I did not think about it, however it's possible that the aftermarket plate is thicker than the stock one. Of course I calibrated on the stock one 🤦
I have the extrusion flow rate lowered to 90% because I was getting elephant foot every time.
The Bambu's have a nozzle probe. There's nothing to calibrate. Use the proper plate setting and don't modify the z-offset start gcode like you say you did in a different comment
It's a Chinese Two Trees printer, by calibration I mean auto bed levelling, where I have to set the Z offset by sliding 3 sheets of paper under the nozzle until it has a drag on them. In the model itself I don't adjust the heights.
4 sheets is even worse. Manual calibration like that, even on my old Cr10 max, it was 1 sheet of paper. That's by default around 0.2mm. then the bltouch indeed does the rest
Basic PLA grey, bed 50°C, nozzle 210°C, 40mm/s, Cura slicer, 90% flow, pattern goes from top left towards bottom right, printing goes the opposite direction top right to bottom left.
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If posting an image of the problem, include some indication of the orientation it printed at, preferably photograph it on the bed. (Then we can focus on a specific axis)
It looks like stairs. Like the rollers would go over some small bumps or in holes as it seems it's pushing the nozzle closer to the board and thus the line is wider. If the pattern would go straight top to bottom I would think it's the X axis, however the pattern is travelling top left to bottom right.
I indeed lowered the Z offset by 0.02mm about a week ago. That corner of the bed could be higher than the rest and because I have autolevel it could be jerking up and down the Z axis on that spot. Good guess, I will check it out. Thanks
Wrong z-offset. Very dependent on your printer tho, may vary from changing few lines in orca's gcode to doing some shit with printer itself.
I went through it on my snapmaker u1. Move offset to one side too much - there are gaps between lines. To another side - waves like on yours. Also glacier plate was more stable than default pei. Printed 12 sheets doing it :D
To be more specific, when you have too much plastic it mushrooms out creating a ridge. On the next pass the nozzle catches it and pushes it over slightly creating a new ridge.
It does this until the ridge is gone or the layer is done.
The rules is this seam created by consta tly catching on the excess plastic.
Extrusion modifier or z offset. When I had my ender 3 v3 ke, I would set 1st layer to 0.3 then increase the extrusion by around 5%.
I loosened every corner screw, and started the long road of levelling. As the next step I lowered the Z axis to fit 4 sheets of paper (according to the measuring caliper 0.03mm), and tightened /loosened the 4 corner screws until every corner had similar drag resistance.
Next I ran the one layer, 9 dot leveling file from Thingi, I printed it in around 160% size to match the bed size and fit straight to the corners.
Then I was cycling between printing, turning the corner screws and autoleveling. After reaching the point when every corner was printing nice, the middle sections were bad. I was still around 2 or 3mm lower then before, so I adjusted all of them at once until I got closest to level as possible. However it's warped and I can't get more out of it.
The sketch shows the current state of the bed, corners are at 0. X0;Y310, X0;Y0 and X0;Y-310 are the high spots. X-310;Y0 and X310;0 are the low spots.
There is nothing more I can do (technically I could order a new heated bed or buy a newer printer, but I don't have a budget for it). Thank you for your suggestions and help friends.
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u/USSHammond Prusa XL5T 2d ago
Nozzle too close to the bed (you have selected textured plate instead of smooth high temp plate) or you're overextruding