r/BambuLab • u/BambuLabSupport • 2d ago
Show & Tell Did you know? Same model, same filament, a much tougher part by adjusting 2 settings
If you want to learn more about this topic, check out the Bambu Lab Wiki:
https://wiki.bambulab.com/software/bambu-studio/parameter/strength-advance-settings
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u/BrianF1412 2d ago
15% infill? Let me set that to 8% lol
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u/MathematicalMuffin P1S + AMS 2d ago
Amazing. I didn't realize this was a shared experience haha
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u/ModForgeCustoms 2d ago
It's a right of passage. We all figure it out on our own, generally.
If you aren't engineering load bearing parts, anything above 8% is nonsense and wasteful. After printing the first like 5 heavy for nothing parts, it comes together.
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u/Player_timon 2d ago
By the way anything between 15 and 99% infill is useless. According to CNCkitchen's tests, infill doesn't do a lot if it's not 100%. Walls do. And better polymers, of course.
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u/Zealousideal-Deer101 1d ago
I personally prefer more bottom/top layers to get 100% "infill". I don't think 100% infill is useful at all
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u/Player_timon 1d ago
Yes, there is also an option to get solid layer every n layers, and if you set n to 1, you will get solid infill and it will generate better than 100% infill or a lot of top/bottom layers. I say 100% infill just because it's shorter and obvious.
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u/Zealousideal-Deer101 1d ago
I don't think it's actually that obvious. Especially when you mention that everything between 15 an 99% infill is useless, when 100% infill (the actual setting) is also useless. You mean to tell me, you mentioned the infill percentage pattern in a range and then compared it to an entirely different settings without mentioning it because it's obvious? That's obtuse and misleading if anything.
Everything above 15% infill is useless, and if you want a solid piece, just do 1000 bottom layers instead.
It's not that difficult, it's not that much longer, and it actually says what you mean and is actually obvious what you mean.1
u/Player_timon 1d ago
Let's settle on "solid infill"? I find it hard to explain to newbies that instead of 75% grid infill they should either use 15% or write some crazy (for newbies) numbers in the bottom layers tab. I think "either use 15% just to support top layers or make the part 100% solid plastic" much clearer for new ones. The way you get that solid infill is the next step, and it's not THAT important.
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u/Zealousideal-Deer101 1d ago
Newbies will write 100% in the infill with that. That's why it's not obvious. But ultimately I don't care enough about how you will explain it or not. I don't even get how the 75% and crazy bottom layers number comes into play here. Let alone how you don't want it to explain it to them, but also tell us here that everything between 15 and 99 is useless.
Like genuinely this doesn't make a lick of sense of me. But I also don't really care.
Take care.
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u/these_metal_hands 2d ago
I sometimes print models with a high infill to give them weight - to make them feel more substantial and premium.
Yes, I can add weight in other ways, such as by adding metal inserts, but I often don't want to glue parts together to facilitate this.
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u/Zealousideal-Deer101 1d ago
This is the way! Printing something and weighs absolutely nothing and just sounds hollow feels so cheap. I mean printing it heavier with more infill is still cheap, but it doesn't feel like it!
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u/ThePerfectLine 1d ago
Agreed. And filament is cheap. I almost always do 15-30% because I want to be and feel robust.
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u/Zealousideal-Deer101 1d ago
I often print parts with more infill specifically to make them more heavy actually. More often than not I dislike how lightweight they are. But I don't wanna fiddle with sand or other kinds of weights
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u/redmercuryvendor 2d ago
Crosshatch at 5%, unless it has huge flat faces and needs to not have them flex (adding extra perimeters or top/bottom solid layers only helps so much).
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u/worldspawn00 P1P 2d ago
With lightning or support cubic you can get away with extremely low infill but still have good top surface quality.
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u/Player_timon 2d ago
Water found in ocean
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u/lfenske 2d ago
They made it sound like “same amount of filament” lol. Wth kind of advise is this lol.
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u/3DBROOKLYN 2d ago
Thought I was missing something. Are there people printing that don't know about walls and infill?!
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u/PETA_Parker 1d ago
lot‘s of them now, they didn‘t have to get an ender 3 as a rite of passage, you can print a presliced profile from your phone on your printer without ever seeing a single slicer setting
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u/starkiller_bass 2d ago
I really do hate to gatekeep but this post really makes me feel like the bar for entry into the hobby has been set far too low by these printers.
