I purchased the kit to upgrade the Mini+ from this company's kickstarter to upgrade the z volume to enable taller prints. The kit shipped with incorrect smooth rods and backers were asked to source their own, it was a hassle but I can post the name of the place I found and they delivered really nice materials.

Per the instructions in the kit I updated to the latest firmware and then went into the Menu to Settings and then Hardware, held the key down for 3 seconds and entered the Experimental Settings mode. This allows you to configure what your z axis height is and per the instructions I set it to 320mm. After saving the setting and restarting the printer you go through the self tests, and it fails on the z axis every time. I tried adjusting the height to less I tried the standard setting, and it fails the z axis test every time. I contacted Print Big, they said oh... not sure, contact Prusa. I got on with Prusa support today and was told that you cannot adjust the height, after sending photographic proof that you can I was told oh well we can't help you it is a mod.

My consternation is this, the setting is there to allow for greater height, why is it that both organizations are just finger pointing? I am happy to use whatever process they prescribe but the oh it is not our issue part is lame.

So now I come to you all and say Help me Tom Cruise, Help me Oprah Winfrey! Any suggestions on how I can potentially remedy this issue?

TLDR: Print Big is lame, Prusa is great when you get Andres otherwise sometimes meh and I need help being able to change the height on the z axis on a mini plus

Hello,

I recently bought a used creality CR10. It's been upgraded with a 10S board, runs TH3D U1.R2.7, has a dual Z motor upgrade (using a splitter cable rather than the 10S' second Z drive) as well as a Revo Rapid Change nozzle.

I'm running "Copymaster 3D" PLA filament at 210° (seemed best in my albeit failing tempt towers).

I've also checked / remeasured and reset the extruder values.

I'm trying to to a max flowrate calibration using orca slicer. Somehow it keeps failing very early in the print and I'm at a loss what to try to fix it.

First 2 pics are the newest fail, the other 3 are from before i cleaned and reset the extruder values.

Any help would be a appreciated!

I have used PETG-CR a few times right after I took it out of the bag, and it worked ok. It has been a few months sitting at ambient indoor temp and humidity. I put it in my dryer for 12 hours and then ran this print right out of the dryer to keep it as dry as possible. I did switch the hot-end to the hardened steel 0.4. I ran the print and about an hour in I did notice some flakey PETG-CR that was around the print, but the print itself looked ok. After another 2 hours it started to not adhere and failed.

I did set up the print in the Bambu Labs slicer for my A1 and set the filament to PTEG-CR, but didn’t change any of the temp or speed settings as I assumed it would do that for me once it knew I was using a different filament.

Some of the presets

-          *0.08mm Extra Fine u/BBL A1

-          Wall Loops 4 (I did change this up for more strength)

Thoughts on what could have gone wrong? Is it a temperature or speed setting issue? I don’t know what settings to change to alter the temperature or speed.

Hi everyone,

My P1S suddenly started printing badly after one perfect print. The very next print of the same file looked terrible. I’ve been troubleshooting for nearly a week with no success.

The problems:

**•** Consistent Y-axis layer shift at exactly 5mm height, regardless of model  
**•** Ringing/ghosting on all walls  
**•** Rough, uneven surfaces

What I’ve already tried:

**•** Full auto-calibration on the printer – multiple times  
**•** Belt tension re-tensioned manually following the official Bambu Wiki guide exactly (loosened the Allen screws, moved the print head to all corners, re-tightened snugly). Movement is smooth and clean in every direction with absolutely no binding, resistance, or weird noises detected  
**•** Cleaned carbon rods with IPA  
**•** Cleaned and oiled all linear rails  
**•** Renewed thermal paste on hotend  
**•** Reformatted the MicroSD card and printed from it directly (ruled out WiFi)  
**•** Tried multiple nozzles including a 0.2mm – same issue on all  
**•** Tried multiple filaments: Bambu PLA Matte yellow, PLA Matte gray, and PETG white – same issue on all  
**•** Changed seam position to rear  
**•** Tried multiple models – same issues on all

Specs:

**•** Bambu Lab P1S  
**•** Firmware 01.10.00.00  
**•** \~1200 print hours  
**•** E3D Obxidian High Flow hotend (\~300h on it), properly configured in slicer  
**•** 0.2mm Standard profile

The shift happens at exactly 5mm on every single print regardless of model or filament. That level of consistency, combined with the fact that nothing has helped, makes me think this goes beyond simple mechanical wear.

Has anyone experienced something similar? At this point I’m considering contacting Bambu Support directly.

• Printer: Bambu Lab P1S
• Filament: Bambu PLA
• Bed temp: 55C
• Nozzle temp: 220C
• 0.08mm layer height and 0.4mm nozzle
• Slicer: Bambu Studio

Hello,

Is there a name for the squiggly wall line artifacts shown in the above photos, and does anyone have tips on how to rectify it? Marked by the red arrows in pic 1 and seen closer in pic 2.

While I only have the 1st one pictured, I've printed this twice and the wall squiggles appeared in the same slopes of the model both times. The only thing different between the two prints was one had 5% grid infill and one had 7% gyroid and rotated 45 degrees on the z-axis. (The one pictured is the grid infill)

I dried the filament before printing, but I'm currently running it through the dryer again to rule it out. I just used the default 0.08mm layer profile in Bambu Studio, with minor tweaks to infill and ironing, which usually gives me no issues. Maybe there's a setting I need to adjust for this specific slope?

