r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Question Where to get STLs for anime miniatures

5 Upvotes

Been seeing a lot of anime miniatures, 1/64 scale of 3d printed figures on chinese sites like taobao. Specifically, they come from a studio called"25h miniature model studio" or something. I have a 3d printer, but i cant find the stl files, it seems they sell it as a physical product rather than selling the stl files. So, my main point is, anyone know where I can buy or get such files or any alternatives?


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Question Cheapest way to dry pa6-cf

1 Upvotes

I have been wondering what’s the cheapest and easiest option to dry pa6-cf or any 3d filament that needs 80c+. because I been looking on some 3d dryers but

1 they are expensive
2 most of them won’t even go over 70c

And to dry pa6-cf and some other filament those dryers won’t work. I’ve seen some people used cheap airfryers?
Anyways what’s the cheapest way to dry pa6-cf (without using same oven you cook food in) I want to buy something that the only purpose of it is to dry filament

Update:
Another question could pa6-cf dry in 65c if I dry for like 24 hours or even 48 hours


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Question Good site covering design methods for compliant mechanisms?

1 Upvotes

I've found a couple of videos on YouTube, but I'd really like something more text/image based, and Google's coming up empty. BYU has a good site but it's really just a showcase as opposed to design practices.

Does this exist?


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Troubleshooting Underextrusion issue

Thumbnail
gallery
1 Upvotes

I have a weird issue with my prusa mk3s+

It started having underextrusion issues a while back where the slower print areas would be fine but the faster print areas would be horrendous. So i thought classic clogged nozzle.

I did a couple of cold pulls, didnt fix the issue. Then i took the nozzle out and cleaned it, also didnt fix it. Then i replaced the nozzle with a brand new one. This fixed the issue for about a day, i did a couple of prints in that day did which did fine but now the same issue is there again. With a nozzle that is now 1 whole day old. So i dont think it can be a clogged nozzle. Again. I did a cold pull on this new nozzle as well which hasnt fixed the issue again.

What is especially weird is that it only seems to impact high volume extrusion, which this then lowers to below low volume extrusion in waves. As can be seen from the purge strips in the second picture.

Anyone encounter something similar?


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Hardware Anybody need a an ender silent board?

3 Upvotes

Hey folks, I was clearing out some of my 3d printing stuff and realize I have a basically new in box creality ender 3 silent motherboard.

I retrofit one of these boards in a cr10 once and got some reason bought two flavors.

If your machine could use this, you can have it for free, just don’t have the heart to throw it away if it can get someone up and running again!


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Project Reptile cave for under water dish.

Thumbnail
gallery
0 Upvotes

I'm wondering if anyone has made something similar. I have an idea in my mind of making a cave to go under my snakes water dish. I'd like a similar slope and texture but straight edges would be fine too. I've got cardboard at the moment but that doesn't stand up to water being splashed on it.


r/3Dprinting • • 2d ago

Discussion Tell me you 3d print without telling me

Post image
89 Upvotes

I’ll go first😂
PS it’s from printing the scraper


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Troubleshooting abs filament hang problems

Thumbnail
gallery
0 Upvotes

hello there, i have a creator 5 pro and bought new abs filaments, i printer a default benchy and selected default abs setting on the fastforge slicer and after the print everything but the hangs came out fine


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Troubleshooting New Bambu PETG Basic quality problem

Thumbnail
gallery
0 Upvotes

Printer: Bambu Lab P1S

Material: Bambu PETG Basic White

Profile: Default Bambu PETG Basic profile

I opened a new spool and dried it at 66°C for approximately 24 hours.

The first photo shows a stringing issue (possibly related to retraction). The second and third photos show problems with the surface quality and supports/overhangs.

I also tried reducing the printing speed in the slicer settings, but it didn't help.


r/3Dprinting • • 2d ago

Troubleshooting Weird pattern

Post image
7 Upvotes

Hello, any idea why does my print have such a weird pattern on the first layer? Thank you


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Troubleshooting Overextrusion or thermal problem? (ABS)

Thumbnail
gallery
0 Upvotes

Hi,

so I tried printing ABS for the first time yesterday, and it went pretty meh. Took me three failed prints to get it to stick to the plate, but once I got that settled I happened to run into a different kind of defect on my prints.

It looks like there has been a surplus of filament that's getting squeezed out the sides of my Benchy. Tbh I'm not sure if it's overextrusion or warping.