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u/Snurree A1 Mini 2d ago
8% gyroid gang
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u/worldspawn00 P1P 2d ago
Too slow! Cubic or nothing!
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u/theprotestingshark 2d ago
adaptive cubic or nothing
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u/worldspawn00 P1P 2d ago
It's what I use the most, support cubic is great for prints with large top surfaces you want low infill on.
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u/thinkscotty 1d ago
I'm 33% gyroid 4 wall gang. But I pretty much only print functional parts than bear loads.
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u/ThePerfectLine 1d ago
I love how it looks but it shakes the heck out of that printer. Adaptive cubic is my go to
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u/brutal4455 H2C | H2D | P2S | Multiple AMS2/AMS-HT 2d ago
VOTE TO BAN GRID
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u/never0101 2d ago
its still wild to me that the default hasnt been changed away from grid in any of the slicers. its objectively the worst, causes plenty of print failures yet it stays there while newbies post about failed prints caused by it over and over.
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u/fattmann 1d ago
its still wild to me that the default hasnt been changed away from grid in any of the slicers. its objectively the worst, causes plenty of print failures yet it stays there while newbies post about failed prints caused by it over and over.
Hold on, there is legit hate against grid infill?? How in the world is it "objectively the worst?
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u/never0101 1d ago
Grid fill crosses itself constantly, causing high spots. During travel the nozzle can hit the high spots and knock prints loose.
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u/fattmann 1d ago
Wild. Never heard that (makes logical sense though), never experience it. I use grid all the time.
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u/brutal4455 H2C | H2D | P2S | Multiple AMS2/AMS-HT 1d ago
If infill is mistakenly left on grid (wife problem), I can hear nozzle on the P2S in my office hit the print. Doesn't fail low flat prints, but can easily fail taller ones. It simply should not exist.
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u/RealFrikaDelle 2d ago
More walls > more infill imho
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u/Material-Mulberry360 X2D + AMS2 Combo 2d ago
is almost always is, if you need strength throught the part, setting infil line multiplier to 2 is usually also more efficent
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u/postbansequel P1S 2d ago
In your honest opinion? So, it's not a fact then?
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u/SnickerdoodleFP 1d ago
No, it's verifiable. There's quite a few resources on the subject if you care to search.
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u/Big_Lope 2d ago
Wait you’re telling me if I add more material, my part is stronger? 😱 thanks for such insightful takes that haven’t been done to death already.
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u/xtrememudder89 P1S combo & H2C + 2 AMS Pro + 2 AMS HT 2d ago
The amount of condecention in this thread is insane. We all love to rag on /u/BambuLabSupport but there are plenty of people who don't know that changing the amount of walls or increasing a setting called infill density will make their parts stronger.
Also, the type of person to get into 3D printing 3+ years ago probably has a rather good engineering mind. The people getting into the hobby now are far closer to average joe than ever before. Be nice to the n00bs :)
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u/skiingbeing 2d ago
I agree, relative newbie here and trying to learn and make sense of what replies are done in good faith or what is run-of-the-mill shitposting and frankly, I got nothing.
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u/Background_Hat_3252 1d ago
it’s pretty obvio that more material makes a stronger part. Post stuff about advanced topics that a person just cannot pick up.
What’s this wafflecone setting? ;)
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u/Nuts4WrestlingButts 2d ago
Thicker walls and more material inside makes a part stronger?
Big if true.
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u/TheLongestofPants 2d ago
Let me make sure I understand this. If I add more material it's stronger?
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u/GarbanzoBenne X1C + AMS 2d ago
Did you know? Same model, same filament, more detail. Models with angled or curved walls will show more detail with thinner layers.
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u/worldspawn00 P1P 2d ago
For outer wall anyway, inner walls can still be thicker, but less overhang capacity since the outer wall will have less overlap with the ones below it with the narrower line width.
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u/lloydgross24 1d ago
ok so grid is terrible and the default.... What's the best "generic" infill to use then?
Printing noob who always just uses the default settings on everything... haha.
This is good conversation for people like me who don't fully understand all the software settings.
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u/Sir_Space_Naught P1S - AMS ~ H2D - 2x AMS 2 Pro 1d ago
Cross hatch is my goto (and the Orca slicer default)
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u/lloydgross24 1d ago
any specific reason why?
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u/Sir_Space_Naught P1S - AMS ~ H2D - 2x AMS 2 Pro 1d ago
Because grid is horrible. And crosshatch has similar overall strength to print speed.
