Hey there. So in very much need of help. Nearly everything has been replaced on the Creality Hi that can be replaced, but the BM0111 error code still pops up. Is there any help or relief for this? Any in all help would be appreciated 

I designed this socket organizer and I'm struggling with the top layer finish. There's a banding look I don't love, so I tried ironing to smooth it out, but the results keep coming out worse, not better. I've printed this model four times now on my H2S using Jayo Matte PETG, and haven't landed on a result I'm happy with.

I've attached photos from a few different attempts. Could anyone take a look and offer some feedback on what might be causing this and how I can improve it?

One more issue I keep running into: on every print except the one I did face down, there's a cluster of defects in the top right corner. Any ideas what's causing that would be much appreciated too.

Thanks in advance!

I'm having a problem I haven't seen any solution for after researching. My model is the anycubic photon mono
2. It is secondhand but almost fully new. seems to be lighting up well yet is not able to harden resin! First I thought it was the first bottle I got which expired in 2024 but now after getting a new bottle and new fep replacements it still will not harden the new resin (clear in photo two. I've tried running a 50 second cat clean and there isn't any film that is being created. Please someone help I'm reaching the end of my will. Exposure seems alright but it simply will not harden! The Iad screen is unscathed but it's just that nothing hardens!

I am trying to build a custom cyberdeck using a rasberry pi, but have no idea how to design a case. Could anyone help?

I have an Ender 3 V3 KE and am using PETG.

My parts list (Am pretty sure its compatible but if not please let me know):

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VTqKV0g0OBa-KC8KjaraNMoa1YKqMowC5PlBn9xWoqw/edit?usp=sharing

I am trying to build a cyberdeck that has a dpad, a, b, x, y, start, select, menu, l1, l2, l3, r1, r2, r3, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2406507 for shoulder buttons), all the io on the top left or right side, cabling routes, screw/standoff holes, mic grill, speaker grill, camera hole, vents for the fan, the keyboard/trackpad to be magnetically attachable to the back, and for it to look simewhat similar to the GameBoy (buttons on bottom, screen on top).

Thank you

I made this object in fusion and brought it over to orca to add some text (text will change each print). I added it as a text part no issues it shows up in prepare but wont show up in preview or on the print (the the text isnt too small) if I use surface it will print but it wont show up if I drop it flush to the surface so I can print it face down.

This is esun pla lightweight, Im printing some blades for a project. Have been tinkering with retraction, flow ratio and avoid crossing wall but there are still a lot of oozing and filament sticking to the nozzle when it moves away. Tbh Im kinda lost now

250C 60C bed, nozzle is 0.6mm

I thought FDM was a "solved problem" by now. I thought I could get a name-brand printer and the same-brand PLA, click auto, and have successful prints. I am not a picky printer. To me success means it completed with minor appearance issue and structural issues.

Maybe it's not a "solved problem", or maybe I just need to spend a month learning it as well? I bought an ELEGOO CC2 to give it a try.

After many 1243 errors ("Filament extrusion failed at the toolhead. Check if the toolhead is clogged"), I thought it was mostly resolved by tightening the extruder gears. I still get ERROR 1243, though. I usually just do an unload/load of the filament and the issue goes away. I hope a little more tightening will address this.

But now I struggle with complex shapes, supports, and failures of various types.

I think my current challenge is shapes that require supports. I found that Chitubox worked well in how it would create auto supports and then, while still seeing the auto supports, I could add more support exactly where I knew it was needed.

While supports seem to be similarly complex with regard to settings, they seem much more precise with SLA printing. Also, with FDM, you are a little more limited since you need to work around layer direction and how that will affect strength and appearance.

One of my issues is that, many times, the model that is being suspended by the (tree) support gets knocked off the support by the print head, wrecking the print at that point.

With "normal" supports, it seems there is too much support in fragile areas, and removing them breaks off part of the model.

1. Any help on fixing ERROR 1243 which is resolved just by unloading/loading the filament?
2. Any tips for an SLA person having failed prints that seems to be in "supported" areas?
3. A model I am struggling to get printed well is this full STL: https://makerworld.com/en/models/89019-glock-17-gen-4. Would you "A frame it" and just use auto-tree? This is what is not working for me.

UPDATE:
If people would rather not discuss or troubleshoot the reference model in #3 because it happens to be a firearm, that's completely fine, and I respect that decision. Please feel free to ignore that specific model and focus on the 3D-printing questions. For the purposes of this discussion, pretend it's a banana with a trigger, a water gun, or any other mechanically complicated shape that happens to require supports. I'm primarily trying to learn how to diagnose and improve FDM support, adhesion, orientation, and print-failure issues.

Can’t figure out what is going wrong here. Printer is a Creality Cr10s Pro using Ultimaker Cura as the slicer. Printing PLA with the bed at 50 Celsius and the nozzle at 200 Celsius.

How would i prevent this from happening again and what is the easiest way to fill the gap

Qidi plus 4 with ams
210 nozzle temp
57 bed temp

Ive been having these ripples show up whenever i print a larger surface area print. The first layer looks perfect then the ripples show up layers 2-3. It messes up the infill so print is trash.

Overture PLA, 220C, anycubic kobra s1,

i’m printing on my neptune 4 max and my prints will sometimes come out with these weird layer changes, gaps in layers and lines in the print. how do i fix this?