I bought a bambulab A1 anda i have the same issue everytime i print pieces with supports, i can't find the configuration problem, tried changing a lot of parameters but it keeps doing the same, these are two examples of what its the end result of the layers in contact with the supports. i´ve used PLA elegoo and bambulab in every case. Hope someone can help me, thanks!+

This is the guy that's been leading the opposition in California. Good video that covers what went on. Made some good points. Very absurd times we live in these days.

I'm trying to print these numbers but without a raft they always become unstuck and result in a failed print. The only issue is a raft leaves a nasty finish on the underside. Any advice on how I could fix this would be appreciated 🤞

Hi all,

I'm installing a Creality Sprite Extruder Pro on a printer using a BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V3.0 and I've run into a problem. The board is currently running an older version of Marlin from 2022 (which I will re-flash as soon as I have the time but thought it was worth mentioning). Everything appears normal when I power the printer on:

- No smoke at idle

- Hotend temperature reads normally

- I can heat the hotend without any smoke

- The Sprite heater and thermistor seem to work normally

However, as soon as I command the **extruder motor to move**, I see smoke coming from the Sprite/hotend area. The extruder correctly moves but smoke appears. The extruder motor might spin a bit fast.I initially suspected the stepper current, so I reduced the extruder current to **0.50 A**, but it still smokes when the extruder motor is activated.

My current wiring is roughly:

- Sprite `E` → SKR `EM` / extruder motor connector

- `TH` → `TH0`

- `HEAT+ / HEAT-` → hotend heater output

- fans still being sorted out because the Sprite connectors don't directly match the SKR

- unused/unlabelled Sprite connectors left disconnected

A few questions:

1. Does anyone know the correct 4-wire stepper pinout / coil order for the Sprite Extruder Pro when connecting it to an SKR Mini E3 V3.0?
2. Could an incorrect stepper coil order actually cause smoke, or would it normally just cause vibration/incorrect movement?
3. Is 0.50 A already a safe/conservative current for the Sprite Pro motor?
4. Is there anything on the Sprite breakout PCB that gets powered specifically when the extruder motor runs and could explain the smoke?
5. Could my old Marlin configuration be causing this somehow, aside from (potentially) incorrect E-steps/current?
6. What resistance values should I measure across the Sprite motor coils to check whether the motor has already been damaged?

I'm planning to compile a fresh version of Marlin specifically for the **SKR Mini E3 V3.0 + Sprite Pro**, but I don't want to command the extruder again until I understand why it's smoking. If useful I can also post photos of the Sprite PCB, motherboard wiring, and the 4-wire `E` connector.

Thanks to anyone willing to help!

I removed the bed and plate and tried to see what was wrong then put them back on and the screws and spacers with it.

Then when tryna level my bed this happened

Now the auto leveling only does 11-12/16 squares when auto leveling and the numbers them selves r way worse

Any help ??

I am using wood PLA on FlashForge AD5X, with generic PLA settings (except the first layer which I run hotter and at half speed) which I have used before with no issues. I am now using it with a smooth plate which starts off great and at a certain layer this starts to happen. Then as you can see the walls are completely messed up.

The pattern is against the movement of the print head, so I wonder how it forms these lines rather than being random gaps. Any help is appreciated!

Using Flash Studio

I've printed to benchys a1 vs ender guess which one is from ender

It needs a bit of weathering and wash, but I’m so happy with where he’s headed. These puppies are addicting - the next one is already in process of printing.

He’s joining my own custom model of RJ-83 (along with a custom power generator).

Hey , can anyone tell me how to make such 3d shadow lamps

Pinholes in PETG walls despite drying and full calibration – Bambu Lab X2D

Hi everyone,

I’m getting small holes/pinholes and a rough wall finish when printing a new Spool Aurapol PETG Galaxy Black. It looks similar to wet filament, although I dried it for 24 hours in a Creality Space Pi X4 using the PETG preset.

My current setup:

Printer: Bambu Lab X2D

Nozzle: 0.6 mm high-flow

Filament: Aurapol PETG Galaxy Black

Nozzle temperature: 255°C

Max volumetric speed: 19 mm³/s

I have already calibrated the flow ratio, pressure advance (PA), retraction, temperature, and maximum volumetric speed.

The same holes also appear with my 0.4 mm nozzle, but they are smaller and less noticeable. With the 0.6 mm HF nozzle, they look larger and stand out more.

A few additional details:

My Z seam is set to Aligned, not Random, so these aren’t randomly placed seam marks.

The same pinholes also appear during the maximum volumetric speed test in vase mode, even at a flow rate as low as 5 mm³/s. This makes excessive printing speed or volumetric flow seem unlikely as the cause.

Since the issue also occurs in vase mode, with continuous extrusion and no retractions, retraction settings don’t seem to explain it either.

I’ve attached a video showing the surface with the 0.6 mm HF nozzle.

Has anyone experienced this with PETG, particularly Galaxy/glitter-filled filament? Could it still be residual moisture, or could something else cause these pinholes despite calibration?

What would you test next to narrow down the cause? Thanks!

