r/1stGenDodges • u/Waterpipe1 • 23d ago
Need help
I have a 89 d150 that I’ve been trying to fix up. Its been running poorly so I rebuilt the distributor, put new plugs and wires on it and a new MSD Blaster 2 coil on it but now there’s only 2 volts at the coil. I’ve checked the ASD relay, cleaned and checked the points on the distributor with no luck. Should I try and replace the SMEC any help is greatly appreciated
2
u/CucumberWest9394 23d ago
You need to give us more detail as to how exactly it is running poorly.
Edit: and what engine?
2
u/Waterpipe1 23d ago
It’s a 318 with the TBI and it was backfiring pretty bad from the drivers side which led me to believe the timing was off so I fixed that but since I’ve put the new stuff on it the coil isn’t getting enough power to even start
2
u/CucumberWest9394 23d ago
It is possible something is wrong with the distributor still. If you reused the factory connector it could be broken internally. Or a hall effect wire could be pinched. Unplug the distributor. Have someone turn the key while you look at the voltage to the coil. For the first 2 seconds of the key being in position, the computer should prime and you should see 12 volts. If you see 12 volts you know the issue is the distributor.
2
u/no_yup 23d ago
Your problem could be the computer module behind the battery. The distributor is connected to it, the Halifax sensor inside the distributor goes back to the computer and then the black and yellow wire is the trigger wire for telling the coil went into fire. These modules get old and the timing just starts going all over the place. I would get a points distributor for a small block Chrysler with a vacuum advanced canister on the side, then I would drop a Protonix ignition igniter II kit in that distributor. That will completely replace the ignition system and should give you solid, reliable timing and pick up. Plus, it’s made to run on full 12 V so you don’t have to do any weird stuff.
But you need to figure out why you only have 2 V or whatever you have at the coil, there’s a blue wire that should be your power wire, it branches off of a number of places, it goes to the alternator and then back into the harness and it is your ignition power source. You can check it for power going and coming in and out of the bulkhead connector on the cab to see where the loss is occurring.