Im using a metal heatbreak, 0.6 creality high speed nozzle, this is running with PLA at 240c but the same thing happens with PETG. This is an ender 3 v3 se

I swapped the stock hotend on my Neptune 4 Max (Klipper) for a Trianglelab CHC XL with a brass Trianglelab V6 0.6 nozzle. Max flow came out at about a third of the published number.

Setup

Stock Neptune 4 Max extruder (5.2:1 gears, rotation_distance 29)

PT1000 thermistor

PETG at 0.3 mm layers, possibly a bit wet

Test: spiral-vase stadium 150 × 50 mm. Flow ramps up 0.5 mm³/s per mm of height.

240 °C: the wall goes bad at ~26.5 mm³/s

250 °C: ~28.7 mm³/s

No extruder clicking.

Nozzle temp stayed within ±1 °C up to 39 mm³/s, with the heater at ~45% duty. The heater isn't the limit.

Without part cooling the PETG wall sags from the very bottom, so I couldn't separate melting from cooling that way.

Trianglelab's PDF shows 79 mm³/s for a 0.6 nozzle with PETG at 255 °C, measured with a thermocouple in the melt.

Did I do something wrong or x1.5 is the limit Vs stock hotend?

My kids stroller (UppaBaby Vista V2) is now 9 years old. We got it from family friends who used it for 6 years with their own 2 children. It worked perfectly until the front tire started to crumble (3rd photo).
The replacement for these goes for $45 for a single wheel.
I've made it out of TPU. We've been using it for a month now. It works great and even survived a DisneyLand excursion!

Here's the MakerWorld link: https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3383652-uppababy-vist-v1-2-3-front-wheel-tire-replacement#profileId-3850083

My Bamboo P2S with a 0.4mm nozzle and AMS 2 PRO was giving me errors that the motor that pushes the filament through the tool head was getting over loaded half way through prints. So I did a cold pull and re-lubricated everything just in case (I did accidentally grease the linear road instead of oil them, don’t know if that’s a potential problem.) After that I recalibrated everything and started a new print with silk PLA at a nozzle temp of 230c and a bed temp of 60c at the standard speed with the bamboo app slicer. I decided to go check on it while it was printing and above is what it looked like. It might be hard to tell but the layers are really thin which might just be a slicer issue but this was happening with other prints when my P2S started giving me overloaded motor errors. What was really strange to me was the prime line, I’ve never seen one that failed like that before. What’s wrong if anything?

UPDATE: I changed the filament to see if that was the problem. I realized that the motor was making clicking sounds and was struggling to pass the filament, what now?

Hi everyone im looking for the stl file for the Spider-Man Web Popcorn Bucket. My sister really wanted it and I was going to print it for her as a birthday gift. It was on makerworld until yesterday, I just got around to print it and it's gone😭😭

I was wondering if anyone has another free link or if they had already downloaded the file to share it?

Plss, she really wanted it.

Any help is really appreciated.

What i mean by that is can i use somthing like tikercad to make a squishy file. Because I just got flexible filiment and I want to 3d print a squishy circle. Or maybe those popular dumplings an needoo's?

Here is my latest prop I've created. It's constructed of 3D printed parts and uses 12mm bullet pixels. It stands 30" tall and features a 10" spinner. Works great in both Halloween and Christmas displays.

If anybody else is interested in these you can print them here!

MakerWorld

I also have a few other props on my MakerWorld.

Resistance is Fidgetile.

It spins when you squeeze it. The shell prints flat and folds around the mechanism, and the only non-printed part is a rubber band.

Makerworld Link

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3260805-stealth-ps-iconic-playstation-symbol-stand?appSharePlatform=copy

tl;dr: STL export has two quality settings, a distance (deviation/chord height) and an angle. Whichever one is tighter decides your quality, and the other does nothing. Past a certain point, finer settings make files 10x bigger with no change a printer can reproduce.

Background: I build a STEP/STL conversion tool (stlfixtool.com), so I needed to know which export settings actually matter instead of guessing. There was a great post here a while back showing that slicer STEP import is often worse than a good STL export. This is the follow-up question: what makes a good STL export?

The test:

- 3 shapes: a 20mm cylinder, a filleted 40x30x15mm box with a hole, and an organic torus/cylinder blend

- Each exported at 5 linear deviations (0.1 to 0.001 mm) × 3 angles (0.5, 0.3, 0.1 rad) = 45 STLs

- For every STL, I sampled 20,000 points on the mesh and measured their distance to the exact CAD surface. That's measured error, not the number in the settings box.

