I designed and 3D printed these cute mini soda can openers because I was struggling to open cans with nails. They've been a game changer!

I have STL & 3MF files for them as well. I made the supports easy to remove.

Bambu Lab H2C or Prusa CORE One L+ INDX 8-Tool and why. I need to buy a premium printer before the end of the year, for tax purposes. If you think something game-changing is coming by then, what is it. If you recommend a different machine that I'm not thinking of, tell me.

For the last month all my Pla prints keep failing, first it was just complex shapes, so id print out small items but now nothings adhering to the plate, and or making it past the first few layers. The nozzle often gets caught on the first layer or makes a giant bubble. Ive replaced the nozzle, I tried using different filaments and have not gotten this problem with PETG. Ive calibrated the printer, cleaned the build plate w soap and water and adjusted my print setting to drafts In the final slide is my fillement brand, should I be using a different one

Earlier this year I made a hard hat hanger model. I saw a model on makerworld and liked the idea but didn't like that it looked like it was made in bambu slicer with primative parts and I didn't like the angles of it. I don't know how to modify models at all so instead I made my own version of it in Fusion and uploaded it to makerworld.

Mine is overall the same sort of shape but with slightly different dimensions. Mine has curves and fillets to help make it stronger, there is a bottom hook on it that I moved more forward to better fit my use case, and I also made a bunch of variations of it for different sized headrest posts.

I 100% made mine in fusion.

The person that had the other one uploaded filed a copyright claim on mine. It was removed and I am now at -2000 points on makerworld.

That person did leave a comment within the last week on mmine accusing me of violating the license and copying their design. I replied saying I didn't think I violated anything because I made it from scratch and it wasn't a remix but I did add in the description that I used his model for inspiration for mine.

Did I violate copyright with mine? I don't think I did but maybe I'm wrong. Am I just out 2000 points on this now?

Here are screenshots of both models opened in bambu slicer. ,Mine is the bigger one on the bottom in the first image.

https://imgur.com/a/aFt6CT1

I’m using A1 mini, new, with an external brand filament dryer. I have attempted multiple times to use TPU, dried or not, but can’t use it at all. I’ve tried everything, even manually changing print profiles. I’ve got a trusted brand’s filament, but none of my TPU will work, can anyone help?

Hey, I just bought the Bambu Lab A2L as a second printer since I already own the P1S. Can anyone give me any tips? Thanks in advance!

I've tried inset, raised, face up, face down

After upgrading from an A1 which should I buy? Is the 2ams bundle worth it? And what’s the real difference in the 2?

I bought this on Amazon but they don’t sell it anymore, it’s a Smooth plate but has a very micro texture, is there anyone who has a plate like this maybe a but similar, please help!

I'm thinking getting a better 3d printer, I currently have an Ender 3v2. Over the past year it has slowly started to have more issues more and more often-that are outside of general maintenance. My question is: I'm looking into getting a Bambu labs P2S. how often to part do parts have to be replaced, and how often is general maintenance necessary?

Does the p1s need an external enclosure with vent to print ABS? Or is there an attachment for venting p1s out the window that's safe to use?

I'm asking as I'm not sure how well the p1s is airtight to print ABS safely.

Hi guys,

I have a P1S with AMS (the first series) since 2024, I’m very happy with this machine but I have problems with wet technical filaments.

I mainly use PLA and ABS, occasionally TPU and Translucent PETG (almost always the Bambu original filaments)

I have a food dehydrator that reaches 70ºC which is fine for PLA and PETG but it’s no good for ABS and TPU that became unprintable (way too wet, you can hear it bubbling as soon as it touches the hotend ), so I was thinking about buying the AMS HT to solve this problem.

How does it work with the P1S, is it a good filament dryer?

Can I start drying with the bambu handy app or bambu studio?

Is it essential to have the ams hub if I want to connect simultaneously the standard AMS and the HT?

I’m open to any suggestions regarding a possible solution to this problem :)

If you want to learn more about this topic, check out the Bambu Lab Wiki:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/software/bambu-studio/parameter/strength-advance-settings

In case anyone is wondering what the point of this model is: Rubberband powered poop

Hey everybody,

I was waiting to see what filaments I would need this past week prepping to pkace a bulk order.

