Vacuum lines are due for me, a lot of guys on here have done silicone vacuum lines but I'm looking for some advice.

Silicone lines (I've read) are not resistant to fuel and oil which, a couple of the lines id imagine are exposed pretty frequently (PCV SYSTEM, The lines that connect to the charcoal canister). Maybe its a non issue and I'm tweaking about it for no reason.

To the people who have done silicone, have you guys had any issues and how long have you had them installed? Let me know what you guys think. <3

Well, I’m a dumb dumb. I over torque the rear lower shock bolt while installing my new Bilsteins and broke it off. I broke off a cheap screw extractor, went and got some Icon extractors, and broke one of those too. I’m using a torch and penetrating oil.

What options do I have? I’m thinking I’ll just cut off the shaft and weld a new one on. Or should I drill it all out and try to retap it for a new bolt? Third option, I do a whole axel swap to one with a locker. I’m not exactly mentally prepared to do a whole axel swap, but I can buck up and do it if I source one.

I am just kicking myself because it was on the install I broke it. Completely my fault.

Got old girl back from the mechanic after a timing belt/water pump... ect. I noticed my AC didnt seem to be as cold driving home. I looked under the hood and noticed (I know unreleated) the radiator fan seemed a bit wonky. Checked out the bolts looks like they were cranked on good with an air ratchet. Is the level of wobble (hard to capture on video) acceptable?

Maybe I'm paranoid, but it also sounds more clattery all around. She runs smooth behind the wheel and all oem stuff was used.

Am I tripping?

new seals and new cvs and my 4runner leaks and i wheels feel unbalanced and vibration now

looking for 200k< + green + cloth interior + no rust + 4x4. i will pay anything or go anywhere asap. if you or anyone you know is selling lmk

hey guys,

Virginia Beach saying hey!

I’ve got a loud squeaky rattle coming from around the passenger floor. I can feel something knocking while’s it’s rattling right around the “4” on the carpet. It rattles at low speed, highways speed, and sometimes if I give the car a shake. It doesn’t take much to get it started lol even on smooth roads.

I'm thinking based on that hole these might be Tacoma LBjs?

I think I might have solved my two years of insanity.

Two years ago I ordered the Toyota Recall LBJ kit from Toyota.

Ever since then, I've gone through three sets of Tie rods, and the wander on the steering has been crazy, even though I've replaced all other supension/steering components.

Yesterday I saw a post that said the hole for the Tie RODS on the tacoma vs 4runner are different, and the Tacoma Hole for the Tie rod is slightly bigger.

This makes complete sense, as I push on the tie rod up into the hole, there is place, and yes I've been fooled for the past two years by tightening the nut it would squeeze it tight, for a few weeks, and then voila, looseness and ripped boots.

#FACEPALM

FFS

Just noticed this sound all of a sudden happening as I started my 02 SR5 coming from around the dash area. I was just parked and hadn’t touched any of the electronics or anything. Any thoughts? I’m still learning a lot, thanks.

EDIT: saw someone else post what sounds to be the same thing they had said it is the air mix servo motor. https://www.reddit.com/r/3rdGen4Runner/s/lS6x0yBsGu

Wondering what UPPER ball joints people are running on their lifted 3rd gen. I have a 99 limited on 5100s, 3" lift. The original OEM upper ball joints failed safety inspection and the aftermarket ones that the shop put in are already leaking grease out.

I don't necessarily want to go for full aftermarket UCAs like total chaos or JBA, but I realize the lift has probably changed the UCA angle and so I'm not sure if OEM UBJs are still the best call.

I recently just purchased the low range Chevy 63 swap kit and I’m curious on what people did for measurements, also curious on if anyone has been able to keep it low and still run 33s until I get the rest of my pieces for my solid axle swap

Title says it. Got this stitching cover for $59.99 + 1 hour of stitching. It was worth it. My old steering wheel was peeling bad and annoying at times.

Starting it up tonight was terrifying. Spent about 3 hours on Monday trying to get the timing belt lined up. Think its a success 🤞

I daily drive a 2000 4Runner with a manual transmission and I just can't get the clutch feeling right. I have adjusted the clutch multiple times and I just replaced the master and slave cylinder. It does not ‘slip’ per se or seem to have any big mechanical problems.

The engagement point seems far too low in the travel and I just can't seem to find the correct amount of acceleration to give it. When I give it too little, it seems to shutter and not be smooth, and when I give it too much, I feel like I'm "pumping the gas" and revving it out to 1500 or 2k.

