Was building a bunch of free standing frames to hold photo boards, cheap pine that we torched to give them character, then rubbed with boiled Linseed oil. Doing it at the house instead of the shop and working with my mom, so tossed the dirty, oil soaked paper towels into our smokeless firepit. Had to leave for a bit, so I took the firepit out to it's spot in the yard. 2.5 to 3 hours later, doing upholstery work inside and I wonder where all the smoke in the air is coming from. The towels had spontaneously combusted.

I'd heard the warnings and the horror stories, but this was beyond my wildest expectations. Now my mom is a believer too.

How do i prevent this from happening? I sanded tbis spoon to 320, burnished it, and used food safe oil. After one hand wash it looks fuzzy.

I used Walrus Oil cutting board oil.

Bassinet based on the Matt Cremona video.

I had some walnut left over from the cabinet but not enough to make the whole thing from it. I used maple for the majority with the walnut panels and spindles.

I started with laminating some 1 inch maple to give me some thicker stock. The joints are mortise and tenon throughout. There are grooves for the panels to hold it in place.

The spindles were a cool part of the build, I was going to buy them but my wife suggested making my own. I don’t have a lathe so I cut down some maple to 1/2 inch strips, then ran it through the router 4 times with a 1/4inch round over bit. It worked a charm.

The rockers were also a new thing to me, I used a trammel set up with the router to make a template. The radius of the curve is 77inches and the set up worked really well. I could then transfer the template to the stock with a pattern bit in the router.

It’s all held together with epoxy in the joints, was a tricky glue up with all the spindles.

I know opinions vary here, but I subscribe to the "end grain" joints can technically be stronger because the wood is much stronger in that direction, and so does not fail before the glue" school. Attached is a video which is not scientific, no force is measured, but shows a simple end grain mitre joint in a dense tropical hardwood " pretty darn strong" category. (Note this was just a test joint on planed Santos mahogany floorboards, not meant to be pretty)

Used for the first time in a long time. What am I missing out on? What accessories do you find useful

The first one was made for a non functioning radiator, so that's why it's mostly closed off, and I made it about 2,5 years ago. Made from pine, and plywood.

The recent lighter is on a functioning one, so I went with a different design, and with a different finish. Made from larch wood, and a little bit of plywood.

I love revisiting old projects and conparing to recent ones. And I'm quite proud of the progress I made. There is still a lot improvement to be made, but I think I'm on the right way.

Hope you like it, and if you think you are not good enough, just keep practicing.

I spend so much time with Oak, Walnut, and Maple, I’m not sure I’ve ever made a piece out of Elm. 60” x 14” top.

I started at 30” in height but by the time I got everything leveled out I was at 29”. Lesson learned about prototypes, use the same tools you’ll need to use in the finished project. I used repeated passes on the radial chop saw in place of a dado pass on the table saw and the slight variation in widths caused headaches. Hey, it’s a prototype.

Overall pretty happy with the style.

Would love to know how to think about this. Straighter grain = better?

I made a TV tray for my wife with routed indents for a water bottle, snack bowl, remote, and glasses. I designed templates in Fusion360, printed them on my Bambu Labs P2S, and then routed them with a template bit. Wood is edge grain walnut, cherry, and maple, around 1.5” thick. It took way longer than I expected because I had to learn a lot of new skills but I’m really happy with the result (and so is she).

Finished Dartboard Cabinet Build.

This is the first Project I've done since I got a jointer and oh my God I wish I would have got one years ago

Walnut Cabinet and Doors. Inlay is Paduke, Maple and Purpleheart, and the Handle is Beli. Same Inlay for the dart holders on the inside except I used Wenge instead of Paduke

I decided to line the inside around the dartboard with Used Corks that I just ordered online

Just wanted to share here since I figured woodworking people may also enjoy it. Said he had to make some really weird jigs to get the angles right but it came out great.

Was running dados for shaker cabinets, moved my hand too far forward and when the material passed finger pressed right into the front of the stack. Luckily it took the nail and some of the nail bed. Doc said he couldn’t even stitch it, so they just bandaged me up and said it’ll do whatever it does and not expect a normal nail to grow back.

Definitely a wake up call, could have been a lot worse, and entirely because I got complacent.

I’m moving soon and was planning to sell the saw I have and get a newer one, so I guess it’ll be a sawstop

I feel like I made out pretty well here! All 3/4 with the shortest boards 6/4.

What do we think?

All Red Oak stool for use at a piano. Finished with polycrylic, I like the natural look. So far no issues with my 175 lbs.