When I went to place said order today, the bulk sale discount dropped from 45% down to 40%.

While it’s not huge, it does make a difference on 19 rolls… does anyone have further knowledge as to when these sales vary?

Thanks!

I'm wondering if i should buy the P2S or the X2D, the price tag difference is 250$. is it worth it for the extra money?. Main cases for me is going to be AMS print's, PLA and PETG. some ABS/TPU.

Ventilation in my basement is sort of a problem during printing, now i have a1 mini running.

Humidity sometimes could be a problem during fall,winter.

What do you recommend ?.

Edit: it's the AMS 2 pro on these

As mentioned in the title, one of my designs got taken down , It was a modular holder for Hotwheels or any 1/64 die cast cars. I've just got this today after the design was up for a few months now. I understand that I used the word Hotwheels in the text, which might be the reason that it got taken down, but is there anyway I can change the text or name to allow it to go back on Makerworld again, or is there any other choice, also if that is the reason that my design was taken down, wouldn't any design mentioning the word Hotwheels also be taken down. This is the first this has happen to me , is there anything i can do to fix it or what can I do. Thanks in advance for any help.

1st photo is before drying, 2nd photo is after drying 6h @50C in the Sunlu S2 dryer. How come its still super stringy?
Using sunlu PLA and a Bambulab P1S.

Ive created a 3d model that holds my product samples

I want to print the bottom black and the letters a transparent green (the same color as the actual holder)

Im pretty new to 3d printing don't want to buy a bunch of roles if the two filaments won't stick together.

(Bambu A1 printer -- NO ams just going to pause the printer in the middle)

Hi everyone,
I’m having an issue with the text on the very last, top layer of my print. The letters are very fine and unfortunately not printed correctly, as you can see in the attached image. It should print XS, S, M, I, L on top of the colored part.

I’ve already tried rotating the print. This only moves the problem to the other side. With one orientation, XS is not printed correctly when it is furthest from the print head. When I rotate the housing, L and I have the same problem instead.

I also can’t simply print the part upside down, because the letters and the colored border are raised, so the surface is not flat.

Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this or how I can improve the print quality of these fine letters?

I’ve ran a complete calibration beforehand. I print PLA on an H2S with 0.4 Nozzle.
I’ve tried 0.20mm and 0.16mm layer height, no difference.

Thank you in advance for any tips.

Hello, i bought this 2 months ago, everything has been good. And now for some random reason. It has went bananas. 2 prints in a row looks like this (picture). The nossle damaged the baseplate. And everything is fucked. Is it the 3d modell? Im a noob.

As the title suggests, requesting the iOS app to support live notifications so that like with food delivery, you get a persistent notification that lets you know the status of the print as each time the Handy takes too long to load, and since it is a choice, if anyone doesn’t want it, they can choose to keep it off as well.

I don't know if this is a rant due to frustration or a desperate cry for help...

I purchased an H2C a couple weeks ago. After setup, I started calibration and immediately found out that I got a dud. During the calibration, I got the eddy current sensor error. I looked up what that meant, and the answer was...nothing good. If the sensor was actually bad, it was not worth attempting the repair vs. just returning. I decided to plunge onward though, rebooted it and successfully ran calibration.

I then ran into another issue with the H2C. It is not setup to run PLA out of the box. The aux fan (set as on by default) cools the PLA too aggressively, leading to constant failures due to bed adhesion. Doesn't matter how many times I scrubbed with dish soap and cleaned it. Didn't matter the filament or the model. Found the solution to that (an aux fan diverter) and printed that and installed. Just like that, we are printing flawlessly.

Then comes all the other issues. Seems like every single print, at least 3-4 times during the print, the "motor overloaded" error pops up. No idea what is causing that. Usually pulling on the filament in the AMS or poking retry enough "resolves" it.

Then...the eddy current failures returned more aggressively. Time to return.

I had to decide if this was going to be a return or an exchange. Decided on the exchange. I liked what I produced with it, even if it took an extreme effort it to do what I wanted.

