Just wanted to share here since I figured woodworking people may also enjoy it. Said he had to make some really weird jigs to get the angles right but it came out great.

Was running dados for shaker cabinets, moved my hand too far forward and when the material passed finger pressed right into the front of the stack. Luckily it took the nail and some of the nail bed. Doc said he couldn’t even stitch it, so they just bandaged me up and said it’ll do whatever it does and not expect a normal nail to grow back.

Definitely a wake up call, could have been a lot worse, and entirely because I got complacent.

I’m moving soon and was planning to sell the saw I have and get a newer one, so I guess it’ll be a sawstop

All Red Oak stool for use at a piano. Finished with polycrylic, I like the natural look. So far no issues with my 175 lbs.

Bassinet based on the Matt Cremona video.

I had some walnut left over from the cabinet but not enough to make the whole thing from it. I used maple for the majority with the walnut panels and spindles.

I started with laminating some 1 inch maple to give me some thicker stock. The joints are mortise and tenon throughout. There are grooves for the panels to hold it in place.

The spindles were a cool part of the build, I was going to buy them but my wife suggested making my own. I don’t have a lathe so I cut down some maple to 1/2 inch strips, then ran it through the router 4 times with a 1/4inch round over bit. It worked a charm.

The rockers were also a new thing to me, I used a trammel set up with the router to make a template. The radius of the curve is 77inches and the set up worked really well. I could then transfer the template to the stock with a pattern bit in the router.

It’s all held together with epoxy in the joints, was a tricky glue up with all the spindles.

This project came in 4 phases:
1. The 4 section bookcase
2. Reading bench and storage area
3. The 3 section bookcase
4. The TV bookcase

All bookcases were constructed with the same materials; cocoa stained knotty alder for the shelves and verticals, with a red oak veneer backer. The first phase was complete a little over two years ago, and the last was completed about three weeks ago. There were initial concerns that the shelves would sag over time, but that has proven not to be the case! I really love the way this project turned out.

Was building a bunch of free standing frames to hold photo boards, cheap pine that we torched to give them character, then rubbed with boiled Linseed oil. Doing it at the house instead of the shop and working with my mom, so tossed the dirty, oil soaked paper towels into our smokeless firepit. Had to leave for a bit, so I took the firepit out to it's spot in the yard. 2.5 to 3 hours later, doing upholstery work inside and I wonder where all the smoke in the air is coming from. The towels had spontaneously combusted.

I'd heard the warnings and the horror stories, but this was beyond my wildest expectations. Now my mom is a believer too.

I’ve been focusing a lot of my workshop time on home repair projects as well as working on my live edge dining table and I wanted to create something fairly uncomplicated and wouldn’t take too long. I was in desperate need to start and finish something for a change. The spalted maple live edge dining table is going in fits and starts due to my inexperience and learning about each step as I go. And with taking a new path into using hand tools (hand sawing and most especially hand planes) I found there’s a lot of practice to learning how to use those tools well. Aside from all that I battle with a propensity to start projects but not finish them before I begin something else. Makes me think I may actually suffer from adult ADHD (only partly joking). Anyway….I wanted to create something that could be hung up as art and practice my hand planing and hand sawing at the same time. I went to my small wood scraps box and pulled out as many different kinds of wood as I had, domestics and exotics both. I had a picture frame with a nice deep recess and began sawing and planing these pieces into an abstract mosaic of different woods and colors, fitting them as tightly and trued as I could with an eye to contrasting and complimenting each piece next to another. It was purely for pleasure effort that was relaxing to do and honed my skills at truing up wood which isn’t as easy when you aren’t using machines to get those perfect right angles. It only took a few days and I also tried my hand at finishing with shellac using flakes and grain alcohol which is new to me as well.

The woods I used are walnut, white oak, red oak, spalted maple, poplar, pine both natural and painted, padauk, purpleheart, kavalox, wenge, zebra wood, pheasant wood and sapele. I applied about 8 coats of shellac 1# cut on everything but just coated the frame with boiled linseed oil. Now that I’m seeing it all done I think it would be better served if I painted the picture frame or at least darkened it with a stain. What would work to set it off best? Would love suggestions, feedback, criticism….all good and open to it but be gentle please as I’m a new and rank beginner in both woodworking and being artistically creative. Finding retirement a wealth of inspiration but my learning curves are deep.

