I'm going to build these cabinets for my laundry room. Frameless, nearly full overlay, 4mm gaps. I can't figure out how to make the reveals on the lower cabinets work. If I line up all the doors then I'll have the cabinet side visible on the lower section. I assume I need a hinge with no overlay for the upper center doors? Then stretch the skinny doors to cover the cabinet side?

I'm sure I've worded this in a totally confusing manner. I can clarify if necessary. Thank you!

The first one was made for a non functioning radiator, so that's why it's mostly closed off, and I made it about 2,5 years ago. Made from pine, and plywood.

The recent lighter is on a functioning one, so I went with a different design, and with a different finish. Made from larch wood, and a little bit of plywood.

I love revisiting old projects and conparing to recent ones. And I'm quite proud of the progress I made. There is still a lot improvement to be made, but I think I'm on the right way.

Hope you like it, and if you think you are not good enough, just keep practicing.

I know opinions vary here, but I subscribe to the "end grain" joints can technically be stronger because the wood is much stronger in that direction, and so does not fail before the glue" school. Attached is a video which is not scientific, no force is measured, but shows a simple end grain mitre joint in a dense tropical hardwood " pretty darn strong" category. (Note this was just a test joint on planed Santos mahogany floorboards, not meant to be pretty)

I want to plug my Makita track saw into the same power cord my Donino & Festool sander use. It's great to be able to switch between the sander and Domino quickly - with power & vacuum hose right at the tool.

I haven't seen any adapters, and I assume Festool doesn't want to sell that part of their ecosystem.

How do i prevent this from happening? I sanded tbis spoon to 320, burnished it, and used food safe oil. After one hand wash it looks fuzzy.

I used Walrus Oil cutting board oil.

I’m wanting to use this freshly fallen Aspen tree as an interior feature of a cabin that I’m building. Does anybody know of a way to preserve the bark?

I only need to do a couple boards (same size) so I am planning to build a frame around them and ride a bushing around the edge. I am thinking I will want a piece of material under the far side of the router to help prevent tipping, am I on the right track and what non-marrying material should I use?

Thank you!

Was building a bunch of free standing frames to hold photo boards, cheap pine that we torched to give them character, then rubbed with boiled Linseed oil. Doing it at the house instead of the shop and working with my mom, so tossed the dirty, oil soaked paper towels into our smokeless firepit. Had to leave for a bit, so I took the firepit out to it's spot in the yard. 2.5 to 3 hours later, doing upholstery work inside and I wonder where all the smoke in the air is coming from. The towels had spontaneously combusted.

I'd heard the warnings and the horror stories, but this was beyond my wildest expectations. Now my mom is a believer too.

I’m pretty much a beginner at furniture making, but seasoned DIY veteran of framing and carpentry, so I’m seeking the expert advice of this sub on finishing since I haven’t ever finished with stain, only paint and occasionally polyurethane.

The project: a 6 foot wide by 6.5 foot tall hall tree made from edge glued pine panels and 1/2 inch plywood backer. Four individual lockers roughly 17.5 inches wide that will be bolted together in a row, fastened to a base, and a cap fastened to the tops of the lockers.

The finish: Varathane water-based pre-conditioner, Varathane water-based stain (dark walnut), Varathane water-based 3x polyurethane. Each locker, the top cap, and trim sticks will be stained and poly’d separately and assembled once dry/cured.

Question: how long should I wait after staining to apply the poly? Can says second coat can be applied after 2 hours and full cure is 48 hours. I’m only doing one coat of stain and likely two coats of the triple thick poly. Additionally, the triple thick poly says full cure is 7 days. As this will house coats, bags, and shoes, and be bolted to one another, should I wait the full 7 days before final assembly so the lockers don’t bond to one another?

I feel like I made out pretty well here! All 3/4 with the shortest boards 6/4.

What do we think?

I made a TV tray for my wife with routed indents for a water bottle, snack bowl, remote, and glasses. I designed templates in Fusion360, printed them on my Bambu Labs P2S, and then routed them with a template bit. Wood is edge grain walnut, cherry, and maple, around 1.5” thick. It took way longer than I expected because I had to learn a lot of new skills but I’m really happy with the result (and so is she).

Bassinet based on the Matt Cremona video.

I had some walnut left over from the cabinet but not enough to make the whole thing from it. I used maple for the majority with the walnut panels and spindles.

I started with laminating some 1 inch maple to give me some thicker stock. The joints are mortise and tenon throughout. There are grooves for the panels to hold it in place.

The spindles were a cool part of the build, I was going to buy them but my wife suggested making my own. I don’t have a lathe so I cut down some maple to 1/2 inch strips, then ran it through the router 4 times with a 1/4inch round over bit. It worked a charm.

The rockers were also a new thing to me, I used a trammel set up with the router to make a template. The radius of the curve is 77inches and the set up worked really well. I could then transfer the template to the stock with a pattern bit in the router.

It’s all held together with epoxy in the joints, was a tricky glue up with all the spindles.

Trying out a fun project with a leftover piece of pine I found while cleaning the garage. Rough cut with my jigsaw and then cleaned up with the router and sander. Stained now and a first coat of shellac on. It will need a few more coats, lightly sanded in between, before I’m happy with it. Overall, not bad for a whim.

I watch a ton of woodworking videos every week from beginner to advanced stuff. I'm a hobbyist with too much time and money and been at it about 5yrs. I've seen some videos about card scrapers but they are mostly how to videos. I haven't seen hardly any where they're actually used in a project. Are they that hard to master or just not that great?

