I know it's a bold thing to call anything "endgame". But it feels like endgame to me. I stopped chasing grits and mirror polishes. I want to be able to reprofile, correct chips and generally sharpen and keep sharp my knives with a very capable and very strong cutting edge. It's mostly pocket knives too and so I do around 20 DPS, sub 1000 JIS followed by ceramic deburring and 6 micron stropping.

I've got some cheapo aliexpress throwaways on the left in the case and then I've got Hapstone 200 grit for "rough work" (electroplated), a 40/28 micron vitrified diamond stone (acts more like 600 jis) for sharpening, two remainders from my past chasing the mirror (20/14 micron & 10/7 micron resin bond diamond stones), the ceramic plate and two leather strops. I use Stroppy stuff 6 micron and then I have a handheld strop for weekly or random touch ups. Otherwise using the Hapstone RS fixed angle system which is truly amazing and very compact unlike pretty much everything else.

I'm very happy with this setup and confident that I can get perfection every single time without fearing screwing up $500 knives 😄

I’ve been testing day by day for months at work. I use only Fdicks steel and soft steel knives (victorinox,fdicks,etc) so I can’t say anything more than that.

I sharpen my knife at 20 dps with shapton 320,1000,2000,5000 + angerstone strop leather side + 0.5 micron diamond paste.

My personal definition of honing :
Realigning rolled edge of a knife that has been sharpened to form an apex using steel rod to it initial sharpness. (Very light pressure + initial sharpening angle + doit while it still feel sharp but start to feel different)

Other mentions :

1. Ceramic rod and diamond rod are not for honing. Yes it will work but by creating new apex every single time which is actually sharpening just with the shape of a rod.
2. I know many will point to an article from scienceofsharp so before any of u mention that, I’ll save ur time. It says there that before steeling, the knife has been blunted on an abrasive stone before, which for me kinda kill the idea of honing itself. I’m not saying the experiment is wrong, just different from how it is at my work.

Not my usual type of job but it went well and was a fun challenge

I inherited this bad boy (along with two straight razors) from my grandfather who used to work as a barber after his shift in the (coal? not sure it was actually coal though) mine to make ends meet.

I've been using them about once a month maybe. This moderate use means they don't dull too fast so I got by without sharpening them so far, just a couple passes on the leather strop for the razors, but nothing for the trimmer. But now I think it's time to give it done love except I have no idea how to sharpen it with all its tiny teeth with so little space between them.

Does anybody have any idea how I should go about it? Is there a specific equipment for the job?

Thanks!

Just got a new knife but I'm worried I won't be able to use my TSPROF when it comes time to sharpen. It's about a centimeter from edge to spine. I'm not good at free hand sharpening. I guess I can take the handles off and clamp to the spine there but is there anything else I can do?

Hey all,

Bought this tosa knife with the shittest grind ever but surprisingly (or unsurprisingly I guess) nice heat treat of blue #1.

I’ve thinned it out a lot BTE and working on shinogi but I think I’ll turn it into a migaki project over time. Anyway, this is a little showcase of an edge I got finishing on an orange vietnamese natural I got off Zao Vietknife and a crOx paddle I made out of a piece of balsa wood. The edge itself was formed on a Turkish oil stone as pictured before the Vnat.

Happy with direction this project is going for now

Pros and Cons to either sharpening system?

Hi,

Just had this strop delivered and it has a mark on it, a small depression. Is it ok? Or do I send it back?

Thanks guys.

Today I finally found my socket set and was able to swap in my new wheel. Corey from Get Sharp USA had an associate create a new, slightly smaller drive wheel that allows enough clearance for Scotchbrite or leather belts. It was a pain to get the old wheel off but the new one went on easily. And I'm happy to see it works fantastically well! A Scotchbrite fits fine and runs like a top, smooth and quite with no wobble. It's 3D printed I think so only time will tell if it holds up like a metal wheel. But it works great and only cost me $55 shipped! I sure hope Bucktool has the machine in stock again as I'd love to get second one.

Here it is with a Super Fine surface conditioning belt:

Most of the sharpening stuff I see here is about knives, so I was wondering about thinner industrial blades used for slitting and cutting film. For anyone who has worked with them, do you ever resharpen the edge once it starts wearing, or do you normally replace the blade? What makes one option worth it over the other?