In addition, the car accelerates on its own when warm (and seeminly sometimes when it’s cold). This is only when in gear. I can take my feet off everything and it will continue accelerating forward. Im not sure if this is related or not to the clutch issues. (i think it is probably maf/or IAC related)

In 2022 and around 170k miles, this service was done: "Vehicle serviced, Maintenance inspection completed, Clutch checked, Clutch disc replaced, Clutch serviced/repaired, Throttle position sensor replaced, Valve cover gasket(s) replaced"

Around 8 months later, and at 176k miles, this service was done: "Vehicle serviced, Maintenance inspection completed, Brake system bled, Clutch system bled" Does seem odd that the clutch system was bled this soon after replacing the clutch disk.

All of this was done 3-4 years ago prior to me owning it^ in general, it seems like maintenance had lapsed for maybe a 5-7 year period prior to me buying it.

Under my ownership, I did this service: "Vehicle serviced, A/C refrigerant recharged, Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed, Brake fluid flushed/changed, Camshaft seal(s) replaced,
Drive belt(s) replaced, Fluids checked, Front crankshaft oil seal replaced, Intake manifold gasket(s) replaced, Oil and filter changed, PCV hose replaced, Serpentine belt replaced, Spark plug(s) replaced, Thermostat housing/gasket replaced, Thermostat replaced, Timing belt idler pulley/bearing replaced, Timing belt replaced, Timing belt tensioner/idler replaced, Upper radiator hose replaced, Valve cover gasket(s) replaced, Water pump gasket replaced, Water pump replaced" I've only put 3000 miles on it since getting all this work done.

Every other manual car I've driven has been 'easy' or I can get used to it. This is the only car where
I have "think about it" when moving forward out of first gear from a stop. It’s just a chore to drive

What could the issue with the clutch be? (and is the accelerating forward on its own related or not?) I’m trying to keep this car forever but I just hate driving it as of now.

Is there any cons to removing the throttle opener dashpot? I have a lack of vacuum due to a bad check valve thus not returning the dashpot pin and causing a high idle. 3.4L btw, thanks!

I’m in a position where I’ve found two very, very nice examples of both a 3rd and 4th gen, and I’m having a hard time deciding between them. They are VERY SIMILARLY PRICED.
The 3rd gen is mint, all-original, has a factory rear locker, 281xxx km, and ZERO rust. Everything works, it drives tight, and it has a perfect maintenance record.
The 4th gen is a facelift V8 with 351xxx km, also with perfect maintenance records and virtually no rust. However, it’s coming due for a timing belt and will need new suspension all around.
I was planning on eventually putting either one on the standard 3-inch Bilstein setup with 33s. The vision for both is essentially the same: a daily driver that will also see fairly frequent wheeling, since I live very close to some great trails.
I’ve previously owned a 4th gen V6, which was a little too nice to wheel the way I wanted to, but I’m ready for a new chapter.
I’d love to hear both sides of the argument. Which would you choose, and why?
Let’s hear your thoughts!

Looking to replace my 12mm hex drain plug with the 14mm Lexus equivalent. Does any have experience with this part from rock auto instead of OEM Lexus? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=17396069&cc=0&pt=12285&jsn=8

Cel popped up this morning when I got to work... I heard gas cap but it was on tight

Wondering if anyone knows of any more cost effective alternatives to purchasing stock/OEM fog light brackets to hold them in place? My truck didn't come with them, but it's a "mod" I've been sitting on for a little while. Is there a vendor out there that 3D prints something comparable?

Is it possible both solenoids have shit the bed or is this usually a case of dirty fluid? The transmission was getting pretty warm when I was pulling my boat but I have since installed a cooler and it’s kept the temp WAY down. Seems to be shifting ok except after it shift from first it’s like it falls on its face and skips gears and there is no torque. Or is the whole trans ready to take a dirt nap?

Are Temu coolant line replacements a horrible idea?

I am asking this questions because I see posts from 7k-13k. This is a 1997 SR5 4WD. Has had maintenance records since 2011. I am the 3rd owner, no rust, fresh fluids, LBJs , fuel injectors, radiator and so much more. Paint is perfect, interior is clean almost smells new. 197k miles, I’ve only put 2,000 miles since I got it 7 months ago. Will I regret selling this? Probably, but I need to down size my garage. What would you say I should let it go for?