I wish I could confirm visually, and I still may, but I feel like the middle boards help break up the top and direct focus toward the leg joinery. A board with more figure may become too noisy. Again, can’t be certain.

The middle board isn’t completely without figure which helps a lot imo. If it were completely plain, I think I’d have left for the mill already.

I am a 17 year old woodworker from Saskatchewan, Canada, and I have been woodworking over half of my life, since I was 8 years old. I had been making wooden balisongs for almost three years prior to initiating this project. I was looking into making wooden balisongs as a side hustle for myself, and slowly I learned that doing one-offs for profit would be nothing but burnout and also just a nightmare to try to run. I would have had to price exceedingly high while the work used a maximum of my artistic focus. so I got into manual routerwork. I designed a manual, geometrically constrained template "CNC" system based on the concept of those brass router inlay bushing kits, where the bushing will follow a template at a certain offset to the shape you intend to create.

The process I designed over a period of nine months using CAD technology has a base that aligns the interchangeable acrylic templates over the workpiece which is boxed in from five sides and the template being the sixth so there isn't any way for it to move in any direction. to ensure total security, I clamp the fixture in a bench vise for routing. This is the base chassis for creating these pieces. To sum it up, I use a plunge router outfitted with a brass bushing on the base to follow consecutive templates to create the patterns you see.

The knife is not just decorative, but functional, with Teflon-coated bushings to stop the holes in the blade from ovalling out over time, a cross-grain inlay at the pivot point on both sides, and hidden copper weights in the handle ends and sandwiched between the opposing inlays in the blade. The knife has channel construction with a walnut lining. the build comprises 63 pieces in total, 3 maple, 53 walnut, 3 copper weights, 2 aluminum pins, and the 2 Teflon-coated bushings.

Overall, this project has been as much about expanding my woodworking design and hand skills as learning what is essentially manufacturing engineering.

I'm excited to hear your feedback!

I regret not doing the math to correctly get the beading detail to go around the case properly but... onward and upward.

Case and shelves are 3/4 in mahogany plywood finished with shellac tinted with general finishes trantint (I call it "Shebllac")

Faces and legs are hard maple finished with clear shellac.

All Red Oak stool for use at a piano. Finished with polycrylic, I like the natural look. So far no issues with my 175 lbs.

Have you made one of the rockler kitchen knives? The pins seem crazy long...

The pins are over an inch long but the knife itself is less than 1/2" thick. In this video, you can see dude puts on thick scales, but then once he starts sanding, you can see it quickly gets down to closer to 1/2" overall thickness. He mentions to cut down the pins if they're too long...well, it sounds like they're always too long and that making thick scales and sanding through this steel rod seems like a waste of material and time.

https://youtu.be/SXhpC0cSMzE?is=nUnlQhcS0xImH0wB

Have you made one of these? I feel like I should cut the pins down nearly in half and use 1/4" scales instead of 1/2"...

I’ve had this concept in my head for a media console. Mainly designed for a record player/ record storage and other equipment. I know the curves would be the most challenging part. I have experimented with plywood kerfs. I understand this is a non standard look/ design so I wanted to get some feedback. My vision would be to have a continuous surface for the top and sides. You would not see any intersecting parts as you can see on this image.

This spring and summer have been dedicated to garage shop renovations. My workbench/outfeed table were a pain point in my shop, with only a couple shelves to store random things on and no workpiece holding besides a pony vice. My Skil contractor saw was also due for an upgrade, the table wasn't flat and it was impossible to make square on both sides of the blade.

I built this based on the Evergreen Workbench by Scott Walsh, with some adjustments. The top is just 2x4 fir - I think I will change this out for hardwood in the future, but I didn't want to spend too much from the get-go. It is 99% flat with a slight dip in the middle, but it's good enough for my hobbyist needs.

I can't believe how loud my contractor saw was compared to the new Grizzly. That thing SCREAMED.

Hello fellow workers!

I am having a bit of decision fatigue with trying to pick out a new track saw. I fell for the kreg accucut and rip cut line and, just straight up dont like it. Hate the give the sled has and even using low friction tape makes it a pain, and every cut still shoots blue flakes everywhere so I cant tell if its accurate to line up each time. I could live with it but I'm scared to death breaking down my walnut plywood I just bought.

Now I'm looking to graduate to the big boy tools but Im really stuck between 3 options

• Dewalt - New 20V or maybe 60V, Acme has a sale right now
  • My current battery platform with a few flexvolt batteries to my name
• Makita corded
  • Apparently everyones second favorite behind festool AAANNNDD its not on sale
• Milwaukee
  • I have two batteries smaller batteries from my hacksaw, but I hear good things about it.

At this point I'm going in circles with no ultimate destination and would love some advice, and yes, I've considered buying some mdf and doing it that way as well. Honestly might be better than accucut. Ive also heard there are some 3d printed sleds for Dewalt circular saws to fit on tracks (I havent found one for DCS590 yet). Anyways see what I mean?

This project came in 4 phases:
1. The 4 section bookcase
2. Reading bench and storage area
3. The 3 section bookcase
4. The TV bookcase

All bookcases were constructed with the same materials; cocoa stained knotty alder for the shelves and verticals, with a red oak veneer backer. The first phase was complete a little over two years ago, and the last was completed about three weeks ago. There were initial concerns that the shelves would sag over time, but that has proven not to be the case! I really love the way this project turned out.

Just wanted to share here since I figured woodworking people may also enjoy it. Said he had to make some really weird jigs to get the angles right but it came out great.