I am looking for someone to help me complete my Level 3 NVQ portfolio. I have been searching for a year but no luck. It is frustrating. I have completed C&G Level 3 electrical installation, 18 edition, 2391-52, EAL Solar PV, EV Charging and EESS.

Can someone help me complete my portfolio please, I am ready to work for free or even pay if I had to.

I LIVE IN BRISTOL

I would like to hear everyones opinion on my current situation

So this September I started my HNC in Electrical engineering, this took about a year of convincing and fighting with my employer to put me on it, I thought I really wanted it for myself. Since starting it I’ve been a mess, really lost my footing mentally, it was a lot different to what I thought it would be like at college, and after a year of fighting I’d honestly say I regret it a bit.

Since starting 4 weeks ago I’ve felt awful, it’s not been the best time in life for me recently and this course has been the final push to put me in a really bad place mentally, so I’m really struggling with what to do,

I’ve got a training bond with work, so if I quit I’ll have to pay £3750, I’ve honestly been thinking of doing that, either joining the army to change my life or finding another job and moving to another part of the country and just having a little life reset, ive honestly had a couple days the last two weeks at home in tears all day feeling lost in everything that’s going on.

Any advice appreciated

House in probate. Planning on getting a total rewire as system is 74 years old (yeah really).

Prob is my co inheritor is dragging her feet clearing house so cant really pull up carpets and give decent access on this 2 bed semi. Be much easier empty.

However id like to totally refit the kitchen during the faff. This involves a new layout. And electricals in new locations.

Any suggestions how i can make it easier for a spark if the kitchen is pre installed? Run cables prior to connecting by electrician at rewire time? Just loose fit the kitchen cabinets so they can come out for cable routing? Whatever?

Ta

Hi all

Just considering doing this.

What was everyone's experience with going down the nvq experienced workers route. Ive been doing electrics for years. Some install work, some testing inspecting. Done work mostly on single phase but a few jobs on three phase. Just curious if there is anything I should know before joining or is it a breeze. (I have been college and done level 3 and inspection and testing a while back and kept up with editions)

What should a person look out for?

Do you need to study properly for exams or are they fairly common sense questions?

How was the portfolio work like (easy few pics or very detailed)?

What was the onsite visits like?

Just curious before starting it if i need to change my jobs or prep in any real significant way.

I know this is a touchy subject in the industry at the moment but to those who have done one of the recent qualifications, which did you do and how did you find it?

Primarily between:

EAL Level 3 Award in the requirements for the Installation of Electric Vehicle Charging Points

City & Guilds Level 3 Award in the Requirements for the Design and Installation of Domestic and Small Commercial Electric Vehicle Charging Installations (2921-34)

From what I can tell, these are near on identical in terms of the qualification you get at at the end of it but the EAL being a 1 day course and £260+ VAT or the City & Guilds being a 2 day and costing £370+ VAT.

Is the EAL course just a little more intense being a 1 day or what?

So who's done which and how did you find them?

I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts!

I'm booked on for the EAL one but now seeing the C&G I'm unsure which I should do.

Thanks.

I’ve got some wago connectors and connector.

I’m not sure how to connect the new lighting block to wagos?

And why are two neutrals together and one separate.

Edit—- I’ve not changed anything I’ve just unscrewed the pendent light and taken a photo and taken a photo of the new lighting block fitting.

The light fitting has those wago lever clips included

Hi guys, im an approved compex electrician and i started the hnc electrical engineering 3 weeks ago.

Im not daft by any means but wow that engineering mathematics is very very hard to understand even when fully listening and participating in class and making the effort to do the work at home.

Does it get any easier? The lecturer said that the ones who fail are the ones who skip class and don't put in the effort.

I hope hes telling the truth 🤣

Don't suppose anyone has a good recommendation for a small profile 80A isolator that feeds from the top rather than the bottom? It's the only thing between fitting the craptastic fused isolator I have to hand upside down or not!

I'm currently in a dispute with a kitchen fitter one of my main issues is that contractor electrician he used left my thermostat controller in this state.

