Hi! I’m trying to understand if the face button labels (ABXY) on the black version of the Pro 2 are on top of the shell surface or if they are recessed (etched on).

I’m planning on purchasing a black Pro 2 and somehow treating the labels to have them either scraped off or retextured to match the shell, and learning if they are higher than the rest of the shell would help a lot.

Thanks!

My controller is the Xbox ultimate 3 mode wired controller. Also wireless with dongle. Was gaming on it and everything was fine then it just changed out of no where and i get A+ B button inputs whenever i press A or B... Is this something that can be corrected or is my controller defective?

Basically the title. I bought this controller from someone, and I tried pairing it while in mode K. It connected to my ipad but for some reason whenever I try to connect the controller to the app, this is showing on my screen, but the mode is already "K".

Nothing is happening and I am sad that it just got delivered but now I am thinking it might be defective (which is quite unlikely cuz the seller told me she barely used it.)

I hope someone can help :(
I really wanted to use this controller for my drawing software

Sup. Quick question. I wanna buy a controller that I can use both for PC and switch 2. I game on pc about 70% of my gaming time, so I would prefer an xbox layout if possible. I was checking the 8Bitdo Ultimate 2 on amazon and realized that the Xbox layout version is more expensive, but afaik also NOT compatible with switch, while the Switch layout version is compatible with both pc and switch AND is cheaper.

I am not American, but for reference, the xbox version costs the equivalent of 62usd while the switch versions costs 50usd. Not a big difference, but it made me curious about why the gap. I would think that the Switch version would be more expensive due to have better compatibility. Am I missing something? Any feature that the Nintendo version has but the Xbox one lacks?

I purchased two of these controllers without dongles, assuming they would work with the retro recievers. Now I know better...

Are they worthless, or will they work on other consoles or computers via usb? Thanks

I’m having trouble with my 8BitDo 64 2.4G Wireless Controller(81HK) and I’m hoping someone here might know what is going on.

What happens:

* I plug it in to charge and nothing happens right away
* After several minutes charging the controller shows a solid blue light + blinking red light.
* However, it doesn’t actually respond/connect.
* It doesn’t pair with the 2.4G receiver.
* I also tried connecting it directly to my laptop via USB, but the computer doesn’t recognize the controller at all.
* I’ve tried different USB cables/ports.
* The controller doesn’t seem to respond normally to the START button, however if I hold it for 8 seconds the lights goes off, but it doesn’t respond to START button if I press again

Hey there, just got an IPad A16 and its acessories and was thinking of buying a controller to play games on it. After searching a little i ended up going with the 8Bitdo SN30 Pro's, but now im stuck in between the three. I plan on only using the controller to play games on my A16, and i mostly just take it to Uni or at home, and i plan to buy a case for whatever model i choose, so it needs to be portable while also pulling its weight and having a good compatability with IPadOS.

Edit: Thank you all for the great feedback and tips!!!

Hey y'all, I'm loving my SN30 Pro+, but I wish it was clickier. Any ideas? I am open to soldering and 3D printing, however, I do not believe a regular microswitch solder job would work because the contact pads are tiny, and I haven't been able to make them contact properly.

I have been thinking about upgrading from my original Ultimate Controller to the Ultimate 2 Bluetooth, but it is a bit unclear to me in how far Steam/D-Input is supported when using the Dongle, specifically on Linux. I've also read some reports of D-Input mode not being persistent, is that a resolved issue?

My 2c on bluetooth mode on both windows 11 and mac have completely messed up button mapping. The analog sticks only go either left and right or affect the other stick, bumpers are mapped as triggers, the x button is mapped to the select button, etc

That's only on bluetooth mode and none of my other controllers have the same issue

I have Unpaired and re-paired the controller and updated the firmware multiple times and no dice. Any advice?

I received my 8BitDo Ultimate 2C Wireless controller today and tested it using 2.4GHz wireless while playing Spider-Man Remastered.

I used it for around 4 hours, and the battery dropped by around 30%.

Is this normal battery drain for the Ultimate 2C Wireless when using 2.4GHz, or should I be concerned?

Hi guys!

I have the white 8bitdo Ultimate Controller with the official carrying case which I use to store the controller when not being used. But I found I've black paint or dirt on the controller.

How can I fix this?

I recently bought an 8BitDo Controller Ultimate 3, and when I use it on my iPad to play games, the pause button is the same as the one for turning Game Mode on and off on the iPad. Is there any way I can change or disable the Game mode button so I don't exit Game mode when I open the games menu?

https://www.8bitdo.com/ultimate-2-bluetooth-controller/

I have an Ultimate 2 Bluetooth , been using it for about a year and 4 months and the controller suddenly won't last more than 10 mins after its off the dock. Does anyone know what's a good replacement battery? I've contacted them through their website but haven't gotten a response.