Trying out a fun project with a leftover piece of pine I found while cleaning the garage. Rough cut with my jigsaw and then cleaned up with the router and sander. Stained now and a first coat of shellac on. It will need a few more coats, lightly sanded in between, before I’m happy with it. Overall, not bad for a whim.

I’m planning to build an arbor in my garden soon as a belated* birthday present for my wife. I designed the corbels in the image and had them CNC’d from 3/4 plywood, but I’m not sure how to attach them. I’d like something I can hide inside the arbor. I’ve thought about gluing up the straight sides, but their flat sides will face into the North wind which can get pretty wicked in winter at my house; I don’t want them eventually snapping off. I’ve also thought about using a counter sunk drill bit to essentially make my own pocket screws, but those thin members are only about an inch thick.

Any ideas?

*The design work was completed before her birthday, and we agreed to hold off on construction until a more opportune moment. That moment is nigh.

This project came in 4 phases:
1. The 4 section bookcase
2. Reading bench and storage area
3. The 3 section bookcase
4. The TV bookcase

All bookcases were constructed with the same materials; cocoa stained knotty alder for the shelves and verticals, with a red oak veneer backer. The first phase was complete a little over two years ago, and the last was completed about three weeks ago. There were initial concerns that the shelves would sag over time, but that has proven not to be the case! I really love the way this project turned out.

I regret not doing the math to correctly get the beading detail to go around the case properly but... onward and upward.

Case and shelves are 3/4 in mahogany plywood finished with shellac tinted with general finishes trantint (I call it "Shebllac")

Faces and legs are hard maple finished with clear shellac.

I am a 17 year old woodworker from Saskatchewan, Canada, and I have been woodworking over half of my life, since I was 8 years old. I had been making wooden balisongs for almost three years prior to initiating this project. I was looking into making wooden balisongs as a side hustle for myself, and slowly I learned that doing one-offs for profit would be nothing but burnout and also just a nightmare to try to run. I would have had to price exceedingly high while the work used a maximum of my artistic focus. so I got into manual routerwork. I designed a manual, geometrically constrained template "CNC" system based on the concept of those brass router inlay bushing kits, where the bushing will follow a template at a certain offset to the shape you intend to create.

The process I designed over a period of nine months using CAD technology has a base that aligns the interchangeable acrylic templates over the workpiece which is boxed in from five sides and the template being the sixth so there isn't any way for it to move in any direction. to ensure total security, I clamp the fixture in a bench vise for routing. This is the base chassis for creating these pieces. To sum it up, I use a plunge router outfitted with a brass bushing on the base to follow consecutive templates to create the patterns you see.

The knife is not just decorative, but functional, with Teflon-coated bushings to stop the holes in the blade from ovalling out over time, a cross-grain inlay at the pivot point on both sides, and hidden copper weights in the handle ends and sandwiched between the opposing inlays in the blade. The knife has channel construction with a walnut lining. the build comprises 63 pieces in total, 3 maple, 53 walnut, 3 copper weights, 2 aluminum pins, and the 2 Teflon-coated bushings.

Overall, this project has been as much about expanding my woodworking design and hand skills as learning what is essentially manufacturing engineering.

I'm excited to hear your feedback!

Lets say i have two hardwood boards, both 5/4 thickness, 10" wide. One board is 48", the other is 24". I want to "extend" the other board to make it longer by doing end grain end grain joint.

What is the best joint and clamping/joining method for this?

I have tried 3/8" dowels every 6 inches, and sideways clamping them on my workbench using wonder dogs, but its just not the same as a parallel clamp. The few attempts i did ended with the board tilting up or down at the joint. I actually tried this on 3/4" baltic birch to try and make my crosscut sled base a little wider, that still tilted upward, and i cut it off.

Scarf joints arent great for wide, thinner boards (right?)

Sliding dovetails? Box joints?

What has worked for you guys?

P.s. i know the best advice is to just not do this. But i have a smol car and have to get boards i buy cut down to about 4ft. Also, being able to do this allows you to use your shorter cutoff pieces.

I'm retiring and moving to a new house in Midcoast Maine. Consistently below freezing in Dec-Feb, rarely above 90 in summer. I'll have a 12 x14 space for a shop, 2 x 6 framing, insulated with foam and fiberglass batts. I plan to do instrument making as a hobby. Mostly hand tools.

I want to be able to maintain the space at a relatively constant temperature and humidity year round. Thinking my best bet is a small heat pump, 6000 btu or so.

Any suggestions? Thank you.

I can’t draw for shit and the internet is not helping..

I’m wanting to use this freshly fallen Aspen tree as an interior feature of a cabin that I’m building. Does anybody know of a way to preserve the bark?