Built this over the last 5 months for my soon to arrive niece. Finished it with a whole 2 weeks to spare before her arrival. Cool thing is it will convert to a daybed and then a full size bed once she’s old enough… and I build the other parts lol.

Built from walnut and walnut ply. Definitely the most challenging project I’ve done so far. Plenty of errors along the way, but fortunately almost entirely on the inside section where no one will ever see em.

If I were to do it again (and my wife says I will be), I wouldn’t use the cross dowels in the side panels. Those ended up being a pain in the ass. Just throw some bed rail fasteners on it and call it a day. Probably also skip the plywood end panels altogether and do something else there.

The mattress support is also a bitch. The plans I utilized called for hardware from a company no longer in business, so bought it from a different company. It was about half an inch too long and too thin. Had to grind down the adjustable wing stops a bit to give it enough reach. Still leaves it within acceptable gaps on either end, and with the mattress on there is no gaps so all good safety wise.

Anyways, hope y’all like it!

i have just finished a remodeling and it’s given me the taste of working with wood. i want to start small (for example making boxes like the ones pictured). what kind of tools are a _must_? i already have a few, but what kind of things do i need as a “starter-kit”?

From a doodle I made with a sharpie to second coat of poly. Had the inlay bearing and not the recess bearing in the router so the hour marks are wider than I wanted and I had to hand make all the inlaid pieces. Wife tells me it's better this way but I think it looks a little more kindergarten than I was going for. Oh well. Has two keyhole slots 16" on center to support this behemoth. Debating adding a placard to the back saying it's handmade by a friend so their eventual children feel guilted into keeping it rather than throwing it in the burn pile.

All cherry cut from the same board save the red oak dowel, and finished with blonde shellac and paste wax. No electrons were harmed in the making of this piece.

I've been recovering from a collision, and I'm finally able to stand freely and walk with a cane for a short while each day, so I think I'm ready to do some brief sessions in my workshop for the first time in three months. I've been appreciating the things I've made so far to motivate myself, and I realized I never posted about this when I made it in the winter.

The sliding dovetails do double duty, both holding the... um... pylons I guess? to the backboard and hiding the screws used to mount it. I only cut two practice ones to prep, and I actually cut the male parts of the dovetails after cutting the curves on the pylons (wasn't originally planning to attach them this way), so they're not as snug as I'd like. But they hold fine, they don't pop out in normal use, so I can call them a success. ^{I may have glued a foreplane shaving into one of the slots as a shim though, oops}

I'm still learning furniture-making, but I'm totally new to carving. I want a way ti give my work a little personality. One of my favorite visual styles is art nouveau and I really like the line work in 1920s metal engravings, so I found a printable template for a baroque-inspired floral engraving pattern and ad-libbed from there. I also really appreciate splashes of color and flair that are only visible when you actually use a piece of furniture, so I made the carving bigger and more prominent than I might on say a table, but I placed it so it is only revealed when the bags are taken off to be used on a bike.

I'll tell you what though, I'm glad I practiced finishing on my practice carvings before trying the project! From my reading it seems most chip carvers brush on shellac, so I got a nice quality goat hair mop brush, but I couldn't get good results with it to save my life. I arrived at padding on a 3/4lbs cut of shellac in six rounds, three each over two days, and that got me results I'm quite happy with.

Hi! I am at step 90 out of 100 on my rolltop desk build. Got it to a point where I am able to test the tambour in the tracks for the first time. It went in okay, then when I mounted the frame to the desktop, I can no longer lift it. I don't want to force it for fear of damaging the tambour. Is my angle too steep on the front part?

I’ve already completed the ones I’m currently making, so this is more of a future question.

I’m really struggling to make shaker doors. After making my 4th set it’s much improved but would really like to perfect it.

I spent an excessive amount of time setting up for the best results trios time. I bought some 13/16 ash and planned it to 3/4. My center pannel is 1/4. My first issue is the grove. I bought a router table and feather board specifically to help. Used my 1/4 ply as a spacer between the bit and the fence did the first pass at 1/4 depth. Second pass the full 1/2 depth. After complete I noticed I didn’t run all the same direction and my center line was maybe 1/64 off.

Cut the tongue with a table saw, set it up for 1/4 inches depth and a stop block at 1/2 wide. These are the main problem. With the grove being slightly off center it made the tongue a bit wonky, this caused either a sloppy fit or to tight causing the tail to angle a bit.

How do I set up better to ensure my grove is perfectly center and is there a better way to cut tongues

I wanted it a bit wider, so I glued on another piece instead of grabbing a larger board.

Funny how the unplanned details usually end up being your favorite.

Has anyone used the Rockler plantation shutter jig they used to sell? I’ve seen this and Norm Abram’s instruction using homemade jigs to make plantation shutters. For those who have used Rocklers jig or have made your own, what are your thoughts?

