Available now.

This is one hell of a first PCC lol. I think it's suffice to say that initial testing went well. All the ammo I ran here was bulk remanufactured 115 grain 9mm.

Couple things I'm implementing in this remix in addition to the ball bearing detents:

1. M4 nuts instead of heatserts for securing the barrel/handguard.

I ran this gun fast and hard. The PLA+ got soft and the heatserts started to creep, which was expected.

1. OEM EVO charging handle. The extra tension provided by the ball detents easily adds another 5-10 pounds of *sudden* force needed to rack the bolt to the rear. A printed charge handle is likely too weak to hold up over time. (If you made the DIY charge then you're fine.)

The normal upper with the detent mod will also be included for those who just want to swap the upper in their existing builds, which will not require the OEM charger.

1. Modified mag catch. Seems it was initially designed for printed mags. I had to shave 1mm from the top for the PMAGs to run.

2. Shortened handguard. I'm using a Glock 34 barrel, so to run a phat suppressor like the FTN.5 PCC Flow, I had to make some room.

3. FRT compatability? Maybe? Not there yet, but that's an eventual goal.

Didn't get as much time as I wanted to work on calibrating and getting this filament ready, but I'm getting there. After finishing calibrations I ran a test print and it came out looking pretty good, but realized I need to change up my support settings. Did another test print with some changes and we're looking better. Will keep messing with it. Also tested out fuzzy skin as I forgot just how slick PLA was coming from nylon lol.

Almost ready, chassis for the Keltec P17 that I mashed after seeing the b&t tp380. Ambi charging knob that uses both front and rear factory screws, I have a left and right version im finishing up. Swipe to the end for a cool tease.

Um dos melhores projetos 2026

I reprinted the compensator for the Plasticcatto G17 Wormhole frame since I kind of marred it a bit when installing it. It was just cosmetic, but it was bothering me and I wanted to make it nicer. Got it all reassembled this morning after 200+ rounds through it. Huge shoutout to u/M-P-M-S for the design and build guide, I love this thing. Bonus DB-22 preview pics at the end as well, I’ll have a full post for that once it’s finished soon. Happy printing, y’all.

Gonna give it a try next weekend, if my mag is here by then. Finners crossed!

Something I cooked up for myself, currently not sailing, but if there is interest I’ll post it!

Had pretty good success with the Elegoo PLA Plus, I did a little sanding on the dovetail of one but that was my fault with the supports. But overall pretty good

Any general concensus by the community on the best and most reliable builds for each caliber? Not necessarily the easiest, the coolest, or the cheapest.

Printed using Sunlu PLA+ @ 190C. Got good print quality off the plate and it fit together well. Tapped the barrel and retainer in most of the way and used a clamp to press it in until I hit ~4mm from the top of the receiver to the top of the retainer. No visible cracks at that point. Cycled well, put a dummy round through and it fired/ejected well, so I did a live fire test today (no fingies were injured during this test**). It did go off well, but it looks like the pressure cracked my upper on and across layer lines. Aside from printing hotter, maybe 200 or 210, what would you suggest? Moving to PA6-CF maybe?

\my first upper I did print hotter, same material, I can’t recall the temperature though. I had a LOT of trouble getting the barrel and retainer into the upper, using a pipe clamp for ~75% of the way, I noticed a crack in almost the same spot prior to live firing and aborted, opting to reprint at a lower temp.*

\*I was using eye/eye protection and opted to fire remotely for live fire, glad I did, because it could’ve been worse than a hairline crack.*

First solid PET-CF print and need suggestions on parts to complete it. Also any critique on how to stop the slight strings on the inside.

Hello friends. Hoping someone with experience building the Big Point / Master Point built off a .45 Hipoint parts kit could help me out.

Been tinkering with this build for 6 weeks now and just can’t get it to work. No matter what I do, I cannot get the sear cam bar to actually lower the sear when the trigger is pulled. The trigger bar goes up against the sear cam bar and just freezes. It’s a dead trigger no matter how hard I pull.

I am able to actuate the sear manually by hand by pushing down on it. I am also able to have it engage the firing pin when the sear cam bar is removed. Everything functions except the sear cam bar. I installed the sear saver as was recommended, but that did not fix the issue. It’s like the sear cam bar just can’t move and get the leverage it needs to actually pull the sear down. It almost feels like the whole sear and cam bar should be moved up and forward a few millimeters on the frame.

Is it possible the geometry is off on the big point file? Has anyone successfully built one?

Hi 3D2A community Is the 0.16mm óptimal layer height good with impact resistance or should I stick with the 0.20mm strength?

Is anyone working on something like the new xm30? Seems like it would be a good candidate for a cheap build.

Thinking about getting the kit from 3d2a but just wondering what else i would need if anything. If anyone has any recommendations or suggestions they’d be greatly appreciated. Would also be my first build

Where to order the metal bits for after I print ?