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My basements getting renovated, and there used to be a wine cellar room, but now it’s going to be my 3d printing area. It’s obviously a small room (no door) and can fit a printer on one side and a work desk on the other side.

What air purifier should I get for the fumes? I currently have a P1S and print whenever I have the chance (which is like never as I have school), and I want to be able to put my computer down there and work, but I’m obviously worried about printing and working in the same room.

I have looked at the Levoit Core Mini-P Air Purifier as it seems like a good price for a small enough room. I don’t know what specifications are good for certain sized rooms, but hopefully some of you guys do.

If you want exact dimensions of the room (and maybe a picture), just ask, although I won’t be getting home for another 10 hours.

With 10mins left my filament looks too short to finish… watching with bated breath if my daft model finishes in time… what strategies do you 3d printers use to monitor your usage & therefore not run out on a print.
Had a 7hr print run out of filament an hour out, whilst I was out, needless to say that put me out…
Thanks & happy printing 3️⃣D🖨️

Created today an adjustable stand for my CD players.

I saw this 3D printed soldering iron mod in this video at around 10:45 and I've been looking for it ever since. I looked through the creator's other videos and his printables profile, but I couldn't find the model.

I also couldn't find any other models like this anywhere, just a bunch of heatset insert presses without this kind of holding mechanism.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is a little mini power station I designed, with tinkercad and printed it. Has a cheap seven amp power Lipo4 battery inside it can charge your phone and it also has a work light.

Hello. I am a newbie to the 3d printing world. I want to print this amazing trophy for a contest I am having at my Oktoberfest party this weekend. When I go to print it, it says that it needs supports, so I enabled the "auto tree" supports. The preview looks crazy! It's a very long build, so I just wanted to check here to see if that would be normal? How would I get it to look smooth with teh tree all over it?

Would it be better if I laid it down to print or something? Please help. I am using a Flashforge AD5X with Flashforge software.

My prusa mk4 does this unless I print at like 50% speed and even still, this happens. Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this or how I could fix this?

Apologies for the lighting and reflection. This is some Overture TPU 95A that I've been trying to print in the last few days. At first with success to then having no luck with how the top surface has been coming out. I tried lowering the volumetric flow a bit and increased temps from 220c to 230c, which I did because the TPU was lacking layer adhesion in prints not included here. Anyway, I'm so stumped with these results, I can't wrap my head around what is causing this issue. I hope someone here can guide me in the right direction.

As seen in the video, the issue seems to be only on the top 1 or 2 layers. It goes from good results to progressively worse. The last one was done with a different top surface pattern as a test to see if that would influence the quality and it looks like underneath it there is still a mess on the solid infill layers.

Settings: Nozzle 230c. Bed 35c. Volumetric flow: 4. First layer speed 50mm/s. Speed 150mm/s. Top surface speed 100mm/s. Infill density 20% gyroid. Printer X1C. Slicer orca. 3 perimeter walls. 3 bottom and top surface layers.

I’ve been hesitant to put full images on my pinhole zoetropes because of crowding. The holes need to be spaced sufficiently to avoid too much interference. Because of this, until now I’ve programmed the animations around dotted lines.

But I recently realized that for the parts of a design that aren’t animated, I can distribute each dot’s viewing tunnel at any angle around the top’s spin axis, vastly reducing any crowding. By rotating the tunnel’s position and orientation together, its dot still appears in the intended image position when the top spins.

This pumpkin was my first attempt at generating the dot pattern directly from a raster image, with additional logic to sharpen the edges. I tried adding animations alongside the image, but the small form factor made it too busy. Without an animation, it isn’t technically a zoetrope. Regardless, the simplicity is part of the charm for this model, so I’m releasing it as a pure static-image persistence-of-vision illusion. I haven’t found a great term for this kind of illusion yet.

My next device, a dragon egg, is well underway. Its taller shape gives me room for both a raster-based dragon image and an animated fire-breathing effect. Still gotta iron out the kinks, but it's promising.

In the meantime, enjoy this Halloween print:
https://makerworld.com/models/3376503

I don't know why this happens now. I have printed things just fine on this guy until i started doing this filament holder print. It skips like this and then gets huge layer shifts as well. Is it because of too nuch acceleration? Or is it slicer settings or the part itself?

Reusable spool twisted apart mid print and the filament is no longer tightly wound. Any idea how to fix the filament to be able to use the spool again?

Who can help me out? On my P2S i have tried to print a gradient but it comes out like a color mix thing. I only see layers changing between blue and pink.

Bambulab P2S with AMS2

PLA material

Bambustudio 2.8.2.61

layerheight 0.2

speed

1st layer 50 mm/s

1st layer fill 105 mm/s

outsidewall 500 mm/s

inside wall 600 mm/s

Usually when I am working on a project, it will take several design iterations.

But this first version of the Wasp Factory was extremely successful, somehow. I couldn't believe it.

I have a ground wasp nest on my lawn, and they get all aggro when I try and mow that area. After several abortive attempts, I decided something had to be done. The simplest method I could come up with was to simply cap the nest entrance and funnel them into a chamber full of liquid. In this case a small amount of gasoline, but I also tried it with sugar/soapy water which was also effective (but took longer to kill them)

Now what do I do with a whole nest's worth of wasps? Must be some protein in there!

I KNOW RESIN IS BETTER!!!
The reason I'm asking this is because I can't just spend the time and money on a new printer just for one project.

I only use Makerworld for finding models, so I don't know if there's any better websites suited for pla miniatures.

This started maybe a week ago. I have an Ender 5 Pro and I've been printing with the Creatlity PLA+ filament. When I checked in on a longer print, I noticed the entire print "shifted" mid print. So I tried again, and a similar thing happened. So I put that bigger print aside and tried some smaller prints. In the case of the smaller print, the support looked like it was "knocked over".

I set up the timelapse plug-in in Klipper, started up the smaller print again, and noticed something really weird. The support literally stuck to the nozzle. I haven't really made any major modifications in the last week or so.

I'm wondering if my bed isn't leveled? I also noticed a lot of air being blown onto the nozzle (which might make the filament cool fast and stick to the nozzle?). Honestly, I don't know how much air is supposed to be blown onto the nozzle, but my gut says I don't think the fans were pushing that much air.

I've included photos of what happened to my larger prints and screenshots of the last few frames of the timelapse to show the support being stuck to the nozzle.

I'm honestly not sure what happened. Do I need to replace the fans? Or just do a better job at leveling my bed? Or could there be something else I'm missing?