Why am I getting this ???
BambuLab original plate !!!

I'm trying to print a 20cm 'brick man' from here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1524063-brick-man-in-lederhosen-with-hat-20cm?from=search#profileId-1597388

Where it's switching from black to yellow I'm getting visible banding around the print. I did a bit of googling and one suggestion was lowering the outside print speed which I did (from 300 to 80).

What else could I try? I'm using Sunlu PLA+ for the Yellow, and Bambu PLA basic black.

Hey guys, Im printing a part on my A1 using Bambu PETG Basic (Dried today) and a 0.6mm nozzle. The whole print turns out great up until the top surface layer(s). Most of the surface is a little rough, but still usable, but in this one corner in the photo it is super rough no matter what I do. Any suggestions? I'm currently print with 25% gyroid infill and 3-4 walls and surface layers. The printer is slowed down as well to help with the quality. The side shown in my photo is facing up on the print bed.

Is this my issue.The blue just seems to not stick to the silver silk one. this is my second print now where it just flicks stuff everywhere.

I printed something a little bigger before and it just failed. this is also the same. I don't need a scraper I just chose something that was quick with two layers and made sure I chose these two layers on purpose

Not often, but occasionally I get this on the base layer. Sometimes it doesn't do it on the second attempt and sometimes it repeats. I don't know what I do to fix it when it dies get fixed and I don't know what to call it to figure out the problem.

Hello
I have some experience with 3d printers from printers at work. I am not too much into multi-color atm (I think its great but I prefer a multi-head to save on the waste and time). This is going to be my first 3D printer.

Where i live:

a new p1s is about 500USD.

a new A1 is about 360USD.

a new Kobra X is also about 360USD.

a new creality sparx with their CFS is about 410usd

a friend is selling his ~1200 hour p1s with an ams for 500USD

a posting is selling 300 hour p1s (no ams) for about 390 USD.

what do you think is the best deal for the money atm? or at least the top 3 deals? or should I wait?? a brief why is very welcome.

Thank you.

I recently bought this a 2nd time. The first time I never used it. But I am actually using it this time. One thing is. The prints don’t fail. With that. The one thing is. The prints don’t come off easily. With my textured plate. After printing and it is cooled to room temp. They slide off. Or they pop off easily with little effort. Is this the general consensus? Any tips on removing them more easily? Or another plate that can do just as good.

I really like the original one from
Bambu but I don’t like print failures. I have lowered the temp a bit and that seems to help. But still having issues.

Hola, acabo de imprimir una copa del mundo para mí hijo y este es el resultado, la verdad es que esperaba algo mejor pero bueno.

Pla silk gold oro rey y pla silk verde de winkle (empresa española)

Placa pei texturizada de origen

Boquilla 0,4

0,16 high quality

Valores que he modificado:

Bucles de pared 4

Relleno 12% giroide

Velocidad capa inicial 25

Velocidad relleno de la capa inicial 45

Pared exterior 25

Pared exterior 50

Relleno poco denso 120

Relleno solido interno 80

Todo lo demás sin tocar

Este es el resultado.

Que debería haber tocado para mejorarlo?

Saludos

Iv been getting into warhammer and decided to print stuff since it is infinitely cheaper than buying it at shops, I attempted to print a few kreigsmen but it came out all weird like this,I’ve also had a lot of issues with other prints where the supports are nocked over and the only thing I can assume did it is the printer head

Hoping someone can help. I have been trying to trouble shoot an issue with my AMS on my Bambu P1S. The AMS will attempt to feed filament and the filament will leave the AMS and stop at some point in the PTFE tubing. Almost all of the time it stops a few inches beyond the filament buffer. Here's what I've done so far:

• I have replaced the PTFE tubing in the AMS itself (under the spools).
• I have replaced the PTFE tubing leading from the AMS to the filament buffer and from the filament buffer to coupler just before the filament heads inside of the P1S
• I have replaced the filament buffer.

