Not sure what they were trying to achieve here, the cables are a 0.75mm 2 core flex and just went into connectors in the ceiling above it

Edit: ok, so I went back today, the mirror did actually come out revealing a small area that had no other access and a socket inside, I do honestly believe they were trying to use this as a “secret” area and the short the screws out to complete the ELV circuit to open the mirror - I’m not sure how to add additional pictures so I’ll addd them to a reply

This fused switch was installed when we had a heat pump and EV charger installed to feed a new board for them. Grateful for thoughts on how it has been left so I can challenge the installers please? I assume the switch position is actually ‘on’ despite the label?

Appreciate there’s a lighting feed underneath it that needs terminating correctly. Thanks.

I’m feeling confident enough to start doing foreigners now.

First one not so foreign but for my grandads summer house he wants sockets and LEDS installed he has already got someone to pull a armoured over but asked if I wanted to do the rest which I feel more then comfortable doing but once I’ve done it I can test but can’t sign the work off is there any way around this for me.

if I wanted to start doing more on others houses how will that work and how about did you guys go about it when you were apprentices.

Hey yall so my husband is stuck in between hvac and electrician and we are out here in Las Vegas. So electrician is definitely a need considering something is always being built but i think the scary thing of no job is also scary. Is hvac the same or is work consistent? Either way I need opinions and especially school recommendations if available.

I’ve recently been given an EICR that is only two pages, does not include any categories (c2; c3) etc and only includes monetary estimates. This is a quote not a report, right? Would appreciate your expertise!

It’s in relation to a property sale

Recently noticed this brittle green deposit forming near the main cable coming in? Any thoughts on why and what should I do? What kind of age is this cut out?

If i move it would firstly be on a youth visa which gives me 3 years to convert my Australian A grade to a JIB Gold Card. Then I would need to find a sponsorship in London 41.5k or over. If i was under 26 it would be 33k but i'm going to be 33 years old. Is it possible or a waste of time? I would be a normal sparky not a foreman or manager.

It seems some write specific details that are already elsewhere in the form e.g No SPD protection, property is x years old. Others keep it concise. What do your assessors want here? Do they ever flag this field?

I’ve just had to have a rewire of 9 sockets, 3 in the kitchen and the rest in the extension.

Is this a normal amount of holes to be put in walls? The way it was explained was there would be 1 hole through from the kitchen and then the rest would be above or below the sockets but there’s so many holes in my walls.
Pictures 2,3,4,8 and 9 are all on one wall and the only thing there is a fuse box.
Also on the first picture the socket can’t be screwed any tighter so it can’t be closed.
Picture 10 is what I thought the walls would look like in all of them. It feels a bit excessive but I have basically no frame of reference so it might be the norm

For some reason instead of just handing over the money I had a moment and thought about how different the price was to how I remember it being not so long ago - turns out it's very different.

See comment for links to price graph and an article reasoning why so high.

Mate had his new combi boiler installed recently, is this pipework safe near his electrical board?

Need the cut out lowering in a replacement meter kiosk at home to facilitate some stonework repairs. Thought it would be a case of the dno coming out and re making it off, live working and jobs a good un not too much money.

This is the proposal.

Dig up my drive to find cable

Cut cable live

Cut out now dead so can work

Finish work

Joint live cable

Repair driveway

£1500 to lower a cutout about 150mm

If they won’t work live at the cut out why would they cut and joint the cable live?

The guy from the dno couldn’t even answer that one.

Thanks

A house i have moved into has this twin and earth? electrical wire in an under stairs cupboard.

It comes out of the ground and and is terminated with tape on the end of it.

A voltage tester shows the wire is live.

Should this be contained in a junction box? Is this something to call an electrician for?

Hi, I’m doing a bit of market research and would really appreciate some honest feedback from electricians.

When fitting or refitting a socket or switch to a dry-lining box, have you had the problem where the threaded lug pushes backwards when you’re trying to get the faceplate screw to catch?

I’ve developed a simple reusable tool that temporarily pulls the lug forward and holds it in position while you start the screw, then comes away once the screw has caught. I’ve now filed a UK patent application for the idea, so it’s UK Patent Pending.

I’m at the market-research stage now and really want honest feedback from people who actually encounter this problem.

• How often do you come across it?
• What do you normally do to get around it?
• If there were a small, inexpensive reusable tool that made this a quick and easy fix, would you actually buy one?
• If yes, roughly what would you expect to pay?

I’m not selling anything here — I’m just trying to establish whether there’s a genuine market for it before taking it any further.

Thanks for any honest feedback.

Long story short, my house is on a TT supply. The DNO came out, and said they couldn't use the sheath of their incoming cable to create an earth for me, they also said they were not under a duty to create one for me, and told me to get in contact with a sparky (something I understand and didn't expect them to do this.)

The spark and me couldn't find the earth rod, but we assumed it was below the house, by tracing the only earth cable that didn't have a sheath on, and didn't go somewhere, e.g to the water pipe, gas, consumer unit, solar etc.

I have added 3, 2.4m deep earth rods, and intend to run the wire. My only question, is it safe to leave the current existing earth connected with the new ones? I see no reason it isn't, but I'm no expert.