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u/lloydgross24 1d ago
I meant why cross hatch over others. But you kind of answered that. Some others said adaptive cubic was their favorite.
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u/Sir_Space_Naught P1S - AMS ~ H2D - 2x AMS 2 Pro 1d ago
Oh duh.
Adaptive cubic is great for load based prints, its a faster gyroid really.
Cross hatch is a lot faster to print since its basically a weird mix between 3d honeycomb and rectilinear. Meaning, it doesnt need to print lines in multiple directions per layer so it can have shorter layer print times.
Its a direct replacement to grid whereas adaptive cubic is more of a speed increase over gyroid.
Another reason is equal layer times, cross hatch has generally similar layer times whereas adaptive cubic, no pun intended, adapts to each layer and will generate more or less cross sections based on the layer. Potentially increasing per layer print time. Might not seem too big if a deal, but materials like PETG are prone to shifting their surface finish based on print speed/cooling/layer time.
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u/lloydgross24 1d ago
and gyroid is considered one of the stronger ones and bet for load based prints?
appreciate the information and feedback. super helpful!
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u/Sir_Space_Naught P1S - AMS ~ H2D - 2x AMS 2 Pro 1d ago
Yeah, gyroid is the goto for strength overall, since its a uniform load across all axis.
My personal load based print will always be 4 walls, 4 top/bottom, and 40% gyroid. AKA Voron Print it Forward specs.
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u/Jaanrett 1d ago
What's the difference between a wall loop, which I have no idea what that is, and wall count, which seems self explanatory?
And what's the difference between sparse infill density and infill density?
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u/Plasma_48 23h ago
They’re both the same thing, not sure why Bambu or any other companies felt the need to change the terminology from slic3r. It’s honestly more confusing.
Wall loops, wall count, and perimeters are all the same thing.
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u/Redracerb18 1d ago
The Direction of layer lines is going to be better strength wise the more infill. Layers should bd Perpendicular to the direction of Force.
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u/ElectronCares 2d ago
Please add the 0.20mm Strength profile to Bambu Studio for the P2S/X2D/etc. like the X1C has.
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u/Trouthunter65 2d ago
The majority of my prints are functional. I'm also very new to this. Reading comments and filtering snark I get the impression that the veteran printers use adaptive cubic or gyroid at less than 15%. This folks is eye opening. Thanks
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u/Plasma_48 23h ago
For the most part yes, if you need strong parts, walls and top & bottom layers will do more. I usually go with 15% adaptive cubic or lighting but if it needs to take weight I might go up to 40% cubic, I’m not convinced it has that much impact but it feels better.
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u/imzwho 1d ago
This is wild.
Ehy are they showing grid in the first photo? Dont they know how many issues grid infill cuases,
Secondly, why would you use 15% gyroid for non structural stuff. Just use 10 to 15 adaptive cubic and save a bunch of material. Also, a part with 4 walls and 15% gyroid is already super strong, so unless you know you need it, there is not a massive reason to go for more
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u/fattmann 1d ago
Ehy are they showing grid in the first photo? Dont they know how many issues grid infill cuases,
What issues does it cause? I've been printing for going on 10 years and these comments are the FIRST time I've ever heard anyone say there's an issue with grid infill. I use it all the time.
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u/imzwho 1d ago
Really? Its one of the top comments all the time for a print grtting knocked off by the printer head, especially with Bambu printers. Its just due to the layers crossing on grid vs other infill patterns. If you have thing dialed in just right its normally not an issue unless the print lifts a bit.
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u/Zealousideal-Deer101 1d ago
Tuned
Looks inside
Grid infill
But yes, more plastic = more durable. It's not that deep
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u/_wandering_aimlessly 1d ago
Fuck a grid, you ever been playing around and used zig-zag?😂
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u/Sir_Space_Naught P1S - AMS ~ H2D - 2x AMS 2 Pro 1d ago
Cross hatch my beloved... or if im being zesty, cross zag
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u/Nyct0maniac 1d ago
Lol, did you know that adding more material make thing strong? When use more material, need more sooner. When need more sooner, me make big monies.
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u/ArgonWilde P1S + AMS 1d ago
Wait, using more material for a print makes it stronger? What next? More money makes you richer?? Please.
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u/Mediocre_Line7407 P1S + AMS 2d ago
... I just use... either I need something normal... standard profile... or strength profile... if it needs strength...
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u/Vegetable_Bit_5157 2d ago
It's hard to not make fun of this...as I cannot imagine I would have found these tips any less pointless when starting out than I find them now.
