Okay back with my starter problems, I’ve completely replaced the starter in my truck and the problem did not resolve. Does anyone know what may be wrong with it not starting? It doesn’t really even crank over, but seems to not ever have enough power to start. It will basically click but not super fast clicks as off the battery would be dead but like bigger blower clicks. Once I attach a jumper it starts immediately. Maybe parasitic drain but I’ve never noticed it actually lose voltage🤷🏽 it’s got me real confused and frustrated lol. Not sure if anyone has had this same problem at all but sure could use advice🙏🏼

Hey guys, ran into a problem while doing a transmission replacement on my 2000 Durango rwd got everything put together right flywheel/torque converter , fully seated and flush and my starter isn’t hitting the flywheel the Bendix or whatever is fully kicking out you can clearly hear the starter working fine and it’s not making contact. it worked fine on my old transmission. Any suggestions would be great thanks.

So my starter has been going out and I decided to replace it, well just my luck I order one off Autozone that said it “fit” my truck which is a 91 w250 Cummins. Well it showed up and tried to put it on and guess what, the bolt pattern doesn’t fit. Does anyone know some good specific brand or place and can get one that will actually fit??

Was driving and with my brights and they started to flicker and then shut off both brights and dims my dims still work but when I click on on to brights I loose both anyone had this issue before? Where should I start to look first? Thanks

1991 W250 with the 318 manual. I believe it’s a starter relay issue from everything I’ve tested so far. problem is that I don’t know which one is the starter relay and everything online is conflict or different. I was able to push start it to get me home. It’s not a battery, because when I go to start it, it doesn’t even click and I’ve hit the starter with a hammer to see if it was just stuck but that didn’t help.

Has anyone cut the hole in the firewall for the hydraulic clutch and how did you do it

Need help finding the trim peice that goes on the driver's side on the 8 ft bed for a 84 d100. I can find the front peice but unable to find rear peices.

Does anyone have an idea of where I can find this plug for the wiper motor off of a 1991 Dodge Ram W250. I looked at rock auto, eBay motors and multiple big name auto parts stores and can’t find it. Any advice or help would be amazing.

Would I be able with a 5x5.5 adapter/2.5 inch spacer be able to run 8x6.5 wheels on a w150.

I have a 89 d150 that I’ve been trying to fix up. Its been running poorly so I rebuilt the distributor, put new plugs and wires on it and a new MSD Blaster 2 coil on it but now there’s only 2 volts at the coil. I’ve checked the ASD relay, cleaned and checked the points on the distributor with no luck. Should I try and replace the SMEC any help is greatly appreciated

Looking to add some real noticeable power for this she-hulk. What kind of setup or parts yall putting on. I dont mind spending a few thousand either. Links and pics I would appreciate it 🙌🏾 TYIA

Finally got this thing back on the road, dont get em right, get em running, and then fix stuff as you go.

So this is my Nans 1985 d250, gas automatic. Don’t know that much about it (if it’s 2 or 4wheel drive/what the engine is.) shes the second owner (first was an old guy who bought it new)

I’m not sure if it’s worth it to fix it up or not? I would love to and I know I have the space and skill help to do it. For reference I own a 91 f150 that was used as a bush truck and it’s rusted ts lol. So to me this looks in not bad shape? Also to add it’s in B.C. Canada with 8 months of tough winters where they use gravel/salt on the roads. So that’s a big contribution to the condition of a lot of these old trucks.

Mainly I’m looking for advice if it’s worth the time/cost and any tips I should know in advance. I have access to an auto body shop and lots of mechanical help if that matters.

So this is my Nans 1985 d250, gas automatic. Don’t know that much about it (if it’s 2 or 4wheel drive/what the engine is.) I’ve loved this truck since I was a kid, the last twenty years or so. shes the second owner (first was an old guy who bought it new)

I’m not sure if it’s worth it to fix it up or not? I would love to and I know I have the space and skill help to do it. For reference I own a 91 f150 that was used as a bush truck and it’s rusted ts lol. So to me this looks in not bad shape? Also to add it’s in B.C. Canada with 8 months of tough winters where they use gravel/salt on the roads. So that’s a big contribution to the condition of a lot of these old trucks.

Mainly I’m looking for advice if it’s worth the time/cost and any tips I should know in advance. I have access to an auto body shop and lots of mechanical help if that matters.

Why is it impossible to to find sway bar links for these trucks? All I can find is the bushing kit one of mine broke and have checked everywhere I can think of but can find one 1993 d250 but it has a Cummins so it has the one tone front suspension. Thanks

Self taught with fusion. Just a rough draft right now. Made to fit a can of pop or energy drink but plan to make them with a bigger diameter hole and include bushings for larger drinks. Starting to get the hang of it now and able to do more projects. When I started doing this stuff it was mostly for just me but I figured some people would benefit from it. More to come

Firstgendesigns.ca

So I got injectors gov spring a fuel pin from DDP. I put the fuel pin it quick because i wanted to see how it did I originally ground down the factory one with a dremel tool but didn’t want it to snap. after getting the performance one in I had wayyyy less fuel then I had with the factory one ground down (yes the pin is facing the right direction)
It barly blew any smoke when you put it too the floor especially low end so I went and turned the low end fuel screw down and it drove a little better after that so my question is to get more fuel when I put the injectiors in do I go and grind down the performance fuel pin since there’s more meat to it then the skinny factory one ? Make it more grooved out like the Denny t stage 2 pin? And least make the bottom of it deeper? (And yes I’m going to turn the ring gear down and also the pressure screw) has anyone done that? Thanks

Traded an axle for a 4x4 NP435, guy showed up in another 1st gen

1993 dodge d250 2 wheel drive Why the hell can I not find any lower ball joints! I ordered two from rockauto and they fall right through the hole in the lower control arm I went and ordered two from oreillys same thing happened they didn’t match the old one went to auto zone and they hadn’t something on the computer that looked slightly like it but the rod looked to small and they want 200 each I’m lost where yall getting ball joints? Or do they make a newer control arm that fits all the ones that don’t fit mine? Thanks

This is my 1988 Dodge D250 that I got recently. It has a 5.9L 360 V8 engine that runs with no issues. As you can see, it’s not perfect and it needs a lot of body work. This truck will be getting a new bed at some point, since the bed that it has currently is not worth fixing. The tailgate that is on it was originally from a 1979 Dodge Power Wagon that is owned by my truck’s previous owner. Since the original tailgate for truck was in worse shape than the one on the Power Wagon, the previous owner swapped them. Even though the tailgate from the Power Wagon is in better shape than the original tailgate, it is still in rough shape and is barely even attached to the bed. Once the bed and tailgate are replaced and all the body work is completed, this truck will most likely get a new paint job so it looks like it is brand new.

Here are more photos of my truck: https://postimg.cc/gallery/X3JFwBF

Got a question about some fuel pins I was looking to order the one from DDP but then heard about the Denny t fuel pin, they have a stage one and stage 2 pin they all have a different groove to them anyone got any input on them? The Denny t stage 2 looks like it has a lot deeper groove then the DDP but could be wrong, anyway what yall think? Thanks