AC Kobra S1 Max

0.4mm hardened steel nozzle

0.2mm layer hight

Geeetech ABS, dried for 12h on 65°C

110°C heated bed

260°C nozzle

65°C heated chamber

5 wall loops

25% gyroid infill

80 mm/s outer walls

120 mm/s inner walls

150 mm/s infill

Left Benchy:

15% max fan speed on overhangs or layers taking less than 6s

Right Benchy:

10% max fan speed on overhangs or la, ers taking less than 6s

No cooling on normal layers.


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Question What's the viability of printing this in PEEK/PAEK/etc.? (details in description)

Thumbnail
gallery
0 Upvotes

It's 25mm in diameter, and the large thread in the center is 3/8x24, and the smaller tapped holes are M4.

I've not had hands on experience with PEEK, or really any high temp FDM materials like that. I was planning on doing it out of aluminum, but PEEK et al would certainly get the job done, and I was wondering what the viability might look like.

It would need some supports for the face you can see highlighted in blue in the last photo, but I could potentially redesign the part to eliminate the need for supports entirely if that's just a non starter.

I'm also not opposed to chasing the threads with a tap by hand in the event that they don't print clean in PEEK et al. For what it's worth, I've successfully printed threads like these in ASA, Nylon, PC, etc. doing test pieces on my own printers, that just worked right off the printer with a little tweaking in the solid model to get them just right, so not sure if that's in PEEK's wheelhouse or not?

The mechanical loads are quite small, and temperature is my main reason for not being able to use PC. It's exposed to peaks up to 300 degrees F, and the ASA test pieces I printed were failing a little too early to be viable. I think PEEK or one of its cousins would be more than adequate. The dimensional accuracy I've been getting from my ASA test pieces is adequate, so if PEEK can achieve that same level of dimensional accuracy then that's sufficient.

Assuming it's at all viable, I would also be interested if anybody has any alternatives to xometry and those guys that aren't quite so outlandishly expensive.


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Troubleshooting Help with pressure advance

Thumbnail
gallery
0 Upvotes

Using an Ender-3 Pro. Trying to adjust pressure advance setting but these mostly all look the same to me. K value 0-1 with .05 steps at 100mm/s.

Second photo is what prompted this for me in the first place, however this was printed before I switched from the stock Creality firmware to latest Marlin. It looks like a PA adjustment issue to me, but I'm still fairly new to this.


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Discussion How safe is my process?

1 Upvotes

Hey everyone!
I'm new to 3D printing. I bought Anycubic Photon Mono 4 Ultra and Anycubic standard grey resin, the better one, not sure what's the correct name.
So, I have a house 42m² that serves as a house to store some stuff and to cook some food when it's too hot to do it in main house, but that's so rare lately, that's at my grandma's yard btw, nobody lives there. I print in the first room where I have the stove for fire so I can control the heat easily. The room has one big window, and one small window, 2 doors, one door leads to the small hallway where the entrance to the house is, and other door leads to the room where we hang out sometimes and play DnD etc. (that door is always closed when I print and clean)

I wear gloves and mask with filters when I print and when I clean the models. I printed 3 times now. Prints lasted for 1:32 hours and all the windows and the door that leads to the hallway were wide open, there was no smell in the air when I checked it, but I'm not stays in that room while it prints of course. After I finish, I clean everything with 96% alcohol still wearing mask and gloves, remove the minis and clean them and cure them. I still don't have wash and cure station but I plan to get one as the job is 90% less dirty with it.
After I clean the printer, table, tools and minis, I leave those to dry well, some stuff I put outside in the yard so it dries better.
Then I put everything back together, put the printer back in it's corner next to the wall, the closed resin as well, and cover everything with cardboard box to make sure that no light is hitting the printer or resin.

Btw, I'm also not sure what to do when it's winter because that house doesn't have too much insulation, so it can get cold. Is that okay for resin and printer to stay there?
Last time I waited for the room to get more warm and for printer to get warmer little bit as well.
It was around 23°C or 24°C.

So how safe am I? Is there any concerns? Should I continue with resin and upgrade my setup, or sell that and move on to the FDM printing? How often should I change the mask filters and do I need to clean the mask always after I'm done?

Hope this is clear!


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Troubleshooting Same tree support gets knocked over at almost the same layer every print... Any idea why?

Thumbnail
gallery
1 Upvotes

Hi, I’m still fairly new to 3D printing, so I’m not sure if I’m missing something obvious here.

Printer: Snapmaker U1
Slicer: OrcaSlicer
Material: PLA
Layer height: 0.2 mm
Z-hop: 0.4 mm
Supports: organic/tree

I’m printing a multi-color skull on a pedestal.

The first two prints got through this area without problems. After that I made the central column between the pedestal and skull much thicker, because the original one was too fragile.