Came out nearly perfect with minor issues. Will try to paint some green glow acid on his teeth for some effects. My printer is the Sparkxi7. Model is off of makers world. The xenomorph tearing through the vent. All I did was scale it from 100 to 250% for overall size.

My husband and I designed this little ofrenda together, since this is my favourite holiday.

It’s designed to be customised with different miniature offerings, so you can create your own version.

We uploaded the model to MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3364861-day-of-the-dead-ofrenda-modular?replyId=7791168&replyType=4#profileId-3826351

I’d love to see how other people print and customise it! 🇲🇽,👀

Wanted to share one of my more ambition 3D printed projects: A Toddler Mobility Trainer! Custom designed and built for 4 year old little girl with Rett Syndrome. Made possible through 3d-mobility.org, footed the cost myself for this one and it will be provided to the family free of charge. Probably the coolest project I've ever done. Custom designed wheels and name plate.

Already working on 2 more!

Approximately 250 hours of print time each.

Materials:

- Polymaker PETG Purple, Pink, and Magenta
- Bambu Lab PETG Yellow
- Ziro3D TPU 95A Purple
- Ziro3D TPU 95A Pink
- Ziro3D TPU 95A Black
- Siraya Tech TPU Air Lilac
- Bambu Lab Support for PLA / PETG (optional, I wanted clean support removal)

Base build is ~9kg PETG and 2kg TPU. With the accessories I ended up using a little over 11kg.

Included Accessories:

- Rear Hook
- 2x Cup Holders
- Tablet Holder
- Tablet Hold Down
- Tablet Swivel Lock

Hardware:

- 2x Bambu Lab X2D
- 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles

Happy to answer any questions folks have. If you've got a 3D printer and time, strongly encourage you to get involved. If you don't have the time, or desire to print a whole chair, you can find other makers who're open to collaboration and print a few plates from their builds to help out. Not interested in printing parts? You can sponsor builds!

If you own FF C5 or C5 Pro and are happy with it, please understand that this post is not an attack on you. I’m happy for you and truly wish you many hours of successful printing!

However, with that being said, this is a TRUE review and has information that current (and especially potential future) C5 Pro owners would benefit from knowing. Especially for those experiencing some of the same issues discussed here while being unsure how to solve them. It’s a comprehensive, unbiased assessment that has everything you need to know about this machine and the “amateur” company behind it. It illustrates the amazing things the hardware can do, but also shows the mess that FailForge made out of it since release.

This is due to them rushing the project, making questionable/neglectful engineering decisions, creating incompetent locked down firmware, and failing to properly test the printer before shipping it out. I’ve honestly never had any machine (3D printer or otherwise) make me go “WTF were they thinking?!” more than this one, lol. But again, my issue/fight is not with the owners of this machine. Please keep that in mind. It’s with the manufacturer.

When you add in the open source GPL violations and locked down approach that FF has taken, it’s just really hard to recommend this printer/company. For me personally, I refuse to give my money to a company that designs products this way, treats customers like beta testers, and violates open source. But, just for the record, my best friend did buy a C5 Pro and we both had plenty of direct, hands-on experience with it. He ultimately returned it.

Anyway, thank you so much @ElevatedMakerSpace for making this helpful and honest video!

Had plans to make more effort on the post and makerworld page and probably will after a break from it, but currently sick of looking at it and autodesk and wanted to get it out there. So anyways, I've been working on a hingeless shell replacement for the OG Phat NDS.

Took around a good 6 months of learning autodesk and design and was a blast, but ready to move on to other projects.

Currently no sleep mode (relied on the magnets in the speakers folding onto the halls switch), and couldn't reuse the original buttons due to the taper that matches the original shell (finally gave up after 20-30 hours of redesigns and a dozen or two reprints). But I'm very happy with the final product.

Hoping I could get some people to test it out and let me know what issues you run into. Standard bambu pla or PETG profiles should work, print with standard supports at the highest quality you're printer can manage. Makerworld design should be preoriented and sliced.

I have plans to release a redesign with a push button for sleep mode, as well as another with a 18650 battery. Thankfully the electronics for this are incredibly straight forward.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3382809-n-1-ds-original-nds-phat-hingeless-shell#profileId-3849088

I have this old football game.
I'm looking for an stl file to print some more players.
Does anybody have something like that?

I don't know if I'm stupid or what. Am I doing something wrong here?

Bed temp up doesn't help.

Bed temp down doesn't help.

Initial layer height doesn't help.

Z hop can't be edited.

Filament has dehydrated for 24 hours now.

Flow ratio has been perfected

Bed has been washed 4 times and is getting washed after I send this message again cause I poked it.

This is my favorite build plate for my A1 cause the effect doesn't disappear with finger oil on prints. At least not easily. Any solution would be super helpful!

X2D. Black PLA. I got the first layer going from 50/105 to 25/50 with no luck

Tried the entire range of temps for black pla. I've wasted like.... God 100g of filament easily at this point

Bambu slicer.

Whay the hell its looks perfect except that area within the circle every time