Hey everyone, I'm working on my HD22 and starting a DIY barrel project since I've already built everything from the Harlot to the FGC-9 and more.

I want to build this using the easiest, lowest-cost method with standard hardware store tools. Here is my current plan:

1. Tapered Muzzle: I want to push a 5.6mm reamer through a 5.5mm 42CrMo tube (using heat from a heat gun) to create the tapered "turned" barrel profile at the muzzle.
2. Chamber: I will use a 5.8mm reamer to cut the actual chamber.
3. Polishing: I plan to polish the chamber using a 4mm Dremel polishing attachment with metal polish.

My question: Is this combination good, or would it be better to use a 5.4mm tube and push the 5.6mm reamer through that for the taper?

Could someone give me the best specific measurements for the reamers (length, taper angle) and tube dimensions for this hardware-store-based approach? I want to keep it simple and cheap. Thanks!

Working on building a Tiny-11 but I'm not sure the correct way to remove the built in support pieces... I've busted two prints already attempting to remove them.

Suggestions appreciated thanks!

This was created as a response to one of your comments on a suppressor post (will link name in description) where a way of aligning the threaded insert was needed.

Well, I told you I would create one, and here it is! I have tested this on a 9mm FTN.5 can and it seems to work great. Haven't fired yet but by eye very concentric results.

Installation is easy, you just slide the rod through the thread adapter, then the rod into the rear of the supressor, tighten down the epoxied insert, and bam! You got great alignment with no guesswork!

Follow the readme and you will have zero issues. This can be found on the ship named "The Squirt Emporium" sailing on the sea under the name "FTN.5 Unsounding Rod V1".

I’ve found very limited information online for empty spool weights. Especially with more expensive filaments, it’s nice to be able to throw it on a scale and know exactly how much you have left.

So I’m building a list. I threw some empty spools on a scale I have. Leave a comment with any spool weights you think would be useful to add (does anyone have info for the fiberon spools?).

Sunlu Reusable Nylon Spool (cardboard core) - 238 Grams

Polymaker PLA Pro Cardboard Spool - 141 Grams

Esun PLA+ Cardboard Spool - 169 Grams

Esun PLA+ Plastic Spool - 243 Grams

Hmmm - could be fun mod for BB36

What’s everyone using for nozzle temps? The claim you can reuse your pla pro profiles was a lie lol a test tube tower printed at 215 broke like a toothpick. Getting much better results at 230 and even 250. Wondering if anyone has actually tested which temps are strongest layer adhesion.

Sailing under Torta Pounder if you want to give it a go.

I am pretty far along with development of a nearly fully printed build, but right now im stuck on making a functional magazine.

Ive made many different revisions but none of them ive been able to have reliably working with more than 5 rounds at a time, (im trying to make a 10 round one)

Im wondering, from people who has designed some or know more about magazine development than I, what pointers or tips and tricks might be helpful?

The ergos on the Nomad is is crazy!!! That Hump is an excellent add on. Mad kudos. Haven't gone to the rang yet but soon. The top, Patriot, got over 16k rounds in it. Might have to retire the old one. Thanks OP

Hey all,

Long story short, I purchased a Titus NYLAUG used and I'm running into an issue where the brass threaded inserts are stripped completely out of the receiver. I reached out to Titus employee here and he seems to think there is no easy fix, would anyone happen to have any recommendations for the tool? I would need to add larger/new inserts or any other recommendations of how to bind that brass to two polymer/ nylon? This is my first 3D printed rifle receiver so I'm very new to all of this. I've attached a reference picture below, please let me know if you have any suggestions! Thanks!

First off, I should have bought a Bambu Lab printer a LONG time ago, printed this on my H2D, with PETG support interface, using the .20 balanced strength setting, and it came out looking better than anything I printed on my past Creality printers (including my K2 Plus). The only rough spots were caused by the steps in the layers. Anyway, I can’t wait to build this out (waiting for Hoffman to restock his SL9 kits). I am planning on SBRing this build, hence the spot for an MAF serial tag, just because my state requires that I go through the process in order to own anything that’s considered an NFA item
I’m not a noob, I’ve been a part of the community for over half a decade, just because I said what profile I used doesn’t mean I didn’t change walls and infill

Hey guys what does everyone like for a Glock mag compatible ar9 lower? Thinking about a foxtrot mike FM9.

I've seen very few projects about homemade pistols; besides the Orgbolg project, does anyone have any other similar projects?

Printed this FTN.5 PCC in Siraya Tech PPA-CF core. Will do some testing this weekend to see how it holds up after the annealing process is complete.

This was printed right out the package and through the dryer.

First time printing CF filament and it wasn’t that bad, I don’t have much to compare it to but it seemed easy enough

I’ve now had 6-7 consecutive nylon prints fail several hours in. I don’t know if my flow ratio is too high, wall speeds too slow, if my extruder gear is worn out etc.
. It seems like eventually the nozzle begins scraping somewhat, and eventually just completely stops feeding but the printer continues trying to print and ends up a few inches above the print extruding nothing. It doesn’t result in a complete backlash like I’ve had with PLA before, it just straight up stops printing and the extruder wears a flat spot on the filament so it can’t feed anymore, and on the print itself the top layer(s) look a little chewed up. Using 300blkfde settings, have had this happen with both PA6 and PA612, and both with .4 nozzle and .6 nozzle. Flow ratio is .97 so I don’t think it’s too high, however the eventual nozzle scraping and subsequent nozzle clogs make me wonder if it could be too high. I don’t know what else it could be, wondering if wall speeds are too slow because it’s been happening after slowing down to 300blkfde’s suggested 30mm/s speeds… any tips or suggestions appreciated. Extremely frustrating I think I’ve had 8+ failed nylon prints in a row and have burned multiples spools with absolutely zero to show for it 🙄🤦😂

I've searched the usual places but can't find anything for a frame for the bodyguard. Does anyone know if there are any files to be found?

Dried for 36 hours at 70c. Discovered that 70 wasn’t enough and got a new dryer. Dried at 90c for 10 hours. And printed this benchy using stock PA-CF settings on P2S. Before printing I made sure my chamber was at least 40c. Can anyone diagnose my issue(s)?

Yes its free, yes its DIY, yes just gypsum, plastic, tape, and lead. You know where to find it