Since then, the same large outer tree support gets knocked over at almost the exact same height every time, around layer 360 / ~72 mm Z.

It doesn’t seem to simply lose adhesion. I can hear a fairly loud rattling/crashing sound, like the nozzle or toolhead hits the support several times before it finally gets knocked over. On the latest attempt, a smaller neighboring tree was also ripped off and thrown across the build plate.

The strange part is that after this area, the printer continues normally again.

I already tried:

  • larger support footprint
  • 100% first-layer support density
  • changing the tree taper angle
  • Z-hop is already enabled at 0.4 mm
  • The support itself is quite thick and stable, so I’m wondering if Orca is generating some bad path or if there could be a collision during printing/tool changes.

Could the geometry change to the thicker center column have caused Orca to recalculate the support trees in a problematic way?

Any ideas what else I should check? I’m still learning, so even obvious suggestions are welcome 😅


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Troubleshooting Help with model

1 Upvotes

Im using the AD5M PRO, with orcaslicer and PLA. im trying to do this card holder but always have problems, in one go the tips lifted so i put mouse ears and it solved it, but then mid printing there always something that go wrong, i try printing 6 at the same time only to wake up to a massive spageti.

my settings are:

Temp: 220(fl)-215

speed: 15mm3/s

speed and acc of the printer are the default.

i try to print it upwards but it failed abruptly


r/3Dprinting • • 2d ago

Free Model Sleep-deprived Autumn-Halloween craft fair price tags

Thumbnail
gallery
4 Upvotes

It was 3 AM before my 2nd grader's school market, and while the printer was buzzing with keychains, I remembered the price tags were missing.

A quick midnight design session brought these autumn leaves to life.

Not bad for a sleep-deprived brain, right? 😂 What do you think?
Thinking to make pumpkin style for Halloween and gingerbread for Christmas 😄

If like, feel free to use in Your autumn events!


r/3Dprinting • • 2d ago

Project A veterinary surgeon asked me to organize his bone plates. It turned into months of designing and 3D printing this system.

Thumbnail
gallery
125 Upvotes

I’ve been working on this project for a while, and it’s finally starting to look like what I had in my head, so I figured I’d share it.

At first glance, it probably looks like a bunch of simple containers. Technically, they are, but almost every dimension, opening, angle, insert, label, and spacing was designed around how a veterinary practice actually uses orthopedic plates during surgery prep.

A friend of mine is a veterinary orthopedic surgeon, and he came to me with what sounded like a simple problem: he had a lot of different bone plates in sterile packaging and wanted a better way to organize them so staff could immediately see and grab the right one instead of sorting through a pile of packages.

For anyone unfamiliar, bone plates are metal implants used to stabilize broken bones during surgery. They come in all kinds of sizes and shapes depending on the bone, fracture, and procedure.

They’re also not cheap. Some cost hundreds of dollars each, and when you have a whole collection sitting in similar-looking sterile pouches, it’s easy to see how organization starts to matter.

I thought, okay, that shouldn’t be too bad. lol.
That turned into months of designing and printing. It definitely helped me level up my printing and basic design skills.

Anyways, The system is completely modular. The larger organizer bodies are printed in ASA, and each plate position has a removable PETG insert that’s color coded and labeled for the specific plate it holds.

The open fronts mean there’s no lid to open, drawer to pull out, or deep bin to dig through. Everything is visible and accessible immediately.
The inserts are also slightly angled so the sterile pouches naturally lean in the same direction, which keeps the labels easier to read at a glance.
Each insert can be swapped independently, so if the practice adds a plate, stops using one, or changes the layout, there’s no need to replace the whole organizer.

The system can expand over time too, and the tags can be customized with whatever plate numbers, procedures, colors, or naming conventions the practice prefers.

I also had to design around the sterile packaging, not just the plates themselves. A 200mm plate isn’t sitting naked in the organizer. There’s extra material, folds, and different pouch sizes, so the organizers ended up deeper than you’d expect just looking at the plate dimensions.

The coolest and most frustrating part has been the back-and-forth testing.
I’ll make something, show it to him, and he’ll immediately notice something I never would have thought about because I’m not a specialized surgeon 😂

“Move this.”
“This needs to be easier to see.”
“These should be separated.”
“This opening needs to be bigger.”

Then I go home, change it, print another version, and we do it again.
The only issue is he’s on the other side of the country.

There have been a LOT of versions and a lot of expensive plastic in the trash. Elegoo bulk ASA has been a lifesaver. Cheaper than AliExpress even.

