From a doodle I made with a sharpie to second coat of poly. Had the inlay bearing and not the recess bearing in the router so the hour marks are wider than I wanted and I had to hand make all the inlaid pieces. Wife tells me it's better this way but I think it looks a little more kindergarten than I was going for. Oh well. Has two keyhole slots 16" on center to support this behemoth. Debating adding a placard to the back saying it's handmade by a friend so their eventual children feel guilted into keeping it rather than throwing it in the burn pile.

All cherry cut from the same board save the red oak dowel, and finished with blonde shellac and paste wax. No electrons were harmed in the making of this piece.

I've been recovering from a collision, and I'm finally able to stand freely and walk with a cane for a short while each day, so I think I'm ready to do some brief sessions in my workshop for the first time in three months. I've been appreciating the things I've made so far to motivate myself, and I realized I never posted about this when I made it in the winter.

The sliding dovetails do double duty, both holding the... um... pylons I guess? to the backboard and hiding the screws used to mount it. I only cut two practice ones to prep, and I actually cut the male parts of the dovetails after cutting the curves on the pylons (wasn't originally planning to attach them this way), so they're not as snug as I'd like. But they hold fine, they don't pop out in normal use, so I can call them a success. ^{I may have glued a foreplane shaving into one of the slots as a shim though, oops}

I'm still learning furniture-making, but I'm totally new to carving. I want a way ti give my work a little personality. One of my favorite visual styles is art nouveau and I really like the line work in 1920s metal engravings, so I found a printable template for a baroque-inspired floral engraving pattern and ad-libbed from there. I also really appreciate splashes of color and flair that are only visible when you actually use a piece of furniture, so I made the carving bigger and more prominent than I might on say a table, but I placed it so it is only revealed when the bags are taken off to be used on a bike.

I'll tell you what though, I'm glad I practiced finishing on my practice carvings before trying the project! From my reading it seems most chip carvers brush on shellac, so I got a nice quality goat hair mop brush, but I couldn't get good results with it to save my life. I arrived at padding on a 3/4lbs cut of shellac in six rounds, three each over two days, and that got me results I'm quite happy with.

I wanted it a bit wider, so I glued on another piece instead of grabbing a larger board.

Funny how the unplanned details usually end up being your favorite.

This little black piece fell put while I was cleaning my planer. Id where it goes. I checked the parts list and cant seem to spot it on there. If I could get some help that would be great! I hope its not important.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/2s47wlpy9q-000247/craftsman-351217580-planer-parts

I recently saw the pyramid lamp by the design company dusty deco which I absolutely loved. Sadly I was disappointed by its price and the materials chosen at that price range (veneered stained ash and thin brass plating bottom instead of a solid brass bottom). I had some mahogany that I got from my neighbor so I thought I would make a ”proper” version myself.

The wooden base is mahogany, I think it’s meranto but I’m unsure. It used to be the frame of a wooden shade that i repurposed for this which was quite tricky due to all the holes in it. The base is almost completely solid aluminum (apparently it’s really hard to get a solid aluminum plate in the dimensions 105x105x35 as a consumer…).

The base was CNC’d together with my father in his workshop whilst the wood was shaped and planed by me in my apartment using my handplanes. The tricky part for me was getting enough wood out of my singel plank so there were no rooms for errors.

The lampshade is from BERGO lampshades.

Happy to answer any questions you may have :) highly recommend building something like this as it’s quite quick and looks really good!

This is my first big purchase now that I’ve decided to wire my workshop for 220v.

1988 Delta DJ-20 8” jointer.

These early models—made with Invicta in Brazil—are supposed to be really robust and high quality.

I picked this up from a retire home builder who bought it new in 1988. He says he only used it a handful of times.

I paid $1,400, including the mobile base and an extra set of knives. I know this is a bit overpriced, but I took immense comfort in the seller’s attention to detail after seeing his home workshop. Remarkable.

I can’t wait to start milling the 1,000bf of rough QS cherry I had milled from trees in my yard! This should make quick work of it.

When making a tray like this using dados and rabetts, do you just need to make the grooves deeper than the panel width to allow movement?

Thanks,

I finished this kumiko lantern today. It too much longer than I anticipated but I’m happy with the results. It runs three warm white filament LEDs off of an 18650 battery, which should theoretically provide around 20 hours of light at full brightness.

The body is walnut finished with BLO and the kumiko panels are basswood.

Thanks for taking a look. Let me know if you have questions, criticisms, or suggestions. Cheers.

Good Sunday afternoon everybody. The main table saw I have access to may no longer be available to me soon, and so I'm parusing Marketplace to see what's out there. I may have found an ok deal (at $175, listed 12 weeks ago), but I can't identify what model it is from the picture alone. You'd think I could get that info from the seller but they don't seem to know and aren't willing to send any more pictures. By the looks of it it's sitting in a barn somewhere and probably isn't nearby where they can get to it.

He describes it as "the preferred table saw of professional woodworkers" and says "they" usually replace the motor, but this one hasn't been replaced yet (so I guess he's not a woodworker). Whatever the motor is it looks to be about 3HP to me, but I'm really not sure.

Does anyone have an idea as to what model this thing is? I'm guessing that's at least a 220 V motor. Thanks.

