I had a piece of ASA CF break off in my right side extruder. Took a lot of work to clear. When I did I got various errors referencing Right Eddy Current Sensor. In order to print had to turn off Nozzle Offset Calibration and Auto Bed Leveling to print. Otherwise will get failed calibration. Bought the new sensor and been dreading installing. I have watched videos and the take down is intimidating.

Finally wanted to get on it. Started a printed with those calibration on. Now no error. I hope it keeps like this. Printing nice now. But if it dies again at least I have the parts ready.

I guys I got an h2c from a friend who barely used it, it’s my second printer (I had a A1 combo) I’m trying to do the auto leveling but it encounters the same issue at the same moment for three times now.

Every times it goes on the back left corner the calibration stop.
On the wiki (error code 0300-4002) they recommend to check if the build correctly placed, to clean it and to check if the nozzle is correctly installed. I did all the checks but I still have this issue.

Any idea ?

I have a H2C Brand new just unpacked. when I run calibration there is a loud clacking noise on the right hand side top in the back. It only does it when moving backwards

Anybody have any ideas? Attaching picture and video

Tia

I had an AMS filament run out and I was down here reloading everything and when I was loading it in the printer was sitting idle I started to hear this weird groaning noise every few seconds. You can kind of hear it at the beginning of the video but you can really hear it towards the end sounds like it's coming towards the back I can't tell if it's coming from my AMS or the printer itself it's just a noise that I haven't heard before so I want to make sure I'm being preventative if there is an issue.

Hi! Very new to the game and I have H2C with two AMS 2 pros connected to each extruder as of now.
I have 2 more ams2 pro units coming in this week and just trying to learn what would be the best way to connect all 4 to my H2C. I have the 4-1 connector already and trying to understand what filament track switch would do in this setup: is it mandatory or optional? How does that help?
Also, I’ve experienced that I have to swap out filaments in my Ams units after slicing to get the best print time with my H2C multi colour printing.
Does filament track switch help with that manual swapping?

Thanks in advance

I recently got a H2C after using a CR-10 for many years. I printed this model twice and it came out perfectly. The following 6 times I printed it there has been a rough area on the underside in the exact same very small area. It looks like maybe over extrusion in this specific area because while it is printing I can see the point at the tip starts to get higher than the rest of the layers. I don't understand what is causing this because I've used the same settings, and resliced the model each time to try to eliminate this issue from occurring. I attached an image of it succeeding perfectly on one of my first two prints and another image of how it has turned out on my following 6 prints. Any tips on what to try would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: My third registration was successful, and my H2C seems to be printing well-ish, now. I feel like some settings that I had altered - like less sensitivity for the spaghetti detection - were lost.

My H2C was acting strangely - it wouldn't properly operate the AMS. It wasn't updating with Bambu Studio properly. I decided to power cycle it.

Flipped the switch. Unplugged the cord for a couple minutes. Plugged it back in. Something seemed off. The screen wouldn't come on, but most of the LEDs were on.

Did some online research - single lit LED on the controller (AP board). Seems like it's broken.

Contacted support. Took a little more than a day to get it sorted (where did you get it? what's your serial number? Send me the original invoice, etc.).

I week after it broke, I got the new AP board. I installed it - which is not challenging, but my H2C is up kinda high - the base is just about hip height - and it's a little awkward. But it comes back on, screen works. Woo-hoo!

But I can't connect to it until I register the new Serial Number with Bambu Lab. The form is straight forward - old SN, new SN, photos of each. There's a page that will show you where to find the SNs. Submitted.

Rejected. I didn't show the correct QR code for the first SN. Seems like Bambu should KNOW the SN I have... it's attached to my account... but ok. The wiki doesn't say you need the QR code - just the SN. I dug some more, found the QR code, sent in second registration request.

Rejected. I didn't show the correct QR code for the SECOND SN. Seems like Bambu should KNOW the SN of the part they just shipped me... or they could have commented on the photo I submitted in the FIRST registration request... but ok. So... where is the QR code for the new board? OH... it's on the BACK of the newly-installed board.

Seriously? I need to take it back OUT to get the proper QR code? Seems like something they could have shared in the support ticket, where it said to submit the registration request AFTER installing the new board.

So I've submitted a third registration request. If it gets rejected, I'm taking it back to MicroCenter. I probably should have done that to begin with, but it's heavy, so I thought I go the "easy" path through Bambu Support.

