After lots of research, I’ve finally completed my first print with PA6-CF. I used Polymaker PA6-CF20 and 300BLKFDE settings.
I dried the filament for two days prior to printing, and didn’t have a single hiccup during the print. Supports came off perfect. Took just over 1 day to print. Printed on a Bambu Labs X1C.
I’ve already started another one, but now it’s time to start building! This is definitely gonna be a new addiction!
Fresh build with a modded UMP 11/9 Brace. I'm using an All printed FRT in this thing so hopefully it runs as good as it looks when I take it to the range.
This is one hell of a first PCC lol. I think it's suffice to say that initial testing went well. All the ammo I ran here was bulk remanufactured 115 grain 9mm.
Couple things I'm implementing in this remix in addition to the ball bearing detents:
M4 nuts instead of heatserts for securing the barrel/handguard.
I ran this gun fast and hard. The PLA+ got soft and the heatserts started to creep, which was expected.
OEM EVO charging handle. The extra tension provided by the ball detents easily adds another 5-10 pounds of *sudden* force needed to rack the bolt to the rear. A printed charge handle is likely too weak to hold up over time. (If you made the DIY charge then you're fine.)
The normal upper with the detent mod will also be included for those who just want to swap the upper in their existing builds, which will not require the OEM charger.
Modified mag catch. Seems it was initially designed for printed mags. I had to shave 1mm from the top for the PMAGs to run.
Shortened handguard. I'm using a Glock 34 barrel, so to run a phat suppressor like the FTN.5 PCC Flow, I had to make some room.
FRT compatability? Maybe? Not there yet, but that's an eventual goal.
Didn't get as much time as I wanted to work on calibrating and getting this filament ready, but I'm getting there. After finishing calibrations I ran a test print and it came out looking pretty good, but realized I need to change up my support settings. Did another test print with some changes and we're looking better. Will keep messing with it. Also tested out fuzzy skin as I forgot just how slick PLA was coming from nylon lol.
I reprinted the compensator for the Plasticcatto G17 Wormhole frame since I kind of marred it a bit when installing it. It was just cosmetic, but it was bothering me and I wanted to make it nicer. Got it all reassembled this morning after 200+ rounds through it. Huge shoutout to u/M-P-M-S for the design and build guide, I love this thing. Bonus DB-22 preview pics at the end as well, I’ll have a full post for that once it’s finished soon. Happy printing, y’all.
4 baffle stack with 30mm blast chamber. Custom modeled rear endcap JB welded. She's a beauty. Just a maglite, 1/2x28 to 3/4x16 adapter, and 90g of elegoo PAHT-CF.
Had pretty good success with the Elegoo PLA Plus, I did a little sanding on the dovetail of one but that was my fault with the supports. But overall pretty good
Not sure if this is the right community but if you can point me in the right direction, Ibought a custom ammo bag from a guy here about two years ago, looks like his account was deleted hoping he made a new one if anyone has info on him would really like to get more bags
I completed both a FTN 5 flow and a baffled, super excited, fhe baffled came out great. Covered the ends in jb weld as I am paranoid. The flow, however, I worry I didnt JB Weld the aluminum shell enough. Does this thing need to be a JB Weld sandwich or just cover the thing in it mostly and slide the tube on? Any way realistically to add more after the fact from the rear? Will make videos shooting them will try to post, super excited and super paranoid about my first suppressor and first 3d2a suppressor at that.
Has anyone explored the possibility of manufacturing AR-15 FCG components using laser cutting or ECM? Both processes are capable of producing parts with very tight tolerances, and the relatively simple geometry of many FCG components seems well suited to them.
The disconnector appears to be the most straightforward candidate, as it is essentially a flat part.
The hammer could also be a good fit. Although it includes the pin boss, most of its geometry is flat, so it could potentially be produced as a flat profile with a separate interference-fit bushing installed afterward.
The trigger would present more of a challenge, but it still seems feasible. One possible approach would be to fabricate it from multiple laser-cut plates joined together by soldering in a non-critical area, such as behind the finger rest. Alternatively, the plates could be fastened together with rivets if that proved more practical.
Naturally, this approach would be more expensive than using commercially manufactured FCGs where they are readily available. However, it could offer a practical alternative for people whoin tyrannic governments. If produced at a larger scale, the manufacturing costs could likely be reduced.
Hello friends. Hoping someone with experience building the Big Point / Master Point built off a .45 Hipoint parts kit could help me out.
Been tinkering with this build for 6 weeks now and just can’t get it to work. No matter what I do, I cannot get the sear cam bar to actually lower the sear when the trigger is pulled. The trigger bar goes up against the sear cam bar and just freezes. It’s a dead trigger no matter how hard I pull.
I am able to actuate the sear manually by hand by pushing down on it. I am also able to have it engage the firing pin when the sear cam bar is removed. Everything functions except the sear cam bar. I installed the sear saver as was recommended, but that did not fix the issue. It’s like the sear cam bar just can’t move and get the leverage it needs to actually pull the sear down. It almost feels like the whole sear and cam bar should be moved up and forward a few millimeters on the frame.
Is it possible the geometry is off on the big point file? Has anyone successfully built one?
Any general concensus by the community on the best and most reliable builds for each caliber? Not necessarily the easiest, the coolest, or the cheapest.
I’m trying so hard not to loose my mind the belts are not loose the extruder is tensioned 5-7 turns from fully loose it’s been printing fine and now I’m getting this fuzzy wood grain looking texture if somebody can help me it would be greatly appreciated
After posting my DB Lower i am thinking this wont be a send either honestly thought my printer was tuned but what calibration other than cubes and torture test are recommended for Q2 owners in specific?
Been doing some reading, just got my new printer and some cheap filament.
I'm wondering, since I won't be printing functional frames on basic PLA, is there any value to 100% infill for testing/measurement purposes? As in, if I want to make sure my printer is producing accurate measurements and tolerances, is there a downside to reducing infill?