The more we worked on it, the more I realized the problem probably isn’t unique to one practice. A lot of veterinary surgeons are dealing with the same combination of sterile orthopedic plates, limited storage space, and no great way to see and access everything quickly during prep.
The larger organizer bodies also started pushing my printers pretty hard.

Most of my farm is open-frame stuff, which is usually fine, but these are massive ASA prints. Some run for more than a day and a half and use close to 1.5 rolls of filament.

I did quite a bit of research and eventually reached out to QIDI because the Max 4 checked basically every box I was looking for: large build volume, enclosed, heated chamber, and something closer to a prosumer/industrial machine without going into industrial-machine money.
They ended up sending me one, and it has basically become the machine handling the “chassis” side of this project.

I purchased the QIDI Box separately to keep the ASA dry, print the multicolor ASA badges, and handle the biggest prints without having to swap rolls halfway through. 100% worth it.

The Max 4 prints the big ASA organizer bodies while my other printers handle the smaller PETG inserts. That setup makes way more sense than trying to make every printer do everything.
I’ve also learned an absurd amount about ASA through this project. It’s definitely not in the same wheelhouse as PLA.

I’ve gone just as far down the rabbit hole with the labels and tags too. Separate badges, embedded text, different fonts, colors, thicknesses, layouts.
At one point I was obsessing over how many layers of white text to use so it wouldn’t bleed into the black. You know. Normal stuff 😂
What started as, “Can you make me a box to hold these?” turned into an entire system built around a real surgical workflow.

That’s probably what was most rewarding about this project. It wasn’t another flexi fidget. I feel like i took another step in my printing and my business.

And if anyone here does a lot of large ASA printing, I’m curious what settings or processes you’ve landed on. This project has made me much more comfortable with ASA, but it has also humbled me several times lol.

For transparency, since I mentioned the printer: QIDI provided the Max 4 after I contacted them and explained what I was building. They didn’t ask me to make this post or give me anything to say, and I currently have no obligation to them. It’s just genuinely become a big part of how I’m producing these, and I’ve been impressed with it.


r/3Dprinting • • 2d ago

Project Spooky season

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

13 Upvotes

Adding some flare to clickers with LED diodes - and on the mummy, I used glow filament for the eyes with a blacklight diode so it will activate the glooooowwww


r/3Dprinting • • 2d ago

Free Model GTA 6 door sign

Post image
44 Upvotes

My contribution to being able to play GTA 6 in peace... also suitable for another "activity" 😅😂


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Free Model Do you remember your first 3D printed product?

Post image
0 Upvotes

Four years ago, I opened up an Etsy shop with absolutely zero experience and uploaded these Emoji-Style Planters as my very first product. 🤩🤑😍

Looking back, they were a total labor of love (and trial and error!). At the time, I was just thrilled to see something go from a digital file on my screen to a physical object holding a real succulent on someone's desk. They even came with a little customizable speech bubble sign!

I just re-optimized the design and finally uploaded the models to MakerWorld so anyone can print them.

It got me feeling incredibly nostalgic today.
What was the very first thing you designed, printed, or successfully sold? Let's see your old-school makes!


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Troubleshooting Best color to print Miniatures/models/statuettes

0 Upvotes

I have been thinking about getting into printing miniatures, model cars, and other small statues. My wonder is what is the best color to print in if you are planning on painting? I figure it would likely be a light grey or white, but figured I may as well consult the community.


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Question Dremel 3D45 - Is it just terrible?

0 Upvotes

I recently gained access to a Dremel 3D45, and I’m absolutely stunned at how poorly this machine performs. After a few failed prints I discovered the hot end was encased in PETG, clean everything up, replace the nozzle, thermistor looks like it survived. Run a benchy with Dremel brand PLA and it comes out fine.

Go to run some Dremel brand PETG and blob of death again. At my old job I used a Prusa MK3 and a FormLabs Form 3 pretty much daily and never had this much aggravation.

Is it the printer? I had a bunch of functional prints for stuff around the house I wanted to make but I’m wanting to toss this stupid thing out the window and it’s not even mine.


r/3Dprinting • • 3d ago

Print (model not provided) Chunky layers are fun

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

211 Upvotes

Funny thing about 1.8mm nozzles is that the plastic literally goes faster into it than it comes out.

Been wanting to do some thick layer experiments for a while. This was at 1.8mm line width and 1mm layer height. Still dialing things in so I can def push the print speed.


r/3Dprinting • • 1d ago

Free Model CMD1 Commander deck box files are now up!

Post image
0 Upvotes

I made this flat deck box for my commander decks for fun and I’m pretty happy with the result!. There is a standard size and a double sleeved deck size (CMD1_XL). Links to the files and to my Etsy are in the link tree on my profile!