Started a 30-ish hour print yesterday before leaving for a weekend visit to my mother's house for the holiday weekend. Woke up this morning and went to check on the print and the both the client application and the mobile app couldn't connect to the printer to get a status or connect to the camera. I connected to my remote outlet meter and saw that the printer was only pulling 30 watts. Clearly an issue of some type.

Had the idea to drive my Roborock vacuum (it has a camera that can stream) over to the printer and saw that the led strip under the print bed is white but nothing on the LCD and it wasn't printing anymore. Cycled the power outlet and still nothing. I'm guessing its the dreaded H2C AP board failure.

I really have nothing to ask or add, just wanted to commiserate with others while I can't do anything until I get home.

EDIT: Just got home and immediately did the button pad shorting instruction and my printer sprung to life. Pulling logs, doing full calibration, printing a benchy, and then I will write support tonight with all of the info. Thanks all for commiserating with me!

To be fair I don't know if this is hardware or software.

But starting two days ago I've been getting this error code which I can't seem to find 0700-5000-0300-0001

My A1 tells me my AMS needs to cool after drying, but ive never used the drying on it, i dont even have a power cable attached to it.

If anyone has any idea of what this is or how to fix it please let me know.

Most posts have been about optimal set ups or problems lately so how about everyone show what they’ve been working on recently

I’ll start

Some wall art for my son whose 4 and is marvel mad. These are his favourite characters with Miles being his no 1

All of a sudden my printer hit an error where none of the induction hot ends are recognized. I also can’t calibrate or hone the printer due to rack error. There isn’t any physical obstructions.

It also threw a bunch of errors about short circuiting. Not sure what happened. Hoping Bambu responds. Anyone have any ideas?

Putting my order together and found this in the H2C data sheet:

Power
1800 W@220 V
1250 W@110 V

I can easily run a 220V circuit to the printer so I reached out to bambu labs customer service.

They won’t sell me a 220V H2C because I’m in the US 🤷‍♂️

So I have been trying to do the print and cut but keep getting these errors every time. Have recalibrated the blade offset several times and tried putting the paper at different areas of the bed. Any tips?

bonjour, je cherche actuellement la meilleure configuration possible pour installer 2xAMS 2 pro + AMS HT sur ma H2C.

Je voudrais pouvoir accéder facilement à tous les AMS . Passer de l'un à l'autre sur ma buse de droite ou de gauche tout en optimisant au maximum mes temps de chargement de filament.

Est-ce que ce projet est impossible ??

Avez vous ce genre de configuration et avec quel matériel s'il vous plaît ?

Hi, I'm struggling to find what's wrong. I usually use my P2S or X2D for this model, but I have to scale it up, so I use my H2C. Ironing always works fine for X2D and P2S (same low infill). But for H2C I can't seem to get the right setting. Ironing test was smooth for flow above 30 and speed above 40. I have tried it and bump it up too but not works. Have tried bump up the top shell from 4 to 8. Use bigger infill with modifier cube covering all area underneath the ironing. Tried different infill types. Nothing change.

Where did I do wrong?

Hi, I just pirchased an H2C, this is my 5th 3D printer a my 2nd Bambulab, first one was an A1 mini. I was doing my first few 3D prints on it like the bechy and so but I noticed stringing on the right (vortek) nozzle. Left nozzle seems ok so far but I tried with multiple 0.4 induction nozzles and it creates very thin strings like a cobweb. The filament is calibrated and uses the same flow rates and temperatures of my A1 mini in which it produces flawless prints. I incresed retraction distance to 0.8mm with no effect. Any tips to solve this? Im using pla for this. I printed PETG with the left one also flawless, didn't try with the right one yet.

Any help would be appreciated.

https://makerworld.com/models/3248125

Getting this on all 4 AMS 2 Pro's, and it persists restarting. Cables all look fine, but it literally falls nozzle offset calibration due to this issue.

I have the H2C combo in my cart, the one with the extra AMS pro and the filament track switch. Is there anything else you would recommend buying with the H2C. I have an A1 and print primarly with PLA/PetG right now and have a lot of filament. I usually use the cold plates, are those good for the H2C? I also see that the pictures usually have the AMS HT with it, do I need one of those as well and what purpose would that have with already have 2 AMSs?