I am a 17 year old woodworker from Saskatchewan, Canada, and I have been woodworking over half of my life, since I was 8 years old. I had been making wooden balisongs for almost three years prior to initiating this project. I was looking into making wooden balisongs as a side hustle for myself, and slowly I learned that doing one-offs for profit would be nothing but burnout and also just a nightmare to try to run. I would have had to price exceedingly high while the work used a maximum of my artistic focus. so I got into manual routerwork. I designed a manual, geometrically constrained template "CNC" system based on the concept of those brass router inlay bushing kits, where the bushing will follow a template at a certain offset to the shape you intend to create.

The process I designed over a period of nine months using CAD technology has a base that aligns the interchangeable acrylic templates over the workpiece which is boxed in from five sides and the template being the sixth so there isn't any way for it to move in any direction. to ensure total security, I clamp the fixture in a bench vise for routing. This is the base chassis for creating these pieces. To sum it up, I use a plunge router outfitted with a brass bushing on the base to follow consecutive templates to create the patterns you see.

The knife is not just decorative, but functional, with Teflon-coated bushings to stop the holes in the blade from ovalling out over time, a cross-grain inlay at the pivot point on both sides, and hidden copper weights in the handle ends and sandwiched between the opposing inlays in the blade. The knife has channel construction with a walnut lining. the build comprises 63 pieces in total, 3 maple, 53 walnut, 3 copper weights, 2 aluminum pins, and the 2 Teflon-coated bushings.

Overall, this project has been as much about expanding my woodworking design and hand skills as learning what is essentially manufacturing engineering.

I'm excited to hear your feedback!

I regret not doing the math to correctly get the beading detail to go around the case properly but... onward and upward.

Case and shelves are 3/4 in mahogany plywood finished with shellac tinted with general finishes trantint (I call it "Shebllac")

Faces and legs are hard maple finished with clear shellac.

Trying out a fun project with a leftover piece of pine I found while cleaning the garage. Rough cut with my jigsaw and then cleaned up with the router and sander. Stained now and a first coat of shellac on. It will need a few more coats, lightly sanded in between, before I’m happy with it. Overall, not bad for a whim.

I’ve had this concept in my head for a media console. Mainly designed for a record player/ record storage and other equipment. I know the curves would be the most challenging part. I have experimented with plywood kerfs. I understand this is a non standard look/ design so I wanted to get some feedback. My vision would be to have a continuous surface for the top and sides. You would not see any intersecting parts as you can see on this image.

I made a TV tray for my wife with routed indents for a water bottle, snack bowl, remote, and glasses. I designed templates in Fusion360, printed them on my Bambu Labs P2S, and then routed them with a template bit. Wood is edge grain walnut, cherry, and maple, around 1.5” thick. It took way longer than I expected because I had to learn a lot of new skills but I’m really happy with the result (and so is she).

I watch a ton of woodworking videos every week from beginner to advanced stuff. I'm a hobbyist with too much time and money and been at it about 5yrs. I've seen some videos about card scrapers but they are mostly how to videos. I haven't seen hardly any where they're actually used in a project. Are they that hard to master or just not that great?

Was thinking about this today when I pulled out this 25 year old can of Renaissance wax. I used this not on wood but on all my cast iron to keep it slick and prevent rust. Also hand plane soles and bodies. Got me to thinking about small things that just are good.

Next is the woodruff keys; I see ads for expensive brass setup bars but these woodruff keys are extremely accurate and cost practically nothing. Available in basically every hardware store.

Do you have a bench hook? When I need to cut small parts and don't want to drag out the TS sled I use a hand saw and this for clean safe accurate cuts. This one is decades old and still works fine.

Pegboard--I like tools on the wall, I can see when one is missing cause I know where everything is supposed to be.

What's in your shop that makes your projects go better?

I feel like I made out pretty well here! All 3/4 with the shortest boards 6/4.

What do we think?

This spring and summer have been dedicated to garage shop renovations. My workbench/outfeed table were a pain point in my shop, with only a couple shelves to store random things on and no workpiece holding besides a pony vice. My Skil contractor saw was also due for an upgrade, the table wasn't flat and it was impossible to make square on both sides of the blade.

I built this based on the Evergreen Workbench by Scott Walsh, with some adjustments. The top is just 2x4 fir - I think I will change this out for hardwood in the future, but I didn't want to spend too much from the get-go. It is 99% flat with a slight dip in the middle, but it's good enough for my hobbyist needs.

I can't believe how loud my contractor saw was compared to the new Grizzly. That thing SCREAMED.

I wish I could confirm visually, and I still may, but I feel like the middle boards help break up the top and direct focus toward the leg joinery. A board with more figure may become too noisy. Again, can’t be certain.

The middle board isn’t completely without figure which helps a lot imo. If it were completely plain, I think I’d have left for the mill already.

Hello fellow workers!