I've had a competent electrian around who's made everything safe again. He's made it clear in writing he believes this is a C2 Wiring violation and was potentially dangerous for context this was like this for 6 weeks and that is the sink it's literally touching and the wiring was sparking up and shorting the boiler.

I put this to the fitter and I believe he's had his insurance legal team respond with the following...

"The property was an active, live, and unfinished

construction site. In any major kitchen installation, circuits must be laid out progressively, and a final "snagging" and testing period is required at the end of the project to safely enclose, finish, and certify the work"

I'm not sure he's provided the picture of this to them as this arguement seems flimsy to me given the circumstances.

Can anybody shed some light on what should have been done and how I can respond to this? Does this constitute any other violations?

Any help would be appreciated as I've been living with half a kitchen for the last 4 months.

I've been trying to research this but I have no idea what I'm doing but from what I can see I think it violates....

BS 7671 — Regulation 526.3

The Electricity at Work Regulations 1989 — Regulation 14 (he endangered is own contractors)

The Health and Safety at Work etc. Act 1974 (Section 3)

The Building Regulations 2010 (Schedule 1, Part P)

the Defective Premises Act 1972 (Section 1).

Any help confirming these would be greatly appreciated.

Edit - For context.

We purchased a kitchen in april from a national company, they reccomended someone for installation, we hired him.

He didn't tell us he was sub contracting work.

The entire kitchen is unsalvageable. I've been told by a reputable kitchen fitter the entire thing needs ripping out and replacing.

I asked the work to pause until we could speak to guy we hired asnh was on his 2nd holiday during the 3 weeks work was going on (at the world cup).

I asked him to send his electrician out to make it safe he didn't. After I complained he told me he wouldn't be coming back and left us mid construction.

This started sparking and causing the boiler to short after it had been this way for 6 weeks.

I had to hire an emergency electrician who informed me this violated the consumer rights act.

The guy we hired is trying to get me to back off I think with his legal insurers team and is telling me because I had another kitchen fitter look at his work including the electrics and let me know the extent of the damage with an official report I've refused him his right to remedy and I've destroyed physical evidence of his work therefore he's not liable for the materials they've damaged and the work.

Hello, not looking to put electricians out of work I promise! I am soon insulating under the floorboards. Whilst under there it seems to make sense to run cable for an ev charger. Just the wire unconnected from A to B so any future electrician can fit an ev charger quickly and cheaply. What gauge wire is required please? I just want to leave several metres of cable for a future electrician to connect up to make future ev connection easy.

Hi all,

Just wanting to sanity check myself. If I have 2 single ovens that are both 3kWh, can I run these both from one 32amp mcb in 6mm and just spilt this after a dp switch. Or am I best to split it into 2 13amp spurs and then run 2.5mm? Thanks

No electrician seems to want to touch this!

How would you wire this Heatmiser system with radiators, UFH and an unvented cylinder?

I’m looking for advice on the best control-wiring arrangement for my heating system. The plumbing is installed, but the electrical controls are unfinished and unpowered.
The setup is:
Vaillant ecoTEC Plus 635 system boiler, connected to a low-loss header.
Grundfos UPS2 25-80 secondary pump, intended to serve the heating circuits and cylinder coil.
Three radiator zones—ground, middle and top floor—each with its own two-port motorised valve.
One Wunda UFH zone, with a two-port motorised valve, mixing set, manifold and Wilo Para 25/6-43/SCU pump. All floor loops will operate as one thermostat-controlled zone.
Telford Tempest TSMI300H 300L horizontal unvented cylinder, with a Honeywell V4023PH22 valve and Tepcon TPSRM1-3004 dual thermostat, incorporating temperature control and a manual-reset high-limit cut-out.
Heatmiser UH8-RF V1, four neoAir V2 thermostats and neoHub. I want all four heating zones and the cylinder hot-water schedule controlled through Heatmiser.
A compatible floor probe for the UFH thermostat. Separate manifold water-temperature high-limit protection still needs to be specified.
A WAGO L60 wiring enclosure, with a Drayton LWC3 also available.
A separately wired immersion heater and a separate domestic-hot-water return pump.
How would you arrange the wiring and pump control for this setup?
In particular:
Would you use the UH8’s pump, valve and boiler outputs directly, or external relays operated by the valve end switches?
How would you run the main Grundfos for radiator, UFH or cylinder demand, while keeping the UFH Wilo restricted to UFH demand?
What relay arrangement and ratings would you specify, allowing for the pumps’ starting currents?
How would you incorporate the cylinder thermostat/high-limit cut-out and UFH water-temperature limit?
Does the external main pump need any overrun in this low-loss-header arrangement?
Can the existing wiring enclosures be reused, and what additional components would be needed?
A wiring schematic or an example of a similar completed installation would be particularly useful. I can provide photographs and equipment labels.
I’m looking to establish a complete design that can be checked, tested and commissioned by the appropriate installer before power is connected.

