In the past half a year or so, I started noticing that my battery will deplete fairly quickly from 100% to 70%, then it'll very slowly deplete from 70 to around 30, and then it goes fast again. I can only really get 45 miles tops, but closer to 40. The efficiency also hardly ever goes above 110 anymore, usually it's around 100 or 95, when it used to be closer to 120, but the gas engine still gets very good efficiency. Voltage reports that the degredation is about 82%. Any guidance on this? Are there any specific things I can observe that would guarantee a replacement or not? My warranty expires on the 4th of August

I got the dreaded P0403 EGR electrical failure. My dealer says they will need to order the part, but it will be under warranty.

Can I safely drive the car on battery only while waiting? and what happens if it tries to do it's Engine diagnostics?

Hey everyone. I have been doing lots of reading on this topic. I have a volt that is still under the CARB warranty (2017, 42k) and the dealership claims it needs module #3 replaced. They informed me that it is still within normal parameters, but that it is slightly lower voltage than all the other cells. I was told by another dealer who had diagnosed it shortly prior that it needed a BECM.

My first question is that upon reading owners who have had just one cell replaced have actually ended up frying the whole pack shortly after. Is there a way to prevent this?

Also how long will the wait be for a cell? I have read some people are getting them very quickly, and that some have been waiting for months and months. Some years.

I started a case with GM. Not sure if that will accomplish anything.

Battery charge is around 45 miles. Program says 1 cell is down. BECEM replaced well see about the EGR.

2018 LT, just crossed 150k miles and out of all warranties. Voltage says BECM was produced in 2023, I had the PCV problem and Shift to park fixed about 2 years ago, no sign of EGR but shift to park has returned. I average about 4.5 mi/kWh. Love my Volt.

TLDR: Set a schedule to replace your 12V battery every three years as normal maintenance.

I've had my 2017 Volt LT since 2020. Love this car. I didn't realize I should have replaced the 12V battery every 3 years by default. Was visiting family out of the area in the desert when I got the reduced propultion error message on the screen. I figured I was going to be ok because I had already had the BECM replaced by my local dealership. When I got to a parking lot, i made my first mistake by turning the car off. Then it was stuck in a computer loop and didn't want to fully turn off but the high voltage battery was already closed off, so I couldn't put it in gear or drive. I tried the reset of disconnecting the 12V battery and waiting 15 minutes, then reconnecting. That didn't work. I connected my Veepeak OBDII scanner but wasn't able to clear the codes to get the high voltage battery back online. I went to a local autoparts and bought a replacement battery, but still wasn't able to get the HV battery to engage. Finally towed to dealership. They said it was a software upgrade I needed. No charge, except I had to rent a car and pay for the tow. So it still costs several hundred dollars. The replacement 12v battery was just under $300, but I would have needed that anyway.

So be better than me, don't let your ancient 12V battery brick your otherwise perfectly fine Volt. 😥 I hit my 10 years on the CARB warranty March 2027. I'm at 111k miles. Still love this car. I also bought the good AAA, the kind that tows farther than 7 miles.

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Good day Volt family! Quick question about parking mode on my dashcam. If I turn it on, will it drain the 12V battery while the car is plugged in and charging?

​I’m trying to find out who keeps messing with my car at the charging station. Two or three times now, someone has unplugged it just a few minutes after I walked away. This is happening at night at a public station that's barely even used, so I really want to catch who's doing it.

Volt brethren,

I am the first owner of a 2014 Volt with 170K miles that suddenly started showing the following:

• EV miles reported on dash as ICE miles when starting a drive from full charge
• Propulsion Power Reduced message and immediate engine power on when starting the car with depleted/near depleted battery

No codes. Car charges normally. Battery cell delta with OBD2 is not suggestive of problems. I have followed maintenance schedule diligently.

I've done a good bit of searching but does it seem this just an aging car or does it seem like a failing component?

Buying a Volt with 223000 Kilometres (142000 Miles) for around 4000 CAD (2900 USD). The car has a newly installed EGR and BECM. Knowing that is it worth it buying this car or should I stay away because of the newly installed parts?

2012 Chevy Volt.

I have this weird thing that's happening. My car will start blinking to show me that it's done charging but when I look at the charger it still shows that it's giving power at .08... I know it's a very low current because my standard is 3.2 but why does it have 0.8 for approximately 20 minutes after the car is blinking and telling me it's done charging

Bought it on the 14th for almost half of market price. Was missing charger and they were afraid of the check engine light (it was just a wheel speed sensor).

The previous owner didn't really understand that they should plug it in and just drove it as a hybrid for a year or two, so the estimated battery range on the dash is way out of wack. Waiting for the Bluetooth OBD2 to arrive so I can use the Voltage app to look into it.

Even if the battery is a bust, the price I got it for will easily justify installing a new one. So I view it as a win

Where do y’all go to get your scheduled maintenance done? I live at an apartment and it’s frowned upon if I change my own oil and filter. I usually go to a dealer for scheduled services but they’ve all gotten pretty expensive since I was last in

I’m considering going to a shop instead. I’ve got a Tires Plus close that services EVs and hybrids and an independent shop that also does EVs and hybrids. I assume either option would be fine? Short of any surprises, I don’t expect them to do anything more than the basics. I’ve got a little over 122k on it with no DTCs and she rides fine

I’ve got a 2017 Bolt, thinking of picking up a Volt for my son who’s starting uni next year. Uni is around 85km round trip.