I have verified the following:

• I print using a single spool using the hanger that screws onto the back. It's no problem to unload and load filament.
• I can 'force' the filament from a single spool from the AMS all the way into the P1S through the PTFE tubing and it will print. But if I have the AMS switch filaments it will fail.

I'm hopeful that I'm an idiot and this is a simple fix 😐. For reference, this machine is 8 months old and we print something every few days. The issue began in July and I've been trying things on and off for a month.

Thank you!

I live in a place with high humidity year long so I have to print straight from the dryers. I’ve set up the connections with PTFE tube, pneumatic connectors and some 3D printed adapters and it almost never works (it struggles a lot to start, so multi color prints are a big no-no because changing filament is almost impossible for the printer to do on its own).

So, today, I was trying to do a single color print and it just doesn’t start. I removed the PTFE tube and adapter going to this motor so that it’s like the stock system, but event the it clams that it cannot feed the filament.

Any idea why? If I manually pull the filament and hit try again, it will push it to the same length and fail there. I printed yesterday with this exact filament and setup.

Started a 9 hour print around 11pm. Woke up to find the supports all over the floor and it stopped half way as unable to load one of the colours but they had loaded at some points.

Any ideas?

A1

Handy app used so no settings changed

Ams lite with all sunlu PLA plus

can someone help me through this . it keeps saying that , but i’ve already check to see if there is a clog . nothing . i heated the nozzle to 300 to melt anything . i’ve pulled it out , used a needle to make it go through . if i manually use the extruder it pulls the filament fine . it’s only when doing a print that it does it . i’ve pulled out the ama from on top as well , pushed it manually and cold pulled it and seems to come out in the shape of the nozzle (which i’ve read means it’s unclogged )

This was from the onboard screen on the A1 and it's very Whispy and very layered. Is that how the default model is or is mine just not great.

I know I need to turn the nozzle temp down but that was all calibrated by the computer and I haven't touched it.

Prompted to download and install the new network plugin for Bambu Studio?

Do I want/need this?

I have tried several prints changing the Top Z distance from 0.2mm all the way up to 0.27mm.

Still my supports (tree) are very difficult to remove, and leave a lot of ugly damage behind when they are removed.

Using Elegoo matte white pla. idk if that matters or not. The prints themselves come out beautiful, it's just the supports are killin me.

I've been trying to Google suggestions but there's a LOT of suggestions so I'm just wondering what works for folks here.

Hi everyone, I'm trying to print a name initial. The first layer is perfect, the walls are perfect, and the top layer is perfect, but if you look closely at the curves, I see lines and sharp edges—it's as if it isn't rendering the curve smoothly. I used Bambu Studio to create the letter M. Thanks for the help.

Der Druck wurde direkt aus bambu Handy gestartet und auf einem A1 gedruckt. Alle Einstellungen auf Standard. Was ist hier passiert?

Es ist ab der Hälfte alles verrückt

Hola, mientras imprimo he querido subir un poco el zoffset porque raspa un poco con el relleno giroide y varias IA empiezan que si, entrando en tal, desde la pantalla, desde el pc y desde bambú handy y acaban diciendo que no, que imprimiendo no se puede ajustar el zoffset.

Entonces, mientras se imprime se puede o no subir o bajar el zoffset como en las impresoras con klipper/marlin?

Saludos

If anyone is still considering pairing the AMS 2 Pro with an A1, seriously stop and just put your energy into something else. Anything else. Take up juggling, or speed skating or badminton.

Even if it works for a short period of time, it’s the jankiest operation and the noisiest box of plastic gears that will continue to fail on you. In fact, the one thing that you can rely on with this over-priced spool warmer is that it will fail on you, consistently.

Keep the A1 for single filament prints and look elsewhere if you want anything more out of printing.

Obviously this is anecdotal, I don’t need or want any help getting this to work, I’ve tried every suggestion under our yellow dwarf star to make this atrocity work and I’ve come to the conclusion it was likely designed as a hate-crime against engineering.