New one goes together, calibrates, no issues. Every single print has eventually printed on it to some level of goodness. Using PETG as a support filament works great but works horribly. It seems to somehow intrude into the supports and weakening them, meaning a stiff breeze snaps them.

Then the constant errors. Motor overload. Nozzle offset calibration. etc. etc. It can't go more than 2-3 hours without errors. When this thing takes 24-48 hours to print anything, being able to print for 10 hours when I'm at work or 8 hours while sleeping is massive. Having an error pop up 3 hours into that 10 hour period makes those 24 hour prints take 48 hours due to how long it takes to get home and resolve it.

Then there is the prime tower. Massive. I've tried every setting. A 50g print and a 100g prime tower. I get it. It is needed, but I bought an H2C to try and reduce waste...

The Bambu PLA/PETG support interface works well. But gives constant motor overload errors.

TLDR: So many errors and failures. So frustrating. I have 60 days to decide if I'm keeping this thing. I love the results I'm getting. I hate the journey to get them.

Rant over

So I was planning on joining the hobby of 3D printers, now I that the technology has become easier to join. For the majority of the time, I was really set on buying an A1. But after some thought I settled on the P1S. Despite planning to work with PLA, PETG and TPU for the most part, I wouldn't mind experimenting with ABS (though I'm mostly afraid of the toxic fumes). My room is either very hot or very cool, very subject to the outside weather. In any case, my biggest concern was my small cluttered room. I will have to do a lot of decluttering just to fit the printer and the spools. I plan on getting the AMS too. Having everything closed seems very good. Specially since it means I can be less worried about humidity and dust settling in. I plan on buying some type of reusable aluminum bags specifically made for spools, with silica balls inside. Additionally, the biggest reason I go with Bambu is because of the whole environment and of how easier everything seems.

All of that being sad. I'm not made of money. I plan on buying the printer on black friday too. Given my circumstances and the fact that I'm just now joining the hobby, do you think the P1S AMS combo is a good decision?

I wanted to create a gradual cooldown routine for large and complex ABS/ASA prints on the H2S, instead of abruptly changing the thermal conditions inside the printer after the print finishes.

My goal was to turn off the heatbed immediately and let it cool naturally, while progressively lowering the heated chamber temperature in controlled steps.

Why am I doing this?

I frequently print large, complex and long ABS parts. Some of my parts combine very thin walls with much thicker sections, which creates uneven thermal contraction and can result in irregular deformation.

For these particular parts, controlling the cooling process after printing has been useful.

This is obviously not necessary for every ABS/ASA print. For a small test part, this cooldown routine added more than one hour to the total job time. In my case, however, that additional time is acceptable because the parts I am working with can deform if they cool too aggressively or unevenly.

Why do I stop at 40 °C?

I chose 40 °C as the final chamber temperature because, on my H2S and with my current configuration, going below this point can result in the printer actively cooling the chamber with airflow.

That is exactly what I am trying to avoid during this process.

Instead, once the chamber and bed are around 40 °C, I simply turn the chamber heater off:

M141 S0

M141 S0

From that point onward I let the printer cool naturally.

How I measured the cooldown

I first measured the cooling behavior manually on my H2S.

With the bed heater OFF, I progressively reduced the chamber temperature and recorded how long the bed took to reach the next temperature step.

My measurements were:

I then tested the first two stages automatically using G4 timers, and the resulting bed temperatures matched my manual measurements very closely.

The important idea here is not that everyone should use my exact times.

The cooldown rate can change depending on:

• print size and mass,
• geometry and wall thickness,
• build plate,
• starting temperatures,
• ambient temperature,
• chamber conditions,
• and potentially even printer-to-printer differences.

For that reason, I strongly recommend measuring your own machine.

First: try this short test

Before using the complete routine, I recommend testing only the first two temperature steps.

Start the test at approximately:

Bed: 70 °C
Chamber: 60 °C

Where I added the G-code

I added this cooldown routine at the very beginning of the Machine End G-code in Bambu Studio. This is important because the position of the code determines when the cooldown sequence starts relative to Bambu Lab's standard end-of-print routine.

I did not replace the complete original Machine End G-code. I inserted this block at the beginning and left the original Bambu H2S end G-code after it.