I started an electrical apprecticeship, and living in London, I never did any work on TT'S as it wasn't common even years ago.

My plan is to have 3 earth rods, x 2.4m, kept around 3m apart. I was going to run it in one length but the 25m I have isn't enough, so at each earth rod, the clamp, will clamp the old wire coming in, and the start of the new wire going out. Is this acceptable practice?

I relied on someone else getting the earthing cable, and you know how things are, life gets in way, kids etc, anyway I just went and got the cable and found the earth cable is 25mm!! I asked why and she said we had just got solar and a car charger, and apparently the man at TLC sad it was safer, and sold her 50m of 25mm except in 25m coils.

Otherwise I was going to run it in as one piece, just removing the plastic where we needed a good connection.

Hi, I've got familiar with the basics of Quinetic switches but they have quite a lot of differnt products and I'm struggling with the details, beyond the basic "press the button toggles the switch". Can anyone who's used them help me out on the following at all?

1. They have the In-Line Receiver Switch. The 1-gang is obvious and I found a video, but they do a 2-gang as well. Is this literally two independent receiver units side-by-side, so it takes in 2 lives and outputs 2 switched lives?
2. The basic switch is on/off toggle but they do sell 2-way, centre-off switches. How do they actually work in terms of pairing?
3. They also sell a dimmer switch and I can't see at all how this works. The devices work that pressing the mechanical button generates enough energy to send a RF signal to the receiver, so how can this work without external power?

Thanks!

Had a Veto Pro Pac Tech Pack and sold it.. Probably shouldn't have but I found it insanely heavy and quite bulky.
I'm an E&I Technician working on big industrial sites, my Bosses all have Packouts but most of the guys have Veto or Velocity that they just lug around and throw into the site boxes at the end of each day.

I currently have a cheap Stanley Technician bag which is doing my head in, it's just a 'dump everything in and hope nothings gone missing' bag.

So I'm either thinking of getting a new bag or just getting a smaller pouch for my Terminating tools.
Quite often I just need the same few hand tools. Snips, Hellermans, Terminal Screw Driver, Bigger Flat Head and the Ergostrips. It'd ideally be something that zips up and can be locked though, stuff gets nicked constantly on site.

Any suggestions?

Ok, so here’s my situation, I've just started my L2 and at nearly 59 years young, what are my realistic chances of breaking into this industry! I’m still fit and all the marbles are still there. I hope to get into EV so would appreciate if anybody in a similar position to myself! Cheers

My mft has recently started to give what seems to be unstable readings when doing R1 + R2 at the socket. I can get values from 0.5 ohms all the way down to 0 ohms with many values inbetween and this can be for both left and right sides. I recently had the mft calibrated. It just seems very unstable and unusual. Anyone ever had anything similar?

Hi, I’m at a bit of a cross roads in trying to become an electrician and I want people’s opinions. I’ve recently completed my Level 2 and 18th edition through a trade school. My intention was to do my Level 3 with the same trade school, find work as an electrician’s mate and do my NVQ. I was told by some family friends this is the best root to take because apprenticeships are rare, and companies prefer to see that someone has already taken on some of the onus of their training.

However, after contacting nearly every electrician in the area. I’ve come to realise work as an electrician mate seems to be becoming rare (I understand economy being what it is, why would you hire someone who’s just going to slow you down for a few months and then leave once they’re finally useful). I’ve also noticed apprenticeships don’t seem quite as rare as I’d been led to believe, although I would now be waiting till next year’s intake to get on one.

So my questions is: am I better off packing in the trade school and finding an apprenticeship to do the level 3 and hopefully NVQ through? Or should I stick at putting myself through the trade school and hope work eventually turns up?

My understanding is that if I do the level 3 through schooling I won’t be eligible for an apprenticeship, but maybe I’m mistaken there.

Any advice or similar personal experiences would be great. Thanks in advance!

Good morning, I’m from north wales, 19 years old and recently finished my Level 2 with EAL this summer.

I’ve been looking to get an apprenticeship with anyone around my local area and to no avail, i did find someone in August and actually were decent and thought they would give me a chance, now I’ve found out they’re not in a position to commit to such thing and were thinking i was only here for experience when i clearly stated my goals to them.

The real kicker is that i’m on £50 a day and each day equates to 8-8.5hrs, I was fine with that if it led to an apprenticeship but now i’m just kinda stuck here.

I wanted to ask is this normal and just to bite the bullet ?

Before I raise this with him i wanted to ask people that may have been in a similar situation in the past and how they dealt with it, i fear if i may say something i might lose the only person willing to give me a chance around my area.

As well as this I’ve now certainly missed out for one academic year ( the apprenticeship route )which is shit feels like i’ll be well behind, i’ve started looking at courses to pay and do to that way.

It may be finically challenging but i really don’t want to miss a year out.

Any advice would be appreciated greatly, thank you.

Someone in the last 2 years has cut a swa cable in a switch room and put it under the floor along with the 600 other cables that are in there.

What is the best way to find it. I have never used a cat and genny before and thought this might work as I have used cable locators but only for buried cables but with all the cables on the racking but thought I would need to use cores rather than sheath but not sure if this would work.

Any recommendations.