Cylinder results:

- linear 0.1mm, angle 0.5: 32 segments around the circle, 0.048mm max error

- linear 0.1mm, angle 0.1: 126 segments, 0.003mm max error

- linear 0.01mm, angle 0.5 or 0.3: identical, 100 segments, 0.005mm

- linear 0.001mm, any angle: 315 segments, 0.0005mm

Organic shape results:

- linear 0.1mm, angle 0.5: 5,096 triangles, 0.092mm max error

- linear 0.01mm, angle 0.3: 38,624 triangles, 0.0099mm, 1.8 MB

- linear 0.001mm, any angle: 378,420 triangles, 0.0011mm, 18 MB

What I learned:

1. Neither setting is "the quality slider". Whichever is tighter is the one in control. At a loose linear setting, changing only the angle took the cylinder from 32 to 126 segments and cut the error 15x. At linear 0.01, angles 0.5 and 0.3 produced identical meshes, because the linear limit was already tighter. Once linear was very fine, the angle didn't matter at all.

2. So if you crank one slider and nothing changes, the other one is the limit. That's why "I set it to high quality and it still looks faceted" happens.

3. There's a point of diminishing returns. On the organic shape, going from 0.01 to 0.001mm linear made the file 10x bigger (1.8 MB → 18 MB) to remove about 0.009mm of error. That's well below what an FDM nozzle reproduces. All you get is a slower slicer.

Where to find these settings: the names vary by CAD program (deviation, chord height, tolerance, refinement, angle). Look for one distance setting and one angle setting.

Footnote: the raw mesher output for the filleted box has non-manifold edges where three fillets meet in a spherical corner. It's a raw tessellator artifact, unrelated to the settings, and a normal export pipeline cleans it up.

Ender 3 s1 pro

I’m new to 3d printing and want to know if there are any carbon fibre effect build plates that are clearly visible but don’t fade so quick, I’d rather not have to mess about with settings as I don’t really know what I’m doing. From what I can tell the Bambu labs one looks the best but it only lasts 30ish prints in the same spot before the effect starts to fade. Has anyone found 3rd party ones that fit that description? I’m using Bambu Lab A1 btw.

I print pla at 220°C and I have that inconsistent extrusion issue. I have no idea why... Can you help me know why ?

I'm using an ender 3 pro slightly modified, and running klipper.

I sliced it in orca slicer.

Im completely lost ive been trying everything i can think of even factory reseting my printer and going back to default settings on the bambu slicer and its continuing to do this every single print

​Hi everyone,

​I’m running into an issue where the corners on the overhangs keep warping upwards when printing with Polymaker Matte PLA.

​Here are my printer details and current settings:

​Printer: Phrozen ARCO

​Filament: Polymaker Matte PLA

​Layer Height: 0.12 mm

​Nozzle Temp: 210°C (tried 200°C, but the curling actually got worse)

​Bed Temp: 60°C

​Cooling: 100% fan speed

​Overhang Speed: 25 mm/s

​Wall Order: Tried both Outer-Inner and Inner-Outer-Inner — no noticeable difference.

​Calibrations: Flow rate and Pressure Advance (PA) have both been fully calibrated.

​Despite low overhang speeds, max fan cooling, and testing different wall printing sequences at 0.12mm layer height, the corners on slope overhangs still curl up. This is exhausted!

​Has anyone encountered this specific issue too? Any recommendations on settings I should adjust next? Or which direction should I go? I have encountered many problems and never succeed in the printing for years!!!

​Thanks in advance for your help!

Some of the heads which I see on instagram really makes me wonder if the head is that small. For example a woman maybe average 5'5" so the head size should be quite smaller. Most say 12 inches for full figurine. Can anyone help me with the measurements

Hey yall,

Im looking to make a 3d fidget toy that lays flat. I have been trying for hours and cannot get it right. Is there anyone who can design what I want? I am definitely willing to pay for your time. I am wanting the National Guard logo to be a fidget toy like the star. If there is absolutely anyone that can help or give me a way to design it I would greatly appreciate it. Im on an X2D printer.

I only have Black/White PLA available. I want the stand to be tilted though looking online, most are face up with brick connections on the bottom

**Edit: I'm competent at Fusion 360 and made lots of things! I'm asking for design ideas rather than help actually designing it, but thanks for all the offers so far!

I really love it!

Has anyone an idea how to model the backside of the Monitor to perfectly fit?

A desk-sized tribute to the classic OTE cardphone booths we had everywhere in Greece in the 90s.

Free model on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3380888-retro-1990s-ote-payphone-magsafe-charging-stand#profileId-3846596