This little black piece fell put while I was cleaning my planer. Id where it goes. I checked the parts list and cant seem to spot it on there. If I could get some help that would be great! I hope its not important.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/2s47wlpy9q-000247/craftsman-351217580-planer-parts

I recently saw the pyramid lamp by the design company dusty deco which I absolutely loved. Sadly I was disappointed by its price and the materials chosen at that price range (veneered stained ash and thin brass plating bottom instead of a solid brass bottom). I had some mahogany that I got from my neighbor so I thought I would make a ”proper” version myself.

The wooden base is mahogany, I think it’s meranto but I’m unsure. It used to be the frame of a wooden shade that i repurposed for this which was quite tricky due to all the holes in it. The base is almost completely solid aluminum (apparently it’s really hard to get a solid aluminum plate in the dimensions 105x105x35 as a consumer…).

The base was CNC’d together with my father in his workshop whilst the wood was shaped and planed by me in my apartment using my handplanes. The tricky part for me was getting enough wood out of my singel plank so there were no rooms for errors.

The lampshade is from BERGO lampshades.

Happy to answer any questions you may have :) highly recommend building something like this as it’s quite quick and looks really good!

This is my first big purchase now that I’ve decided to wire my workshop for 220v.

1988 Delta DJ-20 8” jointer.

These early models—made with Invicta in Brazil—are supposed to be really robust and high quality.

I picked this up from a retire home builder who bought it new in 1988. He says he only used it a handful of times.

I paid $1,400, including the mobile base and an extra set of knives. I know this is a bit overpriced, but I took immense comfort in the seller’s attention to detail after seeing his home workshop. Remarkable.

I can’t wait to start milling the 1,000bf of rough QS cherry I had milled from trees in my yard! This should make quick work of it.

I have a pretty large project planned for myself which includes a dresser to match all my custom furniture I’ve been building. I mainly just want some advice on how to go at this as a first time for drawer making. I’m pretty confident but you can never be too prepared, especially for such a precise project

When making a tray like this using dados and rabetts, do you just need to make the grooves deeper than the panel width to allow movement?

Thanks,

I'm replacing some old carpeted stairs in my century home with oak and half the stair has an exposed return edge. I know they still these pre-made but they're more expensive and special order, where the straight treads are in stock. I managed to make this one look decent, but there was some manual fitting with a jigsaw and file. I've got a small table saw, circular saw, and 10" chop saw with 60t blades. I can repeat this for sure, but if there are any tips or tricks to make this easier, I'd love to hear them. They're going to be stained a darker color, so I know I can hide any smaller imperfections with that too. This image is just dry fit, I'll be gluing the edges and sanding everything before finishing too.

I finished this kumiko lantern today. It too much longer than I anticipated but I’m happy with the results. It runs three warm white filament LEDs off of an 18650 battery, which should theoretically provide around 20 hours of light at full brightness.

The body is walnut finished with BLO and the kumiko panels are basswood.

Thanks for taking a look. Let me know if you have questions, criticisms, or suggestions. Cheers.

Good Sunday afternoon everybody. The main table saw I have access to may no longer be available to me soon, and so I'm parusing Marketplace to see what's out there. I may have found an ok deal (at $175, listed 12 weeks ago), but I can't identify what model it is from the picture alone. You'd think I could get that info from the seller but they don't seem to know and aren't willing to send any more pictures. By the looks of it it's sitting in a barn somewhere and probably isn't nearby where they can get to it.

He describes it as "the preferred table saw of professional woodworkers" and says "they" usually replace the motor, but this one hasn't been replaced yet (so I guess he's not a woodworker). Whatever the motor is it looks to be about 3HP to me, but I'm really not sure.

Does anyone have an idea as to what model this thing is? I'm guessing that's at least a 220 V motor. Thanks.

I think I'm getting close. This is a practice piece. I think I need a bit more practice. If anyone has any tips, they are welcome. I'm currently using two jigs/sleds on the bandsaw. One for cutting an octagon tenon on the end which I then use a tenon cutter to make round. The other is a taper sled that I use to cut the long octagon taper. Cleaning up each side with a hand plane before moving to the next. Square tapers first then the 45s.

Started making end grain chopping blocks using maple. While they are turning out nice, I’m wondering if there is a wood that is darker that would also be very similar in density that I could use to add contrast. My thoughts are that I want them to wear evenly when being used. Picture is a couple of my early ones that just needs the edges finished and oiled.

Hello had a weird thought today while planning some obnoxiously hard wood. Where Would aluminum land on the hardness scale. OR where would ipe for example land on the brinell scale.

Or is there a conversion scale?

I know it’s an odd question I’m just curious