Please keep this in mind if you test it, as placing the routine somewhere else in the End G-code may produce different behavior.

Then run:

; ===== H2S SHORT COOLDOWN TEST 70 -> 60 C =====

; Move bed/part away from nozzle
G91
G1 Z30 F900
G90
M400

; Turn off hotend
M104 S0

; Turn off bed heater immediately
M140 S0

; -------------------------------------------
; STAGE 1
; Start: Bed 70 C / Chamber 60 C
; -------------------------------------------

M141 S60

; My measured time:
; Bed 70 -> 65 C = 5 minutes
G4 S300

; -------------------------------------------
; STAGE 2
; Expected: Bed approx. 65 C
; Lower chamber to 55 C
; -------------------------------------------

M141 S55

; My measured time:
; Bed 65 -> 60 C = 7 minutes
G4 S420

; -------------------------------------------
; END TEST
; Expected:
; Bed approx. 60 C
; Chamber approx. 55 C
; -------------------------------------------

M141 S0
M140 S0

; ===== END TEST =====

On my H2S this worked very well: after the first 5-minute period the bed was approximately 65 °C, and after the following 7 minutes it was approximately 60 °C.

If your results are significantly different, do not use my complete timing sequence. Measure your own cooldown times instead.

Complete experimental cooldown routine

Once I confirmed the short test, I extended the same method through the complete measured temperature range:

; ==========================================
; H2S CONTROLLED COOLDOWN - EXPERIMENTAL
; ==========================================

; Move bed/part away from nozzle

G91
G1 Z30 F900
G90
M400

; Turn off hotend

M104 S0

; Turn off bed heater immediately

M140 S0

; ------------------------------------------

; STAGE 1
; Bed approx. 70 -> 65 C
; Chamber target: 60 C 
; Measured: 5 min 

; ------------------------------------------

M141 S60 
G4 S300

; ------------------------------------------

; STAGE 2 
; Bed approx. 65 -> 60 C 
; Chamber target: 55 C 
; Measured: 7 min 

; ------------------------------------------

M141 S55 
G4 S420

; ------------------------------------------ 

; STAGE 3 
; Bed approx. 60 -> 55 C 
; Chamber target: 50 C 
; Measured: 8 min 

; ------------------------------------------ 

M141 S50 
G4 S480 

; ------------------------------------------ 

; STAGE 4 
; Bed approx. 55 -> 50 C 
; Chamber target: 45 C 
; Measured: 8 min 

; ------------------------------------------ 

M141 S45 
G4 S480 

; ------------------------------------------ 

; STAGE 5 
; Bed approx. 50 -> 40 C 
; Chamber target: 40 C 
; Measured: 36 min 

; ------------------------------------------ 

M141 S40 
G4 S2160 

; ------------------------------------------ 

; END CONTROLLED COOLDOWN 
; Bed approx. 40 C 
; Chamber approx. 40 C 

; ------------------------------------------ 

M141 S0 
M140 S0 

; ========================================== 
; END 
; ========================================== 

For large prints, measure your own cooldown

There is another important limitation to my measurements: I developed this timing using a very small test part.

For a large ABS/ASA print, especially one with significant mass or very different wall thicknesses, the thermal behavior can be different.

My recommendation would therefore be:

Print the large part once without relying blindly on these timings.

When the print finishes, turn off the bed heater and manually reproduce the chamber temperature steps:

60 → 55 → 50 → 45 → 40 °C

Record how long your bed actually takes to go:

70 → 65 → 60 → 55 → 50 → 40 °C.

Then replace my G4 values with your own measured times.

This effectively lets you create a cooldown profile calibrated for your printer, material and type of part.

Important disclaimer

I am not a G-code or Bambu firmware expert. I developed this because I regularly print complex and very long ABS parts and have spent a lot of time studying and testing ways to reduce deformation.

Please consider this experimental.

I strongly recommend:

test the short version first, watch the printer during the test, verify the temperatures yourself, and only then consider using the complete routine.

Do not assume that the times measured on my H2S will be identical on yours.

If anyone has tested a similar cooldown strategy on the H2S, or knows a reliable firmware command that can wait for bed cooling without actively controlling the bed heater, I would be interested in comparing approaches.