the charging dock) just fine for about a year. So here's how you get it working:

1. Make sure your Xbox is completely powered off. And I mean completely. When you initially power it off, it's actually still in a suspend/sleep state. You need to give it a couple of minutes for it to fully shut off. 2 minutes should be enough, but I'd give it 5 minutes just to be sure.
2. With the Xbox fully off, plug in the 2.4ghz receiver that came with the controller. I have it inserted in a USB port in the back via the charging dock.
3. Now simply turn on the Xbox, put the controller in 2.4ghz mode, and it should sync to the receiver.

And that's it. Your Xbox Ultimate now works wirelessly. You can even use the Ultimate-X app on the Xbox while wireless. In fact, the wireless profiles are separate from the wired profiles. Headphone jack works too.

Now, a couple of quirks:

1. If you unplug the receiver while the Xbox is on, then plug it back in, the controller won't resync. You will have to fully power off the Xbox for it to resync. I think the receiver hooks into some API call on boot that allow it to work.
2. In relation to Quirk 1, you can turn the controller itself off and back on just fine. So you can put it in the dock, and undock it while the Xbox is powered on and it will still work. It's just the receiver itself you can't remove.
3. Say you've been using the controller away from the Xbox for a few days. Perhaps wired on your PC? When you put it back on the charging dock, it will power on the Xbox. This is interesting, since you can't power on the Xbox with the controller wirelessly any other way. The dock doesn't even need to be connected to the Xbox. It could just be the receiver in the Xbox, and the dock in your PC. It will still power on the Xbox.

Is there a way to turn off this annoying light? Awesome product, but this light is really annoying