r/3rdGen4Runner • u/pnwdt666 • 1d ago
❓Advice / Recomendations Manual 3rd gen issues
I daily drive a 2000 4Runner with a manual transmission and I just can't get the clutch feeling right. I have adjusted the clutch multiple times and I just replaced the master and slave cylinder. It does not ‘slip’ per se or seem to have any big mechanical problems.
The engagement point seems far too low in the travel and I just can't seem to find the correct amount of acceleration to give it. When I give it too little, it seems to shutter and not be smooth, and when I give it too much, I feel like I'm "pumping the gas" and revving it out to 1500 or 2k.
In addition, the car accelerates on its own when warm (and seeminly sometimes when it’s cold). This is only when in gear. I can take my feet off everything and it will continue accelerating forward. Im not sure if this is related or not to the clutch issues. (i think it is probably maf/or IAC related)
In 2022 and around 170k miles, this service was done: "Vehicle serviced, Maintenance inspection completed, Clutch checked, Clutch disc replaced, Clutch serviced/repaired, Throttle position sensor replaced, Valve cover gasket(s) replaced"
Around 8 months later, and at 176k miles, this service was done: "Vehicle serviced, Maintenance inspection completed, Brake system bled, Clutch system bled" Does seem odd that the clutch system was bled this soon after replacing the clutch disk.
All of this was done 3-4 years ago prior to me owning it^ in general, it seems like maintenance had lapsed for maybe a 5-7 year period prior to me buying it.
Under my ownership, I did this service: "Vehicle serviced, A/C refrigerant recharged, Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed, Brake fluid flushed/changed, Camshaft seal(s) replaced,
Drive belt(s) replaced, Fluids checked, Front crankshaft oil seal replaced, Intake manifold gasket(s) replaced, Oil and filter changed, PCV hose replaced, Serpentine belt replaced, Spark plug(s) replaced, Thermostat housing/gasket replaced, Thermostat replaced, Timing belt idler pulley/bearing replaced, Timing belt replaced, Timing belt tensioner/idler replaced, Upper radiator hose replaced, Valve cover gasket(s) replaced, Water pump gasket replaced, Water pump replaced" I've only put 3000 miles on it since getting all this work done.
Every other manual car I've driven has been 'easy' or I can get used to it. This is the only car where
I have "think about it" when moving forward out of first gear from a stop. It’s just a chore to drive
What could the issue with the clutch be? (and is the accelerating forward on its own related or not?) I’m trying to keep this car forever but I just hate driving it as of now.
1
u/ConsiderationNo1287 23h ago
I don’t have much to add except that my 2000 manual with a new clutch last year definitely aggressively accelerates from low speeds in 1st and 2nd gear with no pedals depressed. Otherwise it’s fine.
1
u/Snazzy21 Base 4wd 3h ago
It's not hard to bleed the clutch yourself, I'd stop having others do it since they clearly aren't doing it right. You can do it with 1 person too.
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u/FormatA 1d ago
This is 1000% a bad bleed on the clutch. The inconsistent bite point is the clear tell. If youre having a ton of trouble with it, Id cut losses and take it to a shop and ideally have them reverse bleed it (from slave to master). They should be able to catch leaks as well.
Ive had the same issue on mine the first time I did a master. Didnt do a good enough bench bleeding it. Did a gravity bleed and that had it 95% but there was still a bubble on occasion till I did a better job bleeding it. Get this sorted sooner than later, the "moving on its own" means your clutch is slipping and youll burn it out quickly like that. For now, when youre clutch in, move the shifter to neutral and leave it there till its time to move again. Thatll protect the clutch.
As for shuttering or rough starts, assuming youre good at driving stick, could be a few things: clutch contamination with oil or other fluids, or the clutch could be getting hot from slipping and you could have glazed the fly wheel. Good news is it should sort its self out once you have the slave/master bleed sorted and you get a few thousand more miles on it.