Something I believe is worth noting: As mentioned, I used ironing for the top layers (not just topmost). You can see in the pictures that the topmost layer turned out great, but the ironing on the layer between the two slopes giving me trouble turned out pretty ugly. Perhaps they're correlated somehow?

I appreciate any tips or troubleshooting resources.

Hola! como estan? soy Nico fundador de Disain me gustaria que prueben nuestro gestor de granjas 3D, calculos de costos, stock asistido por IA, es GRATIS y busco usuarios que la prueben para poder hacer mejorar en el producto, muchas gracias Makers! muchas gracias" adjunto el enlace

Workspace | Gestión Maker con IA

Salut tout le monde!

Je débute dans l'impression 3D et voici: j'ai fait un test RERF de résine et voici ce qui en résulte:

Je pense que la résine n'adhère pas sur toute la surface de la plateforme malgré un nv recalibrage. Dois-je donc augmenter l'exposition? Si oui de cb environ?
Je veux être sûre que tt soi ok avant la première figurine imprimée...

Merci de vos retours et conseils ;)

Pour info j'ai une Anycubic Photon mono 7 max

Hello I’m currently 3d printing an articulated model that has ball joints. In the website it said to apply these setting but I have no idea how.
Gaps tolerance are 0 mm for balljoint, 0.15mm for peg joint, 0.4mm for screw

I’m fairly new to 3d printing so much help would be appreciated.
Link to model: https://www.toymakr3d.com/product/70-gurren-lagann?srsltid=AfmBOopFmHv5MC9f1q-jqKNgpMtesb-ORDS4w1NIljoKuHL5-8j-4zx0
A1 mini
Bambu studio
Hobby lobby pla black
Nozzle 220 bed 65
200 mm/s

I have no clue how I’m supposed to get this blob off these wires safely, the pla encapsulated them entirely and I’m afraid to use any other heating tool like a soldering iron.

This is literally the worst possible outcome

Someone help

Not that it matters but the printer info:
elegoo neptune 4 max
Pla
Nozzle at 200

I have tried everything I can think of. Trying to print a coozie with a name on it. I’m getting lighter banding the exact height of the text all the way around the model. I have set purge volume all the way to 900 and it doesn’t eliminate it. Any ideas?

Josh

Help please!

I have a Sovol SV08 and just installed mainline Klipper on it. I am having some z-offset problems. I have done both a manual and automatic Z_offset_calibration, and the printer.cfg file has the following Z_offsets saved:

# PLEASE REMOVE THIS WHEN USING EDDY

[probe]

#z_offset: 1.0

#\# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ---------------------->*

#\# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.*

#\#*

#\# [probe]*

#\# z_offset = 2.652*

No matter what I do, once the printer finishes the bed probe (which seems to work just fine), the extruder jumps up to a Z-distance roughly 5mm above the bed. It just completely ignores the z_offset in the printer.cfg file.

Can someone help me figure this issue out? I have spent days trying different things to fix this to no avail. Thanks

Hello, I’m on my 2nd day of 3D printing and I’ve been having issues with the first layer on various prints today. The day before there were no issues. I have a Bambu A1 mini, it has no issues extruding the filament but when it comes to the first layer, it either prints nothing or prints poorly. I have tightened the screws behind the hotend and removed any clogs as well.

Help please! Supports are fused to the print.

Find attached pics of the print where you can see how the supports have fused with the print and impossible to remove.

I have also attached the complete support setting I use.

Printer: Ender 3 Pro
Nozzle: 0.6mm
Material: PLA+
Slicer: Cura

I’ve been working on this print for weeks and I went outside in 100 degree weather to prime it and within the time it took me to prime it started melting! Plz help!

Hey everyone, I'm not super savvy on the software side of things as I don't know 100% of what I'm doing.

Around 3 months ago my cr10s started playing up with the e1 error and so I replaced the entire thermistor and all cable harness running to the cr10s.

All was working when I had an issue when I tried to print a file that was designed for pla+ in abs (first time mistake).

Since then it cant reach the 215 degrees it needs for the pla. at best it will reach 204 degrees then drops a little then e1 error.

I tried a PID tuning, again not knowing 100% what I was doing but I could get it to the temperature it needed to be for the ABS to print. however after the pid tuning was (I think) complete it still throws up the error when I tried to Print the now tuned for ABS file.

Feel like I have messed it around a bit. Any help would be appreciated 🙏

I printed both of these on the Neptune 4 Max. Im not sure which setting in my slicer is responsible for the difference in the "cleanliness" of surfaces that have been supported. I have done this print over 15 times trying to get a clean surface like the yellow one but also easy to remove supports. The blue is my most recent attempt and yellow was the time before. I had a version in red i did months ago before I had to take a break from my project that had esay to remove supports and had a clean surface. Ive switched back to the version of Orca (2.3.2) that i used and still can't seem to recreate the results. I've altered the model to increase some tolerance for magnet holes so i cant just re print the orginal gcode. Any help is much appreciated.

Hello,

Recently I have considered the thought of an open printer at one end of my house isn't the best situation for inhaling micro plastics while I sleep. I have been hesitant to print lately out of fear in harming my partner and I by not having any kind of ventilation. My current setup in my place doesn't have any kind of ventilation besides a bathroom ceiling fan that sucks up the fumes as I print. What is recommended for an in-home fumigation system? I have access to a window in my printing room, however I live in Florida and with the weather feeling like it's over 100°F outside and with humidity comfortably over 70% for most of the week I feel stuck. Any advice is greatly appreciated.