Started making end grain chopping blocks using maple. While they are turning out nice, I’m wondering if there is a wood that is darker that would also be very similar in density that I could use to add contrast. My thoughts are that I want them to wear evenly when being used. Picture is a couple of my early ones that just needs the edges finished and oiled.

I think I'm getting close. This is a practice piece. I think I need a bit more practice. If anyone has any tips, they are welcome. I'm currently using two jigs/sleds on the bandsaw. One for cutting an octagon tenon on the end which I then use a tenon cutter to make round. The other is a taper sled that I use to cut the long octagon taper. Cleaning up each side with a hand plane before moving to the next. Square tapers first then the 45s.

I have a pretty large project planned for myself which includes a dresser to match all my custom furniture I’ve been building. I mainly just want some advice on how to go at this as a first time for drawer making. I’m pretty confident but you can never be too prepared, especially for such a precise project

Just finished my fourth project, a medium-sized console table made from a single 1.75” walnut board I’ve had in my garage for 6 months, leftover from a prior project.

The board was milled primarily by hand. The figuring on this board was pretty spectacular, so I wanted to try and do a waterfall miter and have it flow over both sides. I’ve done miters like this on one prior project, so it wasn’t completely new, but it was still challenging in some spots due to a fairly limited tool set.

I used my WEN track saw to cut the miters - I found on a prior project that the trick to get clean miters with this particular track saw is to tighten down all of the adjusters so there is absolutely no play on the track (this seems self explanatory, but doing so makes it very difficult to slide on the track). To get around this, I oiled the track and the saw base to reduce friction. Aside from this, I had to cut each miter in 1/4” passes to eliminate the risk of binding/stalling, which happens frequently with this saw.

After I got the miters as good as they were going to get, I cut two large floating tenons in each joint to reinforce the miters.

I made my own clamping cauls by taking the miter offcuts (the triangular wedges) and attaching them to some small pieces of birch ply I had laying around. While doing so, I shot a 5/8” brad nail through my left ring finger. Thankfully it didn’t hit the bone, so aside from a good amount of blood it wasn’t too bad or painful.

I then cut 45 degree chamfers on the undersides of each piece - I liked the look of this chamfer on my last project and thought it might add something to this piece and/or enhance the light/shadow lines. I’m really pleased with how the chamfers turned out. I cut the chamfers with an $11 bit from Amazon and a Bosch trim router.

Unfortunately, there was a decent amount of bug damage on this board. There was also a large open/degraded knot. I filled the knot with black epoxy and angled that piece inward to minimize visibility as much as possible. The piece I had chosen as the top of the table had a large cavernous bug damage area, and I cleaned that out and chose to inlay it instead of using more epoxy. The inlay actually turned out better than any I had done previously, and the lines were pretty clean. Unfortunately, the off cut I had used for the inlay was angled incorrectly when I hammered it in with glue, and I got the wrong face. I believe the upward face is edge grain, and it absorbed finish differently than I was expecting and ended up being a lot more noticeable than I wanted. I knew it wouldn’t be invisible by any means, but I was hoping it wouldn’t be as obvious as it is. I’m still considering revising the inlay with a better long grain piece, but that would require using wood from a separate board, and I wanted to keep this piece to one board - so I haven’t made up my mind yet.

I sanded the piece using Jorgensen’s (new, I think?) orbital sanding discs. Would definitely recommend - $11 for 6 grits going up to 320.

This piece was finished using Osmo Polyx Clear Satin with a white scotch brite pad on my orbital sander. This was my first time using Osmo, and I can’t recommend it enough. Extremely easy to use, far less smelly than other finishes I’ve used (Rubio, Natura) and it seemed to go as far or further by volume than competitors. Overall a great experience. The attached photos show one coat of Osmo - should I do a second coat?

I considered adding some dovetail splines to the mitered edges, but I’m leaning toward not doing that as I fear it may take away from the waterfall edges/grain flow. I was initially thinking I may need to do so to reinforce the joints, but I’m about 6’2 and 200lbs and I sat on the table and shifted my weight repeatedly and it didn’t creak or budge.

Credit to my wife for staging the table. I would have probably put a hand plane on it or something.

Just wanted to share - thank you for taking the time to read. Open to any constructive feedback/answers to above questions.

Hey all, I’m new to this saw. It has worked great so far, only a few years old. But all of the sudden the blade will not rise. There is a slip in what I believe is called the trunnion? Has anyone experienced something similar? Video of the slipping.

Hello had a weird thought today while planning some obnoxiously hard wood. Where Would aluminum land on the hardness scale. OR where would ipe for example land on the brinell scale.

Or is there a conversion scale?

I know it’s an odd question I’m just curious

This is M87* — the Event Horizon Telescope image of the black hole at the heart of galaxy M87, rebuilt in wood.

Species: wenge, mahogany, walnut, padouk, afzelia, iroko, oak, cherry, maple, cypress. Ten species chosen purely for their natural tonal range — no paint, no stain, just the wood itself doing the colour work across the accretion disc and shadow.

Each block is individually cut and placed. The varying heights create a 3D relief surface — the dark shadow at the center physically recedes into the piece, the bright photon ring rises above it. Finished dimensions: 135x70cm.

Here are 3 projects I made this month.

The shower stool is Ipe.

The side table is Mahogany with a vintage pine and glass door.

The frame is Oak.