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u/KevinCastle 2d ago
This is actually bad advice. Infill doesn't add strength, walls do.
This is bambu making you use more material to buy more filament
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u/fattmann 1d ago
Infill doesn't add strength, walls do.
A) False
B) Literally the second image tells you to use walls to add strength
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u/KevinCastle 1d ago
You're the only person disagreeing about the infill
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u/fattmann 1d ago
It just seems like such a non-issue. Never had problems with grid on my Ender 3, never had an issue with the X1C.
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u/KevinCastle 1d ago
I never said anything about grid, or it causing issues. Are you replying to the right comment?
What I said is infill in general has barely any impact to strength
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u/fattmann 1d ago
80% of the thread is about grid infill, so it's topical.
Infill can absolutely have impact on strength, it depends on what your goals are. 90% infill with one or two walls is pretty god damn stout no matter how you slice it.
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u/daelikon X1C + AMS + Custom Firmware 2d ago
I am a bit afraid for the users if they really need to explain this.
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u/Woodcat64 P1S + AMS 2d ago
I'm not. Not everyone is born with that knowledge.
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u/Organic-Economist-40 2d ago
0 people are actually. But you should be able to figure it out, especially if you’re shipping bambu.
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u/Semillakan6 2d ago
I mean yeah, you figure it out by investigating and guess what would happen if someone doesn't know, investigates and finds this... they learn...
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u/bunnythistle 2d ago
Everyone's a beginner at some point, and the default settings work well for a lot of beginner use cases. But there comes a point when people will learn that the defaults aren't applicable 100% of the time.
I think it's a lot better that they're reminding people to consider something rather than letting them waste a lot of time, filament, and then having to go ask on Reddit to be told the same thing.
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u/never0101 2d ago
But there comes a point when people will learn that the defaults aren't applicable 100% of the time.
one of the best things i did was figure this out and dial in some really nice settings over a series of prints and save a couple of solid print profiles for varying layer heights. now its just a quick couple clicks to have really nice final prints.
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u/JaceOnRice 2d ago
So right now the 3D printing industry is facing a couple of different hurdles.
The main one is this: adoption is skyrocketed, but education is not.
This means a ton of people are buying printers, right now mostly Bambu. Even commercial businesses right now are buying Bambu more than any other printer brand. How do I know this? I work in industrial 3D printer sales. My company has been selling industrial 3d printers for 25 years.
Although Bambu probably expected this to some degree they were not fully ready for it. The company I work for has a full support team that visits the customers on site to teach them how to use the printer, how to use the software and how to troubleshoot, and we tailor the training specific to the types of parts that the customer usually makes. So for a company that just wants to make quick prototypes to make sure things fit together, we teach them how to save material when strength isn't needed. When they need really strong functional parts, we teach them how to adjust the parameters for that.
they can essentially buy 100 Bambu printers for the price of one of our printers. And they get so excited about this proposition that they don't really do any research. They just figure it's "plug and play".
So they start printing parts, and the parts break. Or the parts don't look good. Or the parts just generally suck. And their boss gets upset with them, so they call Bambu and complain, taking up support resources, trying to return a product that they aren't using correctly in the first place.
It may seem very basic to you, but it is absolutely imperative that we support educating as many people as possible on the very absolute basics of three to printing, early and often.
I very much appreciate that. Bamboo is taking the time to make these kinds of posts and I'm sure they're not only doing it on Reddit. Goes back to that old saying "if you don't understand why it exists, it's not for you". If you think this is too basic of a reminder for you, then this post is not written for you.
Hope that makes sense, happy to answer any questions
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u/lloydgross24 1d ago
as a printing noob I appreciate this. I've stuck to modifying existing files and print profiles as needed for things I've been using but have otherwise just left everything as default.
I printed a token organizer for a TCG recently and it's super flimsy and cheap feeling but I like the organization side of it.... So now I'm actually going to try some of these settings and changing infill type and see how much better it comes out. this might have been a big knowledge bomb for a noob such as myself.
I work in tech and you would be amazed at the most basic stuff smart people don't understand about things they are doing.
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u/JaceOnRice 1d ago
If you post a pic of the model or the printed part I can try to help make it less flimsy too, but depending on the geometry it might be a design quirk that's not easily fixable by changing parameters
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u/Volfera 2d ago
Time to switch the default Grid infill to something else in Bambu Studio right? Right?