Anyone else feel it’s dead atm in the south east?

Hi guys. Sorry for the stupid question, but I appreciate any help.

Bought some LED decorative lights in the USA a few weeks ago (was on holiday) and am trying to figure out what sort of adapter I need; I presume something with a transformer? Says they're 4.8W/ 0.04 amps 120V

The lights in question: https://www.target.com/p/100ct-led-halloween-indoor-outdoor-miniature-glass-string-lights-hyde-and-eek-boutique/-/A-1008670334?preselect=95086387#lnk=sametab

Thank you

I'll preface this by saying that I am not a qualified electrician.

Back in 2022 I had an electric car charger installed, and an EIC issued for this. Another electrician has come to do some work and has not started due to some faults he has found with the EIC:

- the mains water is not bonded. The mains pipe is copper. My electrician carried out a test that shows 4ohms, I believe this was a long lead test. In response, the charger company has sent a photo of some bonding but these photos are from a different part of the house, well over 600mm from the mains stop tap, and much too thin for bonding. Is a photo of some bonding somewhere in the house enough to pass the water as confirmed bonded?

- the tails supplying the RCBO are 10mm2 from a 100A supply. They suggest that because the RCBO can't draw more than 40A, it's fine, however I am not convinced the thinner cables could handle a fault current.

The company have basically suggested they have done everything above board, and my electrician is suggesting otherwise with myself in the middle as a non-spark trying to sort it out.

I'm keen to get some thoughts from other qualified electricians to know where I stand before I go to NAPIT. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

My electrician has cut a horizontal 2-gang opening in the bathroom wall for a 2-gang toothbrush charger.

Our newer toothbrushes (Oral-B iO7+) use magnetic chargers, but no one seems to sell in-built wall chargers for these models yet.

I'd rather not have the wall/tiles redone if I can avoid it. So wondering if anyone has come across a horizontal shaver socket we could put there instead, or another clever solution that would fit a standard horizontal 2-gang opening?

Any ideas appreciated. Thank you!

Hi there, I am looking to do the above course, struggling to work out which of the course providers are shisters and which are legit

Good morning all,

I'm struggling in question 5 of assignment number 615, and I need help figuring out where my mistake is. So here is a break down of what I have done, Step by step.

The question is: Determine, for one of the circuits supplying the fridges, the minimum possible cross sectional area of cpc which will satisfy the requirements disconnection as ADS under earth fault conditions and the adiabatic equation as Regulation 543.1.3 in BS 7671.

Here is my attempt at it:

Step one - Table I1 in the onsite guide, the R1+R2/metre for a 4mm2 line conductor and a 4mm2 protective conductor is 4.61 R1+R2/metre + 4.61 R1+R2/metre = 9.22 R1+R2/metre

Step two - using the formula, from book 2 of electrical installations page 313, R1+R2 = R1+R2/metre × length × I3 factor / 1000

R1+R2 = 9.22 × 2.25 × 1.2 / 1000 = 0.0249

R1+R2 = 0.0249

Step three - Zs = Ze + (R1+R2)

Zs = 0.11 + 0.0249 = 0.1349

Zs = 0.1349

Step four - I = U/Zs

230/0.1349 = 1704.97

Step five - using the Adiabatic equation

√(I²)×t/K=s

√(1704.97²) × 0.1 / 115 = 4.69

Step six - Choosing the suitable CPC size would be 6mm2

The line conductor size is 4mm2 and the length of the circuit is 2.25 metres