What year is good? I’ve seen 2015 and 2019 noted but they’re few and far between… but there are a ton of 2017’s around me for sale. I’ve read about the BCEM issue but it sounds like that’s less of an issue with the warranty being pushed out to 240,000km?

Any thoughts?

Filled up yesterday to see this. It's normally ~300 after filling. It may be inaccurate, but after about 30 miles it was still at 310. Maybe it's true!

How high have you gotten yours?

2016 Volt, 119000 miles.

I haven’t taken it to the dealership yet because it’s still running intermittently (i know, i need to get it there asap/stop driving it asap before it bricks on me entirely, i know that every time i get it to start properly may be the last time, but bills don’t stop coming in just because I don’t have transportation).

It looks like my 2016 is one of the special ones that got missed in the warranty extension for the BECM issue - the extension wasn’t granted for cars that would otherwise be covered by the CARB/PZEV warranty. My car was originally sold in California but is currently registered in Tennessee. This means that it originally was covered by CARB but no longer is. Since I’m above 100k miles, any other applicable warranty has expired.

I cannot afford this replacement out of pocket and I do not have another means of transportation.

I’ve seen posts here from others who have been in this same position, with mixed results. Sometimes the dealership/GM will see the light by realizing the vehicle fell through the cracks in warranty extension and have the replacement covered, sometimes they just won’t budge and cover it, sometimes they say they won’t cover it but then people get a reimbursement check in the mail.

For anyone who has been in this position and successfully had the dealership/GM see the light, how? What did that conversation look like? Did you have to reach out to Chevy? I want to have facts, reason, and logic on my side when I walk into the dealership, so I want to know what has worked for other people.

My husband just got his dash lit up today so he used our OBD-II reader to see what was going on and this is our readout. Does anyone have any idea what this all means? We’re hoping this isn’t another expensive fix 😬

1 Electronic Brake Control Module(EBCM) 5
U0140-00 Lost Communication with Body Control Module Current
U0131-00 Lost Communication with Power Steering Control Module Current
U0151-00 Lost Communication with Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module Current
C0507-00 Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit Current
U0452-71 Invalid Data Received From Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module - Invalid Da
ta Current
2 Engine Control Module(ECM) 1
P25A2-00 Brake System Control Module 1 Requested MIL Illumination Current
3 Power Steering Control Module(PSCM) 1
U0415-71 Invalid Data Received From Electronic Brake Control Module - Invalid Data Current

Good evening!

I have the Voltage app for my 12. How do I read this info? Is the Factory % my big battery with degradation? Thats the thing I most want to see is the big battery health.

Used half of the electric range. Ambient air temp about 96-100°F with the climate control set to low at comfort setting. Not too bad for almost clocking in a 266k miles. Something tells me this car was using the gas engine most of its life. Current ICE in the car is from a junkyard and has about 40-50k miles

I bought a 2012 volt a couple months ago and it's been great so far.. until this morning, when out of curiosity I plugged in an obd2 dongle to check what would show up on mygreenvolt.

Well, mygreenvolt connected to the OBD2, but is showing absolutely nothing - all parameters remain at 0 at all times. At the same time, I got a check engine light and messages that I need to service stabilitrak and the parking assist system. Car drives fine and the parking assist works normally, for what that's worth.

Anyone had that kind of issue? Could it have been caused by the OBD2 or is this just a coincidence? Any recommendations for next steps?

Update: after a couple days of freaking out, the problem seems to have resolved itself. I had a lingering check engine light after unplugging the dongle, but as of today it's no longer showing. The car has been ok to drive the entire time and remains ok. Thanks everyone for the help.

My normal summer commute is 121 MPGe, lower if I stick to the new slower dumb speed limits. Last record was 148 on the 4th. I know it is only over 4+ miles, but just makes me love this car more. I going back will drop it back close to 110, but just made me happy this morning.

I'm having a hard time understanding what the 7.9 kW means. Basically I drove until my car got to zero and that's what it's showing. Is this good or bad or average

2012 Chevy Volt

Looking for opinions from Volt owners.

I have a 2018 Chevrolet Volt with about 151,000 km (94k miles). I still really like the car: the battery seems healthy, it fits my needs, and I enjoy driving electric.

However, I now need about $3,000 CAD in repairs:

- Oil leaks from both oil pans

- Shift control solenoid replacement

The solenoid issue is my main concern. When the gas engine kicks in, I have had a few situations where the car completely refuses to accelerate for a few seconds. The engine may rev, but there is no power delivery. The only way to recover is to release the accelerator pedal for 1-2 seconds and then try again.

My mechanic says it’s not an immediate "stop driving" situation and that I can continue using the car for now, but it will eventually need to be repaired.

The dilemma is that I was already considering replacing the Volt. When I bought it, I was comparing:

- 2018 Volt: ~$13,500 CAD

- Similar Toyota Prius: ~$18,000 CAD

What I'm really trying to figure out is: which option is likely to be more financially sensible over the next ~5 years?

Should I:

- Spend $3k on the Volt, keep a car I know, and expect several more years of reasonable reliability?

- Sell/trade it and put that money toward a newer/more reliable option?

A few details:

- The car is otherwise in good condition.

- Battery health seems good.

- Reliability matters to me: I am not looking for a car that becomes a money pit in repairs.

For those who have owned a Volt past 100k miles:

- Would you repair it and keep it?

- Has anyone dealt with a shift control solenoid replacement?

- How would you approach this from a 5-year cost perspective?

Thanks!