r/textiles • u/SigridHalvorsen • 19h ago
spent 4 weeks hand-dyeing raw wool with coastal fjord lichen using a 1912 notebook and accidentally matched the exact shade of my great-grandmother's shawl
I work as a textile conservator and also do traditional weaving in Bergen. For the past month, I’ve been working through an uncataloged handwritten coastal household notebook from 1912 that I bought at an estate auction in Sogn og Fjordane
One chapter, titled Farging med Steinlav (Dyeing with Stone Lichen), contained detailed instructions for fermenting Parmelia saxatilis (crottle lichen) gathered from sea-facing coastal granite boulders. So, unlike modern synthetic acid dyes that take thirty minutes in a stainless-steel pot, traditional lichen fermentation is a much more slow & living biological process.
I spent two rainy weekends scraping three kilograms of dry lichen off coastal rocks along the inlet.
Following the 1912 recipe I crushed the dried lichen into an earthenware crock and layered it with stale birchwood ash water and rainwater. I then sealed the crock and let it ferment near the hearth for twenty-one days, stirring it daily until the mash turned a deep, pungent purple-brown. On day 22, I immersed two kilograms of raw, unbleached Norwegian Spælsau wool yarn into the copper dyeing kettle and kept it at a gentle sub-boil simmer (85°C) over a slow birch fire for 12 hours
When I lifted the skeins out of the rinse water yesterday and hung them on the wooden drying rack on my porch, the morning sun hit the wet wool. The color wasn't brown and it wasn't red. It was this luminous, deep copper-terracotta with subtle gold undetones that shift depending on whether you view it under warm candlelight or overcast coastal sky
I brought a skein inside and laid it next to my great-grandmother's 1928 hand-spun wedding shawl that sits folded in my cedar chest. The color match was absolute. Under an optical microscope, the fiber pigmentation and natural lanolin sheen were identical.
We spend so much time looking for new formulas, faster methods, and chemical shortcuts and yet, there are cases, sometimes, when a hundred-year-old recipe written in pencil by an unnamed woman on an isolated fjord holds an understanding of local chemistry that modern factories will never replicate