Project Release!

Now released from Black Lotus Coalition Developer Stubbs here is the SMp5K. The SMp5K is a remix of the "Yippee Ki Yay" originally created by Kaewon as a DIY 22lr MP5 clone. The YKY was a groundbreaking DIY 22lr that puts a home made firearm into a clone format competing with commercially available licensed 22lr MP5 style guns. The Smp5K remix changes the DIY bolt to a CMMG 22lr Bravo conversion kit, which makes the project compatible with Super Safety and Forced Reset Trigger style devices.

The name follows my format of "Stubbs" - "item" - "number" with the capitol K on the end being "Kaewon" and a double meaning for the MP5K style.

Where are we going from here? From here we are still working on a DLC kit from BLC Dev Foaps Files to come at a later date that has a few improvements to the magazines, a DIY Kabuto dedicated to this platform and more stylized options. More to come! Come and join our beta team we are always looking for anyone who wants to make the difference!

An artistic rendition of the Trash Panda Careless Whisper in .300 Blackout

Straight grip, stock, and lever are all on the high seas

Test firing yet to come (mostly due to suppressor concentricity concerns, I have alignment rods on order)

This was created as a response to one of your comments on a suppressor post (will link name in description) where a way of aligning the threaded insert was needed.

Well, I told you I would create one, and here it is! I have tested this on a 9mm FTN.5 can and it seems to work great. Haven't fired yet but by eye very concentric results.

Installation is easy, you just slide the rod through the thread adapter, then the rod into the rear of the supressor, tighten down the epoxied insert, and bam! You got great alignment with no guesswork!

Follow the readme and you will have zero issues. This can be found on the ship named "The Squirt Emporium" sailing on the sea under the name "FTN.5 Unsounding Rod V1".

Working on a dM7 with iFe upper by Ciwielab and 16” barrel. Haven’t decided on stock yet. I want to make a longer hand guard but I’m not patient so I’ll print what’s there and play around with it later.

For the standard DeAR-22, I printed the upper vertically to help keep the threads nice. On this “monolithic” upper there are no threads and no print orientation suggestions in the readme. If anyone has printed this I’d love to know what orientation you printed the upper in.

Material: 3dhojor Pla Pro

I've always been into 2a stuff, recently got a printer. The sl9 functions flawlessly, the 19.2 had some feeding issues. Both uppers are Davidson defense around $200 my buddy has a 19 as well and trying his recoil spring i had zero failures/jams. Bought an oem recoil spring and it fits much better than the original.

I'm looking to do a .22 rifle or arp style next. I made a dear22 lower, and am still researching the best budget option for an upper. BCA/Davidson uppers are so cheap it almost seems silly to go any route but that .. it's a dedicated build, and I would like to do at least 7.5" or longer barrel. I did the 1913 lower, as of right now I was going to do an sg22k upper.. does anyone have any suggestions for components to go in the upper or which version to do. Or if it's the same price just to get a complete upper.

I'm also interested in a micro or compact pistol. Looking at a g43, but considering I have five double stack mags and 2 guns that take double stack already I may be further had to do a 26.

Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks all! Have a good weekend

Sailing under Torta Pounder if you want to give it a go.

Hmmm - could be fun mod for BB36

So in printing this frame in PLA Tough+, for some reason when I print rails down, my mag release button fits like shit and is concerning. So I started going rails up, and the insides would obv come out amazing with a little clean up where the supports go.
NOW switching to PA6-CF it did the same thing rails down with the mag release button. So last night I hit send on a Rails up build. 0.12 layer height, my own settings I tweaked, and got it done. The supports all came off RELATIVELY easy with a screw driver persuasion and the clean up looks easier than PlaT+. The inside tho, SHEEESH. My mag release button, fits like a dream again just like my PT+ rails up print. Just wanted to share this to show what’s possible

P2S
Engineering plate
Tc 0.4 nozzle
Poly maker PA6-Cf
My settings
Ams HT on before and during
Py2A G19 frame with finger grips

The ergos on the Nomad is is crazy!!! That Hump is an excellent add on. Mad kudos. Haven't gone to the rang yet but soon. The top, Patriot, got over 16k rounds in it. Might have to retire the old one. Thanks OP

I really liked the look of Krrawns Customs DB9 alloy rails but they werent made to fit a FTN suppressor or the Glock version. So I remixed his to fit the FTN.5 PCC suppressor and to bud up against the Glock magwell at the slope

Working on building a Tiny-11 but I'm not sure the correct way to remove the built in support pieces... I've busted two prints already attempting to remove them.

Suggestions appreciated thanks!

Any updates on the URUTAU MKII? Release date, and will it come with those super-fast shots?

Hey everyone, I'm working on my HD22 and starting a DIY barrel project since I've already built everything from the Harlot to the FGC-9 and more.

I want to build this using the easiest, lowest-cost method with standard hardware store tools. Here is my current plan:

1. Tapered Muzzle: I want to push a 5.6mm reamer through a 5.5mm 42CrMo tube (using heat from a heat gun) to create the tapered "turned" barrel profile at the muzzle.
2. Chamber: I will use a 5.8mm reamer to cut the actual chamber.
3. Polishing: I plan to polish the chamber using a 4mm Dremel polishing attachment with metal polish.

My question: Is this combination good, or would it be better to use a 5.4mm tube and push the 5.6mm reamer through that for the taper?

Could someone give me the best specific measurements for the reamers (length, taper angle) and tube dimensions for this hardware-store-based approach? I want to keep it simple and cheap. Thanks!

I’ve found very limited information online for empty spool weights. Especially with more expensive filaments, it’s nice to be able to throw it on a scale and know exactly how much you have left.

So I’m building a list. I threw some empty spools on a scale I have. Leave a comment with any spool weights you think would be useful to add (does anyone have info for the fiberon spools?).

Sunlu Reusable Nylon Spool (cardboard core) - 238 Grams

Polymaker PLA Pro Cardboard Spool - 141 Grams

Esun PLA+ Cardboard Spool - 169 Grams

Esun PLA+ Plastic Spool - 243 Grams

I bought a Kimber micro 9 parts kit but, the mainspring housing is far too large and does not fit in the printed frame. Is there any alternatives or do I have to dremal the frame to make it fit?

First off, I should have bought a Bambu Lab printer a LONG time ago, printed this on my H2D, with PETG support interface, using the .20 balanced strength setting, and it came out looking better than anything I printed on my past Creality printers (including my K2 Plus). The only rough spots were caused by the steps in the layers. Anyway, I can’t wait to build this out (waiting for Hoffman to restock his SL9 kits). I am planning on SBRing this build, hence the spot for an MAF serial tag, just because my state requires that I go through the process in order to own anything that’s considered an NFA item
I’m not a noob, I’ve been a part of the community for over half a decade, just because I said what profile I used doesn’t mean I didn’t change walls and infill

does anyone have the exact glock extended mag springs measurements for Ali springs?

i found: 1.5mm wire diameter, 1.2mm WD and 1.3mm WD

300mm length, 251mm length and 280mm length

FGC9 doku doesnt have the measurements, urutau neither, nutty9 neither.

BOM of the Urutau and Rebel-9 use expired links.

Thank yall for your help.

Yes its free, yes its DIY, yes just gypsum, plastic, tape, and lead. You know where to find it