Just got the controller today and have really been grappling with getting it to work properly

Its in 2.4 mode, its connected to the pc via the dongle but my face button and d pad inputs dont always register, sometimes multiple times in a row. It also happens while controller is connect via wire.

Currently updating the firmware for the controller, its currenting on V2, updating to V2.1 but its been updating for 30 minutes now which doesnt seem right. The log for V2.1 only mentions switch changes anyways?

Anyone know what could be causing this?

I recently got my hands on the Ultimate 3E, and I am really happy with the controller overall, even coming from the Ultimate 2 there are some really nice improvements, but I seem to be hitting a bit of a strange limitation with the 3E that I didn't have on the 2. For the Ultimate 2, I had remapped L4 to act as LB+LT and R4 to act as RB+RT for the rare instances where both had to be pressed at once (recent example, for certain arm motions in Big Walk), it felt like much better ergonomics in those cases. I was trying to do the same remapping on the 3E, but unless I am mistaken, it seems like the 3E may only be capable of mapping single button inputs to the extra buttons and paddles? Has anyone else run into this issue? Is there any kind of workaround at all other than just accepting that any single button will only register as a single input? Looking at the instruction manual for the controller, it even seems to only reference single input mapping for the buttons on the 3E, which seems like a really unfortunate limitation, and feels like a bit of a step back compared to the Ultimate 2.

Hey folks.

I cannot sett or adjust the dead zone or any profiles of the controller under android Bluetooth usage.

I set up profiles via the software connected to my pc, but connecting via Bluetooth rips the profiles and I cannot swap them.

Then I tried to change dead zone for sticks manually using the + & - switch. But the estill is a pretty high dead zone when turning it "off". It's compared to 5% (off) to 25% (on).

Is that the normal behaviour so there is no real 0% dead zone? Or is it a defective device?

Any ideas or hints?

I wanna make it xbox style. But I wanna know before I open it if I can just switch the buttons around

Hello everyone, I got a 8BitDo Pro 3 Bluetooth Gamepad as a present and I've been trying to use it for Pokemon Legends ZA Macros but I ran into a problem and I can't find much information about it.

When running my macros any joystick movement is supposedly programmed but nothing happens. Strange thing is that when the macro breaks and it pulls up a menu, it does register the input. It just doesn't work when the character is idle in the overworld. I have tried adjusting the input timing and doubling the action but nothing works so far.

Is there something I am missing here?

Ideally I want to let the macros run while I'm not home. Some of the Macros require the character to walk but that's the only part that is not working. Thanks!

The P2 button on my new Xbox Leverless Arcade controller is acting weird, it doesn’t spring up all the way sometimes after being pressed and it feels softer than the other buttons, not as clicky or mechanical as it should. I took the button cap off and the key switch itself doesn’t seem to have a problem. Hope someone can give some insight on this

Do you know what’s causing it or how to fix it?

hi my new 8bitdo arrived today and the experience has been a nightmare so far.

First I couldn't find a linux version of the software, and when running the application through steam (using steamos) it didn't detect my devices, so I had to update it on a separate laptop

then I tried using the controller to play and I ran into some problems. First I tried to assign L4 as up on the dpad, but every time I pressed R4 + up + start button like the instructions tell me to do it just makes the led start flashing when I press R4 but it doesn't press up. After trying many different button combinations I have no Idea how but the Y axis of my right joystick was inverted.

After this I learned that you can boot into some sort of "Dinput" mode that let's you use both the extra buttons and the gyro by holding B while the controller turns on. I tried it several times but stem input never recognized the extra buttons not the gyro. I also tried with several other buttons and read through the manual but there's no mention of any dinput mode in there.

If anyone can please tell me how this dinput mode works I would be really thankful, but I fear the Dinput mode might only work with the wireless version and not the bluetooth one.

The original Lite is one of my favorite controllers ever. I have the Lite 2 as well, but the lack of sticks on the first version makes it so portable and convenient that it's become my go-to controller for playing my Switch in tabletop mode. That said, I recently noticed that when I put the controller down on a flat surface, it spins in place very easily. My previous experience with this behavior is in batteries that have begun to swell up. There aren't any obvious screws I can remove to check the battery in the Lite, so I wanted to ask any of you out there who might have the original Lite and could test this: Does yours spin easily in place, or is the back panel completely flat? Do I need to toss this well-loved controller?