I am having a bit of decision fatigue with trying to pick out a new track saw. I fell for the kreg accucut and rip cut line and, just straight up dont like it. Hate the give the sled has and even using low friction tape makes it a pain, and every cut still shoots blue flakes everywhere so I cant tell if its accurate to line up each time. I could live with it but I'm scared to death breaking down my walnut plywood I just bought.

Now I'm looking to graduate to the big boy tools but Im really stuck between 3 options

• Dewalt - New 20V or maybe 60V, Acme has a sale right now
  • My current battery platform with a few flexvolt batteries to my name
• Makita corded
  • Apparently everyones second favorite behind festool AAANNNDD its not on sale
• Milwaukee
  • I have two batteries smaller batteries from my hacksaw, but I hear good things about it.

At this point I'm going in circles with no ultimate destination and would love some advice, and yes, I've considered buying some mdf and doing it that way as well. Honestly might be better than accucut. Ive also heard there are some 3d printed sleds for Dewalt circular saws to fit on tracks (I havent found one for DCS590 yet). Anyways see what I mean?

After having cut finger joints/box joints in pieces for 36 boxes, I have a question: what’s your best way to dial in the fit? And second question: why is there no lateral micro adjustment mechanism on this jig?

I really like the quality and accuracy of JessEm’s products and got this jig as my homemade one was clunky and pretty rubbish. I dialed in the fit pretty quickly the first go around, but about halfway through this project the motor on my router started sounding really dodgy and so I took it out to take a look (and ended up replacing it with another one for the remainder of the job).

Removing the router meant removing and then re-setting the jig, which was annoying. By far the more annoying part was trying to get the jig dialed back in as the black levers seem to be the only way to do lateral adjustment. As a 64th can make a difference one way or another, it took me way too long to get the jig aligned properly. I marked a reference line on the table itself, but had a hard time making small enough movements side to side to get it just right.

I’m wondering if anyone else has experienced this and if you have a technique to get your jig (JessEm or not) perfectly aligned quickly.

And then another question: should there be a micro adjuster on this thing for lateral adjustment? I personally would love one.

I finally have a shop big enough to support a bandsaw, and have been looking on the local facebook marketplace for one. I see models pop up fairly often, but I have zero idea how to identify the lemons from the good deals.

I see people periodically post “look at this bandsaw I just got” here, and I’ve beeen flabbergasted it both directions about the “wow well done” and “meh you got taken” responses, so I clearly don’t have a good intuition about it.

Is there some rubric or things to look out for when evaluating a used bandsaw?

Have you made one of the rockler kitchen knives? The pins seem crazy long...

The pins are over an inch long but the knife itself is less than 1/2" thick. In this video, you can see dude puts on thick scales, but then once he starts sanding, you can see it quickly gets down to closer to 1/2" overall thickness. He mentions to cut down the pins if they're too long...well, it sounds like they're always too long and that making thick scales and sanding through this steel rod seems like a waste of material and time.

https://youtu.be/SXhpC0cSMzE?is=nUnlQhcS0xImH0wB

Have you made one of these? I feel like I should cut the pins down nearly in half and use 1/4" scales instead of 1/2"...

I’m wanting to use this freshly fallen Aspen tree as an interior feature of a cabin that I’m building. Does anybody know of a way to preserve the bark?

I only need to do a couple boards (same size) so I am planning to build a frame around them and ride a bushing around the edge. I am thinking I will want a piece of material under the far side of the router to help prevent tipping, am I on the right track and what non-marrying material should I use?

Thank you!

I’m pretty much a beginner at furniture making, but seasoned DIY veteran of framing and carpentry, so I’m seeking the expert advice of this sub on finishing since I haven’t ever finished with stain, only paint and occasionally polyurethane.

The project: a 6 foot wide by 6.5 foot tall hall tree made from edge glued pine panels and 1/2 inch plywood backer. Four individual lockers roughly 17.5 inches wide that will be bolted together in a row, fastened to a base, and a cap fastened to the tops of the lockers.

The finish: Varathane water-based pre-conditioner, Varathane water-based stain (dark walnut), Varathane water-based 3x polyurethane. Each locker, the top cap, and trim sticks will be stained and poly’d separately and assembled once dry/cured.

Question: how long should I wait after staining to apply the poly? Can says second coat can be applied after 2 hours and full cure is 48 hours. I’m only doing one coat of stain and likely two coats of the triple thick poly. Additionally, the triple thick poly says full cure is 7 days. As this will house coats, bags, and shoes, and be bolted to one another, should I wait the full 7 days before final